Hopefully "someone in the know!", will be along shortly! Failing that, if you are "new" to a 75 , I think you will find the clutches tend to be "heavy" anyway!
Not much help im sorry!
The 75 clutch is naturally heavier in operation than others. If it is not slipping nor the pedal seeming loose or floppy then there shouldn't be any need to worry. A week's subscription to a gym with concentrated focus on your left leg muscles should see you OK
Had my clutch, master and slave cylinders changed last week, The clutch is now super light, it feels like driving a petrol again in fact its taking some getting used to.
Almost worth the £600 mg2: for that alone.
I did need to bleed the clutch again when I got it home though (biting point was near the floor)
That interesting, did they put an OEM or pattern clutch in?
Both mine are unpleasantly heavy
I can only assume it is down to the springs on the pressure plate
It is the only thing I really don't like about the cars as I really don't think there was ever a need for them to be like that
Mine has had a heavy clutch since I bought it. I had the slave cylinder bled yesterday as I couldn't get it in gear. The clutch is now much, much lighter than it ever has been
You would think the opposite a clutch needing bleeding would be all spongy
unless there is greater leverage on the master cylinder when the pedal is at full height
Still doesn't really add up though does it! unless the fluid itself is getting contaminated but then to increase the foot pressure needed the fluid would have to be thickening up or something similar can it do that?
Keith, I am 99% they used a LUK clutch, which from when I was on the spanners is a very trusted make.
They did bleed the clutch as described on the fitting instructions that came with the Rover master cylinder , I believe it was connect everything up, pump the clutch twice then open nipple and pump twice only and to there credit it was very light and didn't feel bad at all. But having drove round for a couple of days the biting point seemed very close to the floor than it was before. But as they hadn't drove it before they weren't to know.
Anyway, bled the clutch as described elesewhere (used a syringe from an ink refill kit, Perfect for the job) Topped up pot, pumped twice slowly by hand with the nipple open, shut nipple and the biting point was perfect again.
Pedal is like a petrol car again ie, very very light slightly unnerving in fact till I got used to it, made me realise how poorly the old slave must have been!!!!
Unless the sliding action of the slave is binding or the seals are trying to turn over, my clutch was actually working fine (no slip or drag) but pedal stayed on floor one day and it lasted 2 days before complete failure, It had always been heavy for the 7-8 months I had had the car but presumed that was normal, It was something I could have lived with.
But like you say hydraulically speaking it doesn't make sense.
I suppose you didn't keep the old cylinders to pull them apart and see if the had seized partly as that would obviously lead to a stiffer thingy..........
I was going to ask, but the guy who did the job was arguing with someone who thought a clutch job on a transit should be about £40 (because the everywhere)
I've only had my 1.8T Tourer for a couple of days and the clutch is driving me mad. It seems to be a common problem listening to all the comments, but I will be taking it back to the dealer I bought it from who is an ex official Rover dealer.
For what its worth, I had a 416 gti (G reg) a 420 gsi (R reg) and now a 75 conn se cdt (51 reg) and they all seemed a bit heavy on the clutch, but you get used to it.
maxi_crawf
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