Mafs And Mafam: Faqs

[SDI_Tim]

Originally Posted by Terminator 2

I think all 25's / ZR's have good pulling power from 2,000rpm - 3,000rpm and after 3,000 rpm its awful - mine is anyway so i just keep it between 2-3,000rpm in each gear..

Yours has Sdi injectors doesn't it, so is not the same as a standard 25/ZR. When standard (101bhp) my ZR pulled well up to about 3500rpm, now it's remapped it goes well upto about 4000rpm.

[p_b82]

my ZS at standard (ish) is best between 2-3K but it will still pull quite strongly through to 4K if i ask it to...

I usually only rev it that high in forth pulling onto a Mway tho as i think it is better to make use of the torque in the higher gear so tend to change at 3K... it causes me to save a couple of drops of fuel in the process

Pete

[Terminator 2]

Hi Ron, i recently installed a k4.80 green cotton open cone air filter (which i dint pre-oil i just installed it straight out of the box) to my ZR and after 2 weeks my MAF quit (my mechanic removed it to find oil on it), i have one of your MAFAM's already installed..

I am wondering where to go from here (at the minute i have a different model MAF on my car to tide me by until i get a new proper MAF)..

My original MAF was a Bosch one from flee bay which has been on the car for nearly 9 months, i just got your MAFAM about 4 weeks ago..

So could it be your MAFAM or the open cone air filter that caused my MAF to die (oil all over it)??

Also what are the "security bits" for sale in your shop for £6.50 for the Pierburg MAF??

Thanks

[Rover_ron]

Originally Posted by Terminator 2

Hi Ron, i recently installed a k4.80 green cotton open cone air filter (which i dint pre-oil i just installed it straight out of the box) to my ZR and after 2 weeks my MAF quit (my mechanic removed it to find oil on it), i have one of your MAFAM's already installed..

I am wondering where to go from here (at the minute i have a different model MAF on my car to tide me by until i get a new proper MAF)..

My original MAF was a Bosch one from flee bay which has been on the car for nearly 9 months, i just got your MAFAM about 4 weeks ago..

So could it be your MAFAM or the open cone air filter that caused my MAF to die (oil all over it)??

Also what are the "security bits" for sale in your shop for £6.50 for the Pierburg MAF??

Thanks

If the filter wasn't oiled then the oil can't have come from there.
The mafam is hardly going to be responsible so there is probably oil back flowing from the intake system due to crankcase fumes.
Check that the breather valve is working properly (remove and clean it) - its the circular thing in the turbo inlet duct along from the maf with a pipe to the top of the cam cover. (some people divert the pipe to a catch tank)

A pierburgh maf is probably your best bet.

The security bits fit the maf sensor screws so it can be removed without having to change the whole housing. (eg when fitting a Pierburgh maf)

Ron

[Terminator 2]

Originally Posted by Rover_ron

If the filter wasn't oiled then the oil can't have come from there.
The mafam is hardly going to be responsible so there is probably oil back flowing from the intake system due to crankcase fumes.
Check that the breather valve is working properly (remove and clean it) - its the circular thing in the turbo inlet duct along from the maf with a pipe to the top of the cam cover. (some people divert the pipe to a catch tank)

A pierburgh maf is probably your best bet.

The security bits fit the maf sensor screws so it can be removed without having to change the whole housing. (eg when fitting a Pierburgh maf)

Ron

So if i buy a Pierburgh MAF of you and fit an oil catch tank / air breather kit then i should be sorted, my MAF & MAFAM should work perfectly (i.e. giving me the best fuel economy i can hope for and performance) for the next 6 months at least?

Cheers Ron

[Terminator 2]

What setting does the MAFAM need to be set to for a Pierburgh MAF (almost maximum is it)?

Cheers Ronian

[James]

Originally Posted by Rover_ron

If the filter wasn't oiled then the oil can't have come from there.
The mafam is hardly going to be responsible so there is probably oil back flowing from the intake system due to crankcase fumes.
Check that the breather valve is working properly (remove and clean it) - its the circular thing in the turbo inlet duct along from the maf with a pipe to the top of the cam cover. (some people divert the pipe to a catch tank)

A pierburgh maf is probably your best bet.

The security bits fit the maf sensor screws so it can be removed without having to change the whole housing. (eg when fitting a Pierburgh maf)

Ron

Not saying that it wasnt the breather valve, but arent those filters pre-oiled when you buy them? If so, it could just be that the oil from the filter broke the maf. When i first put on my K&N panel filter (pre-oiled) the maf got worse. If ever i put a different pre-oiled filter on the car (cone or whatever) i will put my duff maf on and give it a run to make sure the oil doesnt blow off onto a decent one, that and/or put the filter under an air line and try blow any oil off it before putting it on the car.

Cheers, James

[xtreeeem]

hi ron

After one hell of a bad few months with my car starting with needing to replace the maf sensor leading to hydrolocking the car, i made a possible important discovery and thought it only fair to put the word out.
once my maf was replaced i asked to keep the old one so icould experiment around with it....I actually put it in the dish washer it now works better than the new one. i stumbled across this idea after finding out the reason for the maf's dieing is due to dirty fumes coming back from the engine side and fouling the sensor....so this could save £££ my new sensor cost £250..ie finding the fault plus labour etc. etc.
I do hope this helps and you can pass it on

[Rover_ron]

Originally Posted by xtreeeem

hi ron

After one hell of a bad few months with my car starting with needing to replace the maf sensor leading to hydrolocking the car, i made a possible important discovery and thought it only fair to put the word out.
once my maf was replaced i asked to keep the old one so icould experiment around with it....I actually put it in the dish washer it now works better than the new one. i stumbled across this idea after finding out the reason for the maf's dieing is due to dirty fumes coming back from the engine side and fouling the sensor....so this could save £££ my new sensor cost £250..ie finding the fault plus labour etc. etc.
I do hope this helps and you can pass it on

I think you are having a laugh!

Would you put your mobile phone in the dishwasher - its no more waterproof than a maf!
I think the only reason the maf seems to work is that it probably isn't and the ecu is ignoring it and using backup values.

Ron

[E_T_V]

Originally Posted by xtreeeem

hi ron

After one hell of a bad few months with my car starting with needing to replace the maf sensor leading to hydrolocking the car, i made a possible important discovery and thought it only fair to put the word out.
once my maf was replaced i asked to keep the old one so icould experiment around with it....I actually put it in the dish washer it now works better than the new one. i stumbled across this idea after finding out the reason for the maf's dieing is due to dirty fumes coming back from the engine side and fouling the sensor....so this could save £££ my new sensor cost £250..ie finding the fault plus labour etc. etc.
I do hope this helps and you can pass it on

A duff maf sensor won't cause the engine to hydaulicly lock.

More likely water got in locking the engine and damaging the MAF sensor.

MAF sensors won't take kindly to being dishwashed or any other sort of water washing for that matter.

As ron has said, the ECU now knows it is totally duff and so is substituting default values which gives good low down power but very little power at the top of the rev range.

[markiboy]

Hi Ron,

Will a Maf from a 25/45 fit a 75 cdti please?

[Rover_ron]

Originally Posted by markiboy

Hi Ron,

Will a Maf from a 25/45 fit a 75 cdti please?

No, completely different.

Ron

[markiboy]

Originally Posted by Rover_ron

No, completely different.

Ron

Ok, thanks mate.

[petie]

hi there can you give me a price on a mafam for a r25 101 td please inc postage please

[SDI_Tim]

See here for the ordering page on Ron's website: http://tuning-diesels.com/Products/prod3.htm

£57.50 currently including P&P for the MAFAM MF1P

[king martin]

mine accelerates through the gears, but runs out of steam at about 95mph...

its the 100bhp td zr...

is this the maf sensor? it does rev above 3k but not in 5th gear?

[SDI_Tim]

Originally Posted by king martin

mine accelerates through the gears, but runs out of steam at about 95mph...

its the 100bhp td zr...

is this the maf sensor? it does rev above 3k but not in 5th gear?

This sounds like my ZR TD was with 100bhp. There was nothing wrong with the MAF sensor on it, just that the car didn't have enough power to accelerate quickly at that speed. Top speed was about 120mph on the speedo, but above 95 it took a long time to get there.

[p_b82]

yep, dont sound like it is a MAF if it is reving above 4K in all gears, just down on top end torque to get it much faster.... tho i am sure if that was a public road you meant kph not mph or summit

[king martin]

will this make a difference?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAF-spray-Land...d=p3286.c0.m14

[SDI_Tim]

Originally Posted by p_b82

yep, dont sound like it is a MAF if it is reving above 4K in all gears, just down on top end torque to get it much faster.... tho i am sure if that was a public road you meant kph not mph or summit

Doh, I'm trying to be a modern man, I did mean kph, but keep falling back into the habit of using the "old money" mph when I actually mean kmh.