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Old 06-03-2007, 21:32   #1
coopsman1
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zr heater not working

my heater fan has just stopped working on 1&2 but is fine on 3 & 4, can anyone tell me if this part is ok to fit to a zr 51 plate,

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...1457&rd=1&rd=1

also does anyone know how to change tis part.
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Old 06-03-2007, 21:38   #2
pault100
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check skelo
Has your fan stopped working on settings 1 or 2?

I have a a heater resistor pack, that will cure this problem.

I'm open to offers, PM me.

Cheers
Skelo
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Old 06-03-2007, 22:00   #3
Sejin26
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Looks to be a newer version. Might fix the old burning out problem.
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Old 06-03-2007, 22:02   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coopsman1 View Post
my heater fan has just stopped working on 1&2 but is fine on 3 & 4, can anyone tell me if this part is ok to fit to a zr 51 plate,

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...1457&rd=1&rd=1

also does anyone know how to change tis part.
if u find away of fixing it can u let me no mine is the same hasnt worked on 1&2 for the past yr thanx
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Old 06-03-2007, 22:04   #5
coopsman1
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Originally Posted by lisajh1981 View Post
if u find away of fixing it can u let me no mine is the same hasnt worked on 1&2 for the past yr thanx
will do mate should arrive in weekend hopefully
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Old 11-03-2007, 13:21   #6
coopsman1
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well i fitted my new heater resistor today, and omg how easy it was only took 10mins, thanks for the hlp guys.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:11   #7
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well i fitted my new heater resistor today, and omg how easy it was only took 10mins, thanks for the hlp guys.
sorry to ask but do these heater resistors also stop heat working on all settings ? eg 1 to 4

I have no heating and after exploring everything single other option (and believe me ive spent 3 months doing this) the only option i havent explored is this heater resistor which is why im asking.

I have air blowing on all 4 settings but just cold!
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:17   #8
Euan2009
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sorry to ask but do these heater resistors also stop heat working on all settings ? eg 1 to 4

I have no heating and after exploring everything single other option (and believe me ive spent 3 months doing this) the only option i havent explored is this heater resistor which is why im asking.

I have air blowing on all 4 settings but just cold!
Its normally settings 1-3 that stop working if the resistor pack goes. Setting 4 bypasses the pack completely. The old man made me a new pack with better resistors from Maplin, I think theres a good guide in the how to.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:17   #9
XPart02
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Originally Posted by Sanchez View Post
sorry to ask but do these heater resistors also stop heat working on all settings ? eg 1 to 4

I have no heating and after exploring everything single other option (and believe me ive spent 3 months doing this) the only option i havent explored is this heater resistor which is why im asking.

I have air blowing on all 4 settings but just cold!
No. The resistor just operates the fan speeds.
Have you checked the heater control valve?


You may have no flow through the heater matrix.
Either that or the heater matrix is clogged solid.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:18   #10
Euan2009
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And if the heaters arent blowing hot air at all then thats your heater matrix. Flush your cooling system to get rid of any airlocks, see if that helps.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:21   #11
mushymarlin
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if air is blowing on all 4 settings its not the fan motor resistors which is what these guys were refering to. your problem is your heater matrix either has an air lock, is clogged up with crud or your heater matrix valve is not working (or the hot/cold knob is not controlling the heater valve)

a common sign of head gasket failure is the heaters not blowing hot air so it might be worth checking your oil (does it look ok? any signs or a mayonaise like substance)
check your coolant..... are you loosing any? does it look ok or does it look all gunky with possibly oil in there?? (again this might be the same mayonaise like substance)

there is plenty of posts about heaters not blowing hot air and head gasket failure and they are quite often linked, however not always so dont panic just yet.
the search button is your friend, dont be afraid to use it. hope that helps some what
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:23   #12
Sanchez
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No. The resistor just operates the fan speeds.
Have you checked the heater control valve?


You may have no flow through the heater matrix.
Either that or the heater matrix is clogged solid.

Ok so i can forget the resistor then as on all 4 settings its blowing even if its cold its blowing so your saying its not that right?

The heater valve moves fine when i know the interior control knob but havent actually taken it apart but did notice that on both sides of the hose from the valve the hoses are hot/warm.

The heater matrix i back flushed and the water came out fine clear after a few hose pipe tries. Unless its so badly clogged that the water is just immediately coming out which whats the chances of that?
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:26   #13
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Originally Posted by mushymarlin View Post
if air is blowing on all 4 settings its not the fan motor resistors which is what these guys were refering to. your problem is your heater matrix either has an air lock, is clogged up with crud or your heater matrix valve is not working (or the hot/cold knob is not controlling the heater valve)

a common sign of head gasket failure is the heaters not blowing hot air so it might be worth checking your oil (does it look ok? any signs or a mayonaise like substance)
check your coolant..... are you loosing any? does it look ok or does it look all gunky with possibly oil in there?? (again this might be the same mayonaise like substance)

there is plenty of posts about heaters not blowing hot air and head gasket failure and they are quite often linked, however not always so dont panic just yet.
the search button is your friend, dont be afraid to use it. hope that helps some what
Thanks and yes everything is fine with oil etc and have also done various things for air locks in matrix, bleeding and flushing etc from peoples advise on here but at the moment no luck at all with any of the suggestions offered.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:29   #14
Sanchez
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And if the heaters arent blowing hot air at all then thats your heater matrix. Flush your cooling system to get rid of any airlocks, see if that helps.

yeah have done that now a few times with no success
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:31   #15
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whats the flow of water light when you flush the matrix?? just a trickle?
it might be worth seeing if you can stick your hand under the dash (or in the air vent chamber) and feel the matrix its self. might be easier if you feel the metal pipes going to and from the matrix (they stick through the bulk head into the engine bay) one might be hot one might be cold.

try shutting the matrix vlave (turning the dial to cold) starting the engine and letting it warm up) then feeling the pipes get someone to open up the valve and both the inlet and outlet pipes on the matrix should become hot/warm

how do you fill the system up with coolant once you drained it? very very slowly i hope (with the heater turned to hot) otherwise you will get air locks.

i had a similar problem with my old 216, after a head gasket change i could not get my heater to blow hot again, i tried draining and refilling, bleeding, flushing it all seemed ok but at best all i could get was luke warm air. i never got it fixed but i sold the car now.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:49   #16
Sanchez
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whats the flow of water light when you flush the matrix?? just a trickle?
it might be worth seeing if you can stick your hand under the dash (or in the air vent chamber) and feel the matrix its self. might be easier if you feel the metal pipes going to and from the matrix (they stick through the bulk head into the engine bay) one might be hot one might be cold.

try shutting the matrix vlave (turning the dial to cold) starting the engine and letting it warm up) then feeling the pipes get someone to open up the valve and both the inlet and outlet pipes on the matrix should become hot/warm

how do you fill the system up with coolant once you drained it? very very slowly i hope (with the heater turned to hot) otherwise you will get air locks.

i had a similar problem with my old 216, after a head gasket change i could not get my heater to blow hot again, i tried draining and refilling, bleeding, flushing it all seemed ok but at best all i could get was luke warm air. i never got it fixed but i sold the car now.
The flow of water from the matrix was just the same as i was putting in which suggested to me that it wasnt that clogged up after a few tries.

I will double check the matrix inlet and outlets again as you suggested starting on cold and then changing to hot as both should be hot/warm if the water is flowing through right?

when filling the coolant i didnt do it extremely slow as didnt also want air getting in but i didnt stop and start neither and on the occassions i've done it ive just done it at a constant flow.

the only thing that i can think of is this heater valve is not fully working and the hot water then must be going via the bypass.
If i take the 2 hoses of the heater valve, will i be able to see immediately if the valve is ok?
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Old 12-10-2010, 13:09   #17
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ive never taken apart the valve before but it should be fairly simple to check once the pipes are off either end. yes inlet and outlet should be warm/hot if its working.
if the valve is working properly then the pipe on the inlet side of the valve should be hot when engine is warmed up and valve shut. with valve open both inlet and outlet of the valve should be hot if its working/allowing water to pass. although heat can transfer so the best way would be to whip the valve out and check it
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Old 12-10-2010, 13:32   #18
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I had a problem of this nature a while back, and Technozen suggested re-filling my cooling system this way..

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=368729

Worth giving it a try, worked fine for me
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Old 12-10-2010, 14:23   #19
Sanchez
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ive never taken apart the valve before but it should be fairly simple to check once the pipes are off either end. yes inlet and outlet should be warm/hot if its working.
if the valve is working properly then the pipe on the inlet side of the valve should be hot when engine is warmed up and valve shut. with valve open both inlet and outlet of the valve should be hot if its working/allowing water to pass. although heat can transfer so the best way would be to whip the valve out and check it
I will have another look as thats one of the first things i checked and from what i can remember both hoses on either side of the valve were hot. I then had to move on to other suggestions with no result on anything i have tried. The reason i didnt actually take the valve apart was because the hose was indeed hot on either side which suggests the valve is opened or at least opening but it may be obstructed slightly causing problems. So i will check this again and go from there.
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Old 12-10-2010, 14:24   #20
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I had a problem of this nature a while back, and Technozen suggested re-filling my cooling system this way..

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=368729

Worth giving it a try, worked fine for me
thanks and yes ive tried this 3 times already and no luck!!
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