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rover 620ti starter motor/solenoid

5K views 24 replies 5 participants last post by  Dave turbo 
#1 ·
my starter motor sometimes does not engage and spins without turning the engine.Has anyone got any pics/manual how to get it off the engine/strip the solenoid?Or even a pic of a new one so i can get an idea where the lower mounting bolt is!
 
#4 ·
This problem seems to be common to 2 litre M16 and T16 engines fitted to 820's, 220's, 420's, certain 620's and all 2l turbo's. Also occurs on 2l Maestro's and Montego's.

The problem is with the drive mechanism in the starter motor. This contains a one way clutch mechanism which is intended to stop the starter over-revving should the ingine fire while it is still engaged. When this starts to playup the starter will engage and spin but mechanism slips so no drive is transmitted to the flywheel. Hence the starter motor can be heard to spin but the engine doesn't turn over. Initially this appears as an intermitent problem, often worse in the cold weather. During the summer months it can work everytime for months on end, but come the colder weather, thats when the trouble starts.

The cure is either a reconditioned starter motor at £120+ or to repair it yourself which can be done in 45 minutes if you have all the tools to hand. Other people on here will tell you where to obtain a new drive mechanism. Procedure as follows.

1. Locate radio key code and procedure for re-entering.
2.
 
#5 ·
OOps.

1. Locate radio key code and instructions for re-entering.
2. Unlock doors, close all electric windows, open bonnet.
3. Disconnect battery negative lead (13mm socket) and push lead out of the way.
4. Same for the positive lead.
5. Disconnect solenoid lead (pull of tab).
6. Disconnect main power lead to starter (13mm socket).
7. Loosen top starter bolt (19mm socket and 5 inch extension). This bolt screws into the end of the block.
8. Locate the bottom bolt which is ofetn out of sight and loosen (same tools). This is bolt is longer and goes right through the engine end-plate and is secured with a nut and spring washer. The washer grips well enough to loosen and tighten the bolt but you will have to reach behind the engine to remove the nut and washer.
9. Now remove the top bolt and the starter motor should come away.
10. Undo the connection for the lead which runs from the solenoid to the motor (12mm socket).
11. Undo the 2 bolts holding the solenoid in place (8mm) and remove the solenoid coil.
12. Unhook the solenoid armature from the drive mechanism actuator arm, remove armature and spring.
13. Remove motor rear bearing cover (2 small torx screws).
14. Remove retaining clip and washer from the end of the motor armature shaft.
15. Remove the motor rear cover (2 medium torx screws).
16. Using a small screwdriver, gently ease off the 4 plastic clips which hold the brush springs in place. Remove the clips and springs.
17. Remove casting from front of motor case (2 medium torx screws).
18. Withdraw the motor armature from casing.
19. Stand the armature on the bench with the drive mechanism uppermost.
20. Slide a large ½ inch drive socket over the end of the shaft (square drive end downwards) and give it a GENTLE tap with a large hammer. This should release the thrust washer from its locking ring.
21. Slide the thrust washer down the shaft.
22. Grip the motor armature in a bench vice and prise the locking ring out of its groove with a couple of screwdrivers. If you don’t have a vice, get someone to hold the armature steady on the bench but make sure those hands are wearing thick leather gloves. Prising the locking ring (a.k.a. you F*****g Little B*****d) out of its groove is a little tricky the first time, but with a little patience and persistence you will prevail.
23. Slide the locking ring off the end of the shaft, ditto the thrust washer and drive mechanism.
24. Have a cup of tea (or other suitable beverage).

Re-assembly is basically the same only backwards, if you see what I mean.

Getting the thrust washer back over the FLB can be tricky. The best way seems to be to lever it over with a large screwdriver starting on the side opposite the open end of the locking ring.

Older starter motors have different brush assemblies. Also they use proper screws and bolts rather than these new-fangled torx thingys.

If you have remote central locking, you will need to operate the key fob buttons alternately three or four times before it re-activates.

Less than an hour (with any luck) and you have fixed it. You have also just saved your self over a hundred quid. Feel good?
 
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