So, what have you done to your Rover 600 Today? - Page 63 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1241 of 1255 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 23:34 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by E_T_V View Post
I hope you fitted the correct turbo spec exhaust gasket. The aftermarket ones just simply aren't up to it. The foil faced ones don't last long at all. The proper ones are expensive but they are certainly worth the extra!
Yes, agreed. About ten years ago, I bought off "shirley" ebay a small batch of those higher spec ones with the reinforced Fire Ring surrounds. Proper Gaskets you can see at a glance the BIG differences in quality.

The car now does not make any nasty noises like that made by escaping exhaust gasses which surprisingly can have a very loud metallic sound.. In fact it's running as well as at any time in my eleven years of ownership. I use it mainly for towing as the extra power and superb brakes help cope with the towing. Here it is recovering a stranded ZT. My younger son piloting the towed car. Like so many good tru-Brit cars, hugely under estimated ,,,particularly by the Brits.



.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #1242 of 1255 (permalink) Old 13-10-2016, 09:57
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Fancy that. Having to sell your house to keep both rovers on the road. Now that is commitment!
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post #1243 of 1255 (permalink) Old 13-10-2016, 11:27 Thread Starter
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Fancy that. Having to sell your house to keep both rovers on the road. Now that is commitment!
Not only that, I had to sell all my children too ... and get rid of numerous wives.

Got a good price for them as well.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #1244 of 1255 (permalink) Old 15-10-2016, 21:07
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Well today I had to change the top wishbone as it the ball joint was worn out. Nothing particularly challenging, just access is a pain as the bolt is under the fusebox to remove it all. No pictures as well it wasn't that big or interesting a job.

You can get the ball joints separately to fit into your existing arm, but when an after market arm popped up for 5.94 including postage it was a simple decision to make! Aftermarket parts aren't as good at the originals, I guess the top wishbone was last changed probably 5 or 6 years ago but if this one lasts that long I'll be happy!
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post #1245 of 1255 (permalink) Old 15-10-2016, 21:19
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V314LAB - Kinversand 600 2.0Si.... Tappet clearances: Found every inlet clearance, and half the exhaust clearances slack. One of the exhaust clearances was slightly tight. Noticeable difference to engine noise - quieter on the road, and no tickety-tickety-tick at idle. To quote Louis Balfour, "Nice!"
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post #1246 of 1255 (permalink) Old 18-10-2016, 21:17
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I currently have one part no: ALA130100 making it's way down to me from Carlisle. That'll sort all the various rusty bits on the passenger side in one go.
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post #1247 of 1255 (permalink) Old 18-10-2016, 23:33 Thread Starter
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I currently have one part no: ALA130100 making it's way down to me from Carlisle. That'll sort all the various rusty bits on the passenger side in one go.
Pictures of that when it arrives and the subsequent work in progress would be welcome... :thumbsup:

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #1248 of 1255 (permalink) Old 19-10-2016, 13:13
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Well it's arrived. There's a few small bents and scratches in it, suppose that's to be expected with the panel having sat around for so long, then it had to be posted. Nothing too major, can't even pick them up on the camera. Gonna be interesting to see what is unearthed when I remove the panel from the car.



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post #1249 of 1255 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 13:44 Thread Starter
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My favourite 620ti Fails Mot.

I was fully expecting this as there was extensive signs of corrosion in both lower rear wheel arches. I put the car in anyway in case other things showed up needing to be rectified. Pleased it was only the corrosion issues which caused the car not to pass.

I attach images showing the corrosion prior to repair and after. Two of each. I will prepare, tidy up and paint both areas once the car has been re-tested on Tuesday. The welding cost me 150 which considering the extensive corrosion on the nearside is good value. All being well with the Free re-test, the overall cost to get this car to live on another year at least is still under 200. Money well spent and the fine car is worth it to me. Over the ten plus years I've had the car, that's by far the most I've ever had to spend on it to pass the MoT test. Normally it passes with just the usual advices about hand brake efficiency just met the pass parameters.

Moving swiftly on, more good news. My project ZT-T 1.8t passed its MoT test today. All it needed was a rear indicator bulb. The tester considered it not yellow/amber enough but looked OK to my old minces. Total cost to include fitting bulb and MoT test fee... 29.20p ... How bad is that for a car destined for the scrapyard having been wrongly diagnosed with the "They all do that" so called cylinder head gasket failure back in the summer. This ZT-T is fast becoming my favourite daily driver alongside the above Rover 620ti I've had for over ten years. Took a couple of images of the car whilst being tested. :~





Good day all round....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2016-11-08 T16 TBO MoT Time and work needed. 006.jpg (163.9 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg 2016-11-08 T16 TBO MoT Time and work needed. 007.jpg (170.0 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg 2016-11-11 T16 TBO Welding required for the MoT ~ retest. 001.jpg (138.5 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg 2016-11-11 T16 TBO Welding required for the MoT ~ retest. 003.jpg (118.1 KB, 15 views)

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #1250 of 1255 (permalink) Old 15-11-2016, 22:18 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Free Re-Test Passed.

10.45 am prompt arrived as arranged for "while you wait" re-test appointment. The car passed as I anticipated. In and out in about ten minutes with a nice new MoT Certificate.

My favourite Rover 620ti I've had for over ten years lives on in good health for another twelve months. Here it is.



On the way home decided to blow away some cobwebs. A 1.8t AUDI drophead coupe had been following me in the slower heavy traffic and was always shaping up anxious to get past. We both turned out of a roundabout into a traffic free dual carriageway all to ourselves. Keen not to hold him up any longer, I floored it in second and third leaving the flashy AUDI trailing. As I settled down to avoid a silly high well into licence losing speeds.... He was still coming fast and passed me at over three figures I would guess once I had eased up.

During that brief sprint, I lowered both windows to clear the air and any damp out of the little used car. This enabled me to hear the delightful Induction noise of the T-Series with K&N Panel Filter very clearly. I had forgotten how good that sounds through the gears up towards the Rev-Limiter. The old girl did me proud today... not for the first time...

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......
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post #1251 of 1255 (permalink) Old 09-02-2017, 19:33 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Opportunity to blow some cobwebs away in my trusty 620ti.

Got a call from City Powder Coaters that the Nine Wheels and a couple of car parts I left with them for refurbishment a week ago were ready for collection.

I had used the MG ZT-T to take them up to Birmingham and was about to use that car again to go and get them today. The ZT-T's load space area can cope with them well. Then I remembered having put some SPEEDFlush in the car's cooling system ( immediate strong improvement in the previously poor heater output - not nice this time of year - so Heater matrix has been cleared... Bonus ) and a 120 mile round trip with that still in may not be advisable. Speedflush instructions recommend a period at fast engine idle. No driving ... I drive the car 20-30 miles only then drain and flush. Works well for me.

Here's the load on the way up last week.



I can put two of the 18" ZT alloys in the 600's boot with one of each of the 12" MG Metro Alloys inside on cushions and towels to protect the nice refurbished finish. Another pair on the rear seat and all nine wheels safe for today's collection trip.

The 620ti ~ see previous post ~ performed well M5 traffic was quite reasonable and not the usual high density travelling vehicle madhouse it can be. Nice mostly Motorway journey which makes a refreshing change. On arrival back home, the lower area of the car was covered in what appears salt. The roads did look as though they had been salted recently in anticipation of the forecast sharp drop in temperatures over the approaching weekend. Hope the forecasters are wrong so I can work outside on the project car. Too cold to do that today and the heater output from the 600 was a delight to my old bones.

Back home able to look more closely at the refurbished wheels and parts. Considering the poor condition originally, I am delighted with the vastly improved end result. No doubt my son will be about his MK1 Metro "Pepperpots" and front bumper centre section. Those Metro parts are now thirty five years old and now look like new.

I bought a cheap CarCam off ebay ~ very cheap ~ tenner posted and today used it for the first time for the whole journey. Much smaller than my old Carcam and it uses a very small micro-card. The picture quality not so good as the larger old one, but quite acceptable. They will be better in a stronger sunlight. Very dull cloud cover today with no Sun at all.

Glad to have that job complete and in the bag now.

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......

Last edited by MGJohn; 09-02-2017 at 19:38.
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post #1252 of 1255 (permalink) Old 11-02-2017, 17:56
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Hi,

Well I bought a 620 diesel (V/99) this week, and I too have poor parking brake efficiency, and when I prodded the bubbly bit at the end of the rear wheel arch I got a little hole...that grew a bit! Looks like I'll be having some welding done later in the year (MoT due Nov).

Things I have done on the 600 this week : drove back home to analyse it and fixed the failing rear number plate bulb. Contacts on the bulb weren't gripped properly.
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post #1253 of 1255 (permalink) Old 11-02-2017, 21:21 Thread Starter
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Hi,

Well I bought a 620 diesel (V/99) this week, and I too have poor parking brake efficiency, and when I prodded the bubbly bit at the end of the rear wheel arch I got a little hole...that grew a bit! Looks like I'll be having some welding done later in the year (MoT due Nov).

Things I have done on the 600 this week : drove back home to analyse it and fixed the failing rear number plate bulb. Contacts on the bulb weren't gripped properly.
All these fine old 600s are approaching twenty years old or more now. Even youngest 99 Reg ones are eighteen years old. Out of sight and mind behind the rear wheels, they usually get forgotten and rarely serviced even by most caring users. Over the miles and years they get covered in road filth and become corroded. Provided not too far gone, I have removed these calipers, part dismantled them and cleaned them thoroughly. I also fit new rear pads at the same time. They are not expensive. Then you have to "prime" the handbrake auto-adjusters. Not to be confused with the Handbrake Nut under the centre console. That merely adjusts the cable, not the Auto-adjusters.

I have described the process which I discovered by accident years ago soon after getting my first 620ti. It's somewhere if you search. In a Nutshell, after thorough cleaning of the Caliper's Pistons ~ I use brake fluid for this paying particular attention to the seals around the pistons which can be damaged if you are heavy handed. Best to avoid that. You can get a special socket to wind the Piston back into the body of the Caliper. I wind it in fully, it will then be too slack over the new Pads. Then using the Socket slowly wind the piston out until it just slides over the new pads without being too tight. Then I bleed the calipers in the usual way. My son has just done this to his 217,000 mile 620ti using a Draper Brake Bleeding Kit which can be bought for a tenner posted off ebay. Then start the engine and pump the brake pedal to take up any slack in the pads-caliper-disc interfaces.

Sadly now retired last year, my friendly MoT tester had a poor opinion of Rover Rear Disc Brake Handbrake operation ~ years of fails did that ~ However, I think he modified his opinion after testing my own and family members' cars with comments like... "They locked out John"... How about that ...

Regular TLC is not Rocket Science for the DIYer who is unafraid to pick up a spanner. Just time consuming but, it consumes less money reducing the need to by new stuff.

This is the Socket for winding Rear Brake Caliper Pistons. :~



Eight quid posted from ebay. Money well spent if you have a lot of MGs and Rovers to deal with.. Here a close up of it used on a nicely cleaned up Piston and Seal :~



Even if they are in this sort of neglected condition ~ both were on this otherwise very tidy car :~



Fortunately, new/remanufactured calipers for most of our cars are not expensive. I even got Fifteen pounds for each old one I returned to the ebay seller. That meant the Calipers cost less than forty quid each, plus return postage which was about a fiver with Parcel2go.

Here's the remanufactured items fitted.



"They locked out John." How about that ..

Apparently ... in a parallel universe MGJohn drives .........A.......

B>>M>>W ....

Arrrrrggghhhhh......... ......

Last edited by MGJohn; 11-02-2017 at 21:28.
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post #1254 of 1255 (permalink) Old 15-02-2017, 21:44
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Today on the 600 : changed oil & filter plus sump plug and washer (thanks DMGRS), inspected the front end and underside as removed engine undertray (c.15 bolts ?!) and fixed the failed interior blower.
Turns out it was in fact the blower motor, so took it out/apart and cleaned commutator and brushes with some fine wet and dry.
Reassembled aok and installed back in the car fine.
Thanks to this blokes' article http://hubnut.org/category/project-600/ for the tip about bringing the blower back to life, though I used petrol to clean everything up.

Still to do : antifreeze, cambelt and pump belt change plus drive belt, sort leaky rear window, clean interior, think about changing gearbox oil
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post #1255 of 1255 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 20:40
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Cambelt, tensioner, drivebelt and tensioner was changed a couple of weeks ago by garage whilst I was working away.
Gearbox oil now changed and unblocked drivers washer jet, that can't have worked for a while judging by all the mouldy filth in the pipe going to the nozzle.
Checked engine oil, all ok after 200+ miles. Checked I could undo all the wheel nuts with a spider, which I couldn't, but I can now. This will help should I get a puncture on the A1 in darkness.

Discovered that trackrod end will need replacing.

Next week : First long journey. At least it will be in daylight.
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