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How do i change alternator belt (fanbelt)?

35K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  LSA 
#1 ·
okay, i'm changing my PAS and alternator belt. I've slackened the bolt on the tensioner pulley for the PAS belt, then unwound the tensioning bolt, and have got the PAS belt off.

I have slackened the alternator top mount, now what? how do i take the tension from the alternator belt?

thanks
 
#4 ·
On a scale of 1 to 10(10 being murder) how difficult is it to change the PAS belt? No facility for lifting engine out or anything like that.

Got a list as long as my arm from a garage on things needing done and PAS belt is on there. Just looking to see if there is anything i can cross off and do myself.


p.s. a cracked PAS - anyone know if that should be covered under a typical warranty or do these things just go over time?
 
#7 ·
PAS and alternator belt are the easiest belts in the book ( well were on my 1.4 Zr....

Just flick the black tensioner foward 4 PAS belt and off it pops.

Then loosen alternator thin theres 3 screws need to loosen bracket underneath and pull out and the alternator will flop and take belt off.

Then do the opposite to replace. make sure theres enough tension on the alternator belt get something to lever it to make it tight again before you tighten the bolts.

and then jobs done 15/20 min job max...
 
#8 ·
PAS and alternator belt are the easiest belts in the book ( well were on my 1.4 Zr....

Just flick the black tensioner foward 4 PAS belt and off it pops.
Not that easy on my 214.
The bolt that holds the black plastic PAS tensioner pulley in requires a special swan neck spenner to loosen or the engine dropping down to access the nut.

The alternator belt is a lot easier but it is quite easy to put it on too tight if you've never changed one before.
 
#12 ·
Anyone? I keep reading the above, especially post #8 but I don't know where the black plastic PAS tensioner pulley is! Also do all 214's need a special spanner to loosen it? If so what are they called and where do you get them from?

Can I see all that is required from the top of the engine or is this where I am going wrong and need to get underneath and look upwards?

TIA for any help.
 
#15 ·
TIA
you don't need a special spanner all you need is an 11mm spanner and use the open end to unscrew it, which you will need to unscrew from underneath the car. The black tensioner pulley is the one just below the power steering pulley, which has to be slacken off with a 13mm swan neck spanner to avoid dropping an engine mounting.
 
#16 ·
i notice that
liammcc mentioned the 8mm nutused to adjust the tension of the alternator it does have a habit of snapping off so lots of wd40 first,if you jack up take off o/s wheel remove the plastic cover that obscures you view of the belts then its fairly straight forward job
 
#17 ·
alternator belt rover 214

Replacing the alternator belt is not as straightforward as in some cars but is not difficult if you remove the offside road wheel. All you then need to do is looosen NOT REMOVE the 15mm bolt on the adjustment arm using the access through the wheel arch. Then from under the bonnet, loosen the 15mm bolt on the front of the altenator mounting and then you can slacken the tension on the belt by turning the 8mm adjusting bolt mounted beneath the altenator anti clockwise until the old belt can be slipped off and the new belt slipped on.
adjust the new belt so there is approx 10-12mm play on the longest belt run by turning the 8mm ajustment bolt clockwise then clamp in that position by FULLY tightening the 15mm bolt on the ajustment arm. Then finally fully tighten the 15mm bolt on the front of the altenator mounting. Check and re-tension belt after about a week as it will slightly stretch with use

Took me 15 mins

A few notes I made while carrying out this proceedure yesteday. The 8mm adjustment screw is easier seen from underneath but once a socket is placed on it and it has been initially slackened it can be adjusted from above (dont tale the socket off it or you will have to find the adjuster again) secondly the 15mm bolt on the adjustment arm can be undone with a socket but due to the restricted access and the space needed for the socket driver a 15mm ring spanner may make it easier.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Changing the PAS belt is not as bad as it seems but first a very important word SAFETY. The tensioner is spring loaded and will easily remove a finger so two people should be involved. You need a 13mm spanner and a small piece of wood Approx 2-3 inches long and about a quarter of an inch square. First remove the offside road wheel to give access through the wheel arch. then identify the PAS belt (it's the 1st one on the small pulley the alternator belt is behind it) Then from under the bonnet identify the 13mm hexagaonal lug on the tensioner. The tensioner is the black wheel just below the power steering pump and the belt runs OVER this wheel. The lug is located to the rear of the tensoner just below the black wheel. place the 13mm spanner on this lug and you can then release the tension on the belt by lifting the spanner towards you. when you reach the stop the belt can easily be removed by your assistant and the new belt fed round the pulleys and positioned OVER the tensioner wheel using the wood for saftey. Then just gently lower the spanner until the tensioner takes up all the slack in the belt and job done.
If as in my case the belt has snapped the tensioner will have retracted back to it's lower stop. This is slightly more complicated but a small length of metal Bar (i used a small nail with the point cut off) will simplify matters. If you try to move the tensioner back with the spanner you will find it is obstructed by a cross member. You do NOT need a swan neck spanner the tensioner has been designed to help you. If you look at the lug you will see it has a hole through it. Then look at the metal body of the tensioner and you will see that approx 45 degrees to the vertical looking the left towards the back of the tensioner it also has a small hole. Use the spanner to move the tensioner backwards until these holes line up and then insert the bar through both these holes this will lock the tensioner in this position and allow you to remove the spanner and re-position it above the obstruction. From above then take hold of the spanner remove the bar and proceed as above for removing/replacing belt.
One tip. I found the listed belt a very tight fit and very difficult/impossible to fit safely over the pulleys due to the restricted space. I got round this by replacing the belt with a slightly longer one Quinton Hazel QBR3750 is 15mm longer and that was a very easy fit the extra 15mm being negligable over the entire length of the belt and the tensioner took up the extra slack with no problem.
 
#19 ·
Ive been trying to get my pulley sorted today and ive searched numerous threads, but there seems to be conflicting information. So here it is.

Non aircon - your alternator will be on a slider, undo the bottom and top bolts so theyre loose as above, then use the 8mm tensioner bolt under the alternator to slacken / tighten the belt when refitting.

Aircon - PITA. The tensioner is a manual one between the crank and alternator pulley. You have to get under the car and wind out a 14mm bolt, then crack the 13mm bolt on the pulley itself so it slides and releases nelt tension. The alternator is fixed and will not swivel.

You can do this:

1, With a 13mm swan necked spanner
2, Grind a few mm off a 13mm socket so it will fit between the bulkhead and bolt
3, Remove camside engine mount, lower the engine 3" and remove as normal through the wheel arch.

Hope this clears it up because ive had a mare. My belt is off and i dont have a 13mm swan necked spanner and limited tools. Off to machinemart!
 
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