Stu's BRM - Forged 1.8 VVC K-series turbo build - Page 3 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #41 of 120 (permalink) Old 22-12-2014, 16:00
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Originally Posted by Stuballs View Post
Some interesting builds coming out of the woodwork! Do you guys have links to build threads?

Ian presumably you'll run emerald in which case I believe the VVC can essentially be turned off.

Slow progress for me at the moment. My head is almost ready though. Porting is complete now just needs a light skim before being rebuilt. I've got most bits I need to get the engine back together. And hopefully santa will bring me some bits I need for the install.
Yes Stu I am running Emerald and as you say it can be switched off but I may experiment with it set at different points if it does not perform well. A few guys I know near Newmarket literally lock the vvc mech with a bolt and nut set up and run their race cars that way.
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post #42 of 120 (permalink) Old 20-01-2015, 18:07 Thread Starter
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Bit more progress to report at long last!

Cylinder Head

Some of you may know I spent a good while looking for a good VVC head, preferably with good VVC mechs included. this proved futile as I concluded there are none! In the end I used the VVC mechs and cams from a donor head (which itself was scrap), in a head I got which came fitted with a primitive VVC blanking kit and originally ran in a Caterham.

The head was basically good and had only ever had a light skim. valve-train was also good. I dropped it off for porting with TDR motorsport (right by Brands Hatch) who are k-series specialists. Thoroughly nice chaps and did a great job. They basically opened everything up, particularly on the exhaust side (this being forced induction, less concern for exhaust scavenging as with a nasp). A fair bit of meat was left on the valve guide bosses to help heat dissipation.
Before:



After:







I then turned my attention to the lifters. They weren't too bad but the cam-lobe surfaces had some scuffs so I planished them with various grades of wet and dry.

Cleaning:

Planishing:




All in!


Now to the VVC mechs. I had thought to simply transfer the VVC gear from one cam ladder into the other. Unfortunately they needed synching. An hour of reading later and I had it sussed - whilst daunting, it's actually not that difficult and you just have to be patient and careful not to let the mechanisms fall apart while you're handling them!



Now, some of you will have seen my query on head bolts recently. I elected to use the SAIC developed so-called "n-series" gasket. This was quite literally marketed by x-part as the ultimate fix for k-series head gaskets and is comprised of the SAIC developed gasket, grade 10.9 head bolts (with a slightly revised tightening procedure) and the stiffer oil rail.

I procured the gasket and oil rail separately some time ago and then had serious difficulty getting the bolts on their own. In the end, I had procured three sets of bolts from various suppliers all of whom assured me I was getting the uprated bolts and each time I was disappointed - the bolts I had seen actually have 10.9 stamped on the heads and none of mine had that. Eventually I elected to use the set X-part themselves supplied and which came in genuine MG Rover packaging (they had KX-1 stamped into the heads and I believe these to be made by Kamax in Germany - original oe manufacturer of the head bolts). If I'm correct, these are actually grade 9.8 and I'll have less clamping on the gasket than intended - not ideal especially with forced induction but let's see what happens - I'd already wasted too much time and money trying to find the perfect solution and just had to draw a line under it.

I moved it to 90 degress btdc before I fitted the head - which meant refitting and torqueing the dummy head and old bolts so I could turn the crank!


Many layers:


Head on!!


The gasket compressed to 2mm with the head torqued down. I re-measured the volume of the combustion chamber post porting and skim and I should now have a static compression ratio of almost exactly 9:1. which is what I wanted.

Also took care of a few other bits

Oil pump modified with radius'd edges for improved flow and fitted. I actually did this to the old one then decided to just replace it with new. So had to do it all again (only better - of course!). Naturally, I painted it orange! Also fitted water pump. I am as-yet undecided on the orange bolts - you'll not see these ones anyway but I have a whole engine bay kit - If they look gash I'll use normal stainless.





Test fitted Kinugawa Actuator to the turbo - I'm using this because the turbo didn't come with an actuator and this came with a handy adjustable bracket and various combinations of rod. It's from Japan and is a lovely piece of kit which certainly looks well made. They supplied it fitted with a 0.5 bar (7 psi) spring but I also have a 0.8 bar (11.6psi) spring if I need it. I'll be running an electronic boost controller so will decide later which spring I actually use.



Manifold is currently with Zircotec for ceramic coating. Whilst that's happening I shall crack on with the rest of the engine.

Ta ta for now.
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post #43 of 120 (permalink) Old 20-01-2015, 18:30
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Thumbs up

Coming on nicely - a real quality job. I won't ask how much this little lot is costing!

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post #44 of 120 (permalink) Old 20-01-2015, 18:58
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This is a really good build so far in really interested to see it once its done, be a right slayer, have you used forged cams ??

Last edited by JNC96; 20-01-2015 at 19:04. Reason: spelling error
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post #45 of 120 (permalink) Old 20-01-2015, 21:31 Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Just using standard VVC cams. If VVC doesn't work I'll go to solid later.
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post #46 of 120 (permalink) Old 23-01-2015, 07:48
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Some nice work there, i will shortly be stripping and porting a VVC head we have just aquired for my boys Turbo Build so your pictures will come in handy when i start attacking it, the only difference being we shall be locking of the VVC mech`s
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post #47 of 120 (permalink) Old 23-01-2015, 10:43
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Some nice work there, i will shortly be stripping and porting a VVC head we have just aquired for my boys Turbo Build so your pictures will come in handy when i start attacking it, the only difference being we shall be locking of the VVC mech`s
Sorry to streal the thread Stu

Paul - I am also looking into locking VVC the mech so will be watching you very closely to see how it goes and how you do it etc.

Cant find much info on it.
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post #48 of 120 (permalink) Old 23-01-2015, 11:54
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Sorry to streal the thread Stu

Paul - I am also looking into locking VVC the mech so will be watching you very closely to see how it goes and how you do it etc.

Cant find much info on it.
This is the only info i have been able to find
1.8VVC whats needed to convert to run on twin webbers?
pretty straight forward, but may look into the standalone electronic control a bit more.
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post #49 of 120 (permalink) Old 25-01-2015, 09:04
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This is the only info i have been able to find
1.8VVC whats needed to convert to run on twin webbers?
pretty straight forward, but may look into the standalone electronic control a bit more.
Thanks I'll be buying an emerald ecu
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post #50 of 120 (permalink) Old 31-01-2015, 17:54 Thread Starter
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Received my manifold back from Zircotec and so pleased with it. Great finish. This is their "Performance white". Plain black was cheaper but I liked the look of this. Should help with bay temps.



Before sending off I fettled the ports to match the gasket



and made an attempt to match to the turbine housing (they are very different shapes!)



And test fitted because I couldn't wait to see what it looked like. You'll see I freshened up the head with a lick of black paint. You can also see I'm starting to sort out the plumbing for the turbo.









Cheeky shot of the inlet ports:



I have a set of Ferriday insulating gaskets to sit between the manifolds to stop heat transferring back into the head from the exhaust and from the head to the inlet manifold and plenum and heating up the intake change.

Started prepping the BRM to get the engine out also today. Lots of bits will need transferring over so I want the old engine out and in front of me before I go much further with this one. I also need to get the gearbox off to someone who knows what they are doing for steel caged bearings and possibly even different ratios to make this a bit more driveable.

Also popped up to my local hydraulic shop for an turbo oil feed line. He chopped off the hard line from the oil filter housing and brazed on a JIC fitting then made up a line to go from that to the turbo. Really helpful guy and charged 40 for the work. It's good for 400 Bar so should be adequate!
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post #51 of 120 (permalink) Old 31-01-2015, 19:35
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Colourful engine, reminds me of a flag: the old german one? You're going to have your work cut out keeping that clean! Nice attn to detail - I wonder how much power the fettling etc will get.

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post #52 of 120 (permalink) Old 09-03-2015, 18:24 Thread Starter
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Glacial progress recently but small update for your viewing pleasure (or displeasure depending on your view on orange engine parts!)

I'd gone about as far as I could with the engine without needing donor bits from the engine in the BRM. So time to whip out the old leaky lump! Decided just to buy an engine crane rather than hire. No time pressure then and I can just sell it when I'm done with it. For an Ebay cheapy it's a great bit of kit.



Front bumper off



Mocking up the TF rad I'll be using - I have to move it forward and fit fans on the front since turbo sticks out so far! TF rad fits this gap nicely although it's a little too wide so some very minor modification will be required. More on that another day.



Let the lifting commence!







She's free! And my god in such an awful state. Imagine an engine put together with no gaskets and this is the level of oil leak. Probably just standard stuff for you t-series boys



We'll just set this to the side for later...





Although got the gearbox off and cleaned up a bit as I'll be needing that later...



Engine bay doesn't look too bad in this pic but in the flesh it was very grubby. Sound proofing disintegrating and everything just covered in a film of grease.



Several hours' and a few cans of silicone spray later:



I removed all the brackets to clean them properly and apply a lick of paint. Trying out this orange bolt kit I got. Not sure yet. will see how it looks once all together. Managed to clean the expansion bottle out with plenty of washing powder and a handful of pea shingle shaken like a maniac. Came up as new!



There then followed a long period of prepping, priming and painting various brackets and engine mounts. I've become somewhat obsessed with the black and orange!

Stripping the old engine down gave me access to bits I need for the new engine, which included the cambelt rear cover. So fitted the cambelt.



Getting the engine built back up with ancillaries and more orange bolts (still not sure...) and the orange inlet manifold. Note the special Ferriday thermal gasket to keet the temperature of the inlet runners down. this, unfortunately, did not match my matched ports so require very, very careful fettling to match all three up.







Then I thought I'd better mock up the proper bling orange bits just to get an idea of how they'll look. (the eagle-eyed among you will spot the cam breather - it now has a one-way valve in it). Of course this required getting the ceramic manifold out again for maximum effect. The inlet plenum is a one-off mod a fellow BRM owner had donw years ago. Standard just has the embossed "VVC".







Then sorted the engine loom - sticking with the BRM MEMS2 loom (running Emerald anyway). all I had to do was work out the wiring for the coils which are now plug-top. Like a bit of soldering. The BRM has some unique wiring colours and I couldn't find a useful wiring diagram - That'll make things interesting when it comes to wiring the Emerald. Although I know a guy who's fitted emeralds to BRMs before though



Loom is on and labelled everything!



Next job is the gearbox. I've received my steel caged bearing kit and seals from Null-Byte and decided to give it a go myself using the excellent guide on here. Given up on the idea of having more sensible ratios - Just too expensive to have a specialist build something - a job for the future maybe.

After that I have some big expenses before I can get her running: Injectors, fuel pump, Emerald ECU and necessary sensors, oil cooler kit, Gauges, and loads of other little bits and bobs. Oh and I have to have it trailered somewhere for a full 2.5" or 3" turbo-back exhaust...

Look out for my "I just dropped my input shaft and the gears are everywhere help me!" post.
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post #53 of 120 (permalink) Old 09-03-2015, 19:13
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Nice update!

Coming along very well now, only a little jealous of that garage
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post #54 of 120 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 21:46 Thread Starter
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Gearbox upgrade:

Null Byte off of Rovertech kindly supplied a complete set of bearings and seals, steel caged where available.

Obviously this is a BRM box with Type B Torsen. I had hoped to go to town on the box and have a modified gearset for more sensible ratios with this power and a Quaife LSD. Unfortunately my budget wouldn't stretch to that so I'm just refreshing/upgrading what I have for now.

started by stripping the 'box down









new bearings ready to go:



Getting the bearings out is easy with careful use of heat and bearing pullers











And that's it really. Painted to match the engine



Meanwhile I thought I'd sort something out for gauges - didn't fancy a pillar mounted gauge pod. The dashboard is a very odd shape on the bubble so a three-gauge holder would need some fettling. Decided to integrate it with the clock (Rover clock never worked anyway!)

























bit of filler:





Bit of primer but still needs some work. Not sure how to finish it though. Flocking maybe in dark grey...







Finally, to give myself a bit more room for radiator and intercooler, and to improve airflow to the rad, I deleted the bonnet catch upright support so had to fit something else to hold the bonnet down. I would have preferred some less substantial bonnet pins but that would be dubious when it came to the MOT so only option was to use aerocatches.

I deliberated for days on where to put them but in the end the least stupid seemed to be in line with the (also functional) cooling vents. What I've ended up with is something a bit fussy and not entirely in keeping with the stock lock I was intending. Oh well, it's all in the interests of efficient cooling!









Hopefully this weekend I'll get the rear crank oil seal in then get the flywheel and clutch on ready to fit the gearbox and get the engine in the car. That'll feel like massive progress but actually will still have an awful lot to do after that! Still, progress is progress!
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post #55 of 120 (permalink) Old 12-04-2015, 18:13
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This is a sweet build mate looking forward to more updates keep up the great work
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post #56 of 120 (permalink) Old 23-04-2015, 17:33 Thread Starter
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I've recently made what felt like stellar progress and got the engine in the car!

Actually, it was a surprisingly simple job.

First job was to get the rear crank oil seal in (using a special tool). this is odd since Haynes make no mention of using sealant here but RAVE specifies sealant. So I used sealant!


Flywheel on with new bolts of course. This is a Freelander 2 flywheel which allows me to use the slightly larger 220 turbo clutch, but still has k-series fitment. I elected not to go for a lightened crank as everyone else seems to do. I was talked into this by Vibration Free who did my balancing. I slightly regret the decision but this will make for an easier to drive car. Obviously I can always fit a lighter unit later down the road if I feel the need.

Here's my clutch - Grant assures me it's man enough - Shouldn't be aggressive at all and pedal is nice and easy. Clutch cover was balanced with the flywheel and everything else that moves in the bottom end.


Gearbox on:

Now the really exciting bit.






IN!!!!!

Now to get the manifold on. I'm using Ferriday thermal gaskets which need a bit of help sealing. On goes a bit of high temp gasket. (Look at those ports! )

Thermal gasket in place - ports match up quite well luckily!


Zircotec ceramic coated manifold on:


And the turbo (T28r from a 200SX - rebuild by Wilky with a billet wheel and fitted with a Kinugawa actuator from Japan).




And of course I could not resist test fitting a bit of engine bay bling. I fully accept that the orange bolt kit looks utterly gash - that's going in favour of more sensible plain stainless.




Then fitting the prt. Had to really chop and swap around the pipes to fit but this should work really well. I'm fairly confident I've got it right! Still have the plumb in the turbo feed and drain. The tee from the pipe going to the pump will feed it cold water and the tee in the top hose will take the hot water away.


That's it for now. I think I'm probably now going to have the car transported to an exhaust fabricator to have the whole system made up in stainless in 2.5" from turbo back, with a sports cat. Need to sort out somewhere to do that and sort out the transport there and back.
Thanks for looking!
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post #57 of 120 (permalink) Old 25-04-2015, 19:12
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Impressive project,I plan to put a 1.8 turbo engine on my freelander but it is not a simple matter....
.....anyway great job you did
cheers
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post #58 of 120 (permalink) Old 23-05-2015, 15:46 Thread Starter
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Big expensive step this week. Exhaust is now done!

Took her to Fast Road Conversions in Ashford (Powerspeed) for a full turbo-back 2.5" system with a sports cat. They managed to squeeze in a massive 3" downpipe too!

First time out of the garage for a while. Gave her a quick wipe down as she was covered in generic garage dust.



Obviously she's not running so had to arrange for transport there and back



Straight into the good stuff: Huge 3" downpipe! You can see it runs quite close to the alternator so I'm thinking about heat wrap just for that section. I also have some heat shield material to make something to further protect the alternator from radiative heat.





Downsizes to 2.5" after the flexi







Back box is not the prettiest thing so I'll paint that black at some point.



Love this shot:





There was a small hiccup when a miscommunication left me without a cat. The guys were great and sorted it while I waited when I went to collect. It does mean I now have a slip-on join before the cat but I can live with that.

Can't wait to get her running so I can hear it!


Meanwhile. Needed to sort out the rad. Looked at a few options. Couldn't use the old one. Firstly because it didn't fit in the new forward position required by the sticky-out turbo. Also because it looked like this:



In the end, Marty sorted me out with a custom job all made in copper exactly to my specification. Fits like a glove! Thanks Marty!










Also fitted my gas bonnet struts. In the standard position they rub the wing and you can see through the gap between the wing and the bonnet with the bonnet shut. That annoyed the hell out of my so I fettled my already somewhat fettled bonnet to move the brackets in a bit:





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post #59 of 120 (permalink) Old 23-05-2015, 19:33
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that downpipe is massive but looks like good work tho great progress mate but personally not keen on the bonnet pins and bonnet air vents but thats just my opinion but i do love this car tho
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post #60 of 120 (permalink) Old 23-05-2015, 19:48 Thread Starter
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Yeah the vents and aerocatches will
always split opinion. It's growing on me but I'm still not quite sure myself. It's all in the interests of cooling though.
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