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rear light cluster seals

5K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  T-Cut 
#1 ·
Well first dry day of the year so I decided to investigate a boot leak on my 1.8 connie saloon.
Never seen anything like what I found.
The rear carpet was absolutly sodden and is now removed and drip drying in my outhouse.
The spare wheel was floating in its own private swimming pool.
I had to syphon it out with a length of hose pipe it was that bad. the water had reached rear seat level and I managed to dry it out thank god before further damage.
I dried the car out as mercyfully it was a sunny day and there was a light wind to.
I took one of the rear light clusters off as that appears to be where the water was coming in. The gasket was complete but had split at the lower corner somehow. Now I suppose I could effect a repair with some window sealent I have but I was wondering if anyone knows where I can just buy a apir of replacement seals from?

thanks
 
#4 ·
Jezzer1's seals from the Club Forum are excellent quality and a fraction of the Xpart price.

All the factory fitted seals appear to have a cut in them for some obscure reason. Jezzer1's don't so if that is where the leak is, these will fix it.

I recently installed the 'MG7 style' rear lamps and they both leaked from the off. The seals supplied with them are pathetic and only half the thickness of proper seals. Even the new ones wouldn't stop rain getting in until I stuck neoprene tape around the thin edges of the lamps. That seems to have done the trick.

TC
 
#5 · (Edited)
Thanks guys I have just sent an e mail to Jezzer.

Mine appear then to have split at the join on the gasket.

I thought it looked unusual for a gasket but now you mention the way they were made it does make sense. I suppose I could glue the joint together temporarly but no point if jesser can supply better ones.

What a huge lot of water for two splits but we do live on the coast and its been horrendous weather.

I will let you all know how I get on
 
#6 ·
When I did mine, I took off the old gaskets, cleaned the edges up, especially those where the manufactured cut is, dried them out on my rayburn, and then glued the splits together, thoroughly cleaned the mating faces of the light clusters and the bodywork, I then glued the gaskets to the body work and then used fish tank sealant, worked a treat!
 
#7 · (Edited)
You know you mention the manufactured cut?
I take it you mean the bottom corner. I took the light off and saw the split and thought I probably need to glue that up etc

Am I right? If I take both lights off clean them all up, clean the body work on the car at the mating face and carefully swap the gaskets over I take it I need to glue the 'cut together' then apply the sealent to the bodywork and also between the gasket and the light?
I am going to order a new set of gaskets from Jezzer but not sure how long thats gonna take as I only have an e-mail address no phone contact so I am dependant on an e-mail reply..so I thought I may do a temporary repair.
 
#8 ·
You know you mention the manufactured cut?
I take it you mean the bottom corner. I took the light off and saw the split and thought,,,ight I have to glue that up etc

Am I right? If I take both lights off clean them all up, clean the body work on the car at the mating face and carefully swap the gaskets over I take it I need to glue the 'cut together' then apply the sealent to the bodywork and also between the gasket and the light?
I am going to order a new set of gaskets from Jezzer but not sure how long thats gonna take as I only have an e-mail address no phone contact so I am dependant on an e-mail reply..so I thought I may do a temporary repair.
That's basicaly what I did, just make sure every surface is as clean as it can be, I cleaned the surfaces with solvent to get the crud off, applied the sealant to the gasket, and the lights, bodywork, any gap I could see!
 
#9 ·
I had a very similar amount of water sloshing around in my car last winter.
I removed both rear light units, cleaned up the original gaskets, and added a bead of clear silicone sealant both between the light unit and the gasket and between the gasket and the body.
Since then (touch wood) I've had no more problems - IMO silicone sealant's the way to go!
 
#11 ·
Whilst im in the boot...so to speak.
I have read a lot about the air vents in the boot.

Where and how do I locate and check these.
I have heard the rear bumber needs to come off? Is that true.

I am gonna change the light gaskets when they arrive but just wanted to know.

cheers
 
#12 ·
I have just had confirmation that my new light seals are on their way from Jezza on the other forum. £12.50 for the two and they are much better seals.

I will fit when received and hopefully enjoy a dry boot...

Two things.....
whats the best way to dry out my sodden carpet and clean it and how do I clean up the inside of the light cluster as the reversing lights are green with goldfish type mold....
I thought of a catfish...but.....
No seriously any ideas?
 
#13 ·
With new neoprene gaskets and clean surfaces, you don't need silicone to get a watertight seal. The old seals become permanently crushed along a thin line around the plastic lamp covers. That's where water will get in next time because the gasket's compression has been lost.

I don't think the OEM split in the bottom lets water in. They're all like that but they don't all leak. The split wasn't waterproof glued, it's the compression that seals everything. Once used, the gaskets should be really be replaced each time the lamp housing is taken off.

TC
 
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