MG-Rover.org Forums banner

Land Rover Head Gasket

3K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  mgf36 
#1 ·
Hi all
Have any of you fitted the Land Rover head gasket, if so wahat success have you had. Do I have to fit the new style oil rail or can I leave the original one in. I noticed on the BBS site that an ex powertrain engineer says that changing the oil rail was white wash just to shut Fords up during the bad press at the time. Or shall I stick to the original MGR gasket, reason of asking is oil has just stared creaping into the epansion tank yet no loss of water yet.
Many thanks
 
#2 ·
Welcome

Take a look at this thread: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=110090

I have seen it stated that the new rail and long bolts should be changed if the LR gasket is used. The LR is too new to be known if it works so in many ways there are no guarantees that it will be any better then the MGR MK3 gasket that has very few reported failures in the last 3 or 4 years that its been used.
 
#3 ·
Hi Chris
I can see your point, but just this lunch time (in the pub) my son has been talking to a bloke who has suggested the Lotas elise head gasket, could be another obtion but not shore about that as I have never heard anything about the Lotus option on any of the MG BBS sites.

Cheers
Bri
 
#4 ·
i had the LR head gasket changed over a few months back. if u do a search in the mgf section you should see a load of pics fo the change over, including comparison pics of the OEM MG HG and the LR HG.
def need to get the oirl rail done as well. only costs about £20-30 IIRC, so much better to get sorted rather than face a possible bill for head removal again at a later date.

Best Auto Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
 
#5 · (Edited)
Just completed HG repair on my Freelander,

Used the LR gasket and did not bother with new rail, dealer did mention that LR recommend changing it at the same time.

I had the sump off during the repair to re-seal the sump due to minor oil leak. Oil rail looked normal no cracks as shown in the above thread suggested by Chris T.

I re-used the old cylinder head bolts, tightened to 20Nm phase 1, followed by the 180 degree turn phase 2 and 3. I kept the bolts in their original positions.

Haynes manual suggested that the bolt for the automatic tensioner for timing belt should be replaced. I went to order a bolt from the LR dealership and to my amazement thay had never sold one according to their system/records.

I also noticed that they had the sealant kit for the cam carrier to cylinder head, a bit steep at £40. Another recommendation by LR but not necessary.

I used Comma sealant and job is a goodin. Used it sparingly so as not to block the oil rail for the cams and cleaned the head faces with celulose thinners, although nail polish remover will do the same thing. Car is running well after several weeks of driving.

Also checked my thermostat (old style) it didnt open until 95oC, possibly the cause of the HGF. New stats open at 88oC therefore easing the thermal load on the cylinders, so worth checking when replacing HG
 
#11 ·
LR Head Gasket

Sorry for late reply, been working away this week.
many thanks gents for the info, I think I shall stick to the Mk 3 gasket and see how it lasts out.
The small amount of water loss I suspect is coming from the heater area as it only loose water when the heater is on, if left on cold, no water loss. The HG still needs doing as the oil in the expansion tank is still increasing, there is no mayo on the dipstick.
Doing the job in the next couple of weeks so shall report back on what I find.
Going on holiday tomorrow so talk to you gents when I get back

thanks
Bri (MGF36)
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top