ZS wheel with ICE & C/C controls

[VVC Les]

Well here goes for my first how to, hope you can understand it. I fitted the cruise control recommended by CJJ the AUDIOVOX CCS-100 and thought about taking it one step further and came up with the thought of paddle controls on the steering wheel. I had a good look around for a suitable wheel and decided to go for the ZS steering wheel. The ZS wheel is only slightly bigger in diameter but not by much and I have no trouble driving with it fitted, as a matter of fact I now prefer it to the TF wheel.

For the cruise control bits you will need:
ZS wheel with air bag.
Rotary coupler for 45/ZS. (Don’t know if the one on the TF is compatible).
6 pin multi plug for back of Rotary coupler. (If you can get one from a donor with ICE and C/C paddles all the better, it will have all the 6 pins and wire that you will need. I used a couple of them to get the extra 3 pins I needed).
Front fog light switch. (£9 inc pp from Rimmer Bros) and its multi plug with a little wire left on (Breakers yard). Front Fog light switch needed because it’s a click on click off switch not a momentary switch.
1 x Relay YWB 10012
Female spade connectors and appropriate extra wire and your run of the mill heat shrink.
Soldering iron and wire.

For the ICE remote you will need an AUTOLEADS adapter. My radio is the standard Kenwood KDC M6021G. The adapter I got from Just Kenwood. I needed the PC99-X39-KEN.
http://www.justkenwood.co.uk/install...del.asp?id=165

Please keep in mind I fitted this to the AUDIOVOX CCS-100 so the colour coding and set up may be different on other C/C systems. This next bit for my ease I borrowed from cjmillsnun, thank you mate . So please don’t do me for copy right fees I’m a poor, poor penniless man (ask her in doors).

WARNING: This procedure involves removing and refitting the steering wheel airbag. READ THROUGH this procedure thoroughly and follow it methodically otherwise there is a high possibility of the airbag deploying!

1. Remove SRS fuse (or disconnect the battery negative terminal) and go make a cuppa and drink it... (Wait for at least 15 minutes from removing the fuse/disconnecting the battery before going onto step 2)

2. Using a T30 Screwdriver undo the 2 airbag retaining screws that are in the rear of the steering wheel.

3. Gently Pull the airbag from the steering wheel and detach the yellow wire from the airbag (note which way up it goes!)

4. Unclip the black multiplug from the rotary coupler.

5. Lock the steering. then using a 19mm socket loosen the nut that holds the steering wheel on so that it is able to be undone with fingers.

6. Move the steering wheel to the straight ahead position and remove the nut.

7. Remove the steering wheel and stick some sticky tape over the rotary coupler so that it cannot move.

8. Undo the 3 philips screws underneath the steering column that hold the plastic steering column trim on. and remove the trim.

9. Undo the 4 philips screws that hold the rotary coupling to the column. remove the multi plug from the back of the rotary coupler and remove the coupler. Leave the replacement one off for the time being.



1. In preparation you will need to do a little work on the new wheel. You will see that at the back where it fits onto the splined shaft it has a neck with 2 slots cut into it (see pic TF wheel) which goes down to a shoulder. The neck on the ZS wheel is longer than the TF. On the ZS wheel this needs to be cut flush with the shoulder and 2 new slots cut into it. Cutting the neck flush enables the wheel to seat properly on the shaft and does not leave a gap between the back of the wheel and the column covers. When you cut the new slots make sure they are cut VERTICAL the same as the TF wheel.




2. Now for the wiring. If you’ve managed to get hold of a multi plug for the back of the rotary coupler from a 45 or ZS that’s had ICE and cruise control on, it will have all 6 pins and a good length of wire still attached and will save you a bit of work. If not get hold of a couple of them so you can use them to donate the pins and put enough wire on them to reach at least behind the blank switches in the centre console. Or better still if you can buy new pins you will just need to wire and fit them into the existing multi plug. I got hold of one which just had the 2 wires for the ICE and the horn so I used the old multi and another to make up the other 3 pins I needed. I found it easier to make the new multi plug with all 6 pins in it and cut the existing one off as this has only 2 wires and 1 will be redundant anyway.

The multi plug pins are numbered as follows to match up to the steering wheel multi plug through the rotary coupler: 1. = C/C Set +. 2. = C/C Resume. 3. = Horn relay to brake switch. 4. = Horn relay. 5. = White wire for ICE to PC99 adapter. 6. = Pink wire for ICE to PC99 adapter.


Once you’ve cut the old multi plug off and fitted the new one (make sure you’ve put enough wire on it to reach the back of the radio and C/C control switch respectively) tape up the black earth wire to the loom which on the TF is No 6 as this is now redundant, as the ZS wheel when fitted is earthed in the centre. No 6 pin/wire will now become part of the ICE circuit. You will now have to join together the new No 4 horn wire from the multi plug to the No 4 horn wire to the loom. This is the time to splice the wire from pin 3 on the multi plug onto the wire from pin 4. Pin 3 on the 45/ZS is for the C/C brake switch through the horn relay. You don’t need it for the brake switch on the AUDIOVOX system as this is already wired in if you have this cruise control system fitted, but you do need it for the horn circuit.



Next feed the remaining 4 wires which ever way you want, 1 and 2 to the c/c switch and 5 and 6 to the back of the radio. Now cut off the AUDIOVOX c/c switch. Join wire No 1 SET & + from the multi plug to the YELLOW RES wire on the c/c loom then wire No 2 RES from the multi plug to the GREEN SET & + wire on the c/c loom. This may sound wrong but I connected them No 1 to GREEN and No 2 to YELLOW and found they worked the opposite way round. You should now be left with 4 wires from the c/c loom: RED, BROWN, GREY and BLACK.
The RED wire is live feed from the c/c fused link goes onto blade 87 of the relay. BROWN is the feed to the c/c servo assembly and goes to blade 30 on the relay. The BLACK wire goes to chassis earth. You now have only the GREY wire left.

Now to the multi plug for the new c/c switch.
In my case the multi plug for this switch ended up being a multi plug for the heated rear window because the Muppet who sent me the plug sent me the wrong one so I just cut the locating lugs of it so I could fit it to the fog light switch and used that in lieu so the pin No for the switch multi plug refer to a heated window switch multi plug. The pin No are different on the multi plug for the front fog switch, but the 4 wires still work the same way i.e. live in., earth out, switch illum is RED & BLACK, on/off light illum is GREEN & BLACK.

Pin No 1 on the plug goes to any live feed. Pin No 2 RED & BLACK goes to the GREY c/c loom wire for switch illumination. Pin No 4 goes to blade 85 on the relay. Pin No 5 GREEN & BLACK goes to blade 86 on the relay, this is for the switch on/off light. You will also need to take a wire to chassis earth from blade 86 as well.


At this stage you can re-fit the rotary coupler and wheel, connect the battery back up and test you new switch for the illumination and on/off lights. If that checks out go have a brew.

The fitting of the PC99 adapter is just follow the instruction provided. You will have to get an ISO plug to match the one on the adapter that carries the PINK & WHITE wires to connect the PINK & WHITE wires from the wheel paddles. Maplins is a good bet for this. The one thing I have found though is the volume paddle decreases the volume and the channel search paddle increases the volume. I have spoken to AUTOLEADS Technical dept and they have told me that this is due to the way the adaptor module is programmed. I am in the mean time looking at a way to over come this problem. Apart from this you should now have fully functioning paddle controls on your steering wheel.



Now you can have a few scoops . Only kidding, you’ve still got to sort out the logo on the front of the switch. For this I took the button off the fog light switch, got some really fine wet and dry and cut the black off until the white face of the switch showed through. I then made a stencil, cut it out and stuck it on. I then sprayed the button with a couple of light coats of satin black acrylic. I found this to be the closest match to the switch colour.

If any one does this mod and wants the stencils, I still have them on my PC and can send them you. You then just need to print them out on sticky back return address labels and go from there.

And this is what you should end up with.



Lastly the normal disclaimer applies that I can’t accept responsibility for anything that goes wrong, but if you need any help just send me a PM and I’ll be glad to help out.

HAPPY DAYS

[Petevick]

excellent stuff

[VVC Les]

Originally Posted by Petevick

excellent stuff

Is the ZS wheel a larger dia than the TF wheel ??

Only by a fraction Pete. I will get the 2 dias and put them on

[CJJ]

Some people just have to take it one step further.

Nice mod mate. How are you finding the cruise control? I tend to use mine all the time.

Can I add a link to this on the bottom of my CC how to? and then people will see there are different options.

[VVC Les]

Originally Posted by CJJ

Some people just have to take it one step further.

Nice mod mate. How are you finding the cruise control? I tend to use mine all the time.

Can I add a link to this on the bottom of my CC how to? and then people will see there are different options.

Thanks CJJ. I find it great to use as I can keep both hands on the wheel when i'm setting it so still keeping full control of the car. No probs with the link mate, you go ahead and add it.

[Petevick]

I've added two links to my web site, How To - Engine & Exhaust and Tips & Tricks - ICE

[Chris T]

Fantastic stuff Tank man.

[MGFNorway]

Thank you Tankman for your info about the boot pop switch.
Excellent guide btw! Top notch!

Morten

[MGFmad]

Another good how to, excellent work

[VVC Les]

Thank you one and all very much appreciated.

[Yigit]

Excellent work there Tankman

[brooky]

nice job on the upgrade mate, just wondering where you got your wiper stalks from

[Chris T]

The stalks are from a late Rover 800.

[brooky]

cheers mate are they a direct replacement or is modifying needed?

[Turbo TF]

Have you used these CC switches on the steering wheel to operate an aftermarket Cruise Control kit?
If so was it the same kit as CJJ used?

[Chris T]

Originally Posted by brooky

cheers mate are they a direct replacement or is modifying needed?

They are a straight swap see http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=143946

[VVC Les]

Originally Posted by Turbo TF

Have you used these CC switches on the steering wheel to operate an aftermarket Cruise Control kit?
If so was it the same kit as CJJ used?

Yes i've used the c/c on wheel with the kit cjj recommened and it works fine.

[Turbo TF]

Did you amnage to get the variable intermttant wipe working

[VVC Les]

No not yet, the experts are still working on that one.

[Turbo TF]

Sorry I didn't quite catch that! A bit louder please so that it shows!!