97 vintage MGF 1.8 MPi rescue - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #21 of 88 (permalink) Old 19-02-2014, 23:20 Thread Starter
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Today the only thing done was drive over to Northampton in the 623 to collect a complete soft with good rear window that was won on the dreaded bay for 26. Just need a bit of help to fit it some time.

I was a really nice day for a drive, shame no top to come down ....................... Oh well there will other drives/trips.
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post #22 of 88 (permalink) Old 20-02-2014, 12:26 Thread Starter
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Top Gaiters Cream #4 hand brake Gaiter fitted

As I think the interior is just too black and too dark have brought Cream leather Gaiters from Top gaiters to replace the original Black ones:-



Hand brake one fitted. Still have to get the central instrument console out to fit the gear lever one as yet. Have been thinking of getting a Cream #4 leather cover for the centre tunnel to follow on from where the leather arm rest finishes.

Last edited by plezier; 20-02-2014 at 21:25.
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post #23 of 88 (permalink) Old 20-02-2014, 18:32 Thread Starter
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The clouds lifted and drifted off and the sun came out so it was time to try and get on with some more. First order of business was to spray the belly pan with white stone chip protection paint.

Next was to get the top part of the Resonator box out. After seeing photos of another partly out it was obvious that i was being too gentle so with the aid of a lump of iron bar, about 20lbs in weight after it was levered out as far as I could get it with a pry bar the heavy bar was used from above to smash it out.

Back the the belly pan and time to spray the inside gloss black.

Now it was time to fit the bonnet release cable which of course runs down under the carpet on the drivers side. once the carpet was pried loose from the door edge the full extent of the wet was seen ............................... Oh deary me. Only one thing for it seats and carpet etc out and that was when we hit the first big snag .............................................. The rear seat bolt that goes into the central tunnel would not budge. As you cannot see the other side of the bolt spraying it was penetrating fluid is not possible. So first the leather cover of the T-Bar was undone as the release cable goes under this. The the passenger seat was tried. All for torx bolts came undone ..................... result ..................... back to the drivers side and the front bolts came out and the sill edge one also just leaving the tunnel bolt stuck fast. Tried all the ratchets then decided that as it has to come out time to break out the compressor and the air impact gun.

It took a while letting the gun hammer it to undo then tighten it and eventually I got a bit of movement. once I got a few threads out the bolt was sprayed then tightened up and then undone. Did this a couple of time then suddenly the air gun screamed as it spun the bolt up. Switching to undo the bolt whizzed out.

So now she has no seats,carpets or sound insulation but I did get the bonnet release cable threaded through and connected up s we now have a working bonnet release ................................... yeah!

Looks like I will need to get some new insulation as some of it has been wet for many years from the look of it. Once the carpets dry I will try cleaning them and see how they come up.

Oh yes whilst crawling under the car I found that the under floor pipes are in worse condition that i first though so these are going to have to be replaced sooner rather than later........................................ not exactly what I wanted right now.
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post #24 of 88 (permalink) Old 21-02-2014, 09:19 Thread Starter
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This is what was found under teh carpets and sound insulation ... Passenger side :-







The rust has gotten a good hold with heavy blistering.

Drivers side:-







This was the one that gave all the trouble getting the seat mounting bolt out yet it does not look that rusted???


This wet problem must have been here fro many years to get into this state so it looks like I have my work cut out here it seems.
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post #25 of 88 (permalink) Old 21-02-2014, 18:37 Thread Starter
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Unhappy

Thought the floor was bad but when it came to cleanign and treating the rear part by the bulkhead too much water was coming out of the sound insulation so I removed it and found this:-







Am beginning to wonder what on earth have I do to deserve this???????

Just how long has this been leaking to cause this much rust damage.
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post #26 of 88 (permalink) Old 23-02-2014, 07:05
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Does any of it need welding or is it all surface rust. I would also re-tap all bolt holes to clean up the threads
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post #27 of 88 (permalink) Old 23-02-2014, 08:45 Thread Starter
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I got it out yesterday and it's only the edge and not where it sits on the seal membrane so with a good cleaning and rust kill treatment we should be able to save it. The edge is crumbling in places so I just keep wondering how long had is been wet and sitting on wet insulation.

I also wonder how could someone just let it stay this wet. The posh smelly thing in the heater vent is now explained.. It was there to hide the damp smell and once again I just cannot understand the thought and reasoning behind that way of thinking. Was the water ingress just going to magically go away and seal itself ????

So what I want to know now just who turned the sun off today and put the fan on speed 4 ...Huh?

Yesterday was nice in the sun working around the car but today is damned cold in that wind. No sun visible just drab grey cloud .................... not good.

We need to get out there to finish bleeding the brakes and once that is done I need to get the passenger door card off again to replace the screw in the door handle that came out. A spot of Loctie should hold it in place methinks. Then it's wire brush the bit of floor that has not been done and treated and start to spray the foot wells over the rust treatment so will have to go into town to get some more aerosol paint to do this.

It will have to go to the re-test with no carpets in as I am waiting to hear about some replacement insulation to replace the sodden and degraded stuff was taken out.

Have also got the investigate as to if i can salvage the rear alloys. There is virtually no paint left inside the back of them. The fronts had been re-furbed at some point. Right now cannot get them over to City Powder Coating to get hem done and have been wondering if it might be easier to just buy a couple of decent ones with tyres already on ...................................... HMMMM
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post #28 of 88 (permalink) Old 24-02-2014, 08:03 Thread Starter
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Well after cleaning off the inside rim of one of the alloys have decided it's a no go situation. They will need proper stripping and refurbishment as any paint I put on will no doubt just lift off in a while due to the corrosion on the alloy beneath it.

So some suitable wheels will be sort out.

Meanwhile managed to swop the soft top over for the one purchased off e-bay for 26. It cost more as had to drive over to Northampton to collect it but we now have a rear window that one can see through ........................ yeah! . Bit of a bugger to swop over on ones own though.

The bulk head is painted black, it's all that I had to hand and fitted for now. Waiting on some nice stainless bolts and washers. The brakes are bled and she is on her wheels. Got to fit the air filter, or an air filter, re-fit engine cover adjust tyre pressures, swopped wheels front to rear as the VVC's tracking is out it seems or it could be the suspension too low but inner edge was starting to wear on the fronts so put them on the rear as it has 215/40R16's all round, then hopefully can get it up the hill for a re-test .......................... fingers crossed.
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post #29 of 88 (permalink) Old 24-02-2014, 21:13 Thread Starter
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Here are the new copper brake lines fitted:-



MOT retest booked for tomorrow (Tuesday) afternoon.

Due to insulation still drying out it will go with no carpets fitted. I will clean the carpets whilst they are out and see how they come up. Some of the insulation will need replacing and awaiting on hearing about some decent condition insulation.
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post #30 of 88 (permalink) Old 25-02-2014, 17:00 Thread Starter
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MOT Passed

Well she has passed her MOT now we just have to finish drying her our and get the interior re-installed,........................... oh yes adjust the soft top and windows.
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post #31 of 88 (permalink) Old 26-02-2014, 20:15 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimeTime View Post
Are you doing all the work yourself???
Ended up only the welding and making the brake lines being outsourced.

Next is getting the interior back together and getting the new stainless coolant pipes fitted along with new coolant and and engine oil and filter change.
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post #32 of 88 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 09:09 Thread Starter
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New temp sender/sensor for gauge fitted

The temp gauge has been playing up, worked most of the time until one accelerated briskly or hard then the needled dived to the bottom cold position. how long it sulked down there was variable. Some times only a short time before fluctuating then working as normal for a while otehr times it was days before waking up.


This of course was of no use like this. Asking questions most suggested bleeding the system as the head gasket had just been changed but bleeding it showed no air coming out and after doing so three times no improvement.

test the gauge by shorting the plug showed the gauge worked fine and as shorting the plug made the needle move it seemed that te wiring was also fine. Finally someone over on the register said they had the same problem and replacing the sender fixed it.

So a new one was ordered which arrived Friday morning and so the fiddly job of fitting the new one was undertaken. Running up the engine on the drive showed the needle now moving as it should and a test drive into town with some hard acceleration on the way back showed the problem appears to be solved.

Once the fog burns off this morning will wash the MGF and clean the soft top with the kit I bought to do the VVC's with. This recently acquired Mk2 hood has not got much green growth on it so a clean with the Autogylm kit should bring it up nicely.

Hmmmm am thinking of calling this Mpi "Blue 33" as after all that is the reg number and colour
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post #33 of 88 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 09:40 Thread Starter
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Mk2 soft top

Hmmm lookign at this despite adjusting the mounting yesterday the front of the top does not meet teh screen top properly on the drivers side still:-



Drivers side



Passenger side

So decided to take another look at teh latching adjustment.

The drivers side was would right up tight and on closer inspection it was clear than the catches were not latching into the hooks as they should so slacking off the adjusting tension has fixed this .................................... it seems as now the bar of the latch actually locks into the hook on the windscreen frame.

Driving her later will tell if thsi helps or not.
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post #34 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-03-2014, 09:18 Thread Starter
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Sunday went the MG/Triumph spares event at Stoneleigh. Got a replacement aerial for the one I broke the other day only just caught it with my elbow and it snapped right off.

Alos picked up this Cream/Black steerign wheel which will suit "Blue 33's" interior rather well methinks:-



Just got the get the time to fit it now. This came from Darren at MGFNTFBITZ. If I could have afforded it a later Mk2 air bag would have been nice as they have the nice MG badge on them unlike the earlier rather bland black embossed one like mine has.
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post #35 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-03-2014, 17:35 Thread Starter
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Here it is fitted:-







Colour matches just like it is supposed too. The cabin is becoming less dark and more enlightened :thumbsu:
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post #36 of 88 (permalink) Old 05-03-2014, 18:47 Thread Starter
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Finally got the cream gear lever gaiter fitted:-



Looks much ............................. much better.

Question now is how much more to change to Cream?

Have seen photos of an "F" with the scalloped section above the passenger air bag blank done in Cream and it looked good with the front of the instrument nacelle also done in Cream.
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post #37 of 88 (permalink) Old 05-03-2014, 19:58
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Subscribed to the thread. Great project.

Those previous brake pipes look scary. The sheer rust and corrosion. I would be scared to drive with those. Good to see you got brand new copper ones. Just had new ones myself put on.
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post #38 of 88 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 10:33 Thread Starter
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Thank you ..................

I will be carefully checking those same brake lines/pipes on the VVC later when doing the brakes on that one. Now I know what can be lurking up there.

Cannot say I am looking forwards to removing another Resonator box but it will have to be done.
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post #39 of 88 (permalink) Old 07-03-2014, 10:43 Thread Starter
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New Wooden gear knob

This morning in the post this new wooden gear knob arrived:-











Unlike a lot on the dreaded bay this is a real wood one with plastic insert. Meant really for the older B's and Midgets it has an 8mm hole which I opened up to 9mm before lubing and threading onto the F's gear lever. Also deepened the hole in the knob so it screws right down to the larger plain shank. Installed it looks like this:-







The MG badge is supplied lose to once it's screwed right down it can be stuck onto the metal disc in the top so it's in the correct lace and not skewed to one side.

I am well pleased as it's just a bit shorter and feels better in my hand than the overly large one that was standard.
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post #40 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-03-2014, 23:53
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Great work plezier, it's fantastic to see another F being given a new lease of life - too many are scrapped for simple things these days

One worthwhile and free mod is to chop a few cm off of the gearstick, I took quite a bit off mine as they're far too tall as standard imo.

Looking forward to more updates on your pair of Fs.
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