Well, there are several places you can mount this sub, behind the passenger seat or maybe even in the passenger footwell, but both mean that you will lose either some travel on the seat or some leg room.
So, I decided to mount mine behind the armrest. This means that I lose a small storage space, but to be honest, I never really used it as it was insecure and things tended to fall out when you opened it.
The first thing I did was make a template for any trimming that I needed to do.
The main reason for this was I was going to fit the sub below the drivers seat. It was a close fit with the sub on the carpet, so I thought if I made a cut out for it to sit in then it would just fit. But it didn't
Be very carful before you get busy with the Stanley knife, as you can see here, there is often cables lurking behind carpet and soundproofing. Check before you hack.
As this didn't work, I replaced the carpet cutout and sought a new hiding place for the sub. After a while of placing it here and there I decided to try and fit it behind the arm rest.
I removed the T-bar cover and rear part of the cubby and I cut out enough of the carpet and soundproofing to give a bit more clearance.
I then placed the sub in position and closed the arm rest to see if it was feasable. It wasn't a perfect fit but was close enough that I knew a bit of trimming would sort it.
I then fitted some Dynamat, as a tribute to Lucky. Actually, it was just to replace the soundproofing that I had cut out. I didn't want to hear the engine above the sub.
I then secured the sub into it's final resting place with some heavy duty velcro sheets.
And then offered the plastic housing of the cubby box up so that I could mark it and trim it to shape. I trimmed a chunk of each side and trimmed out the main storage part of the box. The smaller storage space has remained. The photo was taken before I cleaned it up with a file. I also trimmed a small amount off the back of the centre tunnel. Just behind where the arm rest screws on.
The cubby box was then screwed back in place over the sub. The wires were fed down the drivers side of the tunnel and connected to the head unit. Here you can see the blue/white remote cable (switches the sub on when the head unit is switched on) and the phono connections.
So, I decided to mount mine behind the armrest. This means that I lose a small storage space, but to be honest, I never really used it as it was insecure and things tended to fall out when you opened it.
The first thing I did was make a template for any trimming that I needed to do.
The main reason for this was I was going to fit the sub below the drivers seat. It was a close fit with the sub on the carpet, so I thought if I made a cut out for it to sit in then it would just fit. But it didn't
Be very carful before you get busy with the Stanley knife, as you can see here, there is often cables lurking behind carpet and soundproofing. Check before you hack.
As this didn't work, I replaced the carpet cutout and sought a new hiding place for the sub. After a while of placing it here and there I decided to try and fit it behind the arm rest.
I removed the T-bar cover and rear part of the cubby and I cut out enough of the carpet and soundproofing to give a bit more clearance.
I then placed the sub in position and closed the arm rest to see if it was feasable. It wasn't a perfect fit but was close enough that I knew a bit of trimming would sort it.
I then fitted some Dynamat, as a tribute to Lucky. Actually, it was just to replace the soundproofing that I had cut out. I didn't want to hear the engine above the sub.
I then secured the sub into it's final resting place with some heavy duty velcro sheets.
And then offered the plastic housing of the cubby box up so that I could mark it and trim it to shape. I trimmed a chunk of each side and trimmed out the main storage part of the box. The smaller storage space has remained. The photo was taken before I cleaned it up with a file. I also trimmed a small amount off the back of the centre tunnel. Just behind where the arm rest screws on.
The cubby box was then screwed back in place over the sub. The wires were fed down the drivers side of the tunnel and connected to the head unit. Here you can see the blue/white remote cable (switches the sub on when the head unit is switched on) and the phono connections.