HOW TO: Remove and replace brake discs and pads

[Broon]

I knwo there a few of these around, but what the hell, there might be somehting different.

1. First of all, jack up the car, and make safe with axle stands. USe the correct jack points, unlike in pic. Correct points are seen around rusty area further along




2. Remove road wheel. Also chock the front wheels (i used a plank of wood) and then put the handbrake off.





3. My discs were very scratched




4. However, its worth checking for cracks like this!!!!




5. Remove caliper slide pin bolts (12mm). Rmemeber these face the opposite way than normal, so turn them CLOCKWISE to rmeove, not anti.




6. Caliper can now be removed form carrier




7.

To prevent damage to the brake line, suspend caliper. I used a cable tie in this case. You can get reusable ones somewhere.





8. Now you can remove the old pads





9. NOw remove the carrier bolts (14mm) to rear of disc (2 of them)




10. Now remove caliper carrier



11. This is the hardest bit. Rmeoving the disc grub screws (not hard for me as I dont have any due to previous problems). They are a pig to get off and its best to use an IMpact Driver. This is a screwdriver whcih you hit with a hammer. If you are unlucky, you might have to drill them out!!



12. Now you need to remove the old disc. If its been on a while it may be severely rusted on. Mine were not too bad, I got away with a few hard taps witha rubber hammer, but you need to use a metal hammer. It doesnt manage if you damage disc.



13. Find an area you can hit fomr the rear, without hititng any other part of the car. Hit the disc hard, then turn the disc 1/4 , then hit, then turn etcetc.




14. You should eventually see rust falling off in chunks (see the road under myine) . This is from the hub/disc and indicates it is seperating. Once the disc is moving, rmeove by hand.



15. Give the hub a good clean. It is important to have a nice flush surface before adding new disc.



16. NOw get your new disc. They come with a chmical on the steel to prevent rusting. This needs to be rmeoved before use. Brake cleaner should do it, but I am using Methylated Spirit here.




17. NOw thge controversial bit. Some people say you should add a clean disc to a clean hub. Others swear by a good layer opf coppergrease to make removal easier in future. I went for the grease option




18. NOw place the disc on the hub and replace the grub screws (I bought nice new shiny ones) but mine would not fit due to drilled out bits still being there. Oh well



19. Now replace the caliper carrier, opposite of removal. Good time to give the springy bits a clean before you refit




17. Its helps to use a caliper rewinding tool like this. Its not cruucial, but does make things easier. You need to push the caliper back to fit over the new pads. You can either relase a bit of pressure at the nipple and put a rag/tissue round it, or just keep an eye on the fluid reservoir to make sure you are not makingit overflow.




18. I replaced my nipples at the same time, as part of "operation no rusty bolts".





19. Aply coppergrease liberally to rear of pads. Dont get this onto pad or disc!





20. Fit pads back in caliper carrier. Slip caliper over and reaplce bolts. Repalce road wheel. And ..... finished! (pump brake pedal a few times and then apply handbrake. Make sure rear wheel can no longer spin.





21. You may have notcied I painted the discs before fitting. This was not a chavvy option, but just looks better through the wheel, as it is usually just all rust. I used hammerite paint.

Remember to remove wood/etc from front wheels. Take for a short drive to test brakes. Rmemeber they wqill take a short while to bed in properly.

I know the calipers are a mess. I am going to go to black for the rear calipers and keep the fronts red. Just couldnt be bothered today as I had to go to work.

[CJJ]

Good work mate. Glad to see a fellow fan of coppercrest and blue gloves. The only thing I would add is if you grease the face of the disc you should check the torque of the securing screws and wheel nuts after a good drive.

Is that a proper jacking point you are using?

Did you borrow the jack and axle stands off Pete?

[Broon]

Originally Posted by CJJ

Good work mate. Glad to see a fellow fan of coppercrest and blue gloves. The only thing I would add is if you grease the face of the disc you should check the torque of the securing screws and wheel nuts after a good drive.

Is that a proper jacking point you are using?

Wondered if you would spot that. The jack points on that side of the car are collapsing!! DOnt know whey, the thick metal bits have bent inwards. That was the other point whcih had thicker metal.


I always recheck my torques after a short drive. I dont have the retaining screws, so thats out


Thanks.

I always start of well with the gloves, but then end up not using them so I have to bleach my hands in the end

[adamelphick]

Talking of bleaching after work - anyone remember DiDi7? The wonder cream we used to rub on our hands and all the crap dissapeared? Well I think someone rubbed it on the DiDi7 and that dissapeared too!

[Broon]

Originally Posted by adamelphick

Talking of bleaching after work - anyone remember DiDi7? The wonder cream we used to rub on our hands and all the crap dissapeared? Well I think someone rubbed it on the DiDi7 and that dissapeared too!

Swarfega? I find engine gunk degreaser works a treat, as long as you wash with normal soap afterwards.

[Herbie]

I always like to see old and new brake disc pics, dunno why

Great how-to Broon

[Broon]

Originally Posted by Herbie

I always like to see old and new brake disc pics, dunno why

Great how-to Broon

Me too. ONly thing is, in a few weeks they will look old again

[BIGGUNS]

Originally Posted by Broon

Swarfega? I find engine gunk degreaser works a treat, as long as you wash with normal soap afterwards.

Washing up liquid, and a large spoon of sugar.................... when you are round a mates, with no hand cleaner, saves leaving black marks on their towels!

WD40, works as well.

[mercodus]

..and don't wet your hands first

[BIGGUNS]

Originally Posted by Mr Macadoo

..and don't wet your hands first

Okay you have obviously done it!

Now one for the "no pain, no gain," freaks, washing powder, especially after skinning the knuckles.

[Broon]

I had neat bleach on my skinned knuckles today

[Dr Dave]

Hey there's bugger all wrong with those discs and pads! The light scoring is normal and that *crack* isn't a crack - it's a brake pads mark where the handbrake has been applied with a hot brake disc.

Good work though, nice to see you wearing gloves when dealing with copper grease, nasty stuff.

[cjmillsnun]

Originally Posted by Dr Dave

Hey there's bugger all wrong with those discs and pads! The light scoring is normal and that *crack* isn't a crack - it's a brake pads mark where the handbrake has been applied with a hot brake disc.

Good work though, nice to see you wearing gloves when dealing with copper grease, nasty stuff.

Funnily enough Dave, I was thinking the same thing..... Those discs and pads looked fine to me.

[Chris T]

They look slightly better then my front disc's.

[NandoDave]

Always worth remembering that there is jack points for the front and rear of the car when doing jobs on both sides of the car..... makes life a lot easier, and they are a lot sturdier than a) the side sills which are only really meant for the the emergency jack b) they look!

Nice job Broon, always nice to see someone giving pictorial guides to help the community save those much needed pennies!

[MGFmad]

Excellent guide Broon.

Your discs don't look too bad, unlike my O/S rear which was in a very bad state -

[JocksLodge]

Originally Posted by adamelphick

Talking of bleaching after work - anyone remember DiDi7? The wonder cream we used to rub on our hands and all the crap dissapeared? Well I think someone rubbed it on the DiDi7 and that dissapeared too!

http://www.asseenontv.com/prod-pages...ven_ultra.html

[Petevick]

holy thread revival