Repairing the central locking mechanism how to - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 74 (permalink) Old 26-09-2007, 20:28 Thread Starter
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Repairing the central locking mechanism how to

Some of you may remember at the begining of the year I changed the passenger side door locking mechanism as it was doing the grindy, whirry thing.

I did an autopsy on it and found that a small plastic shaft had snapped off from the main housing, allowing a pawl to float free and not engage properly.



I had threatened at the time to repair it, but never really got around to it.

Well, I did an autopsy on the drivers side when I removed it yesterday and found exactly the same fault. While I was in the mood I decided to fix this one (will fix the passenger one at a later date).

The plan was to fit a new shaft to replace the snapped one. Obviously gluing the old one back in place would not last 2 minutes. I toyed with the idea of drilling though the case and fitting a rivet of the correct size, but this had its problems (could damage the plastic, would expand when rivetted in place and be too wide for the pawl). So I decided to narrow the plain shank of a screw and cut to size (8mm in length - 5mm of old shaft + 3mm depth of case). To give extra support and strength I welded a square of metal to one end.

I then drilled out the location of where the shaft used to be



I then pushed the new shaft though the casing and Araldited it to the outside of the case.



With the new shaft in place



I could refit the pawl



Reassemble the mechanism and mechanically test the levers.



All seems OK, but I will have to wait until I need a lock change again to try it out fully.

This may not be the same as all failures experienced by F/TF owners, but I have had 2 now and both have been the same. As you can see, a little hobbying and you can save yourself around 40 on ebay.
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post #2 of 74 (permalink) Old 26-09-2007, 20:38
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Excellent work.
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post #3 of 74 (permalink) Old 26-09-2007, 20:48
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Good work CJJ...

Why not offer a repair on a 'Exchange' basis??.. could make you a few 's given the amount of 'Project Dive' solenoid failures...
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post #4 of 74 (permalink) Old 26-09-2007, 20:53
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Excellent! I have to check Megs drivers side again - makes a funny noise when double locked once more! I had it apart a year ago, greased it and stuff and it was ok, maybe something else has happened now!
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post #5 of 74 (permalink) Old 26-09-2007, 20:54 Thread Starter
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Too busy working, playing or fiddling with my toys Mark.
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post #6 of 74 (permalink) Old 26-09-2007, 20:58 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by adamelphick View Post
Excellent! I have to check Megs drivers side again - makes a funny noise when double locked once more! I had it apart a year ago, greased it and stuff and it was ok, maybe something else has happened now!
If you take it apart, check that pawl. It looks OK but it is only when you "wiggle" it that you realise that it is loose and the shaft has come adrift. As I said, this may not be the same as everybodies problem, I think some people have reported stripped cogs. It is worth a check though.
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post #7 of 74 (permalink) Old 26-09-2007, 20:59
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will do. last time the grease had turned to hard lumps so i thought that was it, cleaned and refilled it and seemed ok, but maybe as i filled it quite full the grease just held the pawl in place maybe for a while? I'll check it tomorrow or friday i think...
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post #8 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-09-2007, 07:43
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This is a common fault on the deadlocking door locks, probably the only fault on them. Like you say, catch it early and deal with it and you won't get stuck.
Over on the 25/ZR forum, lots of locks have failed. I've rrepaired quite a few but not quite the same way as you did. What worries me about yours is you used araldite glue, I can't see that lasting very long, not on a hot summers day anyway.
I used a round long headed bolt, M3 if I'm not mistaken, I had to drill the plastic lever slightly so the head bolt would fit, drilled the plastic casing and held the bolt in place with a locking nut on the outside of the case, loctited as well just in case.
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post #9 of 74 (permalink) Old 27-09-2007, 18:38 Thread Starter
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You could be right, but the glue doesn't do anything structural, it just stops the pin sliding out. Time will tell. I did consider a bolt or screw but was worried about cracking the casing and having the pawl sitting on a threaded portion. But then again, yours is probably tested. Mine isn't.
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post #10 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 13:41
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Has this fix cured the problem CJJ? Or has it re-occured since?

Cheers
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post #11 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 15:35 Thread Starter
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Has this fix cured the problem CJJ? Or has it re-occured since?

Cheers
I haven't fitted that unit to be honest. It is sitting as a spare in the garage waiting for the failure of the one I fitted. No reason why it shouldn't work though.
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post #12 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 16:52
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Ah, ok!

Quick question- it only makes the clunking on deadlock for me- should I replace it (or fix it) or just stop using deadlock? As the normal lock works fine, maybe theres no point in going to the hassle of changing the locks? Or will the normal lock fail after time too?

Sorry for the questions!
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post #13 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 16:56
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Ah, ok!

Quick question- it only makes the clunking on deadlock for me- should I replace it (or fix it) or just stop using deadlock? As the normal lock works fine, maybe theres no point in going to the hassle of changing the locks? Or will the normal lock fail after time too?

Sorry for the questions!
Do NOT use dead locking until you have replaced the unit
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post #14 of 74 (permalink) Old 02-04-2008, 17:04
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Or will the normal lock fail after time too?
Yes it will! As petevick says dont use deadlocking until its been replaced or the door will be jammed shut! Available on ebay cheap.
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post #15 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-04-2008, 02:18
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Oky doky guys! I will get replacements (that hopefully haven't broken as well!!!!) and use CJJs fix on my current locks in case the new ones break in the future!

Craigie- I just had a search on eBay and could only find one for a rear door!


Sorry about this lol, but two more questions:

1. It only seems to be the drivers side at fault, but should I still replace both doors? (3dr car)

2. Do the boot locks break too?
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post #16 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-04-2008, 05:29
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......Craigie- I just had a search on eBay and could only find one for a rear door! ........
either you've done a mod to beat all mods, or you don't have an F/TF..........ahh, your lost aren't you, I think you should be in the ZR section buddy
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post #17 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-04-2008, 14:28
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either you've done a mod to beat all mods, or you don't have an F/TF..........ahh, your lost aren't you, I think you should be in the ZR section buddy
Nooo, I know where I am lol! But I was lead to believe CJJs fix will also sort out the MG ZR locks!.... Hence me being here

I just checked eBay as Craigie suggested and the only ZR locks I could find were for the 5dr rear door! (does the TF use the same motor as the ZR actually?)

Sorry, I should have made it more clear I have a ZR!
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post #18 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-04-2008, 16:18
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I just checked eBay as Craigie suggested and the only ZR locks I could find were for the 5dr rear door! (does the TF use the same motor as the ZR actually?)
Their plenty of TF ones on ebay!

And no the ZR locks are not the same as the TF. look similar but are different.
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post #19 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-04-2008, 17:57
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....And no the ZR locks are not the same as the TF. look similar but are different.
pity really, otherwise we could have raided those tin toppers and nicked their locks

Last edited by Petevick; 03-04-2008 at 18:03.
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post #20 of 74 (permalink) Old 03-04-2008, 17:59
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pity really, otherwise we could have raided those tin toppers and nicked there locks
Yes was a good
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