Sticking Handbrake Sorted - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 30-06-2008, 14:22 Thread Starter
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Sticking Handbrake Sorted

After fixing the exhaust yesterday I went to move the car and found that the rear offside brake was sticking.

This has hppened before but usually releases with a clunk when the car ismoved. Not this time though.

Took the car for a test drive to check the exhaust and came home with smoke and burning brake smell trailing behind. Also noticed that the handbrake wasn't returning fully down and was bouncing a bit, causing the handbrake light to flash when going over bumps.

So, I could buy a new calliper or attempt to fix the problem. I decided to strip the brake and see if I could see what the problem was.

For those who want to strip the brake caliper down, you may want to have a look at this how to, which describes the process MG TF Rear Disc & Pad Change

After stripping down to the calliper I concentrated on the handbrake mechanism. This is a common problem on the TF.



I did try disconnecting the cable, but gave up afer about an hour of trying to get the pin out. I managed to remove the retaining clip from behind, but could not remove the acual pin. I assume it screws out, but I just couldn't get it to budge so I settled for spraying it and freeing up the linkage.

The mechanism itself seemed a bit sticky, so I chocked the front wheels, released the handbrake and stripped the calliper down, removing the pads etc. I then sprayed the mech with WD40 and worked it backwards and forwards. If you do this be warned that everytime you do it the piston moves out a bit more due to the adjusting mechanism, so you have to stop every now and again to wind the piston back into place (see the link above on how to do this).



The mechanism still wasn't returning fully so I watched it while operating. It seemed that the plate that has the end stop on was rubbing against the stop/spring attachment post (the mushroom shaped object) which was causing it to stick.



I held the mechanism fully on and filed the plate a little and cleaned any corrosion and brake dust off it and the post. I then sprayed lithium grease on the mechanism to lubricate it. Moved it around a bit to free it up and all seemed well in the world



I then refitted the spring and tried the mechanism. It now returns fully of it's own accord. Sorted. Another spray of Lithium grease over the spring and workings and it was ready to put the car back together.



Replaced the wheel and stamped on the brakes and operated the handbrake a few times to allow the adjuster to take up the slack.

Spun the wheel by hand and it moved freely

Took the car for another test drive and it was superb. I felt as though I had gained 20bhp.

Sorted.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Seized Handbrake 02.jpg (74.1 KB, 1111 views)
File Type: jpg Seized Handbrake 03.jpg (71.7 KB, 1016 views)
File Type: jpg Seized Handbrake 04.jpg (63.2 KB, 1011 views)
File Type: jpg Seized Handbrake 05.jpg (62.0 KB, 1007 views)
File Type: jpg Seized Handbrake 06.jpg (83.9 KB, 1019 views)
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 30-06-2008, 14:30
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You're busy boy actually aren't you CJJ ? Glad you got it sorted, I had to change the whole caliper
Well done mate, fantastic pics, work and write-up
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 30-06-2008, 15:01 Thread Starter
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You're busy boy actually aren't you CJJ ? Glad you got it sorted, I had to change the whole caliper
Well done mate, fantastic pics, work and write-up
I was thinking of changing the calipers, but, you know me, I had to tinker first. Saved a bit of money.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 30-06-2008, 15:07
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thats brillinat CJJJJJJ, top marks and rep if I can
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 30-06-2008, 15:31
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 30-06-2008, 15:47 Thread Starter
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 30-06-2008, 16:14
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A word of warning, I then Luffield did something like this last year and it worked for about 50 miles and then it seized in a big way taking the disc and pads with it. Worth keeping an eye on.

The N/S caliper has gone so after some debate I am going to put a new one on although that should leave me with the old one to play with.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 30-06-2008, 16:43
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......although that should leave me with the old one to play with.
don't you have normal toys....lego etc
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 30-06-2008, 16:46 Thread Starter
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A word of warning, I then Luffield did something like this last year and it worked for about 50 miles and then it seized in a big way taking the disc and pads with it. Worth keeping an eye on.

The N/S caliper has gone so after some debate I am going to put a new one on although that should leave me with the old one to play with.
I will be. I am aware that sometimes things only fix for a short time and then fail, but it is worth trying.

How much you paying for a new caliper?
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 30-06-2008, 17:14
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Just over 100 in VAT from Xpart, but it doesn't sound like they are that readily available.
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 08:05
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I will be. I am aware that sometimes things only fix for a short time and then fail, but it is worth trying.

How much you paying for a new caliper?

I got both of my new calipers from this ebay shop http://stores.ebay.co.uk/PARTS-CENTRE-UK - I think they were 75 each incl postage

As far as I'm aware they were brand new - they are listed as new and certainly didn't look like re-furbs
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 09:15
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....As far as I'm aware they were brand new - they are listed as new and certainly didn't look like re-furbs
it says in the add
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that has been fully re-manufactured
but they look professionally done.
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 10:24
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I must have been blinded by the shinyness of them - I didn't realise they were indeed re-furbs

And I would probably never have known if you hadn't said...
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 10:56
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I must have been blinded by the shinyness of them - I didn't realise they were indeed re-furbs

And I would probably never have known if you hadn't said...
is it too late to delete my post then
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 11:04
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is it too late to delete my post then
No point in deleting, i'm quite used to being a bit of a pillock and at least now I won't be telling everyone I bought brand spanking new ones for 65
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 14:53
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Very good right up as always CJJ!
Is it just me or am I missing axle stands....
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 14:57 Thread Starter
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Very good right up as always CJJ!
Is it just me or am I missing axle stands....
I don't know? Where did you last have them?

You are correct. And I don't condone it, but my new jack is quite safe and I stuck the wheel under a load bearing point so that if it did fail it would only drop an inch before resting on the wheel. I would always recommend axle stands though.
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 15:47
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Mmmm, sorry to be a spoilsport , but I've got my hands on FastJan's old units to play with and it's not that simple.

The "seizing" that people experience is not normally in the hydraulic bit, but in the mechanical linkage. The pistons on Jan's old units were near enough perfect, however the linkage that uses a wedge to push the piston out was very, very stiff. I managed to get the stuff out of the interior of the piston with circlip pliers, but the mechanism in the casting is held in by another circlip which is deeply recessed, and I can't get at it - yet
The bit on the outside with the return spring is easily clened off, but the shaft comes out from inside the casting, when presumeably all the rest of the bits fall out as well!!

Hmmm, a new circlip plier thingie is called for
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 17:38 Thread Starter
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Ah, but mine is fixed (for the moment). Might have just be a different problem. Just have to wait and see how long it lasts.
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-07-2008, 21:23
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I did try disconnecting the cable, but gave up afer about an hour of trying to get the pin out. I managed to remove the retaining clip from behind, but could not remove the acual pin. I assume it screws out, but I just couldn't get it to budge
I levered mine out with a flat screwdriver after removing the clip - there's no thread on the pin

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