Rover 600 - FAQ's information - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 9 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
post #21 of 72 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 23:10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Car: Rover 600
Posts: 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by hfz_3 View Post
Windows sliding out of runners:

Simply spray the rubber runners with Simonz back to black spray many times. (No need to replace window mech/motor/etc)
Okay. My drivers electric window struggles at the last point. It does close but sometimes the relay in the switch starts clicking before it closes fully. So, what you are saying is spray the rubber seals with this stuff?

Was going to use silicon grease (spray) very lightly to smooth the contact with the top of the window. Maybe this will do the same thing??

Thx. Steve R
SteveR is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 72 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 23:32
Supporter
 
MGJohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Gloucestershire - Cotswold Cockney
Car: MG Montego Turbo; 620ti x3; MG ZS; MGF and MG ZT 1.8t x2; MG ZT-T x1
Posts: 21,158
Chances are that one or both the 'scissors' lifting mechanism arms are bent and/or one/both of the plastic bearing wheels is broken and no longer runs true in it's channel rail just below the bottom of the window glass.

You may get away with using a lubricant on the side rubber channels (and the top one too) so that it fully locates closed at the top in the rails and guides. I've used a silicon furniture polish which has helped but the only guaranteed fix is a door card off, strip and careful alignment of all those items which have been bent or twisted.

If those little plastic wheels at the end of the scissors arms in their channels are not damaged, then a careful realignment of the channels and 'scissors' arms can be all that's needed to fix it perfectly ~ if your lucky. Forcing the glass closed can damage those little wheels and other parts of the mechanism.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
MGJohn is offline  
post #23 of 72 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 23:45
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Car: Rover 600
Posts: 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by MGJohn View Post
Chances are that one or both the 'scissors' lifting mechanism arms are bent and/or one/both of the plastic bearing wheels is broken and no longer runs true in it's channel rail just below the bottom of the window glass.

You may get away with using a lubricant on the side rubber channels (and the top one too) so that it fully locates closed at the top in the rails and guides. I've used a silicon furniture polish which has helped but the only guaranteed fix is a door card off, strip and careful alignment of all those items which have been bent or twisted.

If those little plastic wheels at the end of the scissors arms in their channels are not damaged, then a careful realignment of the channels and 'scissors' arms can be all that's needed to fix it perfectly ~ if your lucky. Forcing the glass closed can damage those little wheels and other parts of the mechanism.
K.. It closed normally most of the time but sometimes slows at the end.. When it's wet outside, it's almost perfect so I suspect a bit of lube will help out.. Better than wearing out the mech.. Thanks for the advice. I suspect I will become addicted to this place..


Regards. SteveR
SteveR is offline  
 
post #24 of 72 (permalink) Old 11-01-2007, 05:36
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Surrey
Car: MG ZR 160, S210 Mercedes E55 AMG, Land Rover Disco 4
Posts: 92
I'm totally addicted already! A goldmine of information on here!
bazeebond is offline  
post #25 of 72 (permalink) Old 14-01-2007, 09:09
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Rugby!
Car: Rover 600
Posts: 11
yeah i had the same problem only the white plastic wheel was broke and the scissor arms well bent.i fitted a new motor £40 from the scrappy and it worked like a bag of ***** till i put wd40 in the rubbers wd40 is good cause you can use the straw on the can to relly get deep in the rubber! both front electric windows work fine now. there is no greater feeling then when you fix something and it works perfectly!
beardy man is offline  
post #26 of 72 (permalink) Old 20-02-2007, 20:21
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Car: Rover 600
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by hfz_3 View Post
Windows sliding out of runners:

Simply spray the rubber runners with Simonz back to black spray many times. (No need to replace window mech/motor/etc)
After two sessions of re-fitting the glass in the drivers door, I now spray WD40 into the glass grooves, then smear the glass grooves with vaseline every few months. Wind the windows up and down loadsa times while spraying/smearing to get the stuff all the way down into the door. No more probs. Also the glass runs up and down much more easily.

Last edited by theskrebs; 20-02-2007 at 20:28.
theskrebs is offline  
post #27 of 72 (permalink) Old 20-02-2007, 20:34
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Car: Rover 600
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by RED-ROVER-Ti View Post
sorry to post whore but....

the interior light switches on all 4 doors are prone to fail. very common on eBay so sourcing them is a doddle

also the rocker cover gaskets fail often too. usually in the right hand corner.
The light switches can be prised apart. Semi wrap the unit in a cloth beforehand, so you catch the spring if it flies out. Usually, its ok tho. Clean the contact areas with a bit of wet and dry, smear with vaseline and put it back together.
theskrebs is offline  
post #28 of 72 (permalink) Old 20-02-2007, 21:02
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Car: Rover 600
Posts: 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by theskrebs View Post
After two sessions of re-fitting the glass in the drivers door, I now spray WD40 into the glass grooves, then smear the glass grooves with vaseline every few months. Wind the windows up and down loadsa times while spraying/smearing to get the stuff all the way down into the door. No more probs. Also the glass runs up and down much more easily.
Fixed mine the other day. Bought some silicone grease from Maplins. Sprayed it in and it worked a treat. No stressing or strain from the window closing. No mess. Easy and works perfectly..!

SteveR
SteveR is offline  
post #29 of 72 (permalink) Old 21-03-2007, 16:40
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Car: Rover 600
Posts: 10
RE: 600 FAQs

I've had my diesel 600 for a year now. It's going quite well now but I've encountered several of the issues mentioned in the list here. However, thanks to the forum I've either managed to fix them or at least know where to start looking before having to take it to the garage and therefore been able to keep the costs down. So far I've had a stuck exhaust gas recirculation valve causing the car to judder at low low revs (cured by the looking on the forum and disconnecting the vacuum hose, solenoid and air flow sensor), faulty door pillar switches causing the alarm / immobiliser to stop working (fixed thanks to the forum and ebay), leaking clutch master cylinder (managed to diagnose using the forum but ended up getting fixed at a garage - figured there was too much of a risk of me messing it up!), loose / worn gearbox linkage meaning gearstick flopped around and had trouble finding gears (fixed using advice form the forum but got away with replacing the bolt and washer on the base of the gearstick / connecting rod rather than changing out the whole UV joint) and finally the apparently ubiquitous stuck aerial (managed to fix briefly but eventually gave up and disconnected the motor and now just raise it manually).
All in all must've saved a few quid due to the various posts on the site. I'm not a great mechanic by any means so a few of the problems above (in particular the EGR problem) might well have ended up with me getting rid of the car without the forum coz I wouldn't have a had a clue where to look and wouldn't have wanted to put a 400 quid car into a garage for fear of a huge bill. So cheers guys. I think the FAQ is a good idea coz there are probably a lot of folk like me buying these cars coz they look like good value but possibly ending up regretting it when something goes wrong and don't know where to start so end up paying a fortune to garages.
Keep up the good work!
GHFM is offline  
post #30 of 72 (permalink) Old 28-03-2007, 23:27
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Bridgend South Wales
Car: Rover 620ti, 2x 1996 MGF, 4x MG TF, Mazda Bongo, 2x 1999 MGF, 1972 Ford Cortina Mk3 Citroen Picasso
Posts: 1,187
problem with the heated mirror switch not working? with a bit of prising it can be taken apart, contacts cleaned and resurected
dert is offline  
post #31 of 72 (permalink) Old 24-04-2007, 16:42
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Car: Rover 600
Posts: 22
Send a message via MSN to bobsp16
[quote=MGJohn;1796825]Chances are that one or both the 'scissors' lifting mechanism arms are bent and/or one/both of the plastic bearing wheels is broken and no longer runs true in it's channel rail just below the bottom of the window glass.


i had this same prob with the ti ive just brought, the prevus owner did tell me about it and knocked off 100quid off the sale price.
this is one of the very common problems on 600 as i found out when i went down to my local scrapy were there we 6 600 and all there window machanism were gone.
so i went home and stripped it all down and found that one of the plastic rollers was broken off the scissors lifting rale..anyway i dont think i will have any more problems with it again as i replaced them two plastic roller by snipping them off and welding on 2 washer of the same size fitted it all back greesed up the rail and i think it works better than new now even without loobing up the window runner rubbers......try doing it
bobsp16 is offline  
post #32 of 72 (permalink) Old 17-05-2007, 13:28
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Plymouth
Car: MG TF
Posts: 14
Guys,
I have a problem with the idle speed on my 620 Si.
When it's cold the engine runs on the fast idle with no problems, when it's thoughly warmed through it runs on the normal slow idle with no problems.
The problem occours when the car is changing from cold running to warm running, the engine rythmicaly revs from about 1100 revs to about 1500 and drops back only to rev again a second or so later. I believe that this is refered to as 'Idle hunting'.
The air hoses are not leaking or split (I have checked!) and I have had it suggested that it is the Idle Air Control Valve.
I have removed and cleaned the valve (best I can because of the security fixings that hold it together) which made no difference, I even found one in a scrappy for a tenner, but it made no difference either.
So now I don't know if the valve that I got from the scrap yard was duff or if it's not the problem and it's something else.
I would greatly appreciate any advice.

Cheers
BikerMatt is offline  
post #33 of 72 (permalink) Old 17-05-2007, 13:34
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: norwich
Car: nissan skyline
Posts: 1,201
buy a £5 thermostat and go from there
RED-ROVER-Ti is offline  
post #34 of 72 (permalink) Old 17-05-2007, 14:43
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Plymouth
Car: MG TF
Posts: 14
A thermostat?!
Bugger. I didn't think of that. I will get one and see if that cures it!

Many thanks.
BikerMatt is offline  
post #35 of 72 (permalink) Old 01-06-2007, 08:13
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Plymouth
Car: MG TF
Posts: 14
Unhappy

Red Rover,
I have replaced the thermostat and....
Hasn't made a blind bit of difference.
I may have to take it to an injection specialist to get a diagnosis.
BikerMatt is offline  
post #36 of 72 (permalink) Old 14-06-2007, 17:44
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Car: Rover 600
Posts: 11
Unhappy

Quote:
Originally Posted by hfz_3 View Post
Windows sliding out of runners:

Simply spray the rubber runners with Simonz back to black spray many times. (No need to replace window mech/motor/etc)
I wish I'd seen this earlier. The poor old motor was struggling so hard to close the window I used to have to help it. Then it gave out.

I guess that means a new motor now?
JJMMWGDuPree is offline  
post #37 of 72 (permalink) Old 29-06-2007, 12:26
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Plymouth
Car: MG TF
Posts: 14
I have recently been aflicted with the dreadful curse of the '600 handbrake!
The handbrake would only actuate on the offside wheel, while the nearside varied between doing nothing and then locking the handbrake on that side. This, I have decided was not fun, so I examined the problem and thought to myself, I recognise this, it's a pain in the arse, that's what it is.
So after stripping the caliper to no avail, I decided to visit my local scrap yard for a replacement unit.
£20 later I have a caliper that I can strip down in my garage, pausing only to swear in my most colourful language (I am a Sailor) at the seized bleed nipple, I clean up the caliper inside and wire brush the muck off the outside.

At this point I am quietly hopeful that this will indeed work. I jack up the car, and with my trusty axle stands in place I remove the existing caliper. The 'new' one slides into place perfectly (standardisation, what a wonderful idea, thankyou Samuel Colt and Henry Ford) I slacken the handbrake cable from inside the car and hook up the brake hose and the cable.
I ask my wife very nicely if she would help with the bleeding of the brakes for a few minutes, in reply I get "Do I have to? I'm watching Big Brother."
"No dear, you don't have to, I can get a garage to recover the car and do it for me, but that will cost the several hundreds of pounds that you want to spend in Ikea, you can watch 'Big Brother' any time you want, it's on 24 hours a day for the next 37 years isn't it?"

She grudgingly helped me bleed the brakes.

I adjusted up the handbrake cable, and it all works perfectly now.

All I can say is I'm happy that there is no handbrake on a motorbike!

Last edited by BikerMatt; 18-07-2007 at 09:36.
BikerMatt is offline  
post #38 of 72 (permalink) Old 30-06-2007, 16:08
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Car: Rover 618iS
Posts: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by BikerMatt View Post
(standardisation, what a wonderful idea, thankyou Henry Ford)

Yeah but Henry Ford copied the idea of interchangabilty and standardisation from Sam Colt. Colt thought it was a good idea if his revolvers could be repaired without having to handmake every part, which could be a bit of a challenge in some places.
Redhawk is offline  
post #39 of 72 (permalink) Old 03-07-2007, 09:25
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Plymouth
Car: MG TF
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redhawk View Post
Yeah but Henry Ford copied the idea of interchangabilty and standardisation from Sam Colt. Colt thought it was a good idea if his revolvers could be repaired without having to handmake every part, which could be a bit of a challenge in some places.
Very true, I refer to standardisation in the sense of 'Mass Production' on an assembly line where Mr Ford perfected the ideas started by Mr Colt with his strangely named '0.45 Peace maker'!
BikerMatt is offline  
post #40 of 72 (permalink) Old 07-07-2007, 20:46
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Car: Rover 600
Posts: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by E_T_V View Post
Common problems:
Window mechanisms - they bend and break. Keep the window rubbers well lubricated with rubber lubricant to stop it happening.
What lubricant would you recomend?? I have tride a few things but with little success.
Supraboy is offline  
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the MG-Rover.org Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Gear Oil FAQ's oilman MG/R Modification & Tuning 2 09-09-2008 13:18
Coupe FAQ's Stu Coupe 22 06-02-2008 21:49
Oil Recommendations.. Couldn't find in FAQ's SteveR Rover 600 7 19-02-2007 23:09
Rover SD1 information rwproverv8 Others 3 08-03-2006 21:18
any information on a n reg rover 416i simp Others 1 15-08-2005 20:45

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome