30k service [Picture heavy]

[CJJ]

Well, sorry for the delay but it seems I can do a full service in less time than BT takes to fix my telephone/broadband line.

Anyway, here are the pics as promised.

There is a servicing sheet available on Tony Thompson's site, here http://www.apttony.co.uk/Servicing/ServiceSheets.html

First off all I checked the handbrake operation, lights, horn etc. All worked OK

I checked the screen and washers. One of the washer jets was loose and not spraying properly so I replaced it with a new one (£5). The jet just unclips from underneath and the new one pushes into place after swpping the gasket from the old one. You can set the jets up by jamming a pin or paperclip into the squirter hole and turning the jet to the required position.

Both the seatbelts, fixings etc were checked and found to be OK

Next I used some spray grease to lubricate the boot/bonnet and door hinges and catches. This is important if you want trouble free operation. Most people do this job when something has stopped operating correctly. This is called corrective maintenance rather than preventive maintenance and can be more problematic and expensive.

Door Catch


Boot Catch


Bonnet Catch


Lower bonnet catch. This is showing the lower catch with the top plate removed. The blue tape is there so that I can put the catch back together in the same place. This is worth doing as you could end up spending a fair bit of time setting the catch back up again. Give a good squirt of grease around inside left, as this is where the cable release from the boot operates the catch. If this seizes you can have a lot of problems getting in to your bonnet.


I also lubricated the bonnet hinges. Unfortunately the grease I am using is white and the hinges are visible with the bonnet closed. I therefore had to wipe some off.

The battery was checked and the terminals and chassis connection were greased to prevent corrosion.

Fluid levels were checked, although I am going to do a full brake fluid change when I fit the new rear brakes.

Next I moved to the engine bay.

To get full access you need to remove the engine inspection cover.

To do this you also need to remove the wind stop (for us shandy drinkers that have one). Fold the roof back and remove the wind stop


Now fold the roof forward and undo the clips that hold the rear of the hood to the car body (At least unclip the hood to windscreen clips when you do this as it releases a bit of tension).



and fold the rear part of the hood forward. Remember to avoid creases in the window when folding. If you cannot get the rear hood to stay up by itself you can tie it up.

Next remove the wind stop brackets using an allan key


and the 3 cross head screws from the top of the T-bar cover.


The cover then pulls forward (you will have to move the seats forward first). There are 2 plastic push in fasteners at each end of the cover and two at the top of the arm rest. These simply pull out when you pull the cover forward, or break off if my experience is anything to go by. I am now sick of gluing them and I am going to use black plastic screws to hold in place. You may also need to pull the door seal off at each side to release the cover.

Pull the cover forward out of the way and rest on the seats.

Next you need to remove the two 10mm bolts (one at each end) holding the speaker pods to the body, and place out of the way.


The box in the picture is for holding any screws and bits removed. I really recommend this as it saves you hours of searching for bits.

Next remove the parcel shelf cover


and the soundproofing


and remove the inspection panel


I checked all of the visible hoses for damage and all seemed OK

I haven't pressure checked the system as I haven't got the equipment to do it.

I did check the engine coolant was of a correct mixture and it checked out to -23 degrees.


Next I changed the air filter for an itg freeflow panel filter.

The airbox is on the nearside of the engine bay


Here you can see the old and new filters for comparison


To do this you need to undo the jubilee clip holding the air box onto the induction manifold pipe and unclip the 4 clips that hold the top cover in place


You now have to slide the airbox cover forward and through 90 degrees


and remove the cover


Then fit the new filter


Obviously the cover goes back on at this point, but I am replacing the fuel filter (Not part of the 30k service. Normally done at 60k or 4 years) while I am in and leaving the airbox cover off gives me a little more room.

The fuel filter is just to the left of the airbox. It is adviseable to pack kitchen roll around the connections as you undo them as fuel will escape. Take necessary precautions to avoid a fire and preferably do this with a cold engine.

First of all, disconnect the quick release coupling (Orange) at the top of the filter pipe. You do this by gripping the connector and pushing the black collar (Shown between my thumb and finger) in towards the connector. As you do this, pull the connector away from the pipe and it should pull straight off.


Next you need to use 2 spanners to undo the connection at the bottom of the filter. The bottom connection releases a lot of fuel when disconnected as the filter empties.


And pull the filter towards you out of the holder. The filter is held in by a clip at the neck of the holder. Just push this back and you can remove the filter

Here we have the new filter (the top pipe has already been removed and fitted to the new filter) and the old. One thing I noticed was that the old one is made of steel and the new one is ally. The new one feels a lot lighter.

[CJJ]

Next comes the spark plug change. Again this is normally done at 60k or 4 years.

First remove the top cover from the engine. There are 3 bolts. Two long ones at the top and a shorter one in the middle front.


This exposes the coil packs and HT leads


Two of the plugs are easy to get at and you just pull the plug caps up and out.


The other two are accessed by removing the two 8mm securing bolts and pulling each coil pack up and out


It is best to do one plug at a time so that you do not mix up the leads.

The plugs are a long, long way down. You will need a proper spark plug socket and an extension bar to remove them


Here are the new plugs waiting to be fitted


Fit the new plugs, torque to the manufacturers recommended setting, and refit the covers, coil packs and cover.

Next comes the oil change

Take the car for a nice long drive until the engine is at working temperature. This will help the oil drain easier due to it being thinner.

WARNING. In the next steps the oil will be extremely hot and old oil is carcinogenic. For those of you who don't know, this means that it can cause cancer. So take appropriate precautions to avoid exposure to the engine oil.

Ensure the car is on level ground, place a suitable container under the sump and remove the sump plug. Also remove the filler cap (yellow) on the top of the engine. This will allow the oil to drain faster.

The sump plug is located at the bottom front offside of the engine


Allow all of the oil to drain from the sump.


Now refit the sump plug USING THE OLD WASHER.

Now fill up the engine with oil through the rocker cover filler. Only the best quality oil for me


Seriously though, the next step is optional. Fill the engine with a cheap oil of the correct viscosity and run the engine until it is at working temperature.

Switch off the engine and drain the oil again. This will flush the engine and help remove old oil and sludge. You can buy proper flushing oil with detergents that remove deposits etc, but some people think that the detergents may remove layers and sludge that is holding your engine together. You can be too clean.

Once the oil has drained, pour the remainder of the oil into the filler and watch the drain. Clear oil should start coming out.

Once drained, refit the sump plug WITH THE NEW WASHER.

Now jack the car up and either use an axle stand or place a sustantial piece of wood that will take the weight of the car under the rear offside wheel. Lower the car onto the jack or wood.


NEVER work under a car with just the jack supporting it, it is dangerous and could collapse with you under it.

This will give you easier access to the oil filter, which is just above the sump plug.


Place a drip tray under the oil filter, remembering that the filter contains a substantial amount of hot, old engine oil.

Using a strap wrench, or filter removal tool, remove the oil filter.


Prepare the new oil filter by smearing a small amount of new engine oil around the rubber seal. This will aid sealing.


Fit the new filter hand tight and then an extra 3/4 of a turn.

Remove any axle stands, jacks etc so that the car is level and fill the engine with new oil. This is the real stuff


Once the engine is filled to the correct level start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. This allows the empty oil filter and engine to fill. Switch off the engine, leave for 5 mins and top up the oil, checking the level on the dipstick


At this point you should check your wheel bearings, drive shafts, gaiters, remove wheels and check tyre tread depths etc, check brake pad wear. I have been doing this while I have been replacing the discs and pads. See other threads. When checking pads be sure to check ALL pads as the inner pads tend to wear faster than the outer pads on some brakes.

Check under the car and around the engine bay for evidence of fuel, oil or any other fluid leaks. Also check your suspension and steering components for signs of damage and leaks.

Examine you exhaust and heat shield for deterioration.

The brake fluid should be changed at 30k or 2 years but I will be doing this once I have replaced my rear brakes.

Now refit the engine inspection hatch and associated components.

Check your tyre pressures.

Lastly, you should carry out a corrosion check. You may have noticed on some of the oil change pics that the rear subframe had a fair bit of surface corrosion. I have now covered this using a spraycan of Waxoil which should sort that out.

That is the servicing completed

One thing that isn't mentioned on the servicing sheet is the suspension grease points. You will need a grease gun for this and some general purpose LM grease. Push the gun onto the grease nipple and inject a few squirts of grease (I did 5 on each). I only managed to find the nipples on the front suspension.




I hope this helps people. The usual disclaimers apply etc

If you spot any errors or omissions, let me know and I will try and sort.

Cheers all.

[Baracus]

Nice 1 mate

It really baffles me where garages get their prices from for servicing. I also do all my own cos i know it's been done properly or even done at all. I've taken a car to be serviced years ago and they didn't do much to it at all they just parked it up and waited then changed the oil and gave it me back.

Sorry but i trust no-one, for the sake of a day around the car it's certainly worth doing yourself and saving a load of money too.

i usually do most of mine while i have the engine cover off, so this weekend it will be off and i'll probably be changing the oil again and fuel filter and plugs and the usual checks etc.

When i change the exhaust in a month or so i'll end up doing everything else under the car too. I just make a note of what i've done and when i've done it.

Nice write up mate, I hope this helps people attempt to do most of the servicing themselves

[Petevick]

great write up CJJ. One question, why did you remove the T bar and speaker pod ??, before I had the hoops I removed the inspection panel with those items in place, the bolts under the pod are tight, but deffo removable.

[25Exec]

Don't own one but that's a great guide.
Most impressive.

[adamelphick]

Great guide! Two points:

I AGREED TOTALLLY about using cheapo oil as a flush (I personally also add Wynns engine flush to ASDA cheap oil - it's amazing stuff and only about £4 for 5 litres!). Everyone should do this. It makes your new oil last MUCH longer, you notice it after a month or two when you oil is still lovely and golden, when normally its already poo brown!

Plus I agree with Pete about the speaker pod. I Use a little spanner and they come out quite easily. Then just manouver the cover up and over the rear clips at an angle... might save you a bit of time next service! Plus it keeps that razor sharp metal form the pod well and truly away from your hands!

But as i said - great tutorial for all those who weren't sure before. Garages are often a rip off with things like this. DIY forever!!!!!

[Tim.]

Great write up CJ and good clear photos

[Yigit]

Excellent guide CJJ, top post!

[Broon]

Cheers CJJ. I ahve also done my own servicing since MGR went down and pretty much follow that to a T. Its nice for others to see though. IF you have the tools and the time then its easy enough.

Cracking post!!!

I just leave most of the bolts of my engine cover, I have three on just now at at strategic points. This means I can essentially remove access cover form scratch (hood up and everything) in around 2 -3 minutes max. Makes poking about in the bay an easy quick job to do.

I have no idea if there are any issues doing this (safety etc?)

[Tim.]

Originally Posted by Broon

I just leave most of the bolts of my engine cover, I have three on just now at at strategic points. This means I can essentially remove access cover form scratch (hood up and everything) in around 2 -3 minutes max. Makes poking about in the bay an easy quick job to do.

I have no idea if there are any issues doing this (safety etc?)

Might be wrong but think it may affect the body torsional stiffness. Look at where the TF engine bay stiffening strut goes.

[Broon]

Originally Posted by Balrog

Might be wrong but think it may affect the body torsional stiffness. Look at where the TF engine bay stiffening strut goes.

Oh!

What would that mean in laymans terms

[iaross]

Great post mate!

[Tim.]

Originally Posted by Broon

What would that mean in laymans terms

Have a look here http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/default.htm under body stiffness upgrade

[sniperpenguin]

Originally Posted by Broon

Oh!

What would that mean in laymans terms

.... that your back end is a bit more wobbly!

[Martin-K]

Originally Posted by sniperpenguin

.... that your back end is a bit more wobbly!

And you don't want that, might give people the wrong idea .
Great post with the pic's. Just a little add' ref. fuel filter there may be a bit of pressure so protect eyes whilst undoing.
Also is you boot lock cover missing or did you remove it for the photos?

[zilla]

awesome!

even though I'd never end up doing this myself (well, maybe) it's actually a very interesting post!

[CJJ]

Cheers guys.

I removed the Tbar and speaker pod for ease. First time I didn't do it and it left half the soundproofing in place as it was trapped under the pod. Also I used an electric drill to remove the engine cover bolts, so the extra time it would take with the spanner makes it 6 of one or two threes of the other.

A good point about the fuel filter, but if you leave the engine off for a while before removing the filter the pressure will have died down. It is recommended to wear eye protection for most work, especially working under the car, as you tend to get rust etc in your eyes.

The boot lock cover was removed for the lub/photo. It simply prises off with a screwdriver.

Baracus, I know what you mean. I have been bitten so many times by garages not changing things that they say they have done, charging 3 hours for a one hour job. The worst one was when I took a fairly new car in under warranty due to clutch judder. They stripped the car down and told me that the flywheel was warped. They said it was obvious to them it had not been caused by slipping the clutch etc, but as it was warped it was not deemed a failure and was not covered. I would have to pay £700 for the job. I said "OK then, put it back together and I will get it sorted myself". The reply was "OK sir, but that will be £500 for labour etc". Talk about scam.

[CJJ]

Originally Posted by zilla

awesome!

even though I'd never end up doing this myself (well, maybe) it's actually a very interesting post!

Zilla, it really isn't difficult. I can appreciate that some people may shy off changing timing belts/head gaskets etc, but all of this is simply undoing a few bolts and filling fluids etc. You also get a feeling of satisfaction in doing it yourself.

One of the main reasons I do it myself is I like using the best oils and parts. While some garages use good parts, other will fill your engine from the "bulk" oil that they have and charge you premium prices.

[TF160SA]

cracking post!! you obviously have the best choice of car colour too!!

[Baracus]

Originally Posted by CJJ

Zilla, it really isn't difficult. I can appreciate that some people may shy off changing timing belts/head gaskets etc, but all of this is simply undoing a few bolts and filling fluids etc. You also get a feeling of satisfaction in doing it yourself.

One of the main reasons I do it myself is I like using the best oils and parts. While some garages use good parts, other will fill your engine from the "bulk" oil that they have and charge you premium prices.

Totally true! it's just a case of putting back in place what you took off with anything really and filling up with the right oils/water etc....very very easy to do a service

as for garages using good parts, they usually just use after market parts and oil as you say then charge massive prices for it, my mate took his shogun for it's service and took his own oil with him and asked them to put that in which they said yes to only when he went to pick it up he saw the oil container on the floor near the car un-opened after they said they had done it....they were adament they had done it until he showed them the container....he got a fresh oil change and discount

Garages can be very handy and there are some good ones about so i don't want to put them all down, but good ones are very very hard to find, plus i love tinkering with my car and always looking for things to do on it so it's just an excuse to go play with it