MGF 75th Anniversary Edition # 1864 - Page 2 - MG-Rover.org Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 4 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
post #21 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-04-2015, 22:33
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Car: Rover 25
Posts: 113
A nice project, I'll keep an eye on this one. Some serious dedication given the state of the car. Good work and good luck making the deadline.
Black.Ghost is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 55 (permalink) Old 03-04-2015, 01:54 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
Thank you I am hopeful she will turn out well.

Thank you I am hopeful she will turn out well.

As some might have noticed teh inlet manifold was rather worse of wear and from being malhandled. The over heating didn't do it many favours either I gather! So after looking around and comparing prices a TF135 Alloy manifold complete was bought. Of course this raises a few issues such as plenium volume, the need for the support bracket, and port mismatch from manifold to head on the 118 bhp MPi.







Now I knew that this mismatch was a issue when using the TF 135 or VVC manifold and plenium and also that one loses a bit of torque when doing so. We hope toa ddress this issue at a later date but for now surely a bit of chamfering would help smooth or at least disrupt the flow a bit less if the sharp edge and step was reduced or removed. I am not about to start openign up inlet ports but a simple chamfer to help a little that I can manage

Well it's done .................................. mostly with an hand scraper. Although I did get the Dremel out to smooth it off a bit only to find it's decided to short out and burn out inside :cry: and have harly used it really. Oh well here is what they look like:-







Nothing major but it should at least reduce the large sharp step from manifold to head. Whilst I was down in there thought might as well remove the flywheel closure plate:-







Oh dear it would appear to have gotten a trifle warm as most of the paint has been cooked off it. Luckily I have a spare which I have cleaned off and repainted already. Went to see how the flywheel locking tool fitted and was annoyed to discover using it means removing the starter motor ...................................... :roll: Oh Pooh! I did however fit the flow restrictor in the thermostat housing and cleaned the housing and treated the O rings with a spot of silicon spray and slide it into place:-



and offered up the engine coolant rail and put the two bolts in for now. The silicon makes it so much easier to slide this assembly into place over the O ring. Next for the engine is clean the lower inlet manifold and swap the injectors over. Fit the sensors to the plenium and get the lower cam belt cover off to examine the water pump etc.

Still have the manifold support bracket to get and a replacement rad fan that works but those can wait until after Easter. Have the front hubs to finish painting then fit the new top ball joints. Once the hubs are on the sub frame and wishbone the hub splines can be fitted and the nuts done up ready for the front brakes when they arrive next week.

It feels good to be refitting parts and fitting new parts is a better feeling still rather than dismantling old worn and knackered stuff.

Last edited by plezier; 03-04-2015 at 09:06.
plezier is offline  
post #23 of 55 (permalink) Old 03-04-2015, 12:47 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
Well got the O/S /F hub fitted:-







Checking photos of when I fitted new shocks to "Blue" I see that there are extra cup washers on her and this brings the shock bottom bush just that bit further forwards. I wonder if muppet whom fitted these new shocks lost or forgot these and just left them out???

By the way that tower clamp is a temp one. The ones for her are hardening off after painting.
plezier is offline  
 
post #24 of 55 (permalink) Old 03-04-2015, 17:11 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
Doubt that I can get away to come to Brooklands after all it's not just down the road from here. It's about a 5 hour drive. Anyway spent some damp time mocking up the Inlet manifold to figure out the connections:-







Note that I got the valve on back to front ................. Doh!



Got to have a closer look at the plastic one and check the wiring and plugs as of course the TF wiring loom is different so will probably have to use the original fuel rail for the wiring.
plezier is offline  
post #25 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-04-2015, 08:38
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Car: MGF VVC 75th Anniversary, Audi A4 2.0TFSI Quattro
Posts: 55
I thought my project was big but its nothing like yours. well done for keeping the car alive.
75thAniv is offline  
post #26 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-04-2015, 17:55 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
Thank you it's a bigger project that was thought or intended originally.

Now the oil filter look fairly new and the oil appears quite clean:-







this car is sure full of contridictions. Am not happy about the appearance of the water pump:-







Looks rather rusty to me.

So it looks like will have to replace the cam belt etc that's assuming that I can get the engine mount bolts undone which at the moment cannot budge them.
plezier is offline  
post #27 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 19:13 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
Well that was an interesting afternoon ................................ managed to get the two 18mm headed bolts on the engine mount undone so the cam belt could be removed and the water pump out. The pump does not look that old but it's got that rusty coloured crud on it:-









Have no idea what make nor what these markings mean but it's out so might as well get a new one and fit. The belt looks pretty new too as does the tensioner... Talk about confusing. Just like the rear pads:-







Them seem to be pretty new too as do the discs.

Anyway I got the Lower radius arms that will be using all painted up now ready for the new bushes:-





Got the N/S compliance tie bar nut moving but not the O/S as yet. Think I need more height under her so will have to get some wheel n the front and raise the rear more then hopefully can swing the tools to get that compliance nut moving. Also need to move the supports so can get at the eye bolts on the tie bars so they can be rebushed too.

Noticed some bad news while laying down by the rear hub ........................... the drivers sill is all bubbling. Looks like it will have to be cut out and repaired and was no banking on that. Have not poked it to see how bad it is would rather not have a ragged hole open while working around the rear wheel area and susenpsion. Guess I need to speak to Stewart about the repair and I know he is very busy right now ............................. "Sniff"

This means it's very unlikely that we can get her MOT'd in time for the Drive your Classic day at Burleigh house in 3 weeks.......................... "Sigh!!!"

Last edited by plezier; 11-04-2015 at 19:42.
plezier is offline  
post #28 of 55 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 20:17 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
This weekend has been sorting coolant hoses and pipes. Have fitted a new thermostat, for now will use the std one but later am going to convert to PRT, refitted the engine coolant rail. Fitted a replacement engine outlet hose and return hose although neither are connected to the under floor coolant rails.

The alloy lower manifold has been drilled and tapped to accept the "Green" Inlet Temp sensor and the coils has been refitted:-







The rear calipers have been cleaned and painted ready for refitting:-





Halfords Red to compliment the new AP Racing 2 posts on the front:-







New 5mm thick alloy spacers of the correct PCD.





The calipers came from MG Mania along with some upgraded mounting bolts. The discs are APEC which have been painted to keep them looking nice and the rust at bay. The rear caliper carriers have also been cleaned and painted:-



We will be getting new mounting bolts, sliders, and bleed nipples as well as new banjo bolts for them.

She also has a new water pump, cam belt and tensioner fitted and now has her belt covers refitted and aslo her alternator belt which has been tensioned:-



So we are coming along if slowly.

Have to undo the radius are sub frame bolts and check the inner sub frame ends of the Track Control Arms then we can order the bushes and get new bolts and compliance washers. Am going to order from Durflex ......................... yes I know not as hard as Polybush but I don't want a harsh ride just a true one.

Still to get are:-

Radiator fan
Rear shocks
Rear discs and pads (the O/S/R is badly pitted and slightly warped)
Fuel Filter
Hydolastic fluid

Hope to have her running again in a few days and brakes all working by next Friday and hopefully with working suspension by Tuesday 21st.
plezier is offline  
post #29 of 55 (permalink) Old 13-04-2015, 21:18 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
Picked up a fuel filter and ordered 4L of Hydrolastic fluid from the local motor factors. Fuel filter is fitted so connected the battery to check fro leaks and she seems sound and she will turn over but the SRS light is on. Thought is was the plug under the seat but it seems we have no horns so the slip ring is suspect.

So have bought another from a vendor on ebay which should sort it out. Have also ordered the bushes for the rear suspension ............................. bought the rear set from Duraflex and they should arrive on Wednesday hopefully so need to get into town to see about some new H/T bolts and some new banjo bolts for the calipers. Meanwhile the expansion tank is soakng in a washing powder soloution to try and get it clean. While not bad it was grubbay and as most of the cooling system is new might as well start with a clean expansion bottle.

So tomorrow it's fit the lower inlet manifold, actaully bolt it into place as right not it's just sitting on the studs with one nut retaining it in place, fit the clips to the radiator hoses. Then remove the lower radius arms from the sub frame ready to fit the new bushes.
plezier is offline  
post #30 of 55 (permalink) Old 16-04-2015, 01:29 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
Well it's done ................................................ although getting those two lower nuts onto the studs for the manifold was a real PITA. Got everything plugged back in and after much deliberation decided that the vacuum line to the ECU would have to connect to the second vacumm outlet on the plenum that was capped off on the TF 135 one although the original black hose was too large. Hmm so a length of clear tubing was cut and fitted and this fits the spigot on the plenum so we have no leak.

However when cranked over no start .....................................Hmmmmm no even attempting to fire. Pull the plugs and they are wet so we have fuel check for spark and it's very weak to non existant. Try again still nothing so pull plugs again and get out compression tester and check all cylinders. #4 is about 10 psi down on the others but still showing 160 psi (about 11 bar) so that's not the problem. Search the forums and the web and try various things but still no joy. Now we KNOW that she ran ok:-



sounds quite good even. So this morning it was back on the hunt for the problem .............................................. so it was check every connection and multiplug that culd be reached even those not touched before. Had the H/T lead from the coil resting on the cam cover to check for sparks and today there was none but we had a weak spark before .................................... Hmmmmmmm?????

So wiggle the CPS .......................... nada ................................. onto the coil connection and voila we have a spark ...................... then it stopped so have another go at it and voila a nice fat spark like there shouod be. It would seem that we have a bad connection here that needs further looking at but with a spark the lead was reconnected to the cap and she fired up.

Arghhhhhhhhhhhhhh she sounds like aknackered diesel:-



It would appear that at least one of the tappets had decided to quit working. Running it for some time whilst the coolant was bled again made no difference that tappet is stubbornly refusing the fill with oil ........................................ so it would seem that the new cam belt has to come off again so the cam ladder can be removed to change the offending tappet. Not best pleased and it now means that the body shop will have to be cancelled as there is no way to get this all done now in time.

In the meantime a small package arrived this morning containing new slider pins for a rear brake carrier which were duely fitted:-



Now we know they fit a second pack has been ordered. Could find none listed except on Rimmers for the MGF and they are rather pricey. These came from an ebay vendor and are listed for the early Rover 800. Seemed daft not the replace these as well whilst overhauling the braking system.

If by some miracle I manage to get this tappet sorted as well as rebush the rear suspension and rebuild the rear brakes including getting and fitting new discs and pads along with the new bolts needed then bleed the brakes. Locate and fit rear shocks and get the suspension filled and pumped up to the correct ride height there is still the rot in the sill to be cut out and a plate welded in then finished so it's not noticable then it can go to the body shop to have the paint repaired on the rear quarter.................................. all this in 4 days ?????????????? I cannot see it happening now!

Last edited by plezier; 20-04-2015 at 09:31.
plezier is offline  
post #31 of 55 (permalink) Old 16-04-2015, 18:34 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
Oh dear it seems my Duraflex bushes will not be here until next week. It seems that asking for S/S inserts is the problem that is holding up the order.

On a lighter note and more pleasing is the fact that I don't actually need to buy another radiator fan as this afternoon I managed to get the broken stud out of the original so can use it and then I decided to try the one off the VVC donor which felt a little stiff. Once it kicked in the fan was as free as the other so as the new radiator has studs to mount two fans that is just what I did:-



Due to the extra load have increased the fuse from 15 amp to 20 amp but thinking on it some more it might be as well to go to 25 amp. Need to check with someone more familiar with such upgrades first though................................ Hmmm wonder if an uprated relay is available?????

Now yesterday once the engine fired up it sounded dreadful with a tappet obviously not working ........................ clack .............. clack it was going. Today I fired her up and it was the same but left her running to check the radiator fans and re-bleed the system and after a while she suddenly got quiet and ran properly.

Went to start her this evening to record how she is running and she is tapping again. Not as bad as before but tapping no less:-



Will continue to monitor it and see how it does.

Last edited by plezier; 20-04-2015 at 09:42.
plezier is offline  
post #32 of 55 (permalink) Old 19-04-2015, 21:59 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
First thing was to route the S/S braided front brake hoses so they are safe and secure:-







I believe this is the neatest solution that I have found to date so will copy it and do the same to "Elsie" . Then it was onto wire brushing the loose paint and rust on the rear subframe then treat so it can be painted tomorrow.
plezier is offline  
post #33 of 55 (permalink) Old 19-04-2015, 22:11 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
They say tomorrow never comes!!!!

Well here it did .................................... although it was chilly and very windy with a spot of rain thrown in for good measure .........................

Well in a lull when the sun was actually showing it's face it was coat on and out to undercoat the treated hubs and sub frame. As the aim was to get it done as quickly as possible no photos were taken. Retreating indoors for a cuppa to allow the undercoat to dry then after a while in another break it was out to spray some top coat on. Yellow for the hubs ................................ of course. I was even thinking of buying another tin of Hammerite Smooth in Yellow but that can wait until much later ........................... time is the enemy right now.

So an aerosol can was used. The subframe needs to be ALL yellow if that is the colour and as we don't have the time, access, or the paint right now the subframe was done in Satin Black:-









The rust was only surface but stopping it going further is always a good move . The hubs especially will need another coat before an application of lacquer and the sub frame will get another coat. I did breifly consider underseal.

My intention is to get the rear sub frame from the Donor VVC stripped then blasted so it can be properly painted then rebuilt and then swapped into one of the F's and then that sub frame can be treated the same. Likewise the front sub frame from the 75th will be stripped and painted then rebuilt and swapped into "Elsie"....................................... all part of the ongoing restoration.

Last edited by plezier; 25-09-2016 at 09:24.
plezier is offline  
post #34 of 55 (permalink) Old 23-04-2015, 02:51 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
Well the bushes eventually arrived, was promised them for last Saturday so they turn up the Wednesday after , and am sorry to say that I am not impressed. Firstly my order was for Yellow bushes with Stainless ferrules, tubes, spacers, it seems these were the problem. Don't know why people seem afraid of machining stainless but they are :-? looking at the tube ends it appears that the tooling was blunt the finish is like a ploughed field and rough as a badgers backside. The finish in the bores is also not good and in the days of carbide U drills it seems these were done with a good old twist drill which wandered. I had to skim the ends on one tie rod eye bush to get it into the bracket on the subframe so chucked in the the small lathe and the hole is not concentric with the tubes outside ................................. Hmmmmm



A tie rod eye bush ................................................. remember these are YELLOW!!!!! the chap at Durflex assures me that these are Yellow despite their own web site showing they are Orange as the Yellow IS yellow on their web page.



Not the poor finish to the tubes end .................................................. ... Now these are the complaince bushes:-



Hmmm they don't look like any other complaince bush that I have seen on an F ???????????????? For compaision these are Polybush ones:-



that I fitted to "Elsie" for her MOT last September.



The tubes are one piece that passes through both bushes unlike the Duraflex which have short tubes through each bush. I am wondering if they have trrouble drilling through a length of Stainless the required length????? :-? if so this calls the skill of their machinist and their choice of tooling into question. Simple tube spacers like this would be 2nd year apperentice work and can be achieved on a centre lathe. Using a capstan would make the job even easier and with modern CNC machines a doddle and yes I have many years experience running and setting such machines. Now these are the Duraflex bushes fitted:-





I was worried that the tie bar nut would not have enough thread to grip on but it seems one has to wind the nut on and squish the Duraflexs Complaince Bushes :slapme: I am also wondering about the lower arm to hub bush as on the standard one the steelof the arm is against the hub but the Duraflex bush is squashed between arm and hub ????? now I simply so not have enough knowledge about polymers and polyurathene to make an informed judgement here so it's a "suck it and see" scenerio :-? .

A tie rod with standard MG-Rover bush:-



That one was painted over a year ago and has lain out on the old steel saw bench since then.

The standard bush is a right Mare to remove and I found the only way with no proper press as to tear the rubber out by shearing it under pressure in the 6" bench vice, used a large deep socket and a smaller one to shear the rubber bush through, then cutting the steel ring with a hack saw before punching the split ring out with a cold chisel the Duraflex bush being in two halves was easy to fit the tube is one piece but of course is fairly short:-





Once the old bush was out the tie rod was cleaned off and primed:-



then painted Yellow to match the rest.

Of all the Duraflex bushes that I have these are the ones I would buy again as they do stiffen up the the tie rod and stop it twisting which I am hoping is a good thing! I also don't know of others offering a replacement bush for this!!!!

The lower radius arm inner bush is again very thick and it proved very difficult to get the shims in place:-





The O/S went in a bit easier and further. Anyway apart from rear shocks the rear suspension is back together. The dampers on her were no good due to poor condition so have to get replacements as NONE of the ones here are in good enough condition to use :bang: and the money has run out. The new TRW rear discs did arrive though:-





so got cleaned and titivated ................................. they are only fitted for the photo as the edge/rim is not painted and have not bought the new bolts for the caliper carrier mounting to the hub as yet along with the new bleed nipples.

Another job completed on her was the swapping of the ingition switch so she now has the full lock set from the Donor VVC fitted so she has two keys just have to sort out a second key fob as we still only have the one of those. The Donors boot lock has this cover:-



so that was swapped over too :yesnod:
plezier is offline  
post #35 of 55 (permalink) Old 30-04-2015, 07:42 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
Well she is on her wheels ...................... for now.

Yesterday was spent connecting up brake lines and hydragas lines then filling both systems. The brakes have been bled but still have some air as the pedal is not solid as yet, ran out of new fluid, so need to rebleed once we have some fresh brake fluid. Fitted the hand brake cables to the calipers.

Removed the old temp caliper mounting bolts and fitted the new upgraded slightly longer ones then fitted wheels initially just to the rear and using one of those converted oil gun hydragas pumps began filling the system. It takes time using this but it's all we have so that's the way it has to be.

So that's the way it was done and after much pumping and many refills of the cylinder we had pressure showing so the rear was lowered onto it's wheels so it was then possible to tell if it was lifting or not. Well it lifted and once we had positive proof from gaps between tyres and wheel arch the front wheels were fitted and the front lowered.

Due to the height she was at it took some fiddling to get her down as she was up way beyond the jacks reach height wise for the sub frame swap but she is now down and on her wheels. The first thing noticed was how dreadful the gear change is ....................................... talk about sloppy. This has got the rectified so being a Mk1 interior it means the centre console has to come out. Luckily it needs to come out for the failed wood trim to be replaced so at least we can "Kill two birds with one stone" and do both jobs at the same time.

The cable end gaiters have perished ....................... I am sure that will shock you to hear!!!!!, so am thinking that a Satur upgraded bell crank might not be a bad idea just need to see if we an find some money down the back of the sofa or under the bed first!! Yep the budget has run out

Annoyingly I spotted this when fitting the wheels:-





Brand new ball joints and the rubber boot is persihing before it's even been on the road!! Will take this up with the supplier but am really not pleased with the extra work this now entails as once can imagine. Rather than remove the new joints am wondering if we can just replace the faulty rubber boot?

Anyway she has spent the night sitting on her wheels and has been rolled backwards a bit and then forwards a bit so this morning the ride height can be looked at and more fluid pumped in as I an certain that yesterdays efforts were not enough. However it now means we can get her booked in for the sill repair as she is movable now .
plezier is offline  
post #36 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-05-2015, 17:21 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
Last Friday was spent wrestling with the interior to get at the gear change mechanism. Whilst removing the centre tunnel it was found to have a broken top passenger side tab. This explains why it did not sit level with the dash ..................................... so the one that came out of "Blue" was cleaned and fitted it being the same colour. We soon discovered why the change was so sloppy the spigots on the bronze bushes had been broken off so were no longer locating the parts on the holes.

So the one from "Elsie" was dragged from it's hiding place and one good working unit built from the two. Sounds easy but it was a nightmare job due to some idiots use of thread locker :rant: so whilst it was apart the 97 vintage gear stick which has a bronze bush rather than plastic was shortened. Then drilled 3/4" deep and the hole tapped 6mm. A S/S 10mm cap headed bolt was turned down and threaded 6mm to a shoulder and this was then fitted to the stick to accept the gear knob.



This has tightened up the shift no end but the cables need adjusting as selecting reverse is difficult. Adjusting the cables seems to have helped next we need to check the oil leve in the box as the seal around the change shaft is leaking.





This is how she sits now the suspension was pumped with one of those converted oil guns off ebay.

Well the 75th now has an Air Filter even if it was not the intended one. I had acquired a TF 160 filter set up including bracket however we soon discovered that with the resonator still in place even with the intake elbow removed the TF bracket won't fit. So the TF160 assembly has found it's way into "Elsie" the 97 VVC and her K&N 57i is now on the 75th. Also adjusted the cables gearbox end and fitted one new gaiter.

Have refitted the cam belt cover and today at last the new TRW rear brake pads arrived and are not fitted just need to re-bleed the brakes now and fit the belly pan. She is supposed to be moving to the garage for the sill repair tomorrow "Wednesday" but am not sure she will be ready due to other chores and the weather not playing ball.

Last edited by plezier; 12-05-2015 at 13:10.
plezier is offline  
post #37 of 55 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 12:55
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Car: MGF VVC 75th Anniversary, Audi A4 2.0TFSI Quattro
Posts: 55
superb work!!
75thAniv is offline  
post #38 of 55 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 13:16 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
Thank you!

Well the move to the garage is now Thursday late afternoon as things did not go according to plan. Am hoping everything will go smoothly this time. The delay has meant that some more could be done to her and as we do more we also find more to do, fix, or replace:-

So whilst checking lights etc for the MOT discovered this:-



Cracked rear bumper ........................................ more expense :roll: which proably was done when this happened:-



and no I don't know how or whom did it but it was like this when I veiwed it.

Anyway so the cleaning up of the under bonnet continued:-







The battery earth cable was cacked in black grease so was removed and cleaned and a new bolt found and used after a application of vaseline to protect it and provide a good contact:-



Also pulled the radiator fan relay and cleaned the contacts and smeared them with vaseline to stop corrosion. Still to do is clean the black plastics and protect them and it seems lower the N/S as it's raised a bit more and is not at over 360mm in height. Am aiming for 355-358mm in heights to allow for the warmer weather for it to rise some. Will see if it settles some more when she is moved to the garage for the sill repair on Thursday. The chap will also cut off the seized solid battery clamp bolt the battery has not been fixed in place for ages as it's sliding about has removed quite a bit of the battery trays paint I discovered. Once the bolt is cut off I can drill the remained out and paint the tray with stone chip for protection. Meanwhile have cleaned and painted the battery clamp off the donor ready to be used.

Today I am making up a bracket to reduce or remove the servo flex.
plezier is offline  
post #39 of 55 (permalink) Old 23-05-2015, 04:22 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
This morning I tackled the EPAS reset ........................... nearly gave up as could not get one of the security Torx bolts undone to aceess the sensor but it finally shifted. I think the muppet with the Locite had been about again "Doh!!!" Did not use a multi meter just winged it and it seems to have worked. the steerign does not move with her front wheels in the air and the engine started unlike before when the wheel tunrned a quarter a turn left...

Anyway she is now at the garage for the sill repair. We managed to move her earlier than planned. Chap up the road was free this evening so we did it then instead of tomorrow evening.

Oh BTW Yesterday I knocked up a servo brace that allows me to keep the original heater intake box rather than change to the TF snorkle using a piece of angle iron and a bit od Susat sight rail from an SA80 ........................... had some that came out of the scrap bin when we were working on the contract for SA80 parts (Armies Bullpup assault rifle) will take photos some time next week as it needs painting as yet. Pedal is now nice and solid in fact the chap commented on how hard and solid the brake pedal is.
plezier is offline  
post #40 of 55 (permalink) Old 23-05-2015, 04:26 Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Boston Lincolnshire
Car: Rover 623 GSI
Posts: 4,917
Well this has taken me by surprise but the repair is done. It required the whole rear part of the sill to be cut out and replaced :o it required 27" of repair any way it's looking sound not just need stone chipe then paint to cover it and make it unnoticable. It would also seem that she has been in an accident in the past as it looks like the O/S/R quarter has been repaired or replaced. Now we know that the O/S/F wing is a replacement as it's green inside so the history of her seems to be getting interesting in a not so good way.

Having her ready to pick up now has sort of throw things into confusion as I had arranged for collection Monday or Tuesday.............................. so now it's arrange the wheel alignment then MOT right after.

It seems the DVLA MOT history is rather sparce however it would appear that the front Monroe shocks were fitting in June 2010 at 60,042 miles. The hardly worn brakes that I had to replace due to being very badly fitted were done for the MOT in March 2013 and the rusting on the front sub frame was mentioned as an advisory but what is most interesting is that she may have been clocked :o as the test in 2013 is nearly 500 miles less than the one in 2014 so something is amiss. Either we have a error, the speedo unit has been changed, or something funny is going on. It would also appear that it was between 1st March and 20th April 2013 that the drivers wing was replaced as she failed the test again on that headlight aim being too low so it would appear that the bump happened in that period which required the head light and wing to be replaced. And this was all less that 2000 miles ago................................... if the odeometer is correct that is.

She is booked in for her wheel alignment adjustment then the MOT is a place in Boston for Friday morning at 10 am. So better pop out with a can an get some tetrol for her as there is very little in her. This is the sill repair:-





Am not too keen on the line of the weld but will ask Stuart if he can do something about masking it. Perhaps when the lower part is painted black with stone chip it won't be as noticable?

But somehow think it will need Stuarts delicate touch to make it really decent the rust in the intake needs sorting which means ideally the rear quarter need a repaint but that will have to wait a while as yet.
plezier is offline  
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the MG-Rover.org Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
75th anniversary mgf beemer328 MGF and MGTF (Sponsored by MGFnTFBITZ) 0 13-11-2009 11:30
75th Anniversary Edition MGF - Batmobile! Missy_MGF For Sale 9 19-03-2009 15:50
MGF 75th anniversary twin-cam25 MGF and MGTF (Sponsored by MGFnTFBITZ) 4 30-12-2008 12:09
MG MGF - 1.8i 75th Anniversary LE ? jonesey2k MGF and MGTF (Sponsored by MGFnTFBITZ) 3 02-05-2004 10:26

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome