Refurbishing Alloys - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 13:52 Thread Starter
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Refurbishing Alloys

I found this excellent guide to refurbishing alloys and fancy doing the same myself...


11 spoke Alloy Wheel refurb (pic heavy)


Mine are a bit scruffy and here's a picture of the worst one.....







Should I be sanding right back to the metal or will a bit of cleaning, sanding and filler do the trick?


Any recommendations of what I'll need would be appreciated and presumably I can get it all from Halfords?


And because the car is yellow I quite fancy painting them black instead of silver so any paint recommendations would be great too!


And can I get new badges easily enough?


Thanks.
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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 22:36
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Cant help with the wheels (having not refurbished one).

The wheel center caps can be refurbished with new badges quite easy.

Badges are readily available on ebay, but get a set from one of the more reputable MG suppliers on there.

I got these wheel cap badges Which look good on black wheels, with the caps also painted black.

Gently heat up the wheel center (after removing from the wheel) with a hot air gun, or just sit it on a hot radiator for a short time. This will soften the glue.

With a very small screw-driver, or a knife blade you can pries away the old badge.

Clean up the center cap and remove all old glue with meths or similar.

Paint them (I painted mine black) and stick new badges on when paint dry.

About 1 hour work (plus paint drying time) and makes a big improvement on looks.

Peter
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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 05:28
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or will a bit of cleaning, sanding and filler do the trick?
Yes it will.

As with all paint finishes though, the end result depends greatly on the preparation time and effort.

Good luck

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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 11:58 Thread Starter
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Brilliant, thanks folks. That'll keep me out of mischief for a bit!
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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 14:31 Thread Starter
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Silly question time.........


I'll be doing them in black and I'd prefer them to be gloss rather than matt. Is it the paint that gives me that finish or the lacquer?
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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 15:47
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Either or both!

Generally lacquer adds gloss, but often you'll be using a direct gloss black paint anyway (so you might not actually need lacquer depending on the paint you use).
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 17:50 Thread Starter
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Thanks. The bloke at Halfords sold me Stealth Black (which seems to be matt) but they also do a Gloss Black so I'll take them back and switch them.
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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 18:04
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I wouldnt use halfords myself unless I had to.
My local car paint supplier will mix you up a 500ml rattle can in whatever colour you want and he gives you the option depending on paint (as in if its a solid colour) if you want it regular/flat or Gloss.

If i get say solar red like my old car was I can specify gloss and skip the top coat/clear coat.
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 13:13
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Thanks. The bloke at Halfords sold me Stealth Black (which seems to be matt) but they also do a Gloss Black so I'll take them back and switch them.
personally, I'd stick with matte black and laquer. gloss and laquer may be a bit in your face? I dunno... would love to see some pics when you've done them. I'd like to turn my alloys black, so I'm interested in seeing the outcome of your little project. good luck!
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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 16:47 Thread Starter
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I got the first one sanded today so it went from this......







To this.....









The sanding wasn't hard work but it still took about 3 hours. I think it's ready for filler now but I'll check it again tomorrow in the daylight before going any further.
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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 17:12 Thread Starter
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Two of the clips on the centre cap have crumbled away. Can I get a new set of blank ones (I have new badges on order already) and use them instead?
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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 18:05
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What do you need filler for? I would rub them down till you dont need filler.Far less issues that way. You need etch primer on bare alloy.




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post #13 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 19:24 Thread Starter
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Cant help with the wheels (having not refurbished one).

The wheel center caps can be refurbished with new badges quite easy.

Badges are readily available on ebay, but get a set from one of the more reputable MG suppliers on there.

I got these wheel cap badges Which look good on black wheels, with the caps also painted black.

Gently heat up the wheel center (after removing from the wheel) with a hot air gun, or just sit it on a hot radiator for a short time. This will soften the glue.

With a very small screw-driver, or a knife blade you can pries away the old badge.

Clean up the center cap and remove all old glue with meths or similar.

Paint them (I painted mine black) and stick new badges on when paint dry.

About 1 hour work (plus paint drying time) and makes a big improvement on looks.

Peter


The centre cap has caused me the most trouble so far. The badge wasn't budging regardless of what I tried so I've pretty much had to sand it off! I'm sure it'll look fine when it's finished as the new badges are bigger than the old ones and cover almost all of the surface area, and as I'll be painting it black I don't expect a problem.


Today was another hour or so of sanding and then applying the primer. I applied the primer outside as it wasn't windy and brought it inside right away.


Primer.....







The new badges.....


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post #14 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 20:57
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Mikey

You must have different wheel centers for those alloys

The badges sit in an octagonal recession in the cap, just a tiny bit bigger than the badge.

here is a picture of my wheel



and on the car




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post #15 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 21:19 Thread Starter
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Yeah, they're a wee bit different but the badge will fit fine.


I quite like the idea of painting the lettering on the tyre too but I'll see what the finished job looks like first.
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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-01-2017, 11:45 Thread Starter
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First coat of black applied and it's fair to say it's shiny......












Unfortunately my inexperience is shining through and there are a couple of paint runs. So I'll let it dry and sand them out tomorrow and add another coat from there. Lesson learnt!!


I'm also going to give the inside a single coat as you can still see the yellow primer in places.
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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-01-2017, 11:49
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Looks good, well done that man.

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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-01-2017, 14:18 Thread Starter
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The paint runs aren't very noticeable and you really have to be looking for them to see them. Will sanding them successfully remove them without causing other problems or would I be best just to leave them as they are?
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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-01-2017, 15:31
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The paint runs aren't very noticeable and you really have to be looking for them to see them. Will sanding them successfully remove them without causing other problems or would I be best just to leave them as they are?
Depends what paint you have used.If the paint is too soft when you try to flat them off theres a chance of lifting the paint.Once the paint has gone off they will flat without problem.I wouldnt rush to deal with them if they arnt too noticable.They can be dealt with at any time in the future if they bug you.The longer they are left the harder the paint and will take slightly more work to buff back but longer is safer.
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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 08-01-2017, 19:28
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i am going to point out.. that the external wheel condition, is probably less important than whats going on - on the things you cant see.. and that excludes all the finishing and remaking of the wheel external parts.. and focuses on what keeps the tyre inflated and what might change that, regardless of how many hours and finishes one applies to the bits one can see to make the wheel really not what it might be... it just looks good..

the inside of the ally wheel rim, and how the tyre seals to that.. the valve and its condition , is far more important than the shiny shiny paint that gets stone chips..

not least because structural defects in the wheel, caused by shock loading, like potholes for example. deform and degrade the structure of the alloy.. in the parts one cant see..

a deflation failure might kill you, and others ... and will be caused by a fault in the ally, or the valve or the tyre.. nothing at all to do with how shiny the wheel looks..

**** looking wheels could well be safer to use than shiny shiny ones... its down to the application of knowledge... so learn some. i think.
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