Removal of R600 Sill Covers - Forums
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 16-03-2017, 16:35 Thread Starter
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Removal of R600 Sill Covers

I've checked the Rover Handbook and also had a look at one previous thread on here about this. Both say to remove the screw clips under the sill cover and then slide it forward to release it from the retaining clips.

In fact that's not so easy as the cover has an end-cap at the rear wheel arch. It was pretty cold today, so the plastics were a bit less flexible than they might been on a summers day, but it seemed to me and my buddy that a lot of force and bending was going be required to slide the cover forward, and the retaining clips might well break.

Also, are those clips still easy to source?

Any advice would be appreciated.

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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 16-03-2017, 17:32
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Actualy cannot offer much more help, just a few pictures to see what you expect with retaining clips.

and a couple of links where you can buy these clips:

A: Clip-sill finisher retaining - upper - Genuine MG Rover at

D: Clip - Genuine MG Rover at
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 16-03-2017, 18:38
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Four months ago my favourite 620ti failed on corroded end sills. See the attached images in my post on the "So, what have you done" thread here :~

So, what have you done to your Rover 600 Today?

Roverlike's illustrations help. Count the fasteners and their locations. It helped when I sprayed all with good penetrating fluid.

So removal of those side skirts are still fresh in my mind. Several unseen fasteners need removal from under the length of the Plastic Cover sills. There should be a plastic or metal fastener holding the end in the inside of the rear wheel arch. That needs to be removed. There may be one at the front end. That too must be removed.

Then carefully pull the rear end out of the rear wheel arch clear of the metal undersills. Then, using a 4lb Club Hammer, I tapped the rear end forwards to release it from all those white plastic fasteners. It then came away freely. Two of the plastic fasteners ( A Side Clip in Roverlike's lower drawings ) became fractured. Fortunately in a local breaker yard was a Honda with it's Sills already removed exposing all those Side Clips. I collected about seven of those in good shape.


Simply assemble all the clips onto the plastic skirts and offer them up to the series of holes one the length of the metal side sills. Then press the side cover against all the locations after lining up those Side Clips with their appropriate holes. Then a sharp slap with the hand will see those Slide Clips compress as they enter their location holes and then expand holding the sill secure. Those clips are designed to do that. That takes less than five seconds once you've lined them up correctly. Wish removal of the side skirt sills was as easy.

I removed them as leaving them in place would involve extra labour time charges for removal ~ at least half and hour ~ and heavy handed treatment would almost certainly damage parts. Particularly those plastic Side Clips with their little rubber seals which are at least 2 each last time I looked.

By removing those side skirts, my pro-welder was able to work immediately on and repair those corroded rear wheel arch locations.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 16-03-2017, 21:52
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In my experience you need to brute force the rear ones out (they may pop out or they may break), before tapping it forward to release the rest of the clips. You can buy the clips easily enough on e-bay etc. I ordered a pack when I did the rear arches on mine about a year ago. If you need me to look up where I got them then let me know.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 17-03-2017, 00:06 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help guys. I think the situation is that basically, we wimped out - just needed more muscle to be applied. Sacrificing some of the clips seems unavoidable maybe?

I have an MoT next week, so we had it on the ramp today. Don't think the sills will be an issue, but does look like getting some paint in that area now would be a good move.

While it was on the ramp I had a look at some of the underbody painting I did last spring and it looked really good. Used paints by Johnstone's, first, their fast drying zinc phosphate primer and then their Metal Cladding paint; I really like that stuff. The primer is what Screwfix sell as their own brand "Red Oxide" paint, but of course there's no lead in paint these days and that name refers only to the colour - which looks like the old red lead paint!

Had the 600 for 13 years now (paid 1400 for it!) and it is 19 years old; it's not quite "showroom" any more but it is totally reliable and sound in every other respect .

Also have a Toyota Celica but I parted with my old Vauxhall Viva, which need more work than I could cope with.
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