How To: Head Gasket Change K Series (Pic Heavy!!) - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
 
 
Go Back   MG-Rover.org Forums > Ask The Gurus! - Help and Advice Forums > How Do I - Answers To Common Problems.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 22 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 11-03-2007, 17:56   #1
aufo8mycow
Registered User
 

Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Tintagel - Cornwall
Car: Rover 200 Coupe
Posts: 694
How To: Head Gasket Change K Series (Pic Heavy!!)

Hi Guys.

Sorry, was supposed to pop this on a week or so ago.. just got round to it.

Perhaps one of the biggest problems or should I say...fear's... of any Vehicle owner is the DREADED Head Gasket... but no need, with very basic DIY knowledge, you can change it, just as I have.. Below is a step by step guide to what I did to change the Head gasket. Please note though, A Haynes manual is paramount to making sure the job is done correctly, while this shows how I did it.. it doesn't mean its right!!!!... it just worked afterwards...

What is important though, is finding why the head gasket went in the first place, as just replacing the new gasket may see the same problem weeks later! Prime suspects are:
a)Coolant cap (Seal not working causing no coolant pressure)
b)Thermostat, for the sake a few quid, replace it..if you really must test it.. dangle it in a cup of coffee (Yes I know....) But the temperature is around 88 degrees. and should open.. if it doesn't replace.
c) Water pump.. usually makes a noise or leaks when it fails
d) Blocked radiator, causing overheat, back flush with hose (Low pressure) what comes out of it?
e) Coolant leak..check pipes, radiators..unions..gaskets.. Renew as needed
f) Cracked Head...will need to be replaced..ebay is a good place to start or scrap yard. Get a pressure test done on it by a garage
g) Damp / wet liners moved ...should stand a little proud.. if they sink, no gasket will ever seal it, unfortunately the engine will be scrap. (read part about moving crank with head bolts removed(DONT))



Step One.. Make sure you have a good clean environment to do the job in.. make sure both you and the engine are protected from the elements.. I got a Gazebo.. 12.99 from Argos A small table for tools and parts, and somewhere to store the parts you take off.. Remember to clean as you go.



Step Two.. Get to know your engine... have a good ol' look around it, see any signs of wear and tear and of course, what it looks like when you put it back together!... taking photo's will help you, should you have the odd 'pipe' or wire that has no place to go!! You would be surprised how many bolts I had left over at the end!!!..All now found their place



Some images of what head gasket failure looks like!!!





Oil Drain



Step Three.. Disconnect Air filter.



Step Four.. Disconnect All coolant pipes from radiator and engine. (A good opportunity to rinse them all through and check for damage) Crusty build ups suggest coolant crystallization from leaks.



Step Five.. Disconnect all vacuum hoses and to ECU and store in safe, dry place. Its also worthwhile labeling them so you know where and how they have come off.. (I used labels with 1:1 and 2:2 etc. so I knew where they attach)



Step Six.. I find its easy to label the leads.. Although I painted them ... a sticky would be better!!! We live and learn don't we lol...



Step Seven.. Strip down distributer parts and remove them.



Step Eight.. Disconnect all cables from sensors but leave Spark plugs in holes. (Unless you want to clean them up)



Step Nine.. Remove camshaft cover and discard gasket. Note the colour of the oil... looks like chocolate milkshake.. same thickness as well...



A Close up of the 'goo' Remember to clean this out and the mesh filters (I used a hose.. worked fine)



Step Ten.. Depressurize the fuel system, loosen the nut and remove pipe.. Plenty of rags to the ready.. NO SMOKING and plug gaps to stop debris entering the system.. Due to spillage, its worth while letting any evaporate...go get yourself a cuppa!!! Any sparks can be fatal!



Step Eleven.. Remove the inlet manifold (Check bolt sequence in Haynes) Note the gasket has also failed on this one.. Irrespective, this gasket must be replaced when removed. Also, on Fuel injector models, remove the rail and on carburettor models remove this.. a long with throttle body and cable.

Also, unbolt exhaust manifold.. this is an absolute %^%&^$& to get off!!!, use plenty of WD40 prior to even contemplating taking these bolts off, you might want to leave it on as will make a good handle and take the exhaust off from the next union down. These will still be difficult but beter to break or drill out if needs be..



Step Twelve.. Remove cam belt cover..



Step Thirteen.. Insert Cam locking tool (Get off ebay of motor shop, few quid) Make sure the inlet & Exhaust marks line up. Its also worthwhile (For how I did it) Is to mark the cam belt with direction and position marks.



At this point.. depending on if you are replacing the cam belt (Mind was done 2k miles ago so I left on, will depend on what you do now. Either way, using an alan key and a number 8, remove the tensioner. Its good practice to replace this, if you are keeping it, discard bolt or when you refit use some 'Locktite' to stop it working free with vibration.

A Good video here : http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?...cambelt+change

Step Fourteen.. Remove Thermostat (Good idea to replace, Along with the Gasket and o Ring)



This is now how the engine bay should look... lots of working space...



Time for a cup of tea.....................

Step Fifteen.. Now for the head.. Make sure you have the right bit.. the upto date sequence and most inportant...don't rush!!! its a three stage tightning sequence.. There is no need to have the re tightened after..no run in... The nature of the engine means you cannot rotate the crank..or the block as the damp liners might move.. so care is needed here. (Each bolt if re using should be placed into a cardboard holder with numbers written on them so you know which is which) Also if re using they must all be measured as they are stretch bolts, if they are over.. new ones must be used.. if more than one out.. replace them all (Don't bother with ebay..as some horror stories of them snapping with refit!!)

Working in sequence, untighten the head bolts...



Once all the head bolts have been removed.. Gently rock the head towards and away from you (A strong L bar into two of the head bolt holes will help) To break the gasket seal.. Once broken get help to lift up and out the head.. Be careful not to drop it and don't place on hard ground using the gasket mating surfaces as a rest as scratches will ruin the head.

Step Sixteen.. Now remove all traces of gasket and carbon built up.. checking for pitting.. cracks and other damage.. Use either a wooden or plastic scraper, not metal in case it scratches the head.. Extreme care should be taken.. Take your time Don't use sandpaper!! The cleaner the mating surfaces...the better!!! (Must say I used oven cleaner lol.. Mr muscle loves the jobs you hate!!!) Be careful though due to the acid content.. I brushed on.. scrubbed off!!.. Also as it was wet. I used WD40 to stop it oxidizing and also rinsed out all water canals.

Also using a true straight edge, both diagonally, vertical and horizontal. place it across the head and check for warpage (Machine shop will also do this for you)

Don't listen to the nonsense of Get the head skimmed... If it aint warped.. DONT SKIM!! It removes the heat resistant surface and increases compression. And is just a waste of money! If it is warped though, you will need a skim. Don't bother taking it to a garage.. go straight to a machine shop who will do it for you. A lot cheaper and only what a garage does!



Step Seventeen... Fit new gasket.. If using anything other than the landrover gasket (I.e. One with red beading) Check for damage and make sure there are no breaks in the bead (I had to get two as first one was faulty) I used composite (33 for the full set!!) (Don't bend or distort it!)



Thats the hardest part over with!!!!!

Now refit in reverse order.. Care should be taken when re fitting the head and get a friend to help as moving it round looking for the dowel holes will scratch the surface... Also... the new metal dowels might be too big.. slightly increase the dowel holes in the head with a drill.. The metal is very soft.. be careful!!!

I hope this manages to help someone.. Anyone with more to add or alternative methods.. Feel free to add, again this is just how I did it and its working fine Although will probably add more as I think what I have missed out.

Get good quality oil and replacement filters.. Although no run in is needed.. its a good idea to drive like a granny, try not to go above 4k revs if you can for the first 500 miles and check the water levels after each trip Mine lost a little water for the first couple of days as the airlocks were removed but settled down and the water level is now constant.

Also make sure you replace with the right mix and type of coolant. On the expansion tank there is a circle label.. Should tell you on that the type.

Once again, this isn't a job you should fear.. can be done over a weekend, especially now the weather is getting better.. So many cars on ebay that people sell for next to nothing because of this problem.. The most important thing to remember, if you suffer head gasket falure.. Don't drive it...don't let it over heat and if you need to get home make sure you keep checking the water level. Furthermore, K-seal really does work as a get you home system (Not a good idea to just leave it) So worth keeping some in the boot....

Below are the pics of my car all working and now with nearly an extra 1000 miles on the clock with no problems (Touch wood)



Last edited by aufo8mycow; 19-03-2007 at 13:18.
aufo8mycow is offline   Reply With Quote

Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 12-03-2007, 17:52   #2
Takeshi
Registered User
 

Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Bristol
Car: Rover 200 (95-99) 'Bubble Shape'
Posts: 737
Excellent guide - filled me with even more confidence now
Takeshi is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 12-03-2007, 18:11   #3
Jamie S
Registered User
 

Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: near Heathrow
Car: 214SI 16v born 31/11/95
Posts: 98
Send a message via MSN to Jamie S
that brings back memories ....... all 4 of them !!!!!!

many thanks for the excellent guide.

helped me explain to the wife why it takes all day!!!

Jamie S
Jamie S is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 19-03-2007, 12:41   #4
aufo8mycow
Registered User
 

Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Tintagel - Cornwall
Car: Rover 200 Coupe
Posts: 694
LOL thanks guys
aufo8mycow is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 19-03-2007, 12:56   #5
C2K
Registered User
 

Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Preston or Peterborough depending on what day it is :P
Car: Rover 200 (-95)
Posts: 226
Send a message via ICQ to C2K Send a message via AIM to C2K Send a message via Yahoo to C2K
Excellent how to for people not in the know.
C2K is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 19-03-2007, 13:01   #6
Cirian75
Registered User
 

Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Chorlton, Manchester
Car: "Swifty" the Gun metal Gray Suzuki Swift 1.3 vvt
Posts: 11,739
Blog Entries: 4
Send a message via MSN to Cirian75
I would suggest this thread to be made a "How To" sticky.
Cirian75 is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 19-03-2007, 16:14   #7
aboard_epsilon
Registered User
 

Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Prestatyn North Wales
Car: Rover 420 (95-99)
Posts: 2,131
well done, it's great up to where you show the head gasket waiting to be fitted

but the poor buggers are mainly going to get unstuck, putting it all back together, timing, cambelt ,tappets .. anaerobic sealant ,bleeding, green inlet manifold gasket, tightening sequence, coolant etc ....it would have been good if you had put all these with detailed pics of the assembly.


anyway, well done perhaps someone else will do this, and it can be tacked on the end of your post when they make it sticky.

All the best...mark
aboard_epsilon is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 19-03-2007, 16:31   #8
aufo8mycow
Registered User
 

Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Tintagel - Cornwall
Car: Rover 200 Coupe
Posts: 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by aboard_epsilon View Post
well done, it's great up to where you show the head gasket waiting to be fitted

but the poor buggers are mainly going to get unstuck, putting it all back together, timing, cambelt ,tappets .. anaerobic sealant ,bleeding, green inlet manifold gasket, tightening sequence, coolant etc ....it would have been good if you had put all these with detailed pics of the assembly.


anyway, well done perhaps someone else will do this, and it can be tacked on the end of your post when they make it sticky.

All the best...mark
Many Thanks Mark. You make a good point. I am doing another K at the end of next week, I will make the alterations on here, once I have taken the pics. It is key to note though there is a cambelt video within that. I can do some pics of how to bleed this weekend (If this weather clears up RAH)

Thanks again

Sean
aufo8mycow is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 19-03-2007, 16:33   #9
no1knows
Registered User
 

Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cheshire just outside Crewe
Car: ZS MK2 FFR
Posts: 2,448
Send a message via MSN to no1knows Send a message via Yahoo to no1knows
Thumbs up

wow , thats great always wanted to know what went into it, this ones getting printed off ( just in case )
no1knows is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 19-03-2007, 18:17   #10
Sejin26
Registered User
 

Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South Yorkshire, Rotherham
Car: Rover 75
Posts: 11,599
Great How to, ages since I have seen a HG change on a K, well since the closure of MG Rover when I lost my job, seem pleanty of older Fords mind since.

I reckon you have done a smashing job made it nice and clear and like the idea of step by step instructions. Does it really take seventeen steps to take it apart?, seems alot more to me.

Anyways well done.
Sejin26 is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 10-04-2007, 12:12   #11
EnEnGee
Registered User
 

Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Kent, The Garden of England
Car: Rover 75 CDT Tourer
Posts: 358
I did the HG on my step son's 214SLI (R8) over the week end, and it pretty much runs as described above! This was my first K series HG and the most ambitious job I have done on the K before was the water pump, and that was about 7 years ago.

The only problematic area I had was the middle exhaust manifold nut which was a complete !$%^(" to get off and slowed me down considerably. Also, I couldn't find my camshaft locking tool so had to carry on without. Take your time and be methodical.

As with most transverse engines, the space to work around the engine is tight but most things can be accessed reasonably well. The Haynes book for the 200 was a great help for most things, and i wouldn't attempt it without it. The above guide is an over view only really although you will find the photographs of great help.
EnEnGee is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 22-05-2007, 17:11   #12
baffledagain
Registered User
 

Join Date: May 2007
Car: Classic Rover
Posts: 82
Can anyone please advise? I have taken the head off my 216 and am not sure how "clean" the surfaces need to be. I have taken a few photos, and would be grateful for any comments

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/7254/imgp0039au6.jpg

http://img462.imageshack.us/img462/1690/imgp0041vu2.jpg
baffledagain is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 22-05-2007, 17:53   #13
donnyvfr
Registered User
 

Join Date: May 2007
Car: Rover 200 (-95)
Posts: 150
very good

super job now can someone do one for an 1991 ish d16 honda 216!!!!!
donnyvfr is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 22-05-2007, 18:50   #14
Steve220
Registered User
 

Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Elgin, Scotland
Car: Audi A4
Posts: 11,238
Send a message via MSN to Steve220
good tutorial personally, after HGF, i would run some cheap oil for about 100 miles, then drain, to get rid of ALL traces of the sludge and mayo in the engine. Then fill up with a premium oil and new filter
Steve
Steve220 is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 18-09-2007, 18:03   #15
ashy
Registered User
 

Join Date: Oct 2004
Car: Silver Stormer ZR turbo.
Posts: 17,405
Head gasket repair guide

Not mine, but thought it was worth posting here instead of letting it go to waste:

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showpost....69&postcount=1
ashy is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 22-09-2007, 14:12   #16
ThumpJunkie
Registered User
 

Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Bathgate / Kirkcaldy / Beirut
Car: Mk1 T16 ZR / Rover 25 Track Rat
Posts: 16,044
Send a message via MSN to ThumpJunkie
That's the one I was looking for!!!
ThumpJunkie is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 22-09-2007, 15:27   #17
Chris T
Moderator
 
Chris T's Avatar
 

Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Leicestershire
Car: MG TF 135 Platinum Silver, Skoda Roomster
Posts: 31,187
Garages
I have moved the thread over to here.
__________________
Proud Member of the HD-HU-CGAF Club.
North Leicester MG Club: www.northleicester-mg.org.uk
Chris T is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 10-12-2007, 15:18   #18
pete l
Registered User
 

Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: France
Car: 25, 75, MG ZR and MG TF
Posts: 1,841
When removing the head, do the cam pulleys have to be removed from the cams or does the whole lot come off together with the black plastic cover ?
pete l is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 10-12-2007, 20:20   #19
1955diesel
Never forgotten
 

Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Birmingham
Car: Other Manufacturer. Previously - more Rovers than I care to remember.
Posts: 16,732
Take the sprockets and inner cover off first.
1955diesel is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 12-12-2007, 06:32   #20
pete l
Registered User
 

Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: France
Car: 25, 75, MG ZR and MG TF
Posts: 1,841
So what is point of having a locking tool for the 2 sprockets then if they have to comme off ? and why do people talk about "did the timing move" etc after a head gasket change ?
pete l is offline   Reply With Quote

Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2.0 T-Series Head Gasket change 220SLi16v 'R8' Rovers (aka Wedges!!) 25 20-05-2010 21:06
head gasket change advice, rover 45, HEAD GASKET NOT YET GONE, BUT OBV ON IT WAY OUT rovermatt MG ZS / Rover 45 & 400 8 24-08-2008 16:19
Head Gasket Change. CJJ MGF and MGTF (Sponsored by MGFnTFBITZ) 27 13-08-2008 19:26
K Series Head Gasket change crossk5 MG ZS / Rover 45 & 400 12 22-03-2008 10:53
K series Head needed and head gasket hayden2006 Wanted 6 07-03-2007 18:06


All times are GMT. The time now is 12:00.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
ShowCase, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.