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My next project has arrived. Another "They all do that" ...

13K views 98 replies 37 participants last post by  MGJohn 
#1 ·
My next project has arrived. A 2003 Rover 1.4 Impression.





A few niggles, light scuff damage along OFFside of car. Both Doors and rear wheel arch.



Here is the reason the previous owner decided to sell up. Evidence of Oil-Coolant mixing in the sump showing on the Dip Stick :~



Further evidence of Oil reaching the coolant. I had already added some SPEEDFlush to the coolant and run the engine for a while. SPEEDFlush is good for clearing a lot of the oil which lurks in the cooling system when a Cylinder Head Gasket becomes damaged. The Coolant and Coolant Expansion Bottle were far dirtier prior to adding the SPEEDFlush and running the engine. :~



Not a bad looking car :~



The engine and the engine compartment were filthy and full of dead leaves etc. I gave it a bit of a clean using a Mist Sprayer with a dilute engine degreasant solution. Drove it round to the nearby Jet Wash to clean the whole area up, including the front Alloy Wheels which were black with Pad Filth. I dislike working on a filthy engine. The car drove very well. One thing I really liked, the steering wheel situated perfectly in the straight ahead position when driving straight ahead. Plus, the Steering Wheel locked in the straight ahead position too. These are signs I like to see in a car adding to confidence as you get to know more about it.



It was a typical "ebay Spares or repair" car and the honest description may have put some people off including myself initially. wanting something to keep me productively occupied for the next few weeks or so I decided to take a chance. so far, the signs are good that I've backed a winner here. Not counting my chickens just yet. I shall take it ... carefully ... to my friendly MoT tester and have booked it in for Monday. A couple of careful miles only should not do any harm. I've arranged that the emissions be tested first and if it fails to meet those values to stop the test and I'll take it away and renew the Cylinder Head Gasket. If it passes the emissions to continue with the full test. Although the car drove beautifully, brakes, steering, lights tyres etc all there, it is still much of an unknown quantity to me. The MoT expires today... tax until end of December.

So far so good. More follows.
 
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#39 ·
Never in a million for me. The FRONT wheels particularly on a front wheel drive car do most of the work of braking, accelerating and STEERING so that's where I want the best rubber. The rear wheels simply hold the rear of the car clear of the ground on a FWD car.

Anyway, the tyres on the rear have plenty of tread and are in good shape. The car passed with no advisories.

Whilst waiting for my retest which took all of a few seconds, my friendly MoT tester was testing a Transit for a regular customer. Both stop light bulbs and one of the rear number plate bulbs had blown. The tester replaced all three bulbs and no extra charge on the MoT for the work but he did charge for the three bulbs. The MoT charge for the Transit was the same as my Rover 25. Same amount of work involved hence no price difference.

When testing my MG Montego Turbo some years ago, the emissions were just above the legal level. He took a few minutes to adjust the Carb so the car passed without an advisory. He charges about £20 more than the 'cheaper' MoT test facilities but, those little touches like that make the extra money well spent. I sometimes use his spare lift ramp when I want to work underneath a car and his power tools ... no charge .. although I bung him a few quid anyway.

Been using him for over twenty years now. He only does MoT now and be retiring in a year or two. It will be difficult to find another as good.

Good result on the MOT. A couple of tyres required on a 9 year old car is good going compared to many people I know with younger motors.

Those tyres look like Falkens, are they not?

Did you use the 620ti to tow back and forth from the MOT station? Or just to collect the car when you bought it?
.
No pre-booked appointments and drove there and back each time. The head gasket is not a big issue ... at the moment and now wont be as the car will not be used until after the repairs are finished.

Beautiful winter sunshine so will make a start now after a warm cuppa...

The previous owner did well to suspect it so soon and stop using the car. Very few clues.
 
#44 ·
The issue of the recommendation to fit new tyres to the rear will probably only manifest itself where the older pair of tyres a fairly worn (ie. more than half worn).

In a straight skid, the worn tyres will have less grip, and if on the rear, will have the result that the front end of the car will grip and slow better, whereas the rear will not and will slide out and round - the back end effectively tries to overtake the front.

With the better tyres on the rear, the tendency will be for the more worn fronts to be more inclined to slip, and the better grip on the rear effectively 'drags' the rear of the car, thus maintaining a straight line in the skid.

That's the theory behind it anyway :) It may well be the case that a brand new cheapo tyre may have less grip than a half worn top end tyre :dunno:
 
#45 ·
Made a start by releasing three of the coolant hoses:~



They were far easier to pull away from their locations as I had been through all that first time a few days ago. Nine years firmly clamped makes the Rubber form a close fitting shape on the location which is always difficult to remove carefully trying to avoid damaging the rubber.



Then by lowering the bottom Radiator Hose released end down towards a large bowl below, the coolant ( mainly Water with a flushing agent ) was collected with minimal spillage :~



That mud coloured stuff shows the SPEEDFlush has done the business. Not a trace of lumps of Emulsified Oil-Water mix anywhere :~



Removed OFFside front Road Wheel and placed car on Axle Stand. Located the Stand on one of the reinforced rails under the car. That allowed me to use my 22mm Socket and Breaker Bar to correctly align the engine into the "SAFE" position.



Then using my DeWalt 240volt Mains Impact Wrench I released the CRANKshaft Pulley Bolt. I thought it was not going to cope with the job as the Wrench struggled for several seconds then the bolt suddenly loosened :~



Then replaced the 22mm Bolt back in its location and realigned the engine into the safe position. The Impact Wrench had moved the CRANKshaft a few degrees away from safe :~



Then Inserted the CAMshaft Locking Tool ( about £4 on ebay ) to hold the TWO CAMshafts securely to allow me to loosen each of their 17mm Bolts :~



Then removed the Locking device and both bolts and using a large Screwdriver, carefully levered the two Pulleys off their CAMshafts. WARNING... NEVER leave that locking device in place until it's needed when the new Timing Belt is fitted ... Why? Some poor devils having done all the work left it in place and then tried to start the car.... :( Result:~ Ruined engine :~



I also removed the two small and short 8mm bolts which secure the upper inner Timing Belt Cover to the Cylinder Head. One bolt below the centre of each CAMshaft. That Inner Cover can remain in place when the time comes to lift the Cylinder Head.

I planned to detach the Plastic Inlet Manifold prior to removing the cylinder head. That has the advantage of not having to disconnect all the electrical and fule connections. However, the Inlet Manifold is secure by 13mm Nuts and these have become corroded and will be difficult to remove in situ without the risk of rounding a few off which is to be avoided at all costs. So, I'll play that by ear when the time comes to lift the Cylinder Head. There was another problem from corrosion ~ there's always a few on old cars.. The two 15mm lower manifold nuts either side of the Manifold on their 17mm Bolts were loath to be removed. Slightly seized on their bolts and will need a 17mm spanner on their Bolt heads to facilitate seperating the Manifold from the Exhaust pipe. I prefer to leave the Exhaust Manifold in place as it is easier to work without disturbing the Ex-Manifold and its gasket. The beauty of the K-Series is that its components are so light, you can do this. That's the Bolt head in the centre of this picture. It simply spun round and round. Will need a spanner on both ends to undo :~



Access to those two bolts is very difficult as the AirCon Pipe is in the way. As the AirCon is not working and in need of regassing, I removed that Pipe which was held inplace by three 8mm bolts. Much better access now.



By now the Sun had dipped behind the hill and the Temperature started to drop like a stone. The tools were very cold to handle now even though I used rubber gloves. So packed up for the day and weather allowing, will get stuck in tomorrow. Apart from those annoying corrosion problems, well satisfied with the leisurely progress made today.

Finally, here's evidence that the Air Filter has been doing its job well. note all that grit and road filth. Without the Air Filter, guess where that lot of filth would go ... ;)



More follows.
 
#46 ·
Nice work John.

I tend to find when I am doing a k series head gasket that the way and order I do things changes each time I do one. I see that you have removed the camshaft pulleys now - will you not have to put them back on with their bolts to rotate the cam shafts in order to remove the cylinder head bolts? I seem to remember that happened to me last time.

Exhaust manifold bolts are always a worry as to wether they will come undone easily or not
 
#47 ·
If it becomes necessary to refit a Pulley to rotate one CAMshaft a tad to clear one of the Sensor Reluctor CAMs to access the through bolts, no problem.

Agreed about using various approaches as you learn more from the previous experiences when working on each next job. That's what experience is all about.. ;)

I will leave that top inner Timing Belt Cover in place as when the Head is removed, access to that 'pesky' 8mm Bolt which secures the Water Pump from the opposite ( engine ) side to the other 8mm bolts is so much easier. Cannot do that with the CAMshaft Pulleys in place.

The frost has now evaporated away by the light breeze but it's still cold. Even so, I may spend an hour or so on the car today before dark when I get back from a bit of shopping.
 
#48 ·
Busy with other things for most of today and did not make a start on the car until after 3 O'Clock when the light rain stopped. Tad warmer too but I put on a load of clothes as I hate being cold.

Those two partially corrosion seized lower Exhaust Manifold bolts I tackled first. They simply spun round when I tried to remove them yesterday. I had given them both a good dose of Penetrating Fluid last night and amazingly, they were both undone using finger power only... result :)

One of the Quick Release fuel line connectors ( Speedfit Fuel Line Connectors which are a very clever idea ) would not quick release.... :( I suspect heavy handedness in previous ownership. I therefore undone the Union in that fuel line where it sits on the top of the Fuel Filter. I shall be renewing that Filter anyway.

So, with all coolant hoses, fuel lines, electrical connectors removed or disconnected, I leant over the engine and with both hands at either end, gave a tug or two. The Cylinder Head lifted and I was able to lift it up and out of the engine compartment with both Inlet and Exhaust Manifolds still attached single handed. Something you could not do with many engines.

It was dark by the time I had finished and here's a few images of the work today.









Nowhere near as bad as some I've seen. I will clean up these components when time allows and check those cylinder head and cylinder block interfaces for truth with my trusty straight edge. Initial inspection ~ in the dark with a torch ~ shows a cylinder head face skim will not be necessary.

Ongoing ~ when time allows.
 
#49 ·
Much rain and shine today which meant using an electric drill could be iffy. From about 3pm the skies cleared so I got the tools ready only to have a few seconds of rain make everything wet. Even so, made some progress cleaning up and checking the Cylinder Head for truth. When cleaned up, I was pleased to observe that the Fire Ring witness marks were very light so no sign of any overheating deep indentation fire ring damage in the usual hot area around the Exhaust Valves. A Head skim to clean up the surface will not be necessary. It rarely is unless the car was driven on when the overheating signs were ignored there and damage done. Here's a few images I took which are self explanatory.

Before starting. I've seen far worse :~



Tools ready for the clean up. No engine degreasant to hand so I used some Washing Up Liquid diluted in a Mist Sprayer. Then carefully and lightly used the wire brush in the Electric Drill :~



Working quickly and carefully as it was fast getting dark and black clouds moving in this direction, I soon had the Cylinder Head face clean and ready for checking with my trusty straight edge. I used the edge in several directions across the head with a torch light which would reveal any uneven areas or signs or warping. Not a trace of either. That head is good to go.







Weather allowing, tomorrow I will clean up the Cylinder Block and fit the new Water Pump.

Here's what the Block currently looks like. That filthy liquid in the coolant passageways around each cylinder will drain away quickly once the old Water Pump is removed. Any left I will use a syringe to suck out.



These are the new MG-R OE parts I will fit as work progresses :~



Finally, here's the reason those lower manifold nuts ( and bolts ) simply spun round when I tried to undo them. That was a delaying surprise I was not prepared for... :( The Nuts were not fitted to studs as with all the earlier cars I've worked on, so this nut and bolt fixing must be a change with the later cars :~



Getting there.
 
#50 · (Edited)
The Cylinder Head is refitted.

Beautiful sunny winter's day so made steady progress working in the dry but very cold conditions this afternoon working at my usual leisurely pace.

Prior to the work cleaning up the block, I used this Syringe with short piece of rubber hose to extract the remaining old coolant :~



This 'silver' 8mm bolt is very difficult to access with the Cylinder Head in place. Easy with the head removed. It bolts into the Water Pump from the 'reverse' side and also holds the Inner Timing Belt Cover.



PAS Belt Tensioner 10mm Bolts loosened allowing it to be swung clear allowing access to the small 8mm Timing and Water Pumps bolts to be accessed.



Removing those 'hidden' bolts :~



Lower Timing Belt Cover removed revealing old Belt and Water Pump, both of which will be renewed.



New and old Water Pumps.



New MG-R Pump has cast Impellor, old has pressed steel one.



Clean up about to start :~



Water Pump location prior to clean up. Lower left shows PAS Belt tensioner swung clear.



Cleaned up Cylinder Block given the Cylinder Liner "Finger Test". All four liners passed on all four points around their top circumference. Good sign that. :)



New Water Pump fitted :~



Block given final clean up. Dirt always finds its way onto the surface no matter how careful you work.



New Water Pump in place and all bolts tightened.



With new Timing belt in place, the main engine mount can be refitted. It needs to be removed to remove the old and fit the new. The engine is supported with a Trolley Jack or Axle Stand with the mount removed. Then fit the new MLS ( Multi-Layer-Steel ) Cylinder Head gasket.



Head Saver Shim fitted on top of the Head Gasket.



Cylinder Head fitted lightly in place. I will get the Torque Wrench on those 10 Through Bolts ( Nine in place in picture ) but that will have to wait until tomorrow weather permitting.




Meantime, bad light stopped play @ 16:13 ~ Superb Sunset though in still very clear sky.

Please with today's progress ~ getting there ... ;)

Ongoing.

EDIT to Add @ 18:53

With the MLS Gasket came this helpful information sheet :~

 
#54 ·
There is virtually no oil in that head or upper block which was allowed to drain before being thoroughly washed. So no chance of that. I did tighten all ten through bolts with a Tommy Bar by hand.

Before I fire up this engine, I will drench the Camshafts in fresh oil as I always do. In my experience, oil from the oil pump will be pumped at high pressure and reach into the camshaft and other bearings within a second of operating the starter. I found this out when cranking a T-Series on the starter with the cylinder head removed. Oil was spurted high into the air within a second of my operating the starter. Oil supply under high pressure was immediate as the pump will pump oil with starter motor power alone before the first cylinder fires up. I suspect that is the case with most engines.

Otherwise those bearings relying on high pressure oil immediately from the pump on start up would suffer from delays. Possibly causing severe accelerated wear every time the engine is started cold as we are often reminded about by the oil companies.

New OE-MG-R Camshaft Cover gasket and Torque Wrench all ready.

Sun starting to shine brightly so I'll wrap up and get stuck in. I'm home alone now and all being well, without distractions, I should make good progress and may even have the engine running before it gets dark at 4pm.

I shall also fit one of my spare painted K-Series CRANKshaft Pulleys. That way it will be easy to see the Safe Timing Index marks which become almost invisible on old rusted Crank Pulleys.
 
#55 ·
Starting late, steady leisurely progress today. Started by torquing the 10 Through Bolts securing the Cylinder Head. Stage 1 = 20nm.



Stage 2 = 180 degrees with the Breaker Bar in sequence. Stage 3 is a simple repeat of Stage 2. Sorted :~



Prior to further work, I was not happy with the 'feel' of the Timing Belt Tensioner. I used the one on the left which had a far smoother feel to it when rotating :~



Then with the Inner Timing Belt Cover in place, both Camshaft Pulleys were fitted, set in the "SAFE" position along with the CRANKshaft Pulley and the new Timing Belt fitted :~





CRANKshaft pulley in safe position. Note the double dot index at the top in line with the K-Series slight forward incline :~



Removed the Spark Plugs to make manually rotating the engine easier and after about five or six complete revolutions by hand, no sign of any dreaded metal to metal contact. Never assume it is timed up right and simply operate the starter. Very 'iffy' and asking for trouble as some sad cases have discovered. The again checked the Camshaft and Crankshaft Pulleys still arrived in safe condition after those rotations :~



Spot on :~



This is the old and refurbished CRANKshaft Pulleys for comparison :~



Then fitted Painted CRANKshaft Pulley which is so much easier to read the all important "SAFE" indexes :~



Few more manual rotations and checked again the Indexes :~



I then refitted the Inlet Manifold by which time the Sun had disappered behind the hills and as the temperature started to drop rapidly, packed up for the day and went in for some warmth and refreshments.

Ongoing.

Thinks .... do not think I'll tackle one of these jobs in Mid-winter if I do one again in the future.... ;)
 
#57 ·
Got stuck in again today and only managed two pictures. First one shows a useful "Third Hand" technique ( well piece of wood ) I use to hold the Polyvee Drive belt in place when aligning it over the CRANKshaft, AirCon Compressor, Alternator and Tensioner Pulleys. With patience there are many two man jobs which can be completed single handed if you think about how to go about things.



This is the other of the two pictures I took showing the new completed Cylinder Head Reassembly.



I had used the last of my 20 Litres of OAT Antifreeze recently so quickly drove to Halfords for a 5 litre bottle of the stuff :~ £21.99p. Not in this car of course.. :)

I also swapped the Coolant expansion bottle which was still mucky inside with one I obtained from a scrap car which I had cleaned up ready for this job.

Then filled and bled the cooling system as I always do confident that all would be well. By now it was dark so worked in Torchlight rather than get the Inspection Lamp set up. Final check that all the various Fuel supply and return Lines, Hoses and electrical connectors were fitted. Then connected the Battery, got inside the car and turned the Key. Waited for the fuel system to prime up and then turned the key. Two seconds later the little K-Series burst into life making a sound like an old Ford Diesel....Clacketty-clack-clack-clack. ...:(. After about thirty seconds, by which time the oil pressure had filled up the Hydraulic Valve Lifters ( Tappets ) and the engine settled to a nice fast idle rustle noise at about 1300 rpm. Bit high though.

With the heater on fully it was blowing cold still after a few minutes and it was then that I noticed that the temperature gauge had climbed above the 'normal' needle position. So, there's still air in the system despite my best efforts. Lifted the bonnet, removed the Expansion Bottle Cap ... slowly and carefully ... and then squeezed both the top and bottom radiator hose firmly and alternatively for about a minute with the Expansion bottle cap removed and fitted. Even with my gloved hand I could now feel the heat in the top hose including the smaller heater one. Then back inside the car with the engine running, nice warm heat from the heater vents and the Idle had settled to about 900 rpm and the Temperature gauge needle had dropped to the 'normal' position, a tad below midway.

Took the car for a short run about 6pm and shortly after reaching the main road, as soon as I put my foot down the engine 'died' as you would expect if you turned the Ignition Switch off. Then picked up but would 'die' whenever i gave it some welly and then pick up when I lifted off. I strongly suspect fuel starvation. I did not renew the Fuel Filter but simply connected the Fuel Line to the Filter.

Tomorrow I will fit a new Fuel Filter and check the fuel supply. During that short run I also put £20 of 95 RON in the tank. So, I know it has plenty of fuel.

Ongoing.
 
#58 ·
I read with interest early on in the tread advise on towing and use of A-Frames, i think you will find that the information is wrong,
1. A person who passed there car driving test before 1st january 1997 can tow a trailer with a Total Train weight of 4250kg, but all trailers over 750kg must have brakes fitted and working.
2. A person who passes his test after 1st january 1997 can tow a trailes as well but the Total Train weight must not exced 3500kg, with all trailes over 750kg must have brakes working.
3. A person who passes there test after 19th January 2013 cannot tow a trailer weighing more than 750kg and if towing with a large car/van the total traing weight must not ne more than 3500kg.
4. Towing with A-Frames is illegal unless it is to remove a broken down vehicle to a place of safety. the car being towed changes its status to a trailer when attached to a A-Frame, therfor exceeds the 750kg unbraked law.

A company has just developed a electronic braking system that can be used with A-Frames which VOSA have accepted but the cost far outweighs buying a car trailer.

I live in Noth wales close to Anglesey were you bought one of your cars from, VOSA in the area are now pulling cars in using A-Frames and stopping them from proceeding further, also the police are there as well to check if your insurance allows you to tow as some insurances do not, same as using a car for business purposes is not covered unless you have it on your insurance.
 
#64 · (Edited)
That is the prime reason for my taking the time to post up these threads. I know they are appreciated.

All hail the amateur DIYers like me... get stuck in! ... :) Contrary to widespread popular belief, it's not Rocket Science.

Really enjoying this thread. It's giving the confidence to tackle mine when the time comes.

To clean up the head it looks like you used a wire brush in a Black and Decker. Doesn't the steel brush gouge the alloy of the head?
Well spotted. You are not the only one who has posed that question to me. Here is my reply over on PistonHeads to that question.

MGJohn said:
Manicminer said:
Good stuff John.

I did same job on the mr2 last month, do you ever get problems with your drill and steel wheel cleaning method?

I spent hours with razor blades on the block and had the head skimmed because of all the things I'd read about not scratching the surfaces, would be nice to know in future if I could just use your method instead.

Also, what's the purpose of the head saver shim?
I believe that sometimes the softer alloy of the Cylinder Head surface can suffer indentations from the stronger metal of the gasket's Fire Rings. There are always Fire Ring witness marks even in a healthy engine. However, if a car user does not spot the first signs of coolant loss or simply drives on anyway ~ I have known folks do that in their cars ~ the severe overheating can allow the Fire Rings to make DEEP grooves in the softer alloy of the head. I have read that some of these severe overheating indentations are as deep as 1mm! That could mean the cylinder head is scrap rather than needing a skim. In the case of less serious Fire Ring indentations, a head skim has never been necessary and fitting the saver shim protects the head from further problems.

I've done close to a dozen of these now and in each case I've used the MLS and the Saver shim. All still going strong and no problems. Not needed the head to be skimmed either.

By the way, a useful Instruction Guideline came with the MLS for those fitting one of these for the first time :~



Edit to add @ 19:11

That old Black and Dekker drill is now forty years old.... :) My good lady bought it for me soon after we were married. Still giving good service all these years later despite being abused rather than used occasionally. I have disassembled it and regreased the bearings once or twice during that time which revitalises the Drill. That Wire Brush and ones similar I've used many times CAREFULLY and LIGHTLY on those softer metal surfaces. Never had a problem. Just be careful and do not be heavy handed.
Over the past thirty odd years, I have used that drill and others with a wire brush to clean up the cylinder heads of both Motor Cycles and Cars, often cylinder heads made of softer metal alloys. Probably well over thirty cylinder heads all told. Not had a problem with any of them. Some of my Motor Cycles are still going strong, now owned by lifelong friends and worth far, far more than when I owned them. I'd love to have one or two of them back.

EDIT to add @ 22:59.

In a pro-workshop, if they took the same level of thoroughness that I do with these little projects, the time and care required would mean an Invoice for well over £1000!
 
#65 · (Edited)
As this cold weather looks set to carry on for a few more days, got stuck in a bit earlier today... at the crack of ... 10 am... :)

First thing, replace the Pollen Filter and Heater Fan Resistor Pack which was only working on the two fastest speeds. Both of these components are behind the Glove Box. There are two 10mm bolts which secure the Glove Box drop down drawer ~ one at each end on the under side :~



A metal bar needs to be removed to make better access. It is secured by an 8mm Bolt at each end. Then the Plastic Pollen Filter Cover needs to be slipped off. There's a catch clip at the bottom which needs to be released. Then the Pollen Filter can be withdrawn :~



I've seen far worse amounts of leaves and rubbish in these filters and after a quick brush up with a soft haired brush, the Pollen Filter was good to reuse :~





With the Fan on fully and the Filter removed, some more rubbish was blown out leaving the Filter housing clean and clear.



Filter refitted :~



Then removed the Fan Speed Resistor Pack. Here it is :~



Old clearly shows why only the two fastest speeds are operative :~



Old and refurbished replacement :~



Before refitting the assembly with the refurbished resistor Pack, tested all four speeds and worked well.





Replaced the Resistor Pack, metal bar and then the Glove Box Drawer. Moved on to tidy up the few remaining jobs under the bonnet.

Fitted a new MG-R Air Filter :~



After cleaning up the metal throttle body (TB). That's it fully open !! :~



Only the Coil Pack Cover remains to be fitted :~



Making really good progress now :~

Then had a :doh: moment. I had not replaced the AirCon Pipe I had removed to give better access ... :( So all my work with replacing the Air Filter assembly had to be removed.

Soon had the refitted and job at last is completed with everything in place :~



I was pleased to note that the cleaned Coolant Expansion Bottle still looked reasonably clean. Following oil-coolant mixing from a damaged Cylinder Head Gasket, there will always be the odd bit of oil left in the cooling system which makes its way to the bottle, Good to see that the level is still spot on the MAX Index showing my second attempt at bleeding the system had been successful :~



Took the car for a five mile run and delighted with the way it ran. Heater superbly warm. Ideal this weather. No sign of the hesitation which I suspected was fuel supply related during that first trial run after the gasket repair.

Sorted... ;)
 
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