Rough idle...? - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 28-12-2016, 20:15 Thread Starter
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Hi Scott, that's definitely something I can check out! I wish they had just changed it there and then now instead of their honest approach haha, I took him for a spin today and when he fires he fires damn well and it sounds wonderful but it's like he gets spooked when he has to idle or crawl in traffic and he turns into a 2 cylinder tractor... very peculiar indeed considering all the stuff I've changed!
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 28-12-2016, 22:11
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Hello and Merry Christmas everyone! After trawling the internet I'd like to get some further advice from you guys here before I go replacing every part in the car!

So, after having my flexi pipe changed due to it making the car sound like a proper chav car I've had a real rough idle.... Particularly on a cold start. However, it has happened the odd time when the car is warm and stationary at the lights. I'll try my best to explain... Of a morning, when the car first starts it feels fine and the revs are where they should be. However after about 10 seconds the revs start to drop and the car rumbles and vibrates like it's getting ready to stall. It almost feels as if the cold start up cycle gets cut short? However this wouldn't explain why it would happen when warm. When I try and drive the car when it is exhibiting these symptoms it feels like it's running on 2 cylinders and when I take it out of gear and pop it into neutral it will stall. It drives absolutely fine 90% of the time although... I feel it is the idling that screws it up. A few days ago I replaced the plugs, leads, air filter and coil packs and while it seems to run better, the fundamental problem remains. There was no evidence of oil being on the old plugs so I don't think it is the inlet manifold gasket. I'm thinking to replace the IAVC valve or at least give it a clean? Maybe fuel filter? I must say... since this has started after the flexi pipe change, could it be the o2 sensor? The garage very honestly informed me my old o2 sensor was intact and it didn't require a change so they just used the old one. I went back to them explaining my symptoms but they were adamant the sensor wouldn't cause this problem but I disagree as this problem has only arisen since the change. Any thoughts guys?? Is an o2 sensor something I can change comfortable at home you reckon??

Many thanks!!

Mem
I would still suspect the exhaust sensors...I work in industrial maintenance and the two rules of thumb are, if it stops working, what was the last thing it did, points to where the fault lies, as in its waiting for something to finish before it begins the next task, or an autonomous fault, not applicable in this scenario, or whats the last thing that was tinkered with.
As the exhaust was modified and the sensors in the downpipe taken out and refitted, then this would be the first place I would look.
A possible human error, not intent, of course, but still a possibility and must be eliminated first. As in my first post, check the sensor and replace if suspect and still plug in an OBD diagnostic. It has to be done!
I replaced my downpipe 4 days ago as my car had intermittent tickover issues and would occasionally loose power. I suspect the sensors in the exhaust were reporting false data back to the brain due to the split in my flexi hose.


Good luck and hope you sort it


Sundance
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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 29-12-2016, 09:22 Thread Starter
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Is it possible to see the sensor without jacking the car up and just through the inspection panel?
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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 29-12-2016, 16:32
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Is it possible to see the sensor without jacking the car up and just through the inspection panel?
You need to be under the car the sensor is in the downpipe low down close to the flexi section. There is also a second sensor just after the CAT. The wiring goes up in front of the engine.


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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 29-12-2016, 18:42 Thread Starter
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OK thanks, I'll leave that for the garage next week me thinks as I have no real means of supporting him!
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 19:42 Thread Starter
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Hi guys, just thought I'd update you all, bought myself an OBD2 reader and oh my god... this will be a new obsession. I bought one of the ones where you connect to your phone and download an app and the amount of stuff you can see using these things is incredible! Coolant tempature, mpg, horsepower, 0-60!!!! It's wonderful!! Brought up fault codes relating to the lambda sensor so.... there's my answer! Garage is gonna get it tomorrow thanks again everyone
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 19:52
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Good for you, looks like you have learned a lot and are well on the way to solving the problem!

Good job!
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017, 21:19
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Hi guys, just thought I'd update you all, bought myself an OBD2 reader and oh my god... this will be a new obsession. I bought one of the ones where you connect to your phone and download an app and the amount of stuff you can see using these things is incredible! Coolant tempature, mpg, horsepower, 0-60!!!! It's wonderful!! Brought up fault codes relating to the lambda sensor so.... there's my answer! Garage is gonna get it tomorrow thanks again everyone
SO has this been cured ????
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-01-2017, 07:20
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You need to be under the car the sensor is in the downpipe low down close to the flexi section. There is also a second sensor just after the CAT. The wiring goes up in front of the engine.


Sundance
On my MGF when new (1998) the position you state for the sensor was different - it was between the engine and the firewall and I remember very difficult to get to. However with the 4-2-1 downpipe that I subsequently fitted, the lambda is after the flexipipe and just before the catalytic converter. Easily seen looking down from the rear boot and easy to change from the underside of the car. The TF may be different.
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-01-2017, 09:40 Thread Starter
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Hi everyone, the problem has indeed been cured. The garage kindly didn't charge me labour, however something funny did happen. I wasn't aware you had to remove the inspection panel to access the o2 sensor, so I got a call from the garage saying they couldn't do it because it was a 'rip out job'. I was like, 'Really? As far as I'm aware it's a clip and a bolt!' So I pop over there (it's literally across the road from my work) and he says he doesn't want to remove the panel. So I removed it for him There I was, in my suit, in a garage taking off my panel! I got some seriously weird looks! I even said he didn't have to put it back on! But then it dawned on me... This garage are the ones who replaced my downpipe and 'kindly' said I didn't need an o2 sensor because 'it was fine'. It clearly wasn't fine, they just didn't want to/couldn't be arsed to change it! Moral of the story... Where ever possible, work on your own MG, because no one else gives a *****. I will be buying some axle stands I have not been very mechanically minded in the past however in the past year I have been tackling services by my self and it is so liberating, all thanks to this site. There's a bundle of information and people always a forum away to give you a hand and educate you! So for that, I thank everyone here.
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post #31 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-01-2017, 10:05
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Hi everyone, the problem has indeed been cured. The garage kindly didn't charge me labour, however something funny did happen. I wasn't aware you had to remove the inspection panel to access the o2 sensor, so I got a call from the garage saying they couldn't do it because it was a 'rip out job'. I was like, 'Really? As far as I'm aware it's a clip and a bolt!' So I pop over there (it's literally across the road from my work) and he says he doesn't want to remove the panel. So I removed it for him There I was, in my suit, in a garage taking off my panel! I got some seriously weird looks! I even said he didn't have to put it back on! But then it dawned on me... This garage are the ones who replaced my downpipe and 'kindly' said I didn't need an o2 sensor because 'it was fine'. It clearly wasn't fine, they just didn't want to/couldn't be arsed to change it! Moral of the story... Where ever possible, work on your own MG, because no one else gives a *****. I will be buying some axle stands I have not been very mechanically minded in the past however in the past year I have been tackling services by my self and it is so liberating, all thanks to this site. There's a bundle of information and people always a forum away to give you a hand and educate you! So for that, I thank everyone here.


So are you saying you have now changed the sensor and all is OK ? As you say never trust some one with doing work on your Pride and Joy unless you know them VERY well.
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post #32 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-01-2017, 10:14 Thread Starter
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Yes that is correct, all fixed!
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