Changing my Pads and Disks (inc. picures)

[craynerd]

Hey Guys

Don`t mean to profess, i am certainly no mechanic but changed my pads and disks recently and took some pictures. I know you have got lots of collections of "how-to`s" with photos etc on petes site and other website, but I couldn`t find one for brakes. So here is my how-to, if there are better versions out there then sorry....hope it helps some people!
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All pictures are showing replacement of rear disks and brakes. I will indicate differences with front brakes using **Front**


1. Remove the 4 wheel nuts and wheel (19mm I needed)

2. You should now see your disk and calliper, something similar to this:



look behind the calliper and there are two nuts, one top and bottom, remove these. The top bolt can be seen in the next picture, just below centre:



3. Make sure the handbrake is off (**Front** not necessary) and pull the pad free from the disk:



4. Remove the pads from the calliper, this is just a case of wriggling them and pushing free.



5. The piston must now be pushed back before the new pads can be inserted. This is the biggest difference between front and back. **Front** simply push the piston back with grips or a G clamp and it will stay there - Done!!
With the rear brakes you need a specialised tool :





With being in a garage, the tool is a multitool for a selection of cars. The tool required for the MGF is this:



The next sequence of photos shows the piston out, the tool screwing the piston back and the piston fully in:

a.


b.


c.


6. The new pads are now ready to be fitted. However, look carefully at the back of the bad, there is a little nob, this nob must fit in one of the grooves in the piston (which you must position (screw) so that the nob is at 12 o`clock) It will be obvious when you see it!! I tried to take pictures of the pads being replaced but they show very little, it is quite tricky and fiddily. I would advise that you have one untouched on the other side so that you can refer!

7. Next undo the disk retaining screws and in theory the disk should drop off. It very likely will not drop off and you will probably need several sharp bangs from behind to knock the disk off the hub (one of my front ones took about 5 minutes of constant hammering before it freed up!)





8. Copper slip up and replace the disk and retaining screws! nearly done now...



9. Relocate the calliper and replace nuts.




10. Replace the wheel and wheel nuts!!


WAHOO done and dusted! 10 easy steps!

And by the way, brakes are life and death but honestly quite simple to do! Don`t risk anything and I certainly take no responsibility should anything go wrong!!!

Good luck guys and please if you spot any amendments let me know...i`ll have done my own wrong if so ...

Chris

[Loaky]

Good work! Looks like they'd seen a few miles in there time!

[craynerd]

just a bit.....!!!

[CJJ]

I hate people who have the right tools just isn't cricket.

The only thing that I would say to people is use a bit of string or something to support the caliper so that the hose isn't taking the full weight.

Thanks for the photos, now I know what I am facing. Have done brakes before but not come across the winding in thing. Can you get a tool that is just for the F/TF, rather than a kit?

[Chris T]

Look for the Drapper universal windback tool for less then £10.

[cjmillsnun]

Originally Posted by CJJ

I hate people who have the right tools just isn't cricket.

The only thing that I would say to people is use a bit of string or something to support the caliper so that the hose isn't taking the full weight.

Thanks for the photos, now I know what I am facing. Have done brakes before but not come across the winding in thing. Can you get a tool that is just for the F/TF, rather than a kit?

I find a pair of long nose pliers works as a wind back tool very sucessfully

[Mark.L]

Good Job... And pic's....

Just watch your head on the steering wheel the next time you brake!!.

[craynerd]

Gotta admit, we tried winding with long nose pliers but no luck (before we knew his dad had the kit ) again, maybe it is because mine was particularly stiff!?

The tool was much more useful and if it is only £10 like Chris T says then it is worth the investment!

Chris

[CJJ]

Originally Posted by Chris T

Look for the Drapper universal windback tool for less then £10.

Thanks Chris, will keep my eyes open for one. If all else fails, CJ, I do have long nose pliers.

[MGFmad]

A good guide.

Might be worth adding that new discs usually come with a protective coating to stop rust, this has to be cleaned off so it doesn't contaminate the pads.

My preference when doing brakes is to put a little copper grease on the back of the pads to stop any squealing.

Out of interest, where did you get your discs about and what at what price - thinking of doing mine soon.

[Broon]

I have a page for changing pads, but yours is MUCH better. Nice one!!!!

[smbMG]

Originally Posted by CJJ

I hate people who have the right tools just isn't cricket.

The only thing that I would say to people is use a bit of string or something to support the caliper so that the hose isn't taking the full weight.

Thanks for the photos, now I know what I am facing. Have done brakes before but not come across the winding in thing. Can you get a tool that is just for the F/TF, rather than a kit?

I got mine from Halfords for about £20 if i remember correctly, but it makes your life so much easier when pushing the pistons back in on either front or rear...except for the AP's of course!

[Petevick]

I think this needs adding to my site as well good work that man

[Broon]

Disks and pads can of course be changed without removing calipers etc.

[Petevick]

Originally Posted by Broon

Disks and pads can of course be changed without removing calipers etc.

how do you get discs off with a caliper in the way then

[Broon]

No, you need to take the calipers off the wheel, but not rmove them completel;y as above (rubber bits rmeobved etc)

[craynerd]

The calliper has not been removed...just the top bit of the calliper drops off and it makes pushing the piston back a touch easier imo.

Chris

[Broon]

Perhapos I should clarify...

You dont have to do this....


Which makes it easier

[craynerd]

No it does not clarify....the calliper still has not been removed on that picture?

[Broon]

OK, what I mean is you dont have to remove the caliper fomr the pins as in the photo. By doing this you can introduce dirt etc into the pin mechanism, and it doesnt have to be done. I ahvew changed disks etc without having removed the pins fomr the caliper, so it muist be posisble