Stu's BRM - Forged 1.8 VVC K-series turbo build - Page 4 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #61 of 120 (permalink) Old 24-05-2015, 14:10
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looking at all this, i would buy shares in your favorite tyre manufacturer asap lol looking at the size of that turbo, the front ones will last roughly 5 miles lol

seriously though, this is, and continues to be an awesome build, i cannot wait to see and hear this thing running! it is going to be epic!
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post #62 of 120 (permalink) Old 25-05-2015, 22:20
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What a great build really enjoying seeing this engine running and its power output which should be very high due to the components used.Using it with that brm gear box is going to be amazingly quick as they are very fast as standard.

can't wait for the next update.

Thanks
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post #63 of 120 (permalink) Old 22-06-2015, 19:59
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Very impressed with your project; way beyond my skills (and strength of marriage frankly!) but as others have commented, it is clear to see great skill and determination is being applied to this!

Good luck with the rest!
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post #64 of 120 (permalink) Old 30-06-2015, 13:55 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cju View Post
What a great build really enjoying seeing this engine running and its power output which should be very high due to the components used.Using it with that brm gear box is going to be amazingly quick as they are very fast as standard.

can't wait for the next update.

Thanks
Thanks dude. BRM box might actually be too short for the power this will have - I'll be going up through the gears very quickly and motorway cruising will have the revs quite high. It's a compromise though - funds are not unlimited!

Quote:
Originally Posted by iggie View Post
Very impressed with your project; way beyond my skills (and strength of marriage frankly!) but as others have commented, it is clear to see great skill and determination is being applied to this!

Good luck with the rest!
Just taking it slowly and enjoying learning while I go. I enjoy sharing my progress and positive comments like this make it all the more enjoyable.
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post #65 of 120 (permalink) Old 30-06-2015, 14:01 Thread Starter
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Mini update

Finished my gauge pod and gave it a coat of black plastidip type paint. Turned out ok although to be honest I think this might be even more intrusive than a-pillar pods. Will stick with it and see if it grows on me. The gauges themselves are awesome. Went with Prosport EVO gauges from r-spec. Oil temp, oil pressure and boost. They are 60mm and all digital. They have a cool start up ceremony The plan is to have another 2 gauges down by the ashtray - wideband and a plx multi gauge to display a selection of parameters from the Emerald.








Received my slightly slimmer (50mm core) intercooler that fits nicely between the radiator and snout. Mocked up temporarily:





That's it for now.
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post #66 of 120 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 21:06
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Any updates
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post #67 of 120 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 21:34 Thread Starter
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Any updates
Update on the way. Had a nightmare trying to fit radiator, intercooler and oil cooler behind the bumper. Think I've just about figured it out. Also had to relocate the oil filter. Currently working out the intake piping and waiting on injectors.

Hoping to have her running by October so I can run her in before the weather turns and roads covered in salt. Then have winter to resolve any issues that come up. Then full respray in spring next year. Then see about a full power map one run in before pol.
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post #68 of 120 (permalink) Old 29-08-2015, 08:44
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Hi mate.

I saw you had to buy 2 sets of pistons.
Is the second one still available. I'd be glad do take them off your hands!
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post #69 of 120 (permalink) Old 29-08-2015, 13:40
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Hi mate.

I saw you had to buy 2 sets of pistons.
Is the second one still available. I'd be glad do take them off your hands!
Afraid not, they're sitting inside my engine waiting to go in the car.
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post #70 of 120 (permalink) Old 02-09-2015, 08:40 Thread Starter
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Time for another update.

First up was to fit the larger injectors. Grant of gbe hooked me up with these 660cc Siemens Deka jobbies. Straight replacement for the standard injectors. Possibly the easiest job on the whole build so far.

I worked out I would need static fuel flow of around 525cc for 300bhp with an 80% duty so these are just the ticket. Plenty of headroom.







Now onto the cooling and intake.

Opted for 2x10" Spal slimline fans mounted behind the rad. Fit like a glove.



You will recall this is a special build radiator that sits further forward to allow room for the turbo. So had to make up all the brackets.





The fans are held in place by those locking rods that go through the core but the bulk of the weight is supported by these brackets.



I had my doubts as to whether my enormous downpipe would allow me to fit an oil cooler sandwich plate and filter in the stock location. As it happens, there wasn't even room to fit the filter! Not even the smaller diesel one!



So I had a rethink and decided my only real option was a remote filter. I could then run the oil cooler sandwich plate on the remote head...



Here's the remote head:



Only viable mounting position was under where the battery tray was. Fitted here with the sandwich plate.



With that sorted out was time to get the radiator, intercooler and oil cooler packaged up but first to paint the intercooler black for a more stealthy look.



And here's the mocal oil cooler.



Trying to fit this lot behind the bumper was a nightmare. The orange snout projects a fair way behind the bumper so had to be trimmed slightly. As did the back of the top grill to clear the oil cooler.



More brackets





Making up the an-10 lines.











And getting it all bolted up with the final set of brackets painted black for more stealth.







Meanwhile, I thought I would make myself a heat shield for the airbox.
Mocked up in cardboard:



Sheet of stainless off ebay bent to shape and fettled :










I don't have any pictures of putting the intake pipework together but suffice to say it was a long painful process getting it just right!
I also modified a cone filter heat shield to fit it to my stainless box. I thought the orange would balance out the bay a bit more but the main purpose is to stop the filter getting drenched if water ever finds its way through the bonnet vent.

And here's how she sits now :









Emerald are currently working on my ecu and loom. Then all I need is a wideband kit and after a few finishing touches I'll be ready to start!
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post #71 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-09-2015, 20:27
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WOW !

VEry impressive indeed !

Following this , just read it from page one today
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post #72 of 120 (permalink) Old 26-09-2015, 09:22 Thread Starter
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Big day! She runs!



Only run long enough to get up to temp and check for leaks and a give it a few blips of the throttle to make sure nothing pops off. No attempt at mapping whatsoever so it sounds lumpy. Also the power steering pump is making an alarming noise but hopefully just needs bleeding.

Had a few minor issues with the wiring on the Emerald. The boost control wiring was missing from the adapter loom so had to go back to emerald. Also the wideband wiring and configuration was wrong despite me querying this with emerald specifically after reading the manual and deciding what they said should be done wouldn't work! A quick pin change and tinker with the settings and it's working.

A few oil leaks including a pretty bad one from the VVC housing - not going to be easy to fix! Happily no oil leaks from any of my oil lines though. Coolant bled up with no fuss - I think the prt makes the system easier to bleed.

Next steps: tidy everything up, fit bumper and book dyno session. Also might change the oil after this first run. A bit ocd perhaps but I'll be happier putting her on the dyno with fresh oil. The first run up will have mixed all kinds of crap in with the oil such as assembly lube.

Plan is to run in on the dyno as it's mapped. Track'n'Road will do this.
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post #73 of 120 (permalink) Old 28-09-2015, 16:39
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Great news mate... that turbo sound... drool
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post #74 of 120 (permalink) Old 28-09-2015, 19:30
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Tidy work - hope you get those leaks fixed and all goes well at the dyno session.
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post #75 of 120 (permalink) Old 12-10-2015, 19:41
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where is like button ....this sound is amazing

@Stuballs,you use electric water pump on this engine ?
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post #76 of 120 (permalink) Old 31-10-2015, 12:05
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Awesome build, some excellent work going on here.
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post #77 of 120 (permalink) Old 15-11-2015, 09:00 Thread Starter
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Mapping. A mixed bag.

Was going well and almost finished when a misfire developed at idle. Lost compression at cylinder 3. Maybe a sticking valve. Mapper thought most likely a sticky lifter. Was making about 190bhp at 8psi when that happened.

Secondary issue: the VVC was very rattly and causing a lot of vibration so I think this setup is no good. It actually sounded like a diesel! It's going to have to go.

Anyway, trailered her back home and ran a compression leak down test. It showed a compression leak through the inlet so an inlet valve is sticking open for some reason. So head had to come off.

The good news was the pistons were ok - they are custom made and I'd not be getting another set in a hurry. They ARE coated in very sticky oily deposits which I didn't expect with only 50 miles on them. There's also more oil in the inlet manifold than I would have expected. Not gallons, but more than I would have thought this early.

Head looks fine. Offending valve not damaged at all. No sign of any impact with piston. But the valve cap is definitely sitting high so not sitting right on the collets. Weird. Also some of the valve stem seals appear to be weeping oil so I obviously got a bad batch.















So popped out the valve and found this:



The valve spring cap has several splits all the way around. It had dropped the valve a few mm but, miraculously, not let it slip all the way off and into the piston. Lucky escape!

So I took the decision to upgrade the head now. VVC was something of an experiment anyway and I never expected it to be an efficient setup with my fairly small (read: restrictive) turbo.

Solid cams (delete VVC)
New REC/Paul Ivey inlet valves
Stiffer Kent valve springs
Kent steel valve caps









Next step is to order the cams and VVC blanking kit - haven't decided what cams to use yet. More soon.
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post #78 of 120 (permalink) Old 15-11-2015, 09:48
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Hi

some more good work here, fantastic. I agree with your idea about the vvc as it might cause problems in the future if left.

thanks
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post #79 of 120 (permalink) Old 15-11-2015, 10:47
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Athough disappointing at the time, good job you saw the decline on the dyno. That valve collar doesn't look like it would have lasted long, and when it failed it would have taken it some expensive stuff with it!

I've just rebuilt a motorcycle head, which after reading this I'm going to double check the valve collets before bolting down.

Btw good work.
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post #80 of 120 (permalink) Old 16-11-2015, 04:12
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Where did you find was a good price for either the Kent or Piper valve spring cap? As the original are only Sintered they aren't forged/machined so should fail. But now that the failure area is obvious I will check my stds just incase cause my new head goes on soon.
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