Repairing the central locking mechanism how to - MG-Rover.org Forums

CJJ · 26-09-2007, 20:28

Some of you may remember at the begining of the year I changed the passenger side door locking mechanism as it was doing the grindy, whirry thing.

I did an autopsy on it and found that a small plastic shaft had snapped off from the main housing, allowing a pawl to float free and not engage properly.

I had threatened at the time to repair it, but never really got around to it.

Well, I did an autopsy on the drivers side when I removed it yesterday and found exactly the same fault. While I was in the mood I decided to fix this one (will fix the passenger one at a later date).

The plan was to fit a new shaft to replace the snapped one. Obviously gluing the old one back in place would not last 2 minutes. I toyed with the idea of drilling though the case and fitting a rivet of the correct size, but this had its problems (could damage the plastic, would expand when rivetted in place and be too wide for the pawl). So I decided to narrow the plain shank of a screw and cut to size (8mm in length - 5mm of old shaft + 3mm depth of case). To give extra support and strength I welded a square of metal to one end.

I then drilled out the location of where the shaft used to be

I then pushed the new shaft though the casing and Araldited it to the outside of the case.

With the new shaft in place

I could refit the pawl

Reassemble the mechanism and mechanically test the levers.

All seems OK, but I will have to wait until I need a lock change again to try it out fully.

This may not be the same as all failures experienced by F/TF owners, but I have had 2 now and both have been the same. As you can see, a little hobbying and you can save yourself around £40 on ebay.

MGFmad · 26-09-2007, 20:38

Excellent work.

Mark.L · 26-09-2007, 20:48

Good work CJJ...

Why not offer a repair on a 'Exchange' basis??.. could make you a few ££'s given the amount of 'Project Dive' solenoid failures...

adamelphick · 26-09-2007, 20:53

Excellent! I have to check Megs drivers side again - makes a funny noise when double locked once more! I had it apart a year ago, greased it and stuff and it was ok, maybe something else has happened now!

CJJ · 26-09-2007, 20:54

Too busy working, playing or fiddling with my toys Mark.

CJJ · 26-09-2007, 20:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by adamelphick

Excellent! I have to check Megs drivers side again - makes a funny noise when double locked once more! I had it apart a year ago, greased it and stuff and it was ok, maybe something else has happened now!

If you take it apart, check that pawl. It looks OK but it is only when you "wiggle" it that you realise that it is loose and the shaft has come adrift. As I said, this may not be the same as everybodies problem, I think some people have reported stripped cogs. It is worth a check though.

adamelphick · 26-09-2007, 20:59

will do. last time the grease had turned to hard lumps so i thought that was it, cleaned and refilled it and seemed ok, but maybe as i filled it quite full the grease just held the pawl in place maybe for a while? I'll check it tomorrow or friday i think...

pete l · 27-09-2007, 07:43

This is a common fault on the deadlocking door locks, probably the only fault on them. Like you say, catch it early and deal with it and you won't get stuck.
Over on the 25/ZR forum, lots of locks have failed. I've rrepaired quite a few but not quite the same way as you did. What worries me about yours is you used araldite glue, I can't see that lasting very long, not on a hot summers day anyway.
I used a round long headed bolt, M3 if I'm not mistaken, I had to drill the plastic lever slightly so the head bolt would fit, drilled the plastic casing and held the bolt in place with a locking nut on the outside of the case, loctited as well just in case.

CJJ · 27-09-2007, 18:38

You could be right, but the glue doesn't do anything structural, it just stops the pin sliding out. Time will tell. I did consider a bolt or screw but was worried about cracking the casing and having the pawl sitting on a threaded portion. But then again, yours is probably tested. Mine isn't.

SCFC_Messiah · 02-04-2008, 13:41

Has this fix cured the problem CJJ? Or has it re-occured since?

Cheers

CJJ · 02-04-2008, 15:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCFC_Messiah

Has this fix cured the problem CJJ? Or has it re-occured since?

Cheers

I haven't fitted that unit to be honest. It is sitting as a spare in the garage waiting for the failure of the one I fitted. No reason why it shouldn't work though.

SCFC_Messiah · 02-04-2008, 16:52

Ah, ok!

Quick question- it only makes the clunking on deadlock for me- should I replace it (or fix it) or just stop using deadlock? As the normal lock works fine, maybe theres no point in going to the hassle of changing the locks? Or will the normal lock fail after time too?

Sorry for the questions!

Petevick · 02-04-2008, 16:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCFC_Messiah

Ah, ok!

Quick question- it only makes the clunking on deadlock for me- should I replace it (or fix it) or just stop using deadlock? As the normal lock works fine, maybe theres no point in going to the hassle of changing the locks? Or will the normal lock fail after time too?

Sorry for the questions!

Do NOT use dead locking until you have replaced the unit

Craigie TF · 02-04-2008, 17:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCFC_Messiah

Or will the normal lock fail after time too?

Yes it will! As petevick says dont use deadlocking until its been replaced or the door will be jammed shut! Available on ebay cheap.

SCFC_Messiah · 03-04-2008, 02:18

Oky doky guys! I will get replacements (that hopefully haven't broken as well!!!!) and use CJJs fix on my current locks in case the new ones break in the future!

Craigie- I just had a search on eBay and could only find one for a rear door!

Sorry about this lol, but two more questions:

1. It only seems to be the drivers side at fault, but should I still replace both doors? (3dr car)

2. Do the boot locks break too?

Petevick · 03-04-2008, 05:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCFC_Messiah

......Craigie- I just had a search on eBay and could only find one for a rear door!

........

either you've done a mod to beat all mods, or you don't have an F/TF..........ahh, your lost aren't you, I think you should be in the ZR section buddy

SCFC_Messiah · 03-04-2008, 14:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Petevick

either you've done a mod to beat all mods, or you don't have an F/TF..........ahh, your lost aren't you, I think you should be in the ZR section buddy

Nooo, I know where I am lol! But I was lead to believe CJJs fix will also sort out the MG ZR locks!.... Hence me being here

I just checked eBay as Craigie suggested and the only ZR locks I could find were for the 5dr rear door! (does the TF use the same motor as the ZR actually?)

Sorry, I should have made it more clear I have a ZR!

Craigie TF · 03-04-2008, 16:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCFC_Messiah

I just checked eBay as Craigie suggested and the only ZR locks I could find were for the 5dr rear door! (does the TF use the same motor as the ZR actually?)

Their plenty of TF ones on ebay!

And no the ZR locks are not the same as the TF.

look similar but are different.

Petevick · 03-04-2008, 17:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craigie TF

....And no the ZR locks are not the same as the TF.

look similar but are different.

pity really, otherwise we could have raided those tin toppers and nicked their locks

Craigie TF · 03-04-2008, 17:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Petevick

pity really, otherwise we could have raided those tin toppers and nicked there locks

Yes was a good

26-09-2007, 20:28	#1
CJJ Mudslinger extraordinaire Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Ashington, Northumberland Car: MGTF 160, Focus ST2, KTM 640, Kangoo Van Posts: 16,899	Repairing the central locking mechanism how to Some of you may remember at the begining of the year I changed the passenger side door locking mechanism as it was doing the grindy, whirry thing. I did an autopsy on it and found that a small plastic shaft had snapped off from the main housing, allowing a pawl to float free and not engage properly. I had threatened at the time to repair it, but never really got around to it. Well, I did an autopsy on the drivers side when I removed it yesterday and found exactly the same fault. While I was in the mood I decided to fix this one (will fix the passenger one at a later date). The plan was to fit a new shaft to replace the snapped one. Obviously gluing the old one back in place would not last 2 minutes. I toyed with the idea of drilling though the case and fitting a rivet of the correct size, but this had its problems (could damage the plastic, would expand when rivetted in place and be too wide for the pawl). So I decided to narrow the plain shank of a screw and cut to size (8mm in length - 5mm of old shaft + 3mm depth of case). To give extra support and strength I welded a square of metal to one end. I then drilled out the location of where the shaft used to be I then pushed the new shaft though the casing and Araldited it to the outside of the case. With the new shaft in place I could refit the pawl Reassemble the mechanism and mechanically test the levers. All seems OK, but I will have to wait until I need a lock change again to try it out fully. This may not be the same as all failures experienced by F/TF owners, but I have had 2 now and both have been the same. As you can see, a little hobbying and you can save yourself around £40 on ebay. __________________ *I like reality, I've been there a few times, but I wouldn't want to live there.*

26-09-2007, 20:54	#5
CJJ Mudslinger extraordinaire Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Ashington, Northumberland Car: MGTF 160, Focus ST2, KTM 640, Kangoo Van Posts: 16,899	Too busy working, playing or fiddling with my toys Mark. __________________ *I like reality, I've been there a few times, but I wouldn't want to live there.*

27-09-2007, 18:38	#9
CJJ Mudslinger extraordinaire Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Ashington, Northumberland Car: MGTF 160, Focus ST2, KTM 640, Kangoo Van Posts: 16,899	You could be right, but the glue doesn't do anything structural, it just stops the pin sliding out. Time will tell. I did consider a bolt or screw but was worried about cracking the casing and having the pawl sitting on a threaded portion. But then again, yours is probably tested. Mine isn't. __________________ *I like reality, I've been there a few times, but I wouldn't want to live there.*

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26-09-2007, 20:48	#3
Mark.L Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Cheshire Car: Honda S2000 Posts: 5,663	Good work CJJ... Why not offer a repair on a 'Exchange' basis??.. could make you a few ££'s given the amount of 'Project Dive' solenoid failures...

27-09-2007, 07:43	#8
pete l Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: France Car: MG ZR and MG TF Posts: 1,349	This is a common fault on the deadlocking door locks, probably the only fault on them. Like you say, catch it early and deal with it and you won't get stuck. Over on the 25/ZR forum, lots of locks have failed. I've rrepaired quite a few but not quite the same way as you did. What worries me about yours is you used araldite glue, I can't see that lasting very long, not on a hot summers day anyway. I used a round long headed bolt, M3 if I'm not mistaken, I had to drill the plastic lever slightly so the head bolt would fit, drilled the plastic casing and held the bolt in place with a locking nut on the outside of the case, loctited as well just in case.

02-04-2008, 13:41	#10
SCFC_Messiah Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Swansea Car: X-Power Grey MG ZR 105+ Posts: 528	Has this fix cured the problem CJJ? Or has it re-occured since? Cheers

02-04-2008, 16:52	#12
SCFC_Messiah Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Swansea Car: X-Power Grey MG ZR 105+ Posts: 528	Ah, ok! Quick question- it only makes the clunking on deadlock for me- should I replace it (or fix it) or just stop using deadlock? As the normal lock works fine, maybe theres no point in going to the hassle of changing the locks? Or will the normal lock fail after time too? Sorry for the questions!

03-04-2008, 02:18	#15
SCFC_Messiah Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Swansea Car: X-Power Grey MG ZR 105+ Posts: 528	Oky doky guys! I will get replacements (that hopefully haven't broken as well!!!!) and use CJJs fix on my current locks in case the new ones break in the future! Craigie- I just had a search on eBay and could only find one for a rear door! Sorry about this lol, but two more questions: 1. It only seems to be the drivers side at fault, but should I still replace both doors? (3dr car) 2. Do the boot locks break too?

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