Ok, here's my sort of attempt at a sticky.
Only tools needed is a torx screwdriver and a pen knife. I've skipped the door card removal as there's other posts about removing them so onto the door lock. Pls excuse my pointed hands - I can't find decent arrows that I could use so it's pointed hands!
1. Firstly remove the 2 nuts (pointed fingers) holding the window runner. Haynes states the top nut just needs loosened but I found it needed removed - this is to help access when removing the lock. Also unclip the wiring loom where I've circled on below pic otherwise it gets in the way...
2. Tape the interior door handle to the door otherwise it swings about and is an obstruction...
3. Haynes states next to remove the electrical connecting socket - this can be very time consuming and fiddly as it has 2 flap locks on each side and getting the underside flap to open is near impossible. I've removed it at this stage and also later but I suggest leaving this plugged into the solenoid and remove later to save time and frustration...
4. Remove the sill button rod that clips into the solenoid - just pull it out of the green clip on the solenoid.
5. With the sill button rod removed take a look inside the door. You now need to remove the rod which links the door handle to the lock mechanism...
6. This rod is connected 2 ways at the top - DO NOT undo the white clip attached to the dirty clip, only the rod must be removed from the white clip. First picture shows the rod before the first part is disconnected and second picture shows the first part disconnected. Simply push the clip away from the rod stem until it unclips and you will now have the same as 2nd pic...
7. Now you can simply pull the rod from the hole it sits in...
8. Haynes states the link rod shown below now must be removed. I found this impossible with the lock still attached to car as you have to push exterior door handle mechansim towards exterior side to make space so I left it attached as I did not want to damage anything...
9. Next I untaped the interior door handle which I taped to the door as it's time to undo the 3 torx screws that hold the whole locking mechanism solenoid in place. Note please remember to hold lock when you unscrew it otherwise it will drop inside door. Once you've removed the screws and slightly move the lock you will feel the link rod on step 8 come out easier without having to force it...
10. You can leave the link rod attached to the door handle barrel or take out - it doesn't seem to matter. Carefully move the lock to the bottom of door and now is a good time to remove the electrical plug as the access to it is much better. Below is pic of electrical connector with the lock flaps on each side...
11. Now you have to remove lock from outside the door - there's a knack to it. Haynes says move the window runners forwards (to front of car) but you'll notice there's very little movement from them to do this. I found pushing the metal runners towards outisde of door (i.e. straight ahead against the door panel) made space available - this is also why I unscrewed the top nut (mentioned in step 1).
12. With lock removed this is how lock should look (note this is also how it should look when refitting) - these are all the connections to it when it's removed. Only 2 rods are connected - the interior door handle & the exterior door handle...
To refit is easy and basicaly start at step 12 and work backwards. However there are a few pointers that can aid refitting.
1B. You can either attach the pin rod (shown below) to the door lock before refitting lock or once door lock is fitting. I found the pin rod thing would fall off by the time you got the door lock back inside door unless I used blu-tac to keep it attached. It's probably easier to leave it unnattached until after you refit the door lock...
2B. It's handy to have an assistant to pull the exterior handle so that when reconnecting the plastic clip (in step 6) is much easier. I found putting the rod through the hole first and then clip in the stem of rod works best (if that makes sense). If someone pulls the handle, the clip moves further down and is less obstructed making easier to reattach. If you don't have an assistant to hand I found wrapping an old spanner in a towel and then wedging door handle open works - but don't open too far incase of damaging springs. You can also hold open door handle yourself but it's not ideal.
3B. There's no need to remove the clip shown on next pic when removing or refitting lock - unless you're refitting a new lock. I've taken a pic to show you how it fits to mechanism...
4B. If refitting a new lock you'll likely find the new lock does not have a padded foam backing on the side facing inside car - I suggest attaching a foam backing otherwise it will likely rattle when attached to door and driving around...
5B. Once everyting is reconnected I attached the sill buton rod last - wait till you hear the click when you press it in the clip as then you know it's in place.
6B. When all is done DO NOT REFIT DOOR CARD as if something is not quite right you won't be able to access the door lock should it not unlock. I suggest leaving the door card off for a few days to see if everything is working ok and then refit - better that than having to destroy a door card to access the lock.
7B. You might find once everything is fitted and ready to test out that the pin rod (mentioned in step 1B) might not have slotted in to the door handle properly - if you see the 4 points at the end (like a cross shape) then it's not correctly attached. I solved this by actually closing the door and locking it - this spins the hole the rod sit's in and the 4 points will then slot into their grooves and all will be correctly in place - now you shouldn't see the 4 points in the rod if you look.
Below are some pics of locks that may be of help.
My old lock on left and new lock on right...
My old lock mechanism - it all looks ok but it wasn't...
Only tools needed is a torx screwdriver and a pen knife. I've skipped the door card removal as there's other posts about removing them so onto the door lock. Pls excuse my pointed hands - I can't find decent arrows that I could use so it's pointed hands!
1. Firstly remove the 2 nuts (pointed fingers) holding the window runner. Haynes states the top nut just needs loosened but I found it needed removed - this is to help access when removing the lock. Also unclip the wiring loom where I've circled on below pic otherwise it gets in the way...
2. Tape the interior door handle to the door otherwise it swings about and is an obstruction...
3. Haynes states next to remove the electrical connecting socket - this can be very time consuming and fiddly as it has 2 flap locks on each side and getting the underside flap to open is near impossible. I've removed it at this stage and also later but I suggest leaving this plugged into the solenoid and remove later to save time and frustration...
4. Remove the sill button rod that clips into the solenoid - just pull it out of the green clip on the solenoid.
5. With the sill button rod removed take a look inside the door. You now need to remove the rod which links the door handle to the lock mechanism...
6. This rod is connected 2 ways at the top - DO NOT undo the white clip attached to the dirty clip, only the rod must be removed from the white clip. First picture shows the rod before the first part is disconnected and second picture shows the first part disconnected. Simply push the clip away from the rod stem until it unclips and you will now have the same as 2nd pic...
7. Now you can simply pull the rod from the hole it sits in...
8. Haynes states the link rod shown below now must be removed. I found this impossible with the lock still attached to car as you have to push exterior door handle mechansim towards exterior side to make space so I left it attached as I did not want to damage anything...
9. Next I untaped the interior door handle which I taped to the door as it's time to undo the 3 torx screws that hold the whole locking mechanism solenoid in place. Note please remember to hold lock when you unscrew it otherwise it will drop inside door. Once you've removed the screws and slightly move the lock you will feel the link rod on step 8 come out easier without having to force it...
10. You can leave the link rod attached to the door handle barrel or take out - it doesn't seem to matter. Carefully move the lock to the bottom of door and now is a good time to remove the electrical plug as the access to it is much better. Below is pic of electrical connector with the lock flaps on each side...
11. Now you have to remove lock from outside the door - there's a knack to it. Haynes says move the window runners forwards (to front of car) but you'll notice there's very little movement from them to do this. I found pushing the metal runners towards outisde of door (i.e. straight ahead against the door panel) made space available - this is also why I unscrewed the top nut (mentioned in step 1).
12. With lock removed this is how lock should look (note this is also how it should look when refitting) - these are all the connections to it when it's removed. Only 2 rods are connected - the interior door handle & the exterior door handle...
To refit is easy and basicaly start at step 12 and work backwards. However there are a few pointers that can aid refitting.
1B. You can either attach the pin rod (shown below) to the door lock before refitting lock or once door lock is fitting. I found the pin rod thing would fall off by the time you got the door lock back inside door unless I used blu-tac to keep it attached. It's probably easier to leave it unnattached until after you refit the door lock...
2B. It's handy to have an assistant to pull the exterior handle so that when reconnecting the plastic clip (in step 6) is much easier. I found putting the rod through the hole first and then clip in the stem of rod works best (if that makes sense). If someone pulls the handle, the clip moves further down and is less obstructed making easier to reattach. If you don't have an assistant to hand I found wrapping an old spanner in a towel and then wedging door handle open works - but don't open too far incase of damaging springs. You can also hold open door handle yourself but it's not ideal.
3B. There's no need to remove the clip shown on next pic when removing or refitting lock - unless you're refitting a new lock. I've taken a pic to show you how it fits to mechanism...
4B. If refitting a new lock you'll likely find the new lock does not have a padded foam backing on the side facing inside car - I suggest attaching a foam backing otherwise it will likely rattle when attached to door and driving around...
5B. Once everyting is reconnected I attached the sill buton rod last - wait till you hear the click when you press it in the clip as then you know it's in place.
6B. When all is done DO NOT REFIT DOOR CARD as if something is not quite right you won't be able to access the door lock should it not unlock. I suggest leaving the door card off for a few days to see if everything is working ok and then refit - better that than having to destroy a door card to access the lock.
7B. You might find once everything is fitted and ready to test out that the pin rod (mentioned in step 1B) might not have slotted in to the door handle properly - if you see the 4 points at the end (like a cross shape) then it's not correctly attached. I solved this by actually closing the door and locking it - this spins the hole the rod sit's in and the 4 points will then slot into their grooves and all will be correctly in place - now you shouldn't see the 4 points in the rod if you look.
Below are some pics of locks that may be of help.
My old lock on left and new lock on right...
My old lock mechanism - it all looks ok but it wasn't...