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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 18:42 Thread Starter
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Mayo removal.

As the title suggests,what's the best way to remove the lovely coating in the rocker box cover and all over the head?

My daughters euro box suffered HGF (it's not exclusive to K series)

Only consolation is it was due a belt change any way lol.

It would appear the waterways on the block are severly restricted (once the head was removed)

Car has been "in the family" for the last 8 years and has had coolant changed at the specified interval.

Once back together (before starting) I was thinking about back flushing the cooling system.

Also initial start and run upto temp then drop the new oil and replace it (and a new filter)

Ironically the "pot" which was down on compression (the waterlogged one) was the cleanest.(piston head/valves and plug looked almost new)
Not much carbon as compared to the other 3 cylinders.



So water injection isn't a bad thing if it's controlled.

cylinders 1-4 measured.
150 psi
175 psi
190 psi
190 psi
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 19:46
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I give the parts a good hose down and clean whilst apart in a washing up bowl, but reading your post it sounds you've reassembled it? In that case I'd run a coolant system flush through and wipe down with rags on non cooling system bits. What's the car out of interest?
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 22:17 Thread Starter
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It's all in bits at the moment lol.

Parts will be bought/ordered tomorrow from a local motor factor and hopefully back on the road Tuesday evening (today is Sunday)

Have had HGF on other cars but never the water in oil one like this.

The clean up seems to take longer than the repair.

Cheers Gnu,will get affected parts steamed off tomorrow and run a flush when re assembled to get any "nasties" out of the cooling system.

Your going to hate me when I say................
It's a mk1 Clio.(Daughter loves the car as it was her 18th birthday present)
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 22:20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnu View Post
I give the parts a good hose down and clean whilst apart in a washing up bowl, but reading your post it sounds you've reassembled it? In that case I'd run a coolant system flush through and wipe down with rags on non cooling system bits. What's the car out of interest?
By looking at that head it looks to be from a Fiat, either a punto or a cinquicento or saicento, but i could be wrong.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 22:35
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best method i found is to pop a dishwasher tablet in the coolant bottle, hell i even stuck a calgon limescale one in there too lol run it about for 100 miles ish with just water and dishwasher tablet, then drop the coolant and all should come out!
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 22:44 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Julian.heap View Post
By looking at that head it looks to be from a Fiat, either a punto or a cinquicento or saicento, but i could be wrong.
Possibly correct and if not you weren't too far away.

Think Renault and Fiat shared the same engine.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 22:52 Thread Starter
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best method i found is to pop a dishwasher tablet in the coolant bottle, hell i even stuck a calgon limescale one in there too lol run it about for 100 miles ish with just water and dishwasher tablet, then drop the coolant and all should come out!
Cheers for the tip
They need to re do the advert..................

Washing machines AND cars live longer with Calgon.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 15:31
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haha well i used a calgon tablet in an old frontera that had only ever ran water in its coolant bottle, the water was full of little crystals that even coolant flush wouldnt get out, popped the tab in, drove about for 100 miles and you should have seen the colour of the water that came back out again!

refilled with proper coolant and to this day it is still clear, no more crystals which i am going to assume where limescale
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 17:25 Thread Starter
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Mayo taken care of on the head and rocker cover.
On my way to procure gasket/belt etc. I called into a local engine engineering place to see if he some magic de mayo fluid.

Got everything cleaned/reface on the head and pressure tested for 25.

Rest of the stuff was 85 (belt kit inc water pump,full top end kit,oil/filter and a gallon of oat) from local garage.

Cleaned the block this afternoon and set the valves (in the kitchen on cardboard)

Hopefully I'll get it back together tomorrow.
Will use the dishwasher tablet once the air is out of the system to clear any lurking nasties.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 17-01-2016, 11:34
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Good work

All done now?

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 25-01-2016, 21:15 Thread Starter
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Daughter has been back on the road for the last few weeks with no reported problems.
I wanted to wait incase anything bad happened.

Hopefully her "little blue"will see another year or two.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 26-01-2016, 00:47
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Looks like car now sorted but, this post can be useful for anyone wanting a clean cooling system following CHG damage and coolant-oil mix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by coalman View Post

The clean up seems to take longer than the repair.

Cheers Gnu,will get affected parts steamed off tomorrow and run a flush when re assembled to get any "nasties" out of the cooling system.
I have highlighted this as that is very important. It does take much time but, needs to be done to ensure a good repair. Far too many whip off the cylinder head and bung on a new gasket. There's more to it than that to ensure the job is done well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Furryroo View Post
best method i found is to pop a dishwasher tablet in the coolant bottle, hell i even stuck a calgon limescale one in there too lol run it about for 100 miles ish with just water and dishwasher tablet, then drop the coolant and all should come out!
I use a similar technique with SPEEDFlush. :~



I do not follow the instructions "on the tin". That recommends running engine at fast idle for a period then drain and flush. I prefer to put it in the cooling system with water, not Anti-freeze ( I usually do this in warmer months ) and run the car for a few days say 30-50 miles. Then drain and use a garden hose to flush out any remnants lurking in the cooling system. It is effective stuff. Then add 50-50 OAT Coolant and water to the cleaned out system. The muck that process can clear out is surprising.





So that this:~



and these :~



Look at what was lurking in that radiator.



I was told that radiator was so badly blocked it could not be recovered. It was.

Then the garden hose treatment ~ only water should now be in the clean system :~







Can become this :~



and this :~



Yes, thoroughness like that takes time but, pays dividends in making a car so much a nicer place to be and far less prone to have further problems. Plus, you can check the all important coolant level with a speedy glance as soon as you lift the bonnet.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 19:54
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loving how clean the header tanks are, is that the speedflush?
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 20:43
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loving how clean the header tanks are, is that the speedflush?
Speedflush will flush out most maybe all of the "Mayo" from the cooling system but, not all the stains inside the coolant expansion bottles. That needs cleaning manually using petrol or strong detergents. A wad of rag on the end of stout wire worked around inside the bottle will remove most stains and pick up any remnant "Mayo". A Junior Hacksaw with saw blade removed works well for that. Even then, an overnight soaking in a weak bleach solution can bring it up like new.

Worth the time and effort though. Once the system is clean throughout, it will remain that way for years. Well, all mine do.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 20:50
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many thanks

tell you what, I really love repairing head gaskets!! what was once a very daunting job is now a breeze, however I have no idea how those mobile mechanics who do these in a day can manage it!! suppose it helps if two people are sharing the work and working in sync, but its a four dayer for me - first day stripdown, second day take head to be machined, then have a rest, and third day build the bulk of it back up, and the 4th finish off and get it started and change oil etc
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 22:05
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many thanks

tell you what, I really love repairing head gaskets!! what was once a very daunting job is now a breeze, however I have no idea how those mobile mechanics who do these in a day can manage it!! suppose it helps if two people are sharing the work and working in sync, but its a four dayer for me - first day stripdown, second day take head to be machined, then have a rest, and third day build the bulk of it back up, and the 4th finish off and get it started and change oil etc
Me too. I've done about a dozen now. Provided no serious overheating issues, as you say, it's a breeze. My son works much faster than I. That can lead to oversights. He has more experience of K-Series engines ~ bit too fast at times ~ he runs Metropower web site. Even his Lotus Elise is K-powered.

Mind you, I've seen him swap a K-Series 1.4 engine in a friend's Rover 25 in a couple of hours without disturbing the driveshafts. He can do K-Series cylinder head gaskets quite quickly too as I mentioned in a recent post on my MG ZT-T 1.8t project thread here :~

Under three hours

Cylinder Heads rarely need to be skimmed, just checked all is well and thoroughly cleaned. I have recently had a couple of Cylinder Heads refaced by a local engineering firm. Run by a couple of guys who really appear to know what needs doing. Not skimmed, but refaced on a grinding machine. Delighted with the results from all aspects. Here's the A-Series Cylinder head refaced on their grinding machine. It's from an MG Metro I gave my then schoolboy son about fifteen years ago. The 1982 MG Metro is two years older than he is.



Here's why. The third of a century old Cylinder Head Gasket "failed" miserably. Typical British rubbish. Should last at least a full century ...



You can change the CHG on an A-Series in about a leisurely hour. Less if you're in a hurry. Same with B-Series. The first car's CHG I changed back in the 1960s... A real doddle. Such is progress.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 22:15 Thread Starter
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lol once did a "moggy thou"

gasket and decoke in the blink of an eye.

plenty of elbow room and not a lot to remove.

ahh you have to love basic engines.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 22:41
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lol once did a "moggy thou"

gasket and decoke in the blink of an eye.

plenty of elbow room and not a lot to remove.

ahh you have to love basic engines.
Such is progress. On some modern cars, it's over an hour's work to replace simple light bulbs.


Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 19-05-2016, 17:43
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I take my heads to be refaced before refitting them, they only take off the least they can to get the surface flat and clean, some people will tell them to skim a load off to try and raise the compression, but it also has an ill effect of making it harder to get the cam timing right as the cam wheels become closer to the crank, a couple of mm's can make it hard to get all the timing marks correct.

Plus, I learnt the hard way, when the Mrs ZR gasket went, I deemed the head flat enough to refit without the surface being refaced, I cleaned it the best I could but after a month the gasket went again, could have been the BG gasket I used, but when I took the head to be refaced it had been done in the past and too much already taken off, it would have needed the valves taking out, and when I assembled it first time round I had problems timing it, we bought a complete refurbed head with plenty of meat on it and it was really easy to time up, has been going like new ever since, the lesson I learnt was do the job right first time, and just do it the once.
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 19-05-2016, 21:04
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I only have cylinder heads refaced if they have suffered corrosion or do not pass my trusty straight edge test.

I've had T-Series Cylinder Heads skimmed in the distant past. Mainly to clean up interfaces where poor quality coolant neglect has eroded important surfaces in the alloy. Now and in the future, if I ever see a head which needs treatment, I'll have it lightly refaced by a grinder, not a cutter.

So impressed was I by the finish after treatment and clean up with the grinder, I have had a K-Series Head prepared ready for any project I may take on in the future. That will speed up the gasket renewal process too.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

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Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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