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Rover 45 TD will not start

7K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  colbex 
#1 ·
Hi,

Hope someone can help on this….

I’ve got a Rover 45 turbo diesel (2000 year) that’s refusing to start…

The problem began when I was driving home – I had driven about 200 yards when I pulled out from behind some parked cars and the engine stalled. Coasted to a stop, I re-started it (very rough) but it cut-out again…..hasn’t started since.

The nice AA man came and checked fuel pressure at injectors (=OK), bled any air from fuel system (=OK), checked connectors (=OK) and all fuses/relays (=OK)…but couldn’t find problem, so had to be towed home.

Mobile mechanic came out next day and did similar checks and concluded it was probably the crankshaft sensor – which he replaced, but it still wouldn’t start…

Diagnostic man traced a fault to the fuel injection pump (solenoid valve?-not sure) and No.1 cylinder injector sensor. He thought the car should still run if it was the injector sensor, so I guess fuel injection pump is the prime suspect…££££!!!!

What concerns me though is that the central locking has gone wobbly at the same time (press fob key to lock and its locks ok, but immediately ‘bounces’ open again(all doors are shut)). Also, the rear screen heater has stopped working.
I thought this might be result of AA man getting a bit over-zealous with the fuses/relay checking but I’ve re-checked them and they all seem fine…

I don’t was to spend big on a fuel injection pump until I’m sure its not something else (ecu?)

Any help / advice would be appreciated!

Thanks.
 
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#5 ·
Thanks - The earths looked O.K. -but I'll re-check the earths tommorrow.

Is it worth disconnecting battery (leave a few hours disconnected) to see if that re-sets anything (I'm wondering if the central lockings got confused somehow) - problem is the immobiliser - can't find the cars handbook/ codes...do I need the immobilier code or will key fob re-set it.

Also, car fires when spraying easy-start into air intake, but stalls as soon as stop spraying so its definately fuel related.


"if its the L series 2.0 turbo diesel same as a 220 SDI i have a pump sitting here..."

Thanks -but mines a Rover 45 (2000 year) - which is when they introduced the higher pressure VP30 pump - thanks anyway!
 
#10 ·
I had a problem with my fuel pump timing solenoid with my car last year (2.0L TD). Only had the car 3 months, garage told me I used some bad fuel and wouldn't do anything.

After searching on here and speaking to a local pump mechanic, found out you can change the solenoid without having to change the pump. In the end, the solenoid cost £50 and I think another £50 or £75 for a mechanic to fit it. I believe it was a tricky job but he managed to do it without even taking the pump out. And while he was at it the connection on number 1 injector totally fell apart and he fixed that as well. Car went very much better after both jobs done.

That said, I didn't have any real problems with the engine even with the pump fault. If i recall correctly there's another solenoid in the pump thats more like an on/off one??? Worth checking it out before getting a new pump.
 
#11 ·
You don't know where I can get the parts do you? I have a pump or too here that would make some rover-members very happy if we could put some life back in them. (same failure).

Disassembling pumps is tricky, but i'm getting the hang of it, would be nice if we could get a decent solution to tractor syndrome in check, for not too bad a cost!
 
#15 · (Edited)
I got mine locally (in Northern Ireland) from Tommy Wright, tel 028 2563 9400. I'm sure if you check around you may be able to get someone closer with the part. But Tommy does know his stuff.

Replacing the part is apparently easy enough, its just getting access to the solenoid is the problem. Basically its as simple as undo the two screws, cut the wires, and solder the new wires on and fit the new solenoid! My mechanic said he had to work from above and below and cleared away some of the surrounding pipework to get in at it. Just be sure your working at the right one, and that it is that solenoid thats faulty!

The timing solenoid is part 12. The most awkward one!

 
#16 · (Edited)
If it's a case of cutting wires, then I have a solenoid if someone wants to attempt a repair. I considered it fubarred because I cut the wires to make diassembling it easier (was more interested in the plunger mech at the time).

Anyone got a duff pump that wants to play guniea pig in cost effective repair? ;)
 
#22 ·
doesn't sound too bad tbh, considering you have to (well you should!) replace the head seal just for taking it apart for a look, though chances are they'l just whack it on a diagnostic machine and have it print out a list of compnents, labelling each 'G' or 'F' (Good or Foooooked)

It all takes time though, so it's fair enough to pay that fee, good luck with the repair.

If anyone has some genuinely dead vp30's though, I am personally interested in buying some of the moneys low enough to warrant me spending my limited modding budged on research into fixing pumps that have nothing to do with my own car. If it is viable it's not something I mind doing. (I'd probably enjoy it tbh).
 
#23 ·
Spooky !!! I was just about to create a new thread "My fuel pump is fecked" when i spotted this thread. My 45 td has been getting increasingly hard to start over the last few weeks with clouds of white smoke when turning over. It's had knackered MAF symptoms since I bought it even though it has a brand new PB + MAFAM i.e. won't rev over 3800 rpm & shockingly low on power. Ron's theory was that the timing solenoid was on its way out. Now, after running out of diesel last night it won't start at all. We've even tried to bump start it at 40mph in 3rd (towing) but nothing doing :(
It will run when spraying easy start or whatever it's called straight into the air intake but as soon as you stop spraying it cuts out. There is fuel getting to the injectors but I'm not sure whether it's under enough pressure, we didn't completely remove the injectors, just enough for diesel to spit out the top of them. 2 mechanics have now looked at it & they both reckon the pump is knackered :(
 
#24 ·
You don't feel up to being a guinea pig for repair do you? lol. (All in the name of science, and possibly cheaper/more convenient repairs in the future!)

New pumps off ebay are several hundred quid :eek:

(though I think from the sounds of it your mafam must be incorrectly installed or something as you also have the symptoms of a completely dead maf).
 
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