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#21 | |
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Supporter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: S.E. Northumberland Car: MGless, Sherman the B Series Frontera
Posts: 1,118
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Quote:
![]() Only joking! that's a pretty serious fail though |
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#22 |
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Supporter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: S.E. Northumberland Car: MGless, Sherman the B Series Frontera
Posts: 1,118
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#24 |
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Supporter
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I've just broken my subframe, and I bought a bare subframe it is in good condition, but now that I have it bare in the shed I should do some kind of work? I was just planning to paint it with dynitrol...
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#25 |
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Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northants Car: MGF Trophy 160SE ROVER 211 project
Posts: 961
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The rear subframe on my Trophy was bent and rusty. In 2010, I brought a complete subframe with all the suspension parts for £25!
Dismantled, stripped (using heatgun, wirebrushes, etc) and 8etch primed, and hammerited the subframe, it took over a month. The labour cost of changing the rear subframe was £500, but I had a bit of welding, new clutch and arm, new cat, polybushes, new front wishbones, droplink, etc all replaced at the same time. Since then, I have had the hydragas units replaced, as well as cambelt and head gasket etc. I do clean and waxoyled all crevises underneath the car every winter, the MOT inspector was impressed!
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![]() see link to our European Trip below from July 2012 http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=438771 |
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#26 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Swindon Car: Modified death trap
Posts: 4,901
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I'm fortunate in that I have other car(s) to drive whilst my F is up on axle stands. As I'm still trying to source a TF 160 engine I'm in no rush to finish my car, so can spend some time sorting my subframes properly.
Yes the costs for stripping/treating/painting aint cheap, coupled with poly bushing, replacing ball joints, new calipers, brake pipes etc. But with both subframes done this way I should have trouble free motoring for next few years, plus I'll know exactly what I've got under the car Oh and whilst the subframes out, replace all the bolts and fit the solid type subframe mounts Allan |
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#27 |
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MERSEYSIDE MEET FOUNDER
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: ROCK FERRY, WIRRAL Car: 25X 200X MGF-X6 400X Rep:■■■■■□□□□□
Posts: 33,680
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I decent second hand unit would prob be more cost effective then treat it yourself before fitting.
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The MAY MERSEYSIDE MEET & TUNNEL RUN 8 - 05/05/13 MG-ROVER - MERSEYSIDE facebook PAGE The 25X Custom Engine Build Thread QUOTE of the MONTH: |
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#28 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Cornwall Car: MGF
Posts: 93
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Don't get involved in paint - unless you remove ALL traces of rust it will be back in no time. scrape off all flaky rust ( a file ground to a chisel point is ideal) then waxoyl it thickly inside and out with black waxoyl.
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#29 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Swindon Car: Modified death trap
Posts: 4,901
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Just had mine done in Birmingham.. £90 for the pair.. Including priming
110% rust free... You can't sand every inch by hand.. And would take forever..
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