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post #41 of 73 (permalink) Old 19-02-2016, 19:59 Thread Starter
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This afternoon I got after much fighting both upper ball joints replaced on the front hubs, cleaned up and repainted the lower wish bones, fitted poly bushes to the wishbones and refitted them to the front subframe. I also replaced the front rubber subframe mounts with solid ones.

I also started work on the bracket to but the lower suspension mount into double shear, just need to get some 25mm wide steel bar to finish the fabrication.





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post #42 of 73 (permalink) Old 26-02-2016, 09:34 Thread Starter
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Well, at long last I have paid Hi Spec for the 284x22 disc conversion with RS114-4 calipers. But now they tell me it could be upto 28 days before I get them. I placed the initial request for quote and diagrams 14/1 at autosport - the quality of their customer service certainly takes a lot to be desired, I have constantly had to chase them when they have told me they would get back to me.
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post #43 of 73 (permalink) Old 26-02-2016, 18:00 Thread Starter
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Front droplinks arrived yesterday from mgfmania so finished reassembling the front subframe and refitted it. Sat the car back on it's front wheels for the first time in 4 months. Nearly at the point where I can drop the rear subframe - I've removed all but one of the rear mounting bolts on each side but I have a feeling the inner bolts on the front mounts will both shear .



Might have to lower the front coilovers , 4x4 look going on.

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post #44 of 73 (permalink) Old 26-02-2016, 18:51
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Originally Posted by flyingbanana View Post
Well, at long last I have paid Hi Spec for the 284x22 disc conversion with RS114-4 calipers. But now they tell me it could be upto 28 days before I get them. I placed the initial request for quote and diagrams 14/1 at autosport - the quality of their customer service certainly takes a lot to be desired, I have constantly had to chase them when they have told me they would get back to me.
I had this with Hi-Spec with my R126-6 kit, meant to be 2 weeks which turned into 4 then to 5 weeks with no contact saying they were delayed had to give phoning them. When they did turn up the hoses were missing and so were some of the disc to bell bolts
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post #45 of 73 (permalink) Old 28-02-2016, 09:06 Thread Starter
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Well engine came out yesterday - only sheared one bolt O/S outer front subrame one, think I will drill it out and the weld a nut to a bit of steel and weld it in.

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post #46 of 73 (permalink) Old 28-02-2016, 21:23 Thread Starter
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Engine/gearbox removed from subframe - what a ball ache seized bolts and who puts steel bolts into alloy without any sort of anti seize compound? Just glad I using the metro engine mount. Subframe then stripped, will need to order 2 more upper ball joints due to thread damage and I had to cut the rod end off the long link arm on one side - can you get replacement ones?
Cleaned up the rust and left it with rust killer painted on it.

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post #47 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 21:13 Thread Starter
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Dropped the engine into the subframe yesterday.





Then noticed the difference between the front of the engine mount arm and gearbox arm, so decided to offer up the compliance bush. It wouldn't fit the engine mount arm, so trimmed it down,still wasn't happy so decided to modify the RHS compliance bush to be the same as LHS one fitting under the asm.





Also had workshops drill out the threads on the top arms to 12mm in their drill press after nearly breaking my wrist doing the front ones. I cleaned the rust up today and resprayed them pantone green as that was the colour off my old metro race car the engine has come from.





Next task - fit the polybush kit for the rear. How the hell do you get the bushes out of 13yr old arms?
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post #48 of 73 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 17:27 Thread Starter
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Well whilst the roller shutter doors on the motor club were having some work done and I had to be there I thought it would be rude not to do some work on the race car. Got the second short rear tie rod stripped apart and the poly bush fitted 😊, so that's both of them done. I then attacked one of the compliance bushes and managed to get the old rubber bush out and the poly bush fitted in it 😀.



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post #49 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 18:09 Thread Starter
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Rear short tie bar stripped apart rubber bushes replaced with polyurethane ones and compliance bushes rubber bushes replaced with polyurethane ones and the the whole lot cleaned up and resprayed.

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post #50 of 73 (permalink) Old 13-03-2016, 18:49 Thread Starter
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Amongst other things I made the template for the Wilwood 2 pot caliper 280mm rear disc conversion - next stop will be station workshops, where they will hopefully reproduce two new brackets for me.









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post #51 of 73 (permalink) Old 22-03-2016, 17:31
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Nice looking brakes!
Any idea what power you're getting from the engine?
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post #52 of 73 (permalink) Old 24-03-2016, 11:07 Thread Starter
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Nice looking brakes!
Any idea what power you're getting from the engine?
It currently has a z&f (kmaps) zr 160 race map on it - 165?
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post #53 of 73 (permalink) Old 24-03-2016, 18:55
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It currently has a z&f (kmaps) zr 160 race map on it - 165?
Will that be enough to be competitive? I took my F VVC to a couple of track days but we were pretty much the slowest car on the track.
Strangely I had the original tiny discs on the front at the time but braking for the hairpin was the one place I caught up a little.
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post #54 of 73 (permalink) Old 28-03-2016, 20:01 Thread Starter
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So, I discovered when swapping over the fuel pipes on the inlet manifold, that the mounting points for the return pipe are different on plastic ones and VVC. So had to break the bracket from the plastic return pipe and use the VVC one as a template and glue it back on in the right place.



Changed the cambelts today, then welded up the end of the engine mount arm after I cut the end off to match the gearbox one. Fitted the N/S hub and fitted the OS radius arm onto the compliance bush, I haven't refitted the other hub as it will make my life easier to remove the sump the fit the baffle plate.



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post #55 of 73 (permalink) Old 28-03-2016, 21:54
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Will that be enough to be competitive? I took my F VVC to a couple of track days but we were pretty much the slowest car on the track.
Strangely I had the original tiny discs on the front at the time but braking for the hairpin was the one place I caught up a little.
What cars was you on the track with? I've never been passed on track with my ZR by any hot hatches (ST150's, Clio 182's, EP3 Type R's etc)
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post #56 of 73 (permalink) Old 28-03-2016, 22:13
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What cars was you on the track with? I've never been passed on track with my ZR by any hot hatches (ST150's, Clio 182's, EP3 Type R's etc)
A mixture of BMW's, kit cars Hondas etc and a few race prepared cars. In the corners I can keep up with most of them but the race track (Kirkiston) is basically two long straights with a few corners inbetween so not ideal for a VVC which is well past its best. I kept hoping for a MX5 or similar so I could have a race but no joy.
I came to the conclusion I needed either half the weight or twice the power.
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post #57 of 73 (permalink) Old 28-03-2016, 22:22
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A mixture of BMW's, kit cars Hondas etc and a few race prepared cars. In the corners I can keep up with most of them but the race track (Kirkiston) is basically two long straights with a few corners inbetween so not ideal for a VVC which is well past its best. I kept hoping for a MX5 or similar so I could have a race but no joy.
I came to the conclusion I needed either half the weight or twice the power.
I will agree with that, the engine in standard from on the high speed straights is very under powered and most things with pass. I was using a MK5 Escort RS2000 before the ZR with a standard engine (rated at 150bhp) and that easily would out drag the 160. I've gone the Piper 285 cam kit/throttle bodies route to even it out a bit now.
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post #58 of 73 (permalink) Old 29-03-2016, 06:55 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Alibro View Post
Will that be enough to be competitive? I took my F VVC to a couple of track days but we were pretty much the slowest car on the track.
Strangely I had the original tiny discs on the front at the time but braking for the hairpin was the one place I caught up a little.
Should be, it will hopefully be lighter than the standard 1095 kg. I'm also running a zr 160 gearbox which is better for track use than the vvc one, and piper manifold.
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post #59 of 73 (permalink) Old 29-03-2016, 13:17
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Originally Posted by JOHNDQ View Post
I will agree with that, the engine in standard from on the high speed straights is very under powered and most things with pass. I was using a MK5 Escort RS2000 before the ZR with a standard engine (rated at 150bhp) and that easily would out drag the 160. I've gone the Piper 285 cam kit/throttle bodies route to even it out a bit now.
If your race track is twisty it will be suburb fun and if the car is it lightened should be quick enough on the straights. I have to say I am jealous as I would love to do something similar but there is only one race track for cars in Northern Ireland and it isn't very good.
Keep up the good work.
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post #60 of 73 (permalink) Old 29-03-2016, 16:03
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If your race track is twisty it will be suburb fun and if the car is it lightened should be quick enough on the straights. I have to say I am jealous as I would love to do something similar but there is only one race track for cars in Northern Ireland and it isn't very good.
Keep up the good work.
I normally go to Bedford Autodrome it only has the back straight so the ZR goes ok there
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