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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 23:35 Thread Starter
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TF 160 Overheating

Hi people,
Having an issue with my TF 160 overheating. Just had the PRT thermostat replaced (grey coloured thermostat from eliseparts) and then the coolant filled up with a vacuum filler. I was driving around today and it's overheating. The coolant temp gauge goes all the way to the top and then quickly goes to the middle, and the heater goes hot and then cold every few minutes or so. I checked the coolant and it had dropped since I checked it the night before. Could this be caused by the head gasket going? I checked the oil dipstick and there is yellow-ish gunk on it.
Thanks
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 23:50
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more likely caused by not bleeding the system correctly, especially if you had no issue prior to changing the PRT...system needs to be bled from three points, under the bonnet on the heater matrix, the radiator and the bleed point on the metal water pipes which are in the engine bay.

Yellow gunk on dipstick can be caused by condensation especially if the car isn't used that often, what you need to check is if the oil on the dipstick is black as it is likely to be more of a brown colour if the head gasket was going/gone
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 00:31
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If the car is used regularly and the gunk is a recent addition it may be the gasket has gone. White cofee is what I ended up with after mine went. Just after fresh anti-freeze was added. Gotta say putting it under vaccum would also have put oppositre pressure on the gasket. I'd certainly keep an eye on it, People say it could be condensation but it's limited to cars that really are only weekend or even once a month drivers.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 08:53
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Gotta say putting it under vaccum would also have put oppositre pressure on the gasket.
Not sure what you mean?

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 10:15 Thread Starter
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more likely caused by not bleeding the system correctly, especially if you had no issue prior to changing the PRT...system needs to be bled from three points, under the bonnet on the heater matrix, the radiator and the bleed point on the metal water pipes which are in the engine bay.

Yellow gunk on dipstick can be caused by condensation especially if the car isn't used that often, what you need to check is if the oil on the dipstick is black as it is likely to be more of a brown colour if the head gasket was going/gone
The oil is kind of a brown colour actually

Also, the car just had a full oil change and new filter the other week.






Last edited by Roverlike; 11-03-2017 at 10:53.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 10:54
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I fixed you pictures above for better viewing.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 11:03 Thread Starter
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I fixed you pictures above for better viewing.
Diolch
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 11:41
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Your oil looks perfectly normal to me.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 12:31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Droidekafan View Post
Hi people,
Having an issue with my TF 160 overheating. Just had the PRT thermostat replaced (grey coloured thermostat from eliseparts) and then the coolant filled up with a vacuum filler. I was driving around today and it's overheating. The coolant temp gauge goes all the way to the top and then quickly goes to the middle, and the heater goes hot and then cold every few minutes or so. I checked the coolant and it had dropped since I checked it the night before. Could this be caused by the head gasket going? I checked the oil dipstick and there is yellow-ish gunk on it.
Thanks
Check that the pipes to the PRT have been connected correctly (ie the pipes to the correct connection points). It may even be a faulty PRT thermostat (although you say it is new).
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 12:34
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Classic air block behaviour.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 13:12
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i wouldn't rely on vacuum filling this coolant system personally, it's far too fragile and pernickety to risk sucking all the air out and possibly weakening the joints and seals. plus, it seems you then feel it unnecessary to bleed which is also a risky proposition. I'd bleed bleed bleed, top up, and maybe get a new expansion cap for good measure.

your oil looks perfectly fine to me.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 13:51
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must agree, sounds like it hasn't been bled properly, if the heater's going hot & cold I'd put money on it having an air lock in the matrix.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 16:05 Thread Starter
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It is losing coolant though. I went out earlier today and had a mate who works at a garage do one of those head gasket testing kits (where is has blue fluid that turns yellow/green if the gasket is gone) and the fluid turned green. Perhaps there could be an air lock as well as the gasket being gone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Julian Foulger View Post
Check that the pipes to the PRT have been connected correctly (ie the pipes to the correct connection points). It may even be a faulty PRT thermostat (although you say it is new).
I had my friend who works at the garage test the PRT by putting it in hot water and he said it opened and closed fine.

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Originally Posted by roobs View Post
i wouldn't rely on vacuum filling this coolant system personally, it's far too fragile and pernickety to risk sucking all the air out and possibly weakening the joints and seals. plus, it seems you then feel it unnecessary to bleed which is also a risky proposition. I'd bleed bleed bleed, top up, and maybe get a new expansion cap for good measure.

your oil looks perfectly fine to me.
Expansion cap is new, had it replaced not long ago.

Last edited by Droidekafan; 11-03-2017 at 16:32.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 17:26
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The intermittent overheating sounds most like an air lock to me - not uncommon after a coolant replacement if the system hasn't been successfully bled 100%. It coming and going sounds as though the trapped air is shifting around a bit - this means that some will probably be working its way round and venting to the expansion tank. This will lead to the coolant level in the expansion tank dropping as the coolant fills up the space previously occupied by the air in the system.

It is quite common for the coolant to drop a little in the few weeks after the coolant system has been drained and refilled, because there always seem to be tiny bubbles of trapped air which gradually work their way out of the system. If the coolant dropping doesn't stabilise after a few hundred miles, it's time to start looking for signs of where it is going
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 17:29
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Coolant loss can be caused by many things:

Split hoses, failing water pump, leaking radiator, failed Inlet Manifold Gasket etc

Get the engine cover off and start looking for any evidence.

Water pumps often leak when the car is cold and/or stationary, so get some paper underneath to check for leaks.

It may well be a failed Head Gasket in the end, but there are a dozen other things that cause coolant loss that are just as likely.
Good luck.

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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 17:35
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Quote:
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It is losing coolant though. I went out earlier today and had a mate who works at a garage do one of those head gasket testing kits (where is has blue fluid that turns yellow/green if the gasket is gone) and the fluid turned green. Perhaps there could be an air lock as well as the gasket being gone?
If you've got HGF then everything else is pretty much irrelevant at this stage.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 18:31 Thread Starter
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Could someone enlighten me on the proper way to bleed the system? I was having trouble bleeding the system before, which is why I went the route of a vacuum filler.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 11:30
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 14:28 Thread Starter
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Cheers mate
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 13-03-2017, 00:59
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No problem. Good luck.
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