Happy days! This was the first time it had been driven for 2 years and all things considered it drives really nicely! Only to issues i have found is that the coolant is quite rusty coloured and sludgy so I'll give it a good flush out and refill with some red OAT anti freeze I've bought, it doesn't over heat or boil up or anything so i don't think it's anything to worry about.
And the I've also found the clutch slips a bit when the turbo boosts in, a lad at the garage said he'll fit a new one for £60 cash for me if i buy the clutch which i might take him up on. I'm guessing you can't manually adjust them at all? It seems to have a bit of transmission noise, like it's a bit louder than it should be, could that be the clutch? The box feels good and works like it should.
Other than that it's drives perfectly and goes rather well, it definitely feels like a car that's been nurtured all it's life.
Clutch should be fine at those miles. LACK of use can cause clutch slip in the following way. The Crank Arm on thye shaft in the Bell Housing which operates the Thrust Release bearing when you depress the cluytch pedal fully ,,,, can be slow to return and may not fully return. This is like resting your foot on the pedal so slipping the clutch.
So before laying out for a new clutch, try this. Get someone to help with their foot ready to depress the clutch pedal. Look at the Clutch Shaft Crank when the pedal is fully depressed and then released. The crank should return to the fully off position immediately. Any slow to return delay causes clip to slip. If this happens, spray the area where the clutch release crank enters the bell housing with some penetrating fluid. It may be covered with a rubber sleeve ... move that away when spraying the fluid. Then get someone to work the clutch pedal up and down until it moves freely and fully returns quickly. You mayy have to work the crank back and forth manually if it is badly stuck.
Corrosion on the shaft's bearings in the bell housing can seize the release crank so that it does not return at all and sticks in the fully released position. Had that happen but, it will free up and return to normal as described above. When back to normal, try to get some oil/grease worked into the bell housing on the crank. Even a little will help here. Park sideways on a slope so that the oil can creep along the shaft overnight into the bell housing by gravity.
If that does not work, then the clutch plate may be worn having been abused in previous ownership. These clutches should last over 200,000 miles when used normally. My son's 217,000 mile 620ti has still got its original and he did a lap of the Nurburgring in his with four on board with all the holiday luggage in the boot :~
Oh! That's really good advice and also would make sense as when i drove the car this afternoon it didn't slip as bad and the pedal is a little stiff so that would all point towards what you said. Thank you I'll get some WD40 on that tomorrow and will report back on my findings!
I've finally got round to fitting the replacement wastegate actuator I got from John. After removing the alternator to gain better access I discovered that I can only just reach the rod to arm retaining clip, and have no chance of actually removing the actuator from the turbo. So then on to plan 'B', removal of the exhasut manifold. I soaked the manifold to head/turbo nuts and studs with penetrating oil over a few days and have successfully removed them all without any problems. The manifold studs have all come out of the head and there's no apparent damage to the tapped holes in the head, I'll replace them with the stainless socket head ones and tightlock nuts on refitting.
The only problem I have now is that I can't seem to get the manifold out as there's not enough upwards movement to allow it to clear the turbo studs, which stayed firmly put on the inlet flange. I don't want to start pulling or levering the turbo away from the block or downwards too much due for fear of damaging the oil drain pipe. Just wondered if anyone else has had a similar problem and if so how did they get round it?
After a break and a bit more levering I've got the manifold off without damaging anything. It was then an easy job to remove the wastegate rod clip, with a nice big magnet nearby to catch it (good idea John). The wastegate arm is miles out of adjustment, with no preload whatsoever, in fact it's about a quarter hole out the other way. Strange thing is the rod isn't loose in the actuator where I'd have thought it would be if the spring had failed allowing the rod to loose preload tension, or is it just the diaphragm holding it? I can't get at the bottom wastegate bracket bolt from above so will have to remove the under shield and hopefully get it from below. Typically I'm doing the job with the car tight up against the wall in my front garage, so can't risk jacking her up, still I'm sure I might just be able to do it without having to push her out onto the drive.
I finally got the wastegate and bracket off after accessing the bottom bolt from underneath the car. The oil drain pipe had to be removed to get a spanner on the bolt head as the flange is tight up to it. Now I can fit the replacement, adjust it to the correct preload and put the manifold back on once the new stainless studs arrive. The new gasket(MG Rover labelled LKG10018EVA) has just arrived from Rimmers and I notice it is of the same woven metal construction as the original but doesn't have the "fire rings". After reading previous posts regarding this I'm a little bit concerned that it may not be up to the job, has anyone else fitted this new version and had any problems?
In my experience with working on a number of these 620ti over the years, the type you have without substantial fire rings will be OK. However, will not last as long as those that do have the fire rings.
With many heat-cool engine cycles they tend to disintegrate and then you hear the escaping Exhaust Gasses which often make a misleading "metallic" sound like the noisy "tappets" made by an old Diesel.
When working on these engines, after careful checking, I have re-used fire ring Ex-Manifold Gaskets without problems. I would not do that with the other type which usually fall apart when the Manifold is removed.
Thanks John, I did think of re-using the old gasket but unfortunately it stuck partly to the head and manifold on removal causing it to split in two at the centre stud hole. It does look ok and I suppose with the two remaining top and bottom stud holes in each half it would probably stay in place, however I'll fit the Rimmers supplied gasket when the new studs arrive and see how it goes.
Wonder why MG Rover/Xpart changed to an obviously inferior design of gasket, possibly a cost saving exercise or just a change of supplier maybe?
Well the job was going so well, awkward access aside. After setting the preload on the actuator rod I wanted to check the wastegate was opening ok before putting everything back in place. After fitting a length of hose to the actuator I was going to use a hand pump with a gauge and check it began to open at 7.25 psi. I first tested for leaks by blowing down it with my mouth, only to find it was leaking from where the rod enters the actuator! I can't understand how it's happened as I was very careful not to twist the rod when adjusting the preload and fitting it over the wastegate arm spindle. The best of it is I've just tried the same blow test on my old actuator and it's leak free, so it may be that with it refitted and the preload correctly set it will work ok. Failing that I'm back to trying to locate a suitably rated new actuator.
I've just spent a bit of time in the workshop making a test rig with a regulated 15psi air supply and an old pistol type tyre inflator fitted with a gauge of suitable range. With the replacement wastegate back off the car and connected to the rig on the bench at about 6 psi the rod just starts to move and as the pressure goes up the rod moves in proportion, right up to 12 psi where the pressure holds with no leaks! How very strange, I did notice that when fitted to the car the rod doesn't appear to be square coming out of the face of the actuator, but on trying to simulate that on the bench I can't replicate the leak. Think I'm just going to stick with the replacement actuator and test it on the car with the rig and hopefully it's ok. Either way at least I'm getting plenty of practice (and scraped skin) at removing the actuator with the turbo still on the car.
With regard to the new manifold gasket from Rimmers not having the fire rings, I gave them a ring and they confirmed that the gaskets they have no longer have them. Hopefully with the new studs, washers and nuts it should last a while.
That actuator was working well five years ago when removed from a T25 620ti Turbocharger which was smoking.
Contact "shirley" on ebay. They are gasket specialists and may be able to supply the T-Series Ex-Man Gaskets with the reinforced Fire Rings. They have helped me several times in the past with Rover/MG gaskets.
They currently list one for the T-Series but I cannot confirm if that one has the more desirable Fire Rings from the poor image on my LapTop.
Thanks for that advice John, not sure what went on with the actuator but it is indeed in good working order as it held 10 psi for at least half an hour. Whereas the original one off the car doesn't hold pressure over the same time.
I'll have a look at the gasket supplier you suggest and report back on what I find out.