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#1 |
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Supporter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Cheshire Car: MG F (Mk II) & Rover Streetwise
Posts: 3,006
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Water loss
My coupe (k-series) is loosing water. Cap was recently replaced, but its still loosing coolant.
All the pipes look ok, so I've started to suspect the water pump, so I'm going to replace it. As the car is on 114k, and the cam belt is due in 6k miles I thought I'd replace that too. Is it worth replacing the tensioner at the same time? Is it fairly straight forward to replace the pump and tensioner? Thanks - D |
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#2 |
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Disabled
Join Date: Jul 2006
Car: Classic Rover
Posts: 367
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Yes !
Always replace the tensioner when the belt gets done, it adds virtually no time to the job. If you dont and the tensioner goes then its a very costly repair. Cost me £75 to get my belt, tensioner and pump replaced last year. Before you get that done though, it might be worth popping into your local trusted garage and getting them to test your coolant to check if you Head Gasket is ok as it may have gone and this is why your topping up too. My garage didnt charge for this test, dont know about others though. |
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#3 |
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Supporter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Cheshire Car: MG F (Mk II) & Rover Streetwise
Posts: 3,006
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Is that £75 labour only?
I've been quoted £140 in parts alone (new pump, tensioner, cam belt, PS belt and alt belt) from my local dealer. I was going to fit them myself. I'll take the cam cover off and have a look to see if I can spot the leak this weekend. Thanks, D |
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#4 |
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Disabled
Join Date: Jul 2006
Car: Classic Rover
Posts: 367
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Yes, sorry that was labour only.
I got the bits myself from my local motor factors cost about £50 for the parts if i remember correctly |
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Berkshire Car: Rover 200 (-95)
Posts: 797
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Inlet manifold gasket is also another notorious place for coolant to leak. I noticed it was leaking from mine after letting the engine get cold and looked underneath the inlet manifold at the back of the block. When the engine's hot, the block was dry.
The job of changing the belt, tensioner and water pump isn't that hard, but for me it took a lot longer than a professional quoted. It took me the best part of a day to do the whole thing. Constantly lifting and dropping the engine with a trolley jack to get access to bolts. The odd bolt head was rounded, or undersized! The crank bolt is also often hard to shift. I'd still do the job my self though. Re-fill the coolant very slowly, like a fast trickle. It is dead easy to get an air lock. Last edited by Rusty Bullet; 09-03-2007 at 23:17. |
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