Alernator - will it stop engine from starting? - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 18-02-2017, 16:50 Thread Starter
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Alernator - will it stop engine from starting?

Hello

I've got a 220 Turbo (1994). It was running a bit rough so i changed the spark plugs, distributor, rotor arm and HT leads.

Now it will not start at all. It cranks but will not "catch"

Could a knackered alternator stop the engine from starting?

Thank you
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 18-02-2017, 18:44
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Very unlikely.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 18-02-2017, 19:59
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NO.-Not unless a diode has failed and flattened
your battery
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 18-02-2017, 21:52
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Check and clean your earth terminal before you spend any more money.

They can cause everything from misfires, engine cut out to full out flat battery symptoms.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 19-02-2017, 11:22
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I've had a car conk out whilst moving from a faulty alternator. I could not then get the car started until I removed the drive belt. I think it was some sort of short circuit.

If your failure to start comes immediately after maintenance on the HT side, it is highly likely that you have done something to affect this, rather than an independent fault arising simultaneously. Are you getting sparks at the plugs?
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 19-02-2017, 23:40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LCK7 View Post
Hello

I've got a 220 Turbo (1994). It was running a bit rough so i changed the spark plugs, distributor, rotor arm and HT leads.

Now it will not start at all. It cranks but will not "catch"

Could a knackered alternator stop the engine from starting?

Thank you
Best way to tell if you alternator isn't working correctly is to jump start your car (Assuming your battery is flat) and once running disconnect the battery from the car. My MG ZR will continue to run when the battery is disconnected, as the alternator is generating sufficient power to produce a spark and keep the ECU running.

If you cant jump your car, you need to ensure you are getting a spark (Take spark plugs out the car and keep them connected to the distributor. Crank the engine and you will be able to see them spark / or not)

If that doesn't work, check to see if you are getting fuel into the engine. When you start the car you should hear the fuel pump pressurise / Kick in (about a 2 second moan sound) The best way to tell is to discount the pipe going into the fuel injectors, It is located just after the fuel filter under the bonnet. I think it has a orange or green connector that is easy to remove. Once you prime your fuel by turning the key, fuel should come out from there. (Not 100% on this. You might need to try and crank the engine).

You could have flodded the engine (I had this issue last week when the battery was weak and i kept cranking it) remove the spark plugs and let the cylinder breath for over night if its a cold day)

Going off something i read a while ago..... If its an immobiliser issue, the car start for about 3 seconds and then cut out...

Happy fault finding
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 20-02-2017, 14:40
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NEVER---Disconnect your battery when the engine is running. You can do serious damage to the alternator and other sensitive electronic items on your car.


It could be VERY expensive doing this. Be warned.---
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 20-02-2017, 21:32
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As above.

And no a duff alternator won't stop the car from starting. (unless the battery is flat of course!)
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 23:33
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Thanks everyone for the help.

Update:

checked the battery I'm getting 12.9v from it.

had a new starter motor put in about 2 months ago so I'm assuming that is working OK

I have checked that i am getting spark at all four plugs, is the correct firing order 1-3-4-2?

Does this mean the crank angle sensor is OK? I was also told that if the CAS is OK you get a spark then it must be OK as the ECU uses the CAS signal, i was also told that if the rev counter moves when you try to start the car it also means the CAS is working? i'm trying to rule the CAS out as it looks awkward to get too!

The fuel pump initialises when turning on the ignition, i tried cranking a few times then removed the plugs and they have fuel on them, so i am assuming im getting fuel in there.

could a faulty cam sensor stop the car from starting?

Where is the earth terminal?

Appreciate the help.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-03-2017, 11:41
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but you don't have any MIL glowing ,if it is with the cam sensor sure there will be some warning
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-03-2017, 16:17
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I'm not sure if there is a MIL on my car, i'll have a look on the dash to see if there are any lights that look like they might be for it.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 09:45
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I have a good spark from all of the 4 new plugs, etc so i am assuming the new dizzy, rotor, plugs and leads are all good?

Does the spark indicate that the crank angle sensor is working?

How do i take the alternator belt off? I would like to try that to eliminate the alternator as a problem. There was some squealing from the engine bay before i had the no start problem, not sure if this was from the alternator.

I have a compression tester ordered, as soon as that arrives i'll test the compression. As the car will not start i can't do this when the engine is warmed up, what is the minimum reading i need for compression for the car to start?

The reason i changed the plugs, etc was the car would drop revs when idling (down to 300 - 500 rpm sometimes, i thought this might be caused by the plugs, etc that's why i changed them). Does this shed any light on the potential problem?

As always very grateful for the help and advice.
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