Right this is swiped from the Xpower forum
original Author Sheddist so all credit to him as it a damn good howto
lets grow this into a Vis Valve and Manifold Howto
Sheddist Said
"Thanks to Aldon, who donated a dead actuator to the cause. Here is what this is all about:
[/IMG]
These are a bit of a pain to get apart and is about the longest part of the process.
First, ease back the clips
[/IMG]
Then using a thin, wide blade,
[/IMG]
gradually prise the cover away from the housing. It will not come off at this stage
[/IMG]
Cut a suitable piece of wood or metal to fit right inside the electrical connector
[/IMG]
Then push the connector blades and cover apart. This requires a fair bit of force and don't worry if a blade bends or pulls out of the circuit board. When the cover is off the motor internals with the worm gear removed look like this
[/IMG]
One or both of the two black limit switches is likely to be loose. This is due to poor location resulting in broken soldered joints. The next stage is to remove the circuit board. First, prise out the worm. Take care not to loose the washer off the end of the worm shaft. Use a wide flat blade to spread the load and unclip the worm, bringing the motor and PCB with it.
[/IMG]
At this stage the switch terminals can just be resoldered and the actuator put back together, only to fail again. You can improve matters by screwing the swtiches down. You will need a 1,8mm drill, 8BA tap and 8BA by 1/4 inch screws. Or use 2mm if you prefer metric! These can all be obtained from http://www.mainlytrains.co.uk/acatalog/index.html
Just do a search for 8BA and then for the drill.
Drill out the switch pegs with the 1,8 drill
[/IMG]
Tap the holes
[/IMG]
and fit the screws. TAKE CARE TO ENSURE THE SCREWS DO NOT SHORT OUT 2 PCB TRACKS. FILE A FLAT ON THE SCREW HEAD TO AVOID THIS.
[/IMG]
Once the screws are fitted, resolder the switch terminals.
Remove the old sealing bead from the case joint and apply new sealer. I use blue Hylomar
[/IMG]
Reassemble the parts, taking care to clip the motor and worm in together, not forgetting the washer.
Fit the worm wheel so that neither switch is operated- both white switch plungers are not pushed in by the cam, then fit the cover.
I have a test box to test these things - another "how to" coming for this.
Before refitting, plug the actuator into the wiring harness and turn on the ignition- dont try to start the car. This will reset the actuator. Align the actuator output to the manifold slider, and secure with the 4 screws. Start up and check for air leaks, the screws need to be tight and you may have to add a bit more sealer around the actuator joints.
Take a test drive"
original Author Sheddist so all credit to him as it a damn good howto
lets grow this into a Vis Valve and Manifold Howto
Sheddist Said
"Thanks to Aldon, who donated a dead actuator to the cause. Here is what this is all about:
These are a bit of a pain to get apart and is about the longest part of the process.
First, ease back the clips
Then using a thin, wide blade,
gradually prise the cover away from the housing. It will not come off at this stage
Cut a suitable piece of wood or metal to fit right inside the electrical connector
Then push the connector blades and cover apart. This requires a fair bit of force and don't worry if a blade bends or pulls out of the circuit board. When the cover is off the motor internals with the worm gear removed look like this
One or both of the two black limit switches is likely to be loose. This is due to poor location resulting in broken soldered joints. The next stage is to remove the circuit board. First, prise out the worm. Take care not to loose the washer off the end of the worm shaft. Use a wide flat blade to spread the load and unclip the worm, bringing the motor and PCB with it.
At this stage the switch terminals can just be resoldered and the actuator put back together, only to fail again. You can improve matters by screwing the swtiches down. You will need a 1,8mm drill, 8BA tap and 8BA by 1/4 inch screws. Or use 2mm if you prefer metric! These can all be obtained from http://www.mainlytrains.co.uk/acatalog/index.html
Just do a search for 8BA and then for the drill.
Drill out the switch pegs with the 1,8 drill
Tap the holes
and fit the screws. TAKE CARE TO ENSURE THE SCREWS DO NOT SHORT OUT 2 PCB TRACKS. FILE A FLAT ON THE SCREW HEAD TO AVOID THIS.
Once the screws are fitted, resolder the switch terminals.
Remove the old sealing bead from the case joint and apply new sealer. I use blue Hylomar
Reassemble the parts, taking care to clip the motor and worm in together, not forgetting the washer.
Fit the worm wheel so that neither switch is operated- both white switch plungers are not pushed in by the cam, then fit the cover.
I have a test box to test these things - another "how to" coming for this.
Before refitting, plug the actuator into the wiring harness and turn on the ignition- dont try to start the car. This will reset the actuator. Align the actuator output to the manifold slider, and secure with the 4 screws. Start up and check for air leaks, the screws need to be tight and you may have to add a bit more sealer around the actuator joints.
Take a test drive"