Stu's BRM - Forged 1.8 VVC K-series turbo build - Page 5 - MG-Rover.org Forums
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post #81 of 120 (permalink) Old 27-11-2015, 13:24 Thread Starter
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Cams ordered!

The cams are bp270h spec but with 10.5mm lift instead of the normal 9.65mm for these cams.

Also ordered a VVC blanking kit, vernier pulleys and complete set of their uprated VVC hydraulic lifters.

Cam spec:

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post #82 of 120 (permalink) Old 13-12-2015, 18:08 Thread Starter
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Goodies received from Piper!



The combined extra lift and width of the cam lobes meant I had to fettle the head to provide adequate clearance.





Uprated hydraulic followers from Piper going in.





Cams and VVC blanking kit going in









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post #83 of 120 (permalink) Old 14-12-2015, 09:37
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Nice to see its still coming along well.]

The car has the stealthy OEM look to it, which is underrated in my opinion. The front inter cooler and oil cooler look factory spec and should be hard to spot from just looking at the car.

Out of interest was the switch to solid cam lead by your particular VVC system being noisy making it a "might as well" thing...
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post #84 of 120 (permalink) Old 14-12-2015, 10:04 Thread Starter
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Thanks dude. Swap to solid cams was down by a few factors but yeah mostly a "might as well" decision. Frankly, I didn't want to waste more time fitting another set of VVC mechs that could end up being just as bad. Since I had the head off to fix the inlet valve issue, it made sense to do it then.

The VVC was always an experiment and I had prepared for having to go solid cam.
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post #85 of 120 (permalink) Old 24-12-2015, 21:37 Thread Starter
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Mini update. I had a bit of time so I thought I'd change the colour of the vernier pulleys to match the rest of the engine bay and do something so they are on display.

Anodising is actually a very simple process but involves some nasty chemicals so care must be taken. The part must be cleaned then stripped and etched in Sodium Hydroxide. Then it's just a case of rigging up a power supply and some electrodes in a solution of sulphuric acid electrolyte. I got everything in a kit off ebay and just used a12v car battery supported by a charger.

The setup :


Removing the existing anodising and etching the aluminum bits in Sodium Hydroxide:



Nice and clean and ready for anodising:



Process underway:



Once the anodising is complete (took about 45 minutes) it's just a case of soaking in dye for 20 minutes then sealing in boiling water for half hour.

This was the result:



Fitted to the head which is now completely rebuilt and ready to refit to the car :



Mocked up with the new cam cover I acquired from an early mems3 setup so still had the "Rover" emblem. Very hard to come by:





Next job is just to pop this back on, get the cams properly timed in, then fire it up and see what happens!
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post #86 of 120 (permalink) Old 24-12-2015, 22:56
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Looks fantastic will be good to see it running!!

What ignition setup are you using? the internal 2x coil pack or the vvc coil pack?

Thanks
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post #87 of 120 (permalink) Old 29-12-2015, 14:50 Thread Starter
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Looks fantastic will be good to see it running!!

What ignition setup are you using? the internal 2x coil pack or the vvc coil pack?

Thanks
Running the VVC coil packs that suit on top of the cam cover.
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post #88 of 120 (permalink) Old 29-12-2015, 14:52 Thread Starter
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Update time! Fitting the head and timing the new cams in:

I've already got the cams installed with the vernier pulleys. 10.5mm lift over the standard 9.5mm:





Easiest way to time the cams correctly is by reference to lift at Top Dead Centre. Dave Andrews' k-series engine page has a very useful step by step guide on how to do this.

First, you need identify when cyl 1 and 4 are at TDC. There are a number of ways to do this. Since I had the head off, I just did it by eye. It took a lot of patience as there is a dwell point right at the top where the piston hardly moves. If the head is on, you could either rig up a dial gauge with a long probe down through the spark plug hole, or use a long bolt (like a head bolt) down through the plug hole and do it by eye. I made up a pointer for easy reference:



Before the head went on, I set the bottom end to exactly 90 degrees Before Top Dead Centre:



I then used the timing marks from the stock pulleys for 90BTDC to make equivalent marks on the vernier pulleys, so the timing is as close to correct as possible. Head on and cambelt refitted:





A quick point on head bolts. It is possible for the bolts to be too long and foul the sump. This obviously affects the clamping on the head gasket and it's believed to be one of the contributing causes of head gasket failure on the k-series, expecially if using cheaper aftermarket bolts.

As before, I'm using the 5-layer n-series gasket but this time I'm using it with the supplied higher grade 10.9 bolts (which require a modified tightening procedure of 20nm + 180 + 135). These bolts were very slightly longer than the old ones I took out (which being used stretch bolts had probably stretched slightly anyway). To be safe, I shaved a couple of mm from the tip of each bolt:



Rigging up a dial Gauge using brackets I had made up a while back to Dave Andrews design. Used some 2.4mm tig wire screwed into the tip of the gauge and bent to shape.



Very tricky getting the gauge in the right place with the gauge tip on the lifter but not fouling the camshaft:





Engine set back to TDC. Then loosened the clamp bolts on the pulley and adjusted the cam to give the correct lift at TDC as specified in the spec sheet. On the inlet, this is 1.4mm:





Bang on!



Actually wasn't that simple at all! Every time you clamp up the vernier clamp bolts and turn the engine over a couple of times it changed! It took at least 5 iterations to get it right. Got there in the end though!

One last turn over by hand to make sure nothing collides. I then spent the next few hours putting everything back together and refilling fluids.







Crunch time. One last check over everything. Unplug injectors for a test turnover. Turn the key and...

Flat battery!

I rigged up a spare with enough charge to turn over and check I have oil pressure. All good.

Gave the battery a quick charge. Injectors plugged back in and ready to go.

Fired right up on the key despite this map being way out for these cams. There then followed a very nervous 20 minutes running at 2k - 2.5krpm to bed the cams in. During this time I checked for leaks and generally panicked and worried at every little noise. The top end was noisier than expected. Part of this I think is down to the low duration/high lift combo of these cams resulting in a high ramp up. A lot of it I think is down to a leaking exhaust manifold gasket. Video to follow...
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post #89 of 120 (permalink) Old 29-12-2015, 20:59
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Good job

Engine looks fantastic...
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post #90 of 120 (permalink) Old 30-12-2015, 10:54 Thread Starter
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Good job

Engine looks fantastic...
Thanks. All buttoned up and ready for mapping again...

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post #91 of 120 (permalink) Old 30-12-2015, 21:31
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Better luck this time!
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post #92 of 120 (permalink) Old 02-01-2016, 12:41 Thread Starter
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For peace of mind, in advance of the mapping, I thought I would rig myself up a boost leak tester. The boosting and dumping sound doesn't sound the same as it did before the head change and I've got some time while I wait for the mapping so it's worth doing.

Pretty simple concept. Feed controlled compressed air to the intake and listen for leaks.

I basically bodged a male quick-connect compressor fitting into an aerosol lid that fit my inlet pipework perfectly. Because Rover.





Started off with 5psi from the regulated side of my compressor. The result was frankly astounding.

The big leak that was immediately obvious was where the brake servo pipe meets the inlet manifold. Air was literally pouring out! Closer inspection revealed a missing o-ring! Luckily I had a spare plastic mpi manifold that users the same fittings so that was an easy fix.

Next up were 4 separate leaks from various boost clamps primary of which was where the inlet pipework meets the throttle body. These were sorted with tightened/upgraded clamps.

Finally, the throttle body itself has a small leak from where the cable retaining body fits on. I guess it's a failed seal what's the shaft enters the throttle body. Don't know if that can even be changed but easist fix is just to change the throttle body. It's a really small leak and barely noticeable below 15 psi so might wait until after first mapping session.

Tested up to 20 psi and no other leaks. Glad I took the time to do this. Roll on mapping!
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post #93 of 120 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 18:39
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What size tb are you using? 48mm or 52mm?
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post #94 of 120 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 20:49 Thread Starter
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So mapping happened today. No problems this time around! Only issue is some tapping from the lifters. They may need changing which will be very disappointing since Piper charged me a small fortune for their uprated lifters. Waiting to hear from Piper.

Anyway, very quick snippet of a power run:

YouTube
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&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&hd=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="560" height="340">


Numbers don't really mean much at this stage as the timing is very conservative for running in. Power 210bhp and torque 184lbft. Boosting to 8psi.



However, whilst it seemed ok getting back on the trailer, when I got home (after it had cooled down) it's still not running quite right at idle. It bogs down if you boot the throttle from idle and is generally very slow to pick up revs unless you get the throttle just right.

Booked in for mot Saturday but I doubt it will get through emissions running likes this. I'll still go and just use it as an opportunity to put a few miles on the engine and see if there's anything else I need to sort. Then I'll have another look at the running issue.
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post #95 of 120 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 12:00
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Very nice job. Love seeing a shiny fresh engine, was also very interesting seeing you anodising stuff yourself.

Shame you moved away from the VVC system but can understand why
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post #96 of 120 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 20:24
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Will you be fitting a 52mm throttle body to her?
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post #97 of 120 (permalink) Old 18-01-2016, 21:15
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What a fantastic project!
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post #98 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 15:35 Thread Starter
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After a bit of a mad January I finally got around to putting her through an MOT...

Mot went better than expected. Only failed on unsecured headlights. Should be an easy fix. I have some nicer headlights to fit anyway (once I've deoranged them).

Emissions were an odd one. They were initially so all over the place they couldn't even test. Then something happened and they managed to get a reading just within range on all parameters. Result!

So I need to sort the headlights and get the mot retest done. At some point I also need to swap the noisy piper lifters back to the standard ones and see if that resolves the tappy top end. That'll have to wait until after the mapping on Friday.

Whilst in for the mot they also realigned the wheels. Unsurprisingly since I've replaced the entire steering and suspension setup and fitted a new steering rack it was completely out. Drives much nicer now. I will say though that torque steer at low speeds even at this low power level is worse than I thought it would be. That might require some looking into later.

Having a hard time finding somewhere prepared to respray it. It's really surprised me as the rust really isn't that bad. Once the mot is done and she's properly on the road I need to start travelling a bit further afield to find somewhere. There's now very little prospect of the bodywork being done before POL which is a real shame.

Cheeky daylight shot seeing as she hasn't been out for a while:

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post #99 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 17:43
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Thumbs up for all the work and the pass mate.

Should get a set of lights, de-orange them and paint the silver surrounds black, looks smart.






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post #100 of 120 (permalink) Old 13-02-2016, 12:42 Thread Starter
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Had another mapping session. This time at Track n Road in Rainham. It was a really interesting day. They basically started completely from scratch and worked on it for over 4 hours. What surprised me the most was that they mapped TPS vs RPM. Most mappers say forced induction can only be mapped safely with MAP vs TPS so I was a little apprehensive. To adjust fuel and ignition for boost, they use compensation tables in the Emerald based on manifold pressure. As before, I'm sticking to actuator pressure until I can put some miles on the engine and upgrade the fuel pump. This is about 7-8psi.

Result: 250bhp and 200lbft at the fly. (220bhp at the wheels). They reckoned at 16psi it could just reach 300bhp.



Looking at the power curve, you'll notice at the top end the boost rises from 7-8psi to around 10psi and this causes an obvious corresponding spike in power. That's a result of the internal wastegate on this relatively small turbo reaching the limit of what it can flow, forcing gases to travel past the turbine. Not a problem since I'll eventually run more boost than that anyway.

The dip halfway up, which I had before in the last map, is probably the cams. The mapper was confident that would not be felt behind the wheel on the road. We'll see what that looks like when we turn the boost up and maybe look at tweaking the cam timing if it affects real-world driveability.

She's running so much better now. Very pleased with Track n Road. They don't mince their words! Actually what I really liked about these guys is that they take the time to explain what they are doing and why they are doing it. They answer questions (often with some sarcasm, but that's fine) and make suggestions for improvements to the system based on what you'll use the car for. The cafe up the road also makes the best bacon roll I've ever had!

Also now had an MOT.
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