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post #1 of 74 (permalink) Old 05-04-2008, 16:50 Thread Starter
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Project VVC stripdown

Well, now that I am a man of leisure I have no excuse not to start playing with the project engine.

I am starting this thread so that I can ask questions when stuck, show progress and generally post some pictures. Progress will still be slow.

Please feel free to add to this with any ideas that you may have, no matter how daft, and I will give them due consideration.

This will be running along my other project thread, but that is more to do with supercharger related topics.

TF Supercharger Project Thread

I picked the engine/gearbox/subframe up from Birmingham on the 1st of Feb 08, but apart from stealing bits off it for my existing engine, it has just sat there.





So I decided to start stripping it down at midday on Thurs. I didn't get the engine on the engine stand until about 8pm.

I started by removing the engine mounts (The rear sump one was already undone).



I then removed the hubs which have brand new discs and pads (nice), and released the driveshafts from the gearbox (Some more useful spares).

Thanks to Dr Dave for the help. To release the driveshafts I pushed a tyre lever up between the gearbox and shaft and carefully levered it until it released. Care should be taken not to damage the shaft seals, but to be honest I wasn't that bothered as I will be replacing them anyway.

Once the driveshafts were removed I could carefully lift the engine and gearbox out of the subframe.

Next job was to remove some of the pipework, which had been cut anyway. Never mind, I will be replacing with new anyway.



One thing I did discover was just how much oil the gearbox contains. I didn't even consider that once the driveshafts were removed there was nothing stopping the floodgates from opening once the engine was tilted. You can see a small pool of oil on the floor, but if you look carefully, you can see a larger stain that I had already cleaned up. Doh. To be honest, it would have been a faff to drain with the engine/gearbox at floor level, so I have a bit of an excuse.

Next was to remove the starter motor, which was a bolt on 12V supply, an inline crimp solenoid supply and 2 bolts that also act as 2 of the main gearbox to engine bolts.



And then seperating the gearbox from the engine



The clutch then came off and the engine was fitted to the engine stand.



Next will come removal of the ancilliarys, plastics, waterpump and head.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Engine strip 01.jpg (77.3 KB, 1163 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 03.jpg (93.5 KB, 1144 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 04.jpg (87.0 KB, 1140 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 05.jpg (94.6 KB, 1127 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 06.jpg (93.3 KB, 1119 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 07.jpg (62.9 KB, 1110 views)
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post #2 of 74 (permalink) Old 05-04-2008, 16:53 Thread Starter
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One idea which I have had is down to the cam belt covers being craked. Not a great problem, but I wondered about replacing them with carbon fibre. I was thinking of finding a suitable company that would knock them up for me.



My main question, for anyone who has experience with carbon fibre, is will it take the heat of the engine bay? A cheper option may be to just cover the existing covers with a layer or two of carbon fibre. Good idea, or not?
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post #3 of 74 (permalink) Old 05-04-2008, 16:55
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Should do CJ......as most F1 cars are virtually 100% CF
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post #4 of 74 (permalink) Old 05-04-2008, 16:58 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Puds121 View Post
Should do CJ......as most F1 cars are virtually 100% CF
That's what I thought, but wasn't sure whether normal carbon fibre would do the trick or whether a special grade would be needed.
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post #5 of 74 (permalink) Old 05-04-2008, 17:13
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I think the resistance does depend upon the final resin used, most basic should range from 120 degrees upwards

Love threads like these, as they give you a chance to see how your car works and what goes where etc.

Are you gois to paint the engine block whilst its apart?
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post #6 of 74 (permalink) Old 05-04-2008, 17:31 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Stampy View Post
I think the resistance does depend upon the final resin used, most basic should range from 120 degrees upwards

Love threads like these, as they give you a chance to see how your car works and what goes where etc.

Are you gois to paint the engine block whilst its apart?
This engine is getting the full bling. I was wondering whether to go for the full red colour scheme



A bit like this, but with carbon fibre covers. The red would be on the engine block and between the aluminium polished veins on the cam cover. Red is traditional racing but is also a bit common.

I would idealy like to go for a powder blue, as blue is a bit of a theme for my car, a bit like the silicone hose in the picture.
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post #7 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 10:26 Thread Starter
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Well, the strip goes on. I have got a bit behind with the photos, so we will just have to catch up.

Next was draining the oil from the sump.



And empty and remove the oil filter



Next I loosened the engine mounting bolts ready for removal. Recognise this bit MyRomeo?



Afterr this I removed the timing belt covers, held on by an assortment of 8mm and 10mm bolts.







And with the covers removed you can see the timing belt, water pump and tensioner. The lower cover will not come off until the crankshaft pulley is removed.



Now that the oil has been drained, I can remove the lower bolts securing the dipstick tube.



And after removing the upper bracket, we can remove the dipstick tube.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Engine strip 10.jpg (83.4 KB, 1055 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 11.jpg (57.7 KB, 1047 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 12.jpg (71.2 KB, 1102 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 13.jpg (82.7 KB, 1039 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 14.jpg (78.6 KB, 1043 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 15.jpg (69.3 KB, 1039 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 16.jpg (51.0 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 17.jpg (98.0 KB, 1047 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 18.jpg (79.4 KB, 1042 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 19.jpg (91.2 KB, 1117 views)
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post #8 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 10:42 Thread Starter
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The loom and coolant pipes ect have to be removed. They are held in place by clips around the engine.





The plugs for the various sensors are normally a push together fit. Do not pull on the cable or use excessive force. They should come apart easily if the clip has been properly released. They are held in place by a piece of spring wire, which you can either push in to release, or, as shown here, lever out with a suitable screwdriver.



And seperate the plug from the socket



Next to come off was the inlet manifold (Lower). The upper and exhaust manifolt were removed earlier to play with.





Next I removed the plug leads and coils. I may keep external coil packs as there might be upgraded items available for better sparks, not likely on the internal units. It's an option anyway.





The rest of the connectors and loom were removed, along with any remainting pipes etc.



And any auxilliary brackets, such as the alternator.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Engine strip 20.jpg (90.8 KB, 1036 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 21.jpg (84.6 KB, 1090 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 22.jpg (89.1 KB, 1024 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 23.jpg (82.0 KB, 1024 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 24.jpg (78.5 KB, 1065 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 25.jpg (97.8 KB, 1063 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 26.jpg (84.5 KB, 1242 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 27.jpg (77.2 KB, 1024 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 28.jpg (97.3 KB, 1025 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 29.jpg (63.4 KB, 1029 views)
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post #9 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 10:42
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Massive and interesting CJJ

Watch out for Pete before he spots the WD40 bottle
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post #10 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 10:55 Thread Starter
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I then had to make up a flywheel locking tool, so that the crank would not turn. This is important as you usually need to use a lot of force to remove the crankshaft pully nut, and with th timing belt removed the crank could turn causing a piston to contact the valves.



It won't win any welding competitions, but it does the job.



Allowing me to remove the crankshaft pulley. Surprisingly it came off fairly easily. No hammer or impact tools needed.



Which, in turn, allows me to remove the belt and lower timing cover.



Now, as shown in another post, comes the cleaning. Just a general clean to get rid of the heavy covering of old oil. All I used was white spirit and a brush.





And you can also see that I have removed the water pump/thermostat and tensioner.



Well, that's it upto date. Slow progress, but it is getting there.

Next jobs will probably be removing the oil pump and removing the head.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Engine strip 30.jpg (83.7 KB, 1009 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 31.jpg (89.5 KB, 1014 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 32.jpg (88.5 KB, 1010 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 33.jpg (97.6 KB, 1014 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 34.jpg (87.4 KB, 1012 views)
File Type: jpg Engine strip 36.jpg (81.4 KB, 1013 views)
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post #11 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 10:57 Thread Starter
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Massive and interesting CJJ

Watch out for Pete before he spots the WD40 bottle
WD-40 is great stuff, so many uses.
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post #12 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 11:02
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looking good CJJ...

my head will be getting removed tomorrow morning... bet its back together before yours

looks great what your doing up there mate, im taking note for my next project!
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post #13 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 11:21
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I'll have to keep this saved some where as a reference for the future! Looking good.
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post #14 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 11:22 Thread Starter
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I'll have to keep this saved some where as a reference for the future! Looking good.
Planning a strip down?
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post #15 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 11:57
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Massive and interesting CJJ

Watch out for Pete before he spots the WD40 bottle
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WD-40 is great stuff, so many uses.
Top aftershave

great pics on the stripdown CJJ
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post #16 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 12:46
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That engine looks almost brandnew mate, wow !!!
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post #17 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 12:54
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Ive just noticed thats a turbo'ed VVC
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post #18 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 12:55
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i bet your so pleased the cops didnt want to steal it after your find the other day too!
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post #19 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 12:59
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Quality thread CJJ. I wince at some pics at just how easy it is when engine isd on the floor, rtather than breaking fingers and wrists to reach nuts and bolts.

Oh and good advice about locking the flywheel BEFORE removing the crank pulley, in case you damage valves

I now put the locking tool in then keep rotating the engine until it locks in place (its not as easy as welding it on when its still int eh car ), then once firmly locked, pulley can be cracked, then reaplced hand tight to rotate engine back to timing position (with locking tool removed of course), then reapply locking tool for safety once belt is removed etc.

Looking forward ot next installment
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post #20 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-05-2008, 15:30 Thread Starter
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i bet your so pleased the cops didnt want to steal it after your find the other day too!
Damn right.

I would have had to bubble you for having a stolen engine mount too. I would have tried not to, but they would have broken me eventually
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