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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Car: SLKR171, Alfa Gt, 260Z
Posts: 9,646
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MGF Refurb Part 2 - Cup Alloys Refurb!
Right then! The biggest job of all that I have on the cards for sorting the F out was the wheels, as you can see from the following pics, they were well and truly corroded.
I must get an award for the amount of wheel weights on this one..... First, I gave all the wheels a good wash and scrub with Autoglyms machine cleaner, which got rid of the bulk of the dirt. Upon inspection, I could see that the paint on the inner face of the rim was pretty none existent. What little paint there was there flaked off when prodded with a fingernail. I used a drill fitted with a wire rotary bit and numerous grades of sandpaper. What I'll say at this point is that if your wheels are corroded as badly as mine, take it to a pro and pay £40 a wheel as when they're in this kind of state you'll spend hours bent double grinding and sanding away. I ached for days after this! If you have a multi-tool like a dremel, it makes the detail parts a whole lot easier, particularly if you've got the proper mini sanding drums. If you are a total mug and you carry on doing it, an easy way to mask up is to drop the wheels in a bin bag, then cut a circle out and mask up around the alloy, it saves no end of time. Don't forget to mask the rear face of the wheel where it mates to the hub. You don't want this surface to have paint on it. I used a small tube of P38 filler to take out the worst of the defects and blemishes, and then sanded it back down. Three coats of high build primer and they begin to look like championship white alloys you'd find on a type-r...... Then came two coats of Plastikote's super bright Argent Silver paint. I'm pretty sure you'll agree that the finish is amazing considering it came from a can. But trouble was around the corner, you cannot laquer this paint. I left it for three days to dry but when I went to laquer, it it just mottled and reacted like I'd poured sulphuric acid on it!!! So, totally gutted and irritated I just used up a can of Ford Moondust Silver I had lying about in the garage. This laquered up with no problems and the wheels looked just like a new set, but nowhere near the shine that I'd managed with the original plastikote spray. Then applied some Ø50mm badges I'd got from ebay as the ones in the centres were knackered and bubbled... And added some shiny valve caps (ebay - £1.99). As an aside, drop some copperslip on these type of caps, as ali and steel will meld and if you don't take the caps off for six months then you'll find yourself having to cut them off. Bitter personal experience there. There's some patches on the rear inner face of the rim that really aren't up to stratch. This is why I think that if your alloys are really bad, get a pro to do it as you just can't see the damage until it's sprayed and finished. And here's the finished article. For the princely sum of £28 I'm rather pleased! To be honest theres some damage that I missed and my sanding of the filler leaves a bit to be desired by a pro, but on the face of it, they're ten times better than before. I'm just gutted that I couldn't make the bright finish stick. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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good job mate
![]() I used plasticote on my calipers and they laquered without any problems. for the wheels though i used the original Sparkle silver and Laquer. hard work job mate but definatly worth doing
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Car: SLKR171, Alfa Gt, 260Z
Posts: 9,646
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Just to add some more pics, heres what the bright finish looks like compared to the other regular alloys, how gutted am I
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Car: SLKR171, Alfa Gt, 260Z
Posts: 9,646
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I found out it's something to do with the finish, regular silver colours are fine, I've done them several times before, but this stuff has some sort of special finish to it, and if you read all the way down the small print it says "not for automotive use"!!!! That'll teach me!
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#5 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#6 |
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is trying...
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Pontypool, South Wales Car: TF 160
Posts: 5,644
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I don't actually like the super bright silver paint, it looks cheap, and well, plastic
![]() The moondust silver looks better imo. Job well done and good pics and write up
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#7 |
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regained interest
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excellent write up Steven, one for my site methinks
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Pete Vickerstaff - Proud to drive an MG TF 160 in Trophy Yellow ![]() MG F/TF Central - your one stop shop for MGF/TF tips, tricks, faq's, how to's and links Soft Resin Badges for sale |
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#8 |
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MGs on Track
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Great job Steven. I've got a set round the back waiting for similar treatment but waiting for warmer weather. I think the colour looks OK but if you don't like it you can go over them with something else. You've done all the hard work. Do a test area round the back first though in case its not compatible.
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#9 |
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Werder Supporter
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That's great Steven
![]() I'm no painter but what about topping it up with 1 or 2 coats of clear lacquer ?
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Stephan Hebert MGF 1.8i / 1998 MK 1 / HB-SH 718 / CAQ Daytona - 52mm TB - TF Steering Rack - Compliance Washers - Clear Indicators - Assorted Bling |
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Car: SLKR171, Alfa Gt, 260Z
Posts: 9,646
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Cheers! Look out for the next instalment...........
I'm waiting for a response from Plastikote as to what I should have done with them, as it was plastikote's own laquer that snarled them up which seems pretty unusual. |
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Car: SLKR171, Alfa Gt, 260Z
Posts: 9,646
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I did 3 Coats of Plastikote's own after the moondust silver. Would've been a total waste with no laquer as the brake dust would chew through paint in no time at all.
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#12 |
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Werder Supporter
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Ahh sorry, didn't know what Plastikote's is
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Stephan Hebert MGF 1.8i / 1998 MK 1 / HB-SH 718 / CAQ Daytona - 52mm TB - TF Steering Rack - Compliance Washers - Clear Indicators - Assorted Bling |
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Car: SLKR171, Alfa Gt, 260Z
Posts: 9,646
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#14 |
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Now with added Orange
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: In Between Northampton and Milton Keynes Car: TF135 and Skoda Octavia (surprisingly good!!)
Posts: 4,821
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Great job Steven
...have some rep too
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#15 |
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Trader Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Car: Other Manufacturer
Posts: 33,381
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when you had finished sanding the wheels did you clean them afterwards with any panel wipe/tack rag?
I had exactly the same problem with one wheel that I had not degreased correctly before painting and then adding the clear. This is the wheel I had to repaint (in Vaxuhall Metallic Silver - as close as anything to rovers own but half the price per can) and what it looked like close up after repainting |
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#16 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Car: SLKR171, Alfa Gt, 260Z
Posts: 9,646
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Why thank you my good man!!! Cheers!
Quote:
If anyone gets the bright finish to work it'd be good to see how. |
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#17 |
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Supporter
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Oww my Steven!
Those wheels look STUNNING, both times round! I think i shall be going for a lighter + shinier silver when i spray my 200's wheels, because damn they look gooood!
__________________
'69 MG Midget | '78 Yamaha FS1e | '89 MG Metro | '09 Suzuki Bandit
'FDH' Rover 220 Turbo Coupe |
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#18 | |
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Trader Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Car: Other Manufacturer
Posts: 33,381
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#19 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Car: MG ZR
Posts: 898
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i think im going to get mine done by a pro, 30 quid per wheel shot blasted and baked proffesionally,i think if i did it myself i'd be doing them again in the next 12 months tbh,seems like too much hard work for an ok finish thats not gauranteed to flake and peel,mg alloys were done half cocked by the manufacturer anyway so doing a d.i.y job just seems like a waste of time.
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#20 |
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Supporter
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I had my TD cosmo's acid dipped, shotblasted and powdercoated, finish was nice, but you must take into account that youve got to have your tires taken off (usually not inc the £30 per wheel price) and then have them refitted. This and the fact that you wont get as shinier a finish with powdercoat (unless they laquer it afterwards, which imho is cheating)
All mg/rover alloys were done half cocked, the paint doesnt stand up to heat at all and is pretty much crap, but then you look at aftermarket wheels and its the same, a freinds KN vectors powdercoat was literally non existant! it had all just flaked off the inside of the wheel, and then spread to the outside. A DIY job, dont to a high standard will last just as long as powdercoat. and the fact that it costs £30-40 to do 4 wheels, and you can do it in a weekend, its kind of an awesome win/win to me!
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'69 MG Midget | '78 Yamaha FS1e | '89 MG Metro | '09 Suzuki Bandit
'FDH' Rover 220 Turbo Coupe |
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