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Old 27-07-2011, 00:46   #101
tom dalton
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In line stat

Have you any renault part no for stat,as I would like to try it on mine,...................Tom.
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Old 27-07-2011, 10:56   #102
martincl
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Sorry no Renault number. I just ordered from my local car shop a stat for a 1.4 renault 5.

If they know their stuff it's a distinctive part having the brass tube around it.
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Old 27-07-2011, 12:20   #103
Tony Duffield
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[QUOTE=T-Cut;4081744]I realise this is a one step at a time process, but why the 90C target? These engines will produce best performance at 95-100C, like the petrols. If you do establish a 90C system, I'd take it further to where the optimal point lies, but so far so good.

TC

I have just changed the thermostat in my R75, I had thought for some time that it was stuck open and it was, once cleaned out it closed but as I had a new stat anyway I used the new one, incidentally both stats are marked 88 deg C.

I am sure you chaps already know this; the purpose of a thermostat in any engine is to maintain the optimum temperature to ensure optimum efficiency. Heat is generated when the engine works ie load, my engine would cool down in winter when load was reduced; it cooled down because too much coolant was going to the radiator.

Once an engine is up to temperature and the stat is operating normally, jacket water temperature will be maintained plus or minus a few degrees at what the stat is set at.

Regards what temperature the R75 diesel should run at, if BMW fit 88 deg C stats then I would hesitate to run them any hotter.

Tony
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Old 14-08-2011, 08:48   #104
martincl
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A quick update to my Renault 5 stat fitment.

I returned home last night from an 8-day 1,046 miles trip to Europe.
The car behaved impeccably throughout. MPG much, much improved, although I did carry out a service and replaced an injector in addition so the gains will be due to a combination of factors. I do believe the stat has played a major part though.

On screen MPG was 52mpg at one point. That's at least 11mpg higher than ever seen before!

When I filled up the display was 40mpg, when calculated it was actually 44mpg. That's a Conn Tourer auto with 4 adults and back full of luggage, touring narrow country lanes for much of the time.

I'm happy with that.
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Old 15-08-2011, 15:48   #105
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sounds good i'll be fitting that renault stat i've got then..
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Old 15-08-2011, 20:13   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Duffield View Post

I am sure you chaps already know this; the purpose of a thermostat in any engine is to maintain the optimum temperature to ensure optimum efficiency. Heat is generated when the engine works ie load, my engine would cool down in winter when load was reduced; it cooled down because too much coolant was going to the radiator.

Once an engine is up to temperature and the stat is operating normally, jacket water temperature will be maintained plus or minus a few degrees at what the stat is set at.

Regards what temperature the R75 diesel should run at, if BMW fit 88 deg C stats then I would hesitate to run them any hotter.

Tony
Tony there is a bit more to it with the M47R diesel engine. These engines are very thermally efficient and if driven on light loads struggle to get up to temperature. This why they were fitted with a fuel burning heater, until the cost cutting Project Drive, to assist with warm up and aid passenger heating in cold weather.

The BMW design engineers responsible for the M47R are on record as stating that on light engine loads fitting a hotter thermostat will make no difference as there is no more heat to be had. However some owners have experimented with different thermostats hoping to allow their engines to run hotter and more efficiently.

An indication of how thermally efficient these engines are is when the radiator fan fails. In the UK climate you won't notice any difference unless you use the aircon which shares the same cooling fan. Even in summer in long traffic jams where you would expect to overheat nothing happens at all.

Mike
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Old 16-08-2011, 22:35   #107
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As regular followers of this and similar threads will know, I'm a bit of a lone voice regarding the need to get diesels hot. I bandy 95-105°C around as optimal, but many here would scream 'overheat' if it happened to their engine and pull over for a bit.
Anyway as you may know, here's a similar thread running on the other channel and I'm on my own there too (temperature wise). So, I was pleased to read a new contibutor to the diesel temperature debate and I'm sure he won't mind me quoting his first post to that particular thread.

Karlglund's post:
This is one subject I know very well is diesel engines...

For a diesel engine to get its best peak proformance it has to run as hot as it can without overheating the engine coolant..that is why you have to make sure your coolant is mixed correctly half and half exactly..

- - - living in Canada all trucks and cars with diesel engines we would change the thermostat twice a year one for summer and one for winter..a higher degree thermo. for winter and 10 to 20 degrees lower for summer...we never use specs for the truck or car - - -

You want that engine to run as hot as possible...this way you get the best preformance from it.

I talk to my father for we own diesel trucks and have several diesel cars back home he said best is 203 degree or higher fahrenhite..thermostat for a diesel engine to get the best fuel milage and preformance.

In Canada our winters can go as low as minus 40 to 45 without wind chill so running an oem spec thermostat for any diesel would not make the cut...we run our deisels engines so hot that we do cook on them.. and no it does not hurt the engine..

(Unquote)

203°F = 95°C

I've read US and Canadian trucker forums and it is clear that high temperature give better fuel consumption and general engine efficiency. These guys need every yard they can get from a gallon. It's also bourne out by the physics, but that's a harder hill on which to push the story.

Simplistically: Engine hardware hot as pos. - Inlet air cold as pos.
I also know some truckers run neat propylene glycol as coolant in a sealed system. That will go way above standard EG/water mix.

TC

Last edited by T-Cut; 16-08-2011 at 22:41.
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Old 16-08-2011, 23:25   #108
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Doesn't the old trick of covering the rad front to lessen cooling and so also reducing outside air cooling of the block work? I've known this done a lot in colder regions of the US.
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Old 17-08-2011, 15:01   #109
wuzerk
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Rad covering

For half the time during the winter months the diesel temperature never even reaches the stats opening temperature! The 75 diesel thermostat does not stick open, it gradually starts to open at a lower temperature as it ages.
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Old 17-08-2011, 16:08   #110
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For situations like that, a ball valve in the heater loop would allow you to get the engine hot by controlling flow through the interior radiator. With control of that loop, I'd predict it would hit any temperature you'd like.

TC
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Old 19-08-2011, 23:11   #111
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Can't argue with the logic, but in practise in the depths of winter I'd sooner keep meself warm and the windscreen defrosted than worry about the engine being a tad chilly!

Having read of all the problems with the diesel thermostats I've been expecting mine to give up but it is in its eleventh year and still doesn't appear to work any different from when new.

Mike

Last edited by Mike Noc; 19-08-2011 at 23:18.
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Old 20-08-2011, 08:48   #112
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Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
Can't argue with the logic, but in practise in the depths of winter I'd sooner keep meself warm and the windscreen defrosted than worry about the engine being a tad chilly!
I suspect a lower flow of very hot water would make for better heating than a high flow of luke warm. It just needs someone to run the experiment I guess.

TC
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Old 03-12-2011, 09:57   #113
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guys hello there, i found this thread via google, i was searching inline thermostat housing. I have an audi a4 2.5 tdi v6 quattro sport. Anyhow the thermostat is faulty, my temps are low and so is the heater air is only mildly warm. To change the thermostat on this engine it requires the front off the car and a full timing belt removal just to change the thermostat which is a huge expensive job on this v6. I sounds bizzare but i have had a couple of audi mechanice tell me this on the audi forum so its sound information.

anyway this is interesting, i had a brainwave of fitting an inline thermostat housing and i stubled upon this thread. so is this CHEVY INLINE THERMOSTAT HOUSING the best you have found to use? Is there nothing in the uk. I found this on ebay clicky could it be adapted ??

cheers
rab
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Old 03-12-2011, 17:50   #114
Mintee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mystic.bertie View Post
anyway this is interesting, i had a brainwave of fitting an inline thermostat housing and i stubled upon this thread. so is this CHEVY INLINE THERMOSTAT HOUSING the best you have found to use? Is there nothing in the uk. I found this on ebay clicky could it be adapted ??
You are on your own here as a Rover/BMW engine is not the same as what you have and I know I am not qualified to give you any particular advice as to if it'll work - but you'll need to know the internal diameter of your hose to be sure to get something to fit (I'd grab an old one of a scrap car to cut and measure).

Then look at the various internal thermostats that are now being used on Rovers as if you can find one the right size for your hose you are laughing as they are only a tenner or so. But I have found the Mezere housing to be an ideal solution for my problem albeit somewhat more expensive!
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Old 03-12-2011, 18:08   #115
wuzerk
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meziere HOUSING

MYSTIC BERTIE: I am the person who fitted the Meziere thermostat housing over 14 months ago and I have had no problems since. If a housing could be fitted in the
top hose of your car you would need to ascertain which size inlet and outlet
you needed and Meziere would happily supply what you require (the Rover top hose is tapered so requires different inlet and outlets). Their housing is a quality item which accepts any standard diameter thermostat (2.125"). It works out as somewhat expensive due to postage costs and possible import tax but once fitted will give no problems. Their price for the thermostats are very cheap.

Last edited by wuzerk; 03-12-2011 at 18:40.
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Old 04-12-2011, 16:55   #116
mystic.bertie
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You are on your own here as a Rover/BMW engine is not the same as what you have and I know I am not qualified to give you any particular advice as to if it'll work - but you'll need to know the internal diameter of your hose to be sure to get something to fit (I'd grab an old one of a scrap car to cut and measure).

Then look at the various internal thermostats that are now being used on Rovers as if you can find one the right size for your hose you are laughing as they are only a tenner or so. But I have found the Mezere housing to be an ideal solution for my problem albeit somewhat more expensive!
cheers for the reply matey, i can easily pop off the hose and measure the diameter with calipers, ie the outlet pipe outer dia. whether it will fit those rover ones on ebay i dont know but i can maybe adapt them to fit if there is a slight difference in size. i just think it might look pants so the Mezere ones might look more oem for when i sell the car. I still need to feel the hoses warming up to find out which one heats up first so i know thats the feed in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wuzerk View Post
MYSTIC BERTIE: I am the person who fitted the Meziere thermostat housing over 14 months ago and I have had no problems since. If a housing could be fitted in the
top hose of your car you would need to ascertain which size inlet and outlet
you needed and Meziere would happily supply what you require (the Rover top hose is tapered so requires different inlet and outlets). Their housing is a quality item which accepts any standard diameter thermostat (2.125"). It works out as somewhat expensive due to postage costs and possible import tax but once fitted will give no problems. Their price for the thermostats are very cheap.
The Mezere one looks much better i agree and it looks well made, i may just bite the bullet and go for it, i just thought id see if there was any cheaper options first. Ill also need to check what the temp rating is on the audi thermostat.
I read somewhere folk had bolted 2 thermostat housings together to make a make-shift inline housing, quite a good idea but it would look shíte lol.
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Old 05-12-2011, 00:30   #117
tom dalton
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In line thermostat

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Originally Posted by mystic.bertie View Post
cheers for the reply matey, i can easily pop off the hose and measure the diameter with calipers, ie the outlet pipe outer dia. whether it will fit those rover ones on ebay i dont know but i can maybe adapt them to fit if there is a slight difference in size. i just think it might look pants so the Mezere ones might look more oem for when i sell the car. I still need to feel the hoses warming up to find out which one heats up first so i know thats the feed in.



The Mezere one looks much better i agree and it looks well made, i may just bite the bullet and go for it, i just thought id see if there was any cheaper options first. Ill also need to check what the temp rating is on the audi thermostat.
I read somewhere folk had bolted 2 thermostat housings together to make a make-shift inline housing, quite a good idea but it would look shíte lol.
My local 1 man garage done my in line thermostat last friday,he removed the top hose took it to his workbench,with the help of hot water and liquid soap the Renault 4 thermostat just slid into the hose,Car now runs at normal temperature...........Tom
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Old 05-12-2011, 18:09   #118
mystic.bertie
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My local 1 man garage done my in line thermostat last friday,he removed the top hose took it to his workbench,with the help of hot water and liquid soap the Renault 4 thermostat just slid into the hose,Car now runs at normal temperature...........Tom
is this is and not does this work in an inline situation, i can only see the one pipe.
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Old 06-12-2011, 00:21   #119
tom dalton
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In line thermostat

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Originally Posted by mystic.bertie View Post
is this is and not does this work in an inline situation, i can only see the one pipe.
I dont really understand your question,but i will do my best to try and explain the way my conversion was carried out,the version you are thinking of fitting requires you to cut into your top hose and fit the sleeve with the thermostat inside it,then rejoin the hose. My way is done by releasing the hose from the engine and fitting a selected thermostat inside the hose, then refitting the hose back,the thermostat I had fitted was a renault 4 which fitted neat inside the hose using some hot water and washing up liquid no adjustment to the thermostat, ie filing outside to reduce size was needed,hope this explains what you are looking for. I used the 89o version,cost about £10,half hour to do...........Tom.
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Old 06-12-2011, 15:26   #120
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I dont really understand your question,but i will do my best to try and explain the way my conversion was carried out,the version you are thinking of fitting requires you to cut into your top hose and fit the sleeve with the thermostat inside it,then rejoin the hose. My way is done by releasing the hose from the engine and fitting a selected thermostat inside the hose, then refitting the hose back,the thermostat I had fitted was a renault 4 which fitted neat inside the hose using some hot water and washing up liquid no adjustment to the thermostat, ie filing outside to reduce size was needed,hope this explains what you are looking for. I used the 89o version,cost about £10,half hour to do...........Tom.
thanks tom, thats quite clever but yet simple which i like, i did not realize it was just the actual thermostat you used so i take it you just find one that is a good tight fit inside the coolant hose thats feeds the radiator. the good thing about that is it will leave the hose looking original. So ill need to get the diameter of my hose first. cheers mate
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