Rover 800 Faulty Remote Controls / Immobiliser Problem and EKA Code! (VIDEO) - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-03-2016, 17:45 Thread Starter
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Rover 800 Faulty Remote Controls / Immobiliser Problem and EKA Code! (VIDEO)

Well like everything else ...'it had to happen at sometime I suppose!'

So the story so far, my remote control would not unlock the car, and therefore my key would not start the car as I could not deactivate the immobiliser. (even though I had started the car half a dozen times earlier that same day!)

bummer!


The Key Fob leds were lighting up, but no response from the car. The Key Fob would not resync (by pressing unlock button 4/5 times in quick succession).
I was able to buy & try new batteries in the remote as I was in a Supermarket car park at the time.

I also considered moving my car away from any phone masts, but could not see any on this occasion, and anyway the snow on the ground would have prevented me from pushing the car very far!


I was also able to get my spare keys delivered to me, and even tried new batteries in the spare remote control too.


I did not get the 4-digit EKA code with the car and had never bought one for this car as those I had bought for myself/others for other Rover(s)/ 800's in the past had all turned out to be a waste of time and money. (even when adding 1, to the 2nd and 4th digits of the code as has worked for some folk!)(radio codes purchased in the past had worked though)



I had also noticed the passenger door was locked solid, even from inside the car and would not unlock when using the key in the drivers door so maybe the switch in the drivers/passengers door is at fault or a sympton!
I could not remember if I had deadlocked the car with the remote by pressing it twice when locking the car like I normally do. I guess I had, but not sure.
(a locked solid passenger door on a coupe where the drivers door is an inch away from a wall would be a real nightmare!!!)


Also the (odyssey) car battery was new at xmas, and I fully charged it a few days ago after refitting the interior seats and trim panels last week. although maybe I sparkled the earth a little, as my battery earths under the rear seat mounting bolt!


so I gave up and called in the breakdown, between us we were quickly running out of ideas, so I thought maybe, just maybe I would try the code company again on this occasion. In the meantime whilst waiting for them to come back with the code, I had the car towed back home, as mucking about with the key and other stuff, we had probably already activated the 30 minute built-in timer that would prevent us using a correct code for the time being (..and that's if it would actually work)!


anyway got the code, and was surprised to find on this occasion it was a working one!!!

(...and passenger door opens once more)


For those of you who are unsure of how to enter the EKA code into your vehicle I have just made this video;



enjoy!!!

Don't forget to keep an eye on my videos, as my next project is my Bentley Style Rear LED Brake Light!!!

Last edited by Rover V6 Coupe; 10-03-2016 at 16:50. Reason: added video as promised.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-03-2016, 19:10
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Pleased the code worked - the most effective way of getting it is to good your Lucas 5AS alarm ECU read directly with a T4 or pscan.eu or similar.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 13:38 Thread Starter
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Pleased the code worked - the most effective way of getting it is to good your Lucas 5AS alarm ECU read directly with a T4 or pscan.eu or similar.
thanks, that's good to know.

maybe the breakdown man could have been able to extract the code info with his laptop, I am not sure if he hooked it up to the car or not, when it was on the drivers seat displaying a list of tests from the car/alarm system, or if this was just a list of on his screen of where to check.

wish I'd of asked if his could possibly extract a code, now. although he was aware I was phoning around to get one at the time.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 14:10
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Rover 800 does not have 5AS alarm system, and I did not see that pscan can read Rover 800 alarm system. Same goes to Rover 600.

I would be very surprised if breakdown man could read EKA code as this is specific protokol, for which I doubt they have means of reading.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 14:42 Thread Starter
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thanks he must not be able to read them. as he knew about the codes I am sure he would have got it for me if he could have.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 20:04
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Rover 800 does not have 5AS alarm system, and I did not see that pscan can read Rover 800 alarm system. Same goes to Rover 600.
OK, educate me, what have they got?
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 20:19
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Rover 600 has Honda alarm ECU, while Rover 800 have Lucas alarm ECU but not 5AS. 5AS unit have Rover 200/25 MG ZR, Rover 400/45 MG ZS and Rover 100.

To be able to program fob to Rover 600 and Rover 800 you need barcode with the fob.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-03-2016, 09:25 Thread Starter
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yes I can confirm that to program the remotes on my car you need the barcodes and remotes present including any that were programmed in previously if you wish to keep them programmed to the car. Up to 4 remotes can be programmed in but all need their barcodes. Which is why it is a waste of time buying spare remotes off ebay.

not sure about earlier 800's though...
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 06:09
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not sure about earlier 800's though...
Early 800 had Infra Red fobs and alarm ecu from Lucas while 600's alarm ecu was from Honda, also Infra red.
These fobs could not be programmed to the car, but ordered to be made from factory.
Shape of R800 fob was the same two buttons while R600 had single button fob.

Last edited by Roverlike; 12-03-2016 at 06:29.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 06:19
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Excellent video!

What is the situation with your fobs?
Did you manage to get them back to life, working as they should?

What kind of Bently style rear light you are after - the one on top up windscreen, or top up boot hood? What you will do with existing 3rd rear brake light?
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 10:03 Thread Starter
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Glad you enjoyed the video.

No joy yet with my fobs. but we've not been trying.
I have a couple of tricks up my sleeve that might get them working again, but not trying anything until we have our Astra back on the road in a few weeks!?, just in case things get worse!
Happy to just keep using the key until then.

for brake light see here;
Bentley Style LED Brake Light


update; to your comment below, sorry you saw this reply before I had posted it, I previewed my post, then began moving LED brake light to it's own thread. for some reason, when I pressed submit, it seemed it had been posted at the earlier time and you saw it earlier than I had intended, as I have moved LED elsewhere.

Last edited by Rover V6 Coupe; 12-03-2016 at 10:37.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 10:19
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glad you enjoyed the video

no joy yet with my fobs. but we've not been trying.
I have a couple of tricks up my sleeve that might get them working again, but not trying anything until we have the Astra back on the road in a few weeks!?, just in case things get worse. happy to just keep using the key until then.

I will hopefully be adding an LED strip right across the top inside my back window. My old rear windscreen shattered late last year (like the coupe ones do!)...
I am actually very interested why your fobs stopped working and I would like to get them back in working state. Willing to help as much I can to make it work again too.

Same style of rear braking light I have on my R600, that is the reason why I was asking. I forgott these things happen with these glued lights.

I am rather dissapointed you did not found suitable rear windscreen...

Last edited by Roverlike; 12-03-2016 at 10:34. Reason: removed obsolete part
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 10:58 Thread Starter
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I am actually very interested why your fobs stopped working and I would like to get them back in working state. Willing to help as much I can to make it work again too.

sorry my fobs do actually work (the way I said it came out wrong), it's the car that has lost the code, or just needs resync-ing.

If I can't resolve the problems, my brother can help me fix it or bypass/replace the system as he is good with that sort of stuff.

He once designed a device that could unlock any Moss alarm within 15 minutes, then once you knew the time it unlocked it at, he could narrow it down further and further until it could unlock it in seconds (this was long before those Casio remote control code grabbing watches)(only his did not need to be near the owner to catch a code to unlock a car, he could deactivate any car fitted with a Moss alarm). This was all long ago before he designed a multibillion scrolling codes alarm for one of the 80's Rover 216's we had, almost unbeatable.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 11:07
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sorry my fobs do actually work (the way I said it came out wrong), it's the car that has lost the code, or just needs resync-ing.

If I can't resolve the problems, my brother can help me fix it or bypass/replace the system as he is good with that sort of stuff.
No, you did not said any thing wrong, I just used same wording as you. I am aware that fobs are working, thats is why I used plural, because it would be odd that both fobs stopped working at same time. Problem is within alarm loosing sync or receiver in your car.
Anyhow I am interested in solving this problem. Too bad I am so far away
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Almost a month later and I still have not had any free time to try and resolve this, but with only 2 weeks to go until this years POL I thought I should try, something.

no solution on this car as yet, but I have noticed that if the immobiliser is active and I put either key in the ignition, then when I switch the ignition to position II (ignition lights on), the green LED flashes like mad on any/all remote/s within a couple of inches of the key! even though no buttons are being pressed at the time, so the remotes are able to sense when the ignition is on. I do not know what is meant by this though, whether any remote would do this? or if it should only do this if the remote is correct?or, incorrect? for the car! ...maybe it's a programming mode, I have resync'd 800 remotes in the past, just never quite worked out which combination of ignition position and button presses worked!
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This is interesting....
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Well with Pride of Longbridge out of the way I have now SORN'd (untaxed) my car. That way I can do some of the jobs it needs and maybe mess with the alarm a bit more too.

Yesterday I took the lock out of the drivers door (a bit tricky!) as the key has seemed a little funny when entering the code, but maybe that was just me because the key is being used so much now and I am not used to that!
The lock and internal microswitch all seem to be fully operational as far as I can tell/test without stripping it to bits, so maybe I will also have to examine the ones in the boot and passenger door too. Thinking about it now although the car had been started several times on the day the key fobs failed me, it was only on the last journey that (a) I picked up a passenger and so the passenger door had been used and (b) we used the boot at the supermarket, so my problems could indeed be with either of those.

Also my rear interior light flickers a little, and although I think that is just the conection at the light I will make sure to sort that first (as it's the easiet, for a start!)


The flashing green LED light on ignition as mentioned in my post above seems to be a feature on some Range Rovers that will let the car start when the keyfob is near the ignition, with an induction coil in the ignition activating an induction coil in the fob. Although it seems the Rover 800 has this same feature, it would appear it's not working in my case. I do wonder if my alarm has lost the 2 remote control codes it knows!? or if it is just the locks!? or an electrical problem!? hopefully I can find it, if not I might have to send my alarm unit away and get new remote keys, or replace it with a second hand system. but really I need to elimate the doors and boot first I think. The fun continues..... (and at least I was still able to use the car)
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 10:24 Thread Starter
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well it's been a while and I have been managing well with using the key and EKA code when needed.

All locks/sensors in the car seem to be A-OK.


Anyway I came across this post on the internet posted over a decade ago;

"Try this then - Drivers window down, key in the ignition, disconnect battery, turn ignition on, re-connect battery - once battery has been reconnected - you will either be ok or you may need to lock and unlock the drivers door then try to start."

This would seem to confirm the car does indeed make use of the flashing green led on the key fob which I mentioned earlier.

I have tried the method in varying ways, as I am not sure which position key should be in before disconnecting battery etc. (not that I can see how it would matter before a disconnect but maybe it does). and I am not sure what it means by you will be okay, as dhould I then press a button? or try to start the car first?

anyway after trying whichever way, on some occasions the car does just try to start for a split second on the turn of the key, other times it will do this also on a second turn of the key too. but that is it. open the door or try more turns and car is just dead as normal.

Maybe this confirms the car does in fact use the method and it's just a case of my motor did lose a brain cell which can not be recovered.

Anyway is there anybody out there that has come across this method before? better still is there anyone that has successfully used it? or can anyone explain the instructions clearer than those given?

Anyhelp appreciated thanks.


If all else fails, do I,

get a new key reprogrammed and keep the remote features?
or, have the immobiliser bypassed and just continue happily with the key? (and maybe install a better/Thatcham 1 alarm)

One more question, In the current condition, will it pass an MOT?
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 15-11-2016, 16:59 Thread Starter
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it seems nobody can bypass the system on an 825, although I can get a new Rover remote(s) programmed in (needs car), or aftermarket fobs programmed in (by sending off alarm bits.).

as to MOT, it seems the immobiliser problem is not a problem.


bit gutted at the minute though as it looks like the car has to go!
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 18-11-2016, 19:03
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I am not overly familiar with the 800 series but if yours is running the KV6 engine then the MEMS2J ECU
can be reworked. I designed a small processor based circuit which emulates the immobiliser code.

Free Fob Programming and Diagnostics for forum Supporters... see here.

Pektron SCU/BCU Technical Information and Common Faults... see here.

Discounted Pektron SCU/BCU Relay Replacement for forum Supporters... see here.
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