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dashboard lights

2K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  spud1983 
#1 ·
Can anybody please tell me how to replace the lights on the dashboard and is it an easy job or very fiddly job on a 416slr m reg (old dash style)
thanks
 
#5 ·
I'm a bit heavy handed when i have undone the screw's and attempt to pull the facia out will i break anything or is it a bit hard to pull it out all the way i could only pull it to where the top bulb's are i'm just a bit scared to break anything to just replace a dash light
thanks
 
#6 ·
no it is easy mate just unscrew the screws at the top of the black suround and there is 2 more down next too the steering then it will lift out there will be 4 more screws holding in the clocks just unscrew them and lift out the clocks be carefull u need to unplug the plugs in the back then lift the clocks out fully look on the back and there are there to turn and lift out the bulbs then put it all back together
 
#7 ·
OK, step by step!

First a question, as this is posted in the "wedges" section, I assume this is a wedge!! (your profile says 400 95-99 aka bubble). If it isn't a wedge, some of the below may not be accurate.

On the LHS of the dash surround, gently pry out the hazard, fog, heated rear screen switch cluster. On the right remove the electric SR switch or blanking panel. Disconnect all the switches (no need to label as the multiplugs only fit in their "own" switch).

If you look in the holes left by the switches, you'll see two black pozi head screws. Undo them (don't worry if you drop the screws, they won't get lost). In the top edge of the instrument panel surround, there are two more screws. Un do these - best with either a stubby screw driver, or an extra long one that reaches past the steering wheel shroud.

With four screws removed, the surround should EASILY come out, feeding the switch connectors through their respective holes. If it doesn't, check you've got all four screws out. It is possible to confuse the lower surround screws with the lower instrument cluster screws (more of whch in a moment!).

Once the surround is removed, you should be able to see the four screws holding the instrument cluster in place. The two lower ones are close to the surround screws, the upper ones are tucked in at about "2 o'clock" and "10 o'clock". Remove these four, the instrumet cluster should feel loose, but still be "held" in place - this is mainly the speedo cable. Under the bonnet, you'll find the speedo cable (~5mm dia stiff black plastic "cable") going through the bulkhead next to the brake servo and disappearing down the back of the engine. About 30cm along the cable is a connector. Depending on design, this is either a 1/4 turn to undo it, or pull the outer surround which allows the two parts to seperate.

Once freed, push the cable through teh bulkhead as far as it will go.

Back inside the car, gently (but reasonably firmly) pull the instrument cluster out. Watch out for the up "tangs", they often seem to get caught. You may need to go and push the speedo cable through some more.

Eventually, you'll pull the cluster out enough to JUST get you hand in the back on the RHS. Just to be clear, at this stage the cluster WON'T come all the way out, so don't pull too much! Once you can get your hand in, you can release the speedo cable from the cluster - even by feel it is fairly obvious, there is a plastic "spring" clip thay just needs to be pressed and allows the cable to be pulled out.

With the speedo disconnected, the cluster will come a bit further out. It helps to twist it, so the RHS is further out than the LHS. You can then release the three electrical connectors - two are white and about 4cm wide, and one is a small blue one.

With the three electrical connectors released, there is nothing left holding the cluster in place and it should come out quite easily!!

I know I've done it a few times, but it took me longer to type this than to get the cluster out.

In the famed words of Haynes, "replacement is the reverse of removal". Ha, ha!! Electrical connectors, speedo to cluster, pull cable in to engine bay and reconnect, four screws to secure the cluster, fit the surround (pull the switch connectors through as you go), and fit the four remaining screws. The worse ones are the lower two - a bit of blutac on the screwdriver helps. Then fit the connectors on to the switches and press the switches into their slots.

Job done :D
 
#8 ·
hi cochapman
yes it's a wedge! thats great thanks for taking all your time to tell me good job i waited i was just going to pull it out so the next message would have been lights on dash working great but! speedo,oil,battery,check engine light,temp,fuel NOT working so thanks for that you have just made a poor man very happy.
 
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