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post #61 of 72 (permalink) Old 14-05-2009, 18:38
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Unhappy Central locking and alarms

Hi everyone this is my first post and would be extramely grateful if anyone can help solve my problems with my beloved Rover 600.

The central locking has stopped working, the key unlocks the doors but doesn't lock them, only the drivers door. When driving the doors will randomly lock themselves and try to unlock, sometimes it constantly locks/tries to unlock 10-20 times in the space of 30 minutes, while driving.

Also the alarm seems to go off at anytime when parked for no apparent reason. Any advice would be fantastic.
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post #62 of 72 (permalink) Old 08-01-2010, 17:52
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cold starts

Hi, having not had the car (623auto) long slowly found out not to touch the throttle, just turn key, it hates any use of throttle
RAC man advised these are set to run on very weak mixture for economy and can't cope with any extra fuel on first swing of engine.
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post #63 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 22:55
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Hi Lozza1980,
This is my first post. I have also had this issue and found that i had a bad earth on the drivers door wiring socket. I cleaned the sockets with WD40 and dried it out and its been 100% since.
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post #64 of 72 (permalink) Old 07-11-2010, 21:13
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Does using WD40 or Silicone grease on the window seals not cause streaks when you put the window down and then back up?

Also how does tinting the windows affect the operation of the electrics?
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post #65 of 72 (permalink) Old 12-11-2010, 08:09
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Originally Posted by TarkMalbot View Post
Does using WD40 or Silicone grease on the window seals not cause streaks when you put the window down and then back up?

Also how does tinting the windows affect the operation of the electrics?
I regularly used to use spray-on silicone lubricant (not WD40) in the guide rubbers on our 600 and never noticed any smearing and it did seem to make the electric operation smoother,especially in the winter. As you will know, they are quite vulnerable to failure as the 'lift' arm is a bit flimsy and can bend and I was quite worried about this.

I doubt if tint on the windows would make any difference but I'm not sure. Personally i wouldn't bother as I would be just thankful to have operating windows. Tinting the front windows is illegal anyway.
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post #66 of 72 (permalink) Old 12-11-2010, 10:04
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I have recently come to realise what your talking about. At first I cleaned out the seals at the bottom of the window along the door and using a lubricant on there would streak the window every time it goes up and down. Since having the door cards off to fit the spreakers I have realised it is the vertical guides that cause the problem and have lubricated these which worked a treat.

And the back windows on mt 600 are electric so tinting would apply to them. THe reason i wanted tints was if I wanted a kip in the back whilst stopping for long journeys in the middle of the night. lol
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post #67 of 72 (permalink) Old 13-11-2010, 07:42
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Originally Posted by TarkMalbot View Post

And the back windows on mt 600 are electric so tinting would apply to them. THe reason i wanted tints was if I wanted a kip in the back whilst stopping for long journeys in the middle of the night. lol
Thats a new name for it ! I believe you, thousands wouldn't !
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post #68 of 72 (permalink) Old 13-11-2010, 09:46
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Tints shouldnt make any difference as long as the channels are lubed with the aforementioned silicone .
you can tint front windows but they must allow 75% of the light through , so I would be looking at "light smoke" for the fronts and "limo black" for the rears , andy
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post #69 of 72 (permalink) Old 14-11-2010, 07:48
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you can tint front windows but they must allow 75% of the light through , so I would be looking at "light smoke" for the fronts and "limo black" for the rears , andy
Didn't know that, Andy. So presumably you could legally do the windscreen. Still seems dodgy thing to do though as far as visibilty is concerned, you really need 100% out front especially in rain, fog etc. Personally, I don't like even stickers on the windscreen (I have to put up with the tax disc) or any clutter on the dash when it reflects in the screen, even though the 600 has that really useful tray on top.

Last edited by cabinscooter; 14-11-2010 at 08:01. Reason: typo
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post #70 of 72 (permalink) Old 14-11-2010, 07:53
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Originally Posted by cabinscooter View Post
Didn't know that, Andy. So presumably you could legally do the windscreen. Still seems dodgy thing to do though as far as visibilty is concerned, you really need 100% out front especially in rain, fog etc.
sorry , should have clarified , fronts meaning front side windows , you cannae touch the windscreen at all , andy
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post #71 of 72 (permalink) Old 15-11-2010, 13:30
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Remember clear glass only lets about 80-90% of light through to start with though, meaning any tint on the front is EXTREMELY limited.
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post #72 of 72 (permalink) Old 28-03-2013, 09:23
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Yeah but Henry Ford copied the idea of interchangabilty and standardisation from Sam Colt. Colt thought it was a good idea if his revolvers could be repaired without having to handmake every part, which could be a bit of a challenge in some places.
Sorry to tell the Americaphile's that it was in Mr Whitworth, of the thread fame, who first proved it was possible to accurately measure to one millionth of an inch and then invented the difference gauge. The Pattern roof at Enfield Lock was set up and special gauge patterns made so that not matter who made the parts for the British muskets of he day they would fit an musket of that type as they were made to these gauges. The machines to make the Colt revolvers were made by Messers Pratt & Whitney who incidentally made Sams first guns.

The American copied the idea. many of these British muskets were used by the Americans in the American civil war on both sides, or if your from the south "The War of Northern Agression" and more Enfield Muskets of .577" bore were used than any other musket during the war. They were also made in Belgium to feed the demand as we could not make enough of them to supply Americas needs.
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