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Old 01-05-2008, 23:24   #1
MGFNorway
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14.50£ Boot pop from Ebay "How to", LHD car.

Hello.

I know there is a couple of how to's out there, several on Pete's site. This is my way of doing it. It's wired live all the time which means it can be operated without using the key. If you want your boot pop to only operate when you have turned the key, please search the forum for threads that describes this. Here we go.:

First of all, disconnect your battery before you do anything.

I wanted to install a boot pop in my car, browsed Ebay and found a cheap set for 14.50£. The set looks like this:

Image 1:


And his is what was included in the kit:

Image 2:



First of all, there is not nearly enough wire in the kit and not enough connectors. So I had to use some of my stuff.:

Image 3:


I also bought a Saab 9-3 boot pop switch off ebay for a couple of £.:

Image 4:




Alright, let's begin. First picture is a wiring diagram, this is included in the kit.:

Image 5:


I wanted to have the relay, fuse and so on up front:

Image 6:


Then I had to find a suitable place to run the wires, I chose this: (It would be different on RHD cars I guess)



After the wires where in place:

Image 7:


The wires:
Red one is number 30 from the relay, which goes all the way back to the solenoid.

Image 8:


I hid it here:
Image 9:


The black ones is from 87 and 85 on the relay, to the switch:

Image 10:



The solenoid itself was placed right next to the boot mechanism, I had to drill two holes to make it fit:

Image 11:


I found it more suitable to use a piece of wire that I had to operate the mechanism, this does not affect the key operated OEM way to open the boot. This means that I'm able to choose if I want to use the key or the boot pop kit. (I don't trust a 14.50£ set of ebay. )

Image 12:


The earth wire from the solenoid (blue wire, ref. image 5) is connected to the chassie with a bolt thats already there, it's just below the connector in this picture:

Image 13:



All I had to do after this was tidy a bit up, see pictures below:

Image 14:


Image 15:
The switch under the steering rack:


Image 16:
View of bootlid:


Image 17:
View of lower bootlid:


Thats it. Hope this helps you if you are wondering about installing a boot pop kit.

Regards,
Morten


Edit: I used a piece of string to place the wires where I wanted them to be in the bootlid itself.:

Image 18:

Last edited by MGFNorway; 01-05-2008 at 23:51.
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Old 02-05-2008, 00:38   #2
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Fantastic. Thanks very much

Button looks OEM!!!
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Old 02-05-2008, 06:18   #3
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Nice job and report

Just one thing - your boot is now not secure when parked. OK for a tin top but a soft top is not secure from someone leaning into the car if you are parked with the roof down. You might want to think about taking the power feed from a circuit which is live only when the key is in the ignition rather than directly from the battery.

Keep a close eye on any wear that might happen to the insulation of the cables coming through the boot lid in image 17, the sharp metal edge and vibration may cut it. Maybe think about slitting that grommet with a craft knife and snuggling the cables into the centre.

Last edited by Tim.; 02-05-2008 at 06:23.
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Old 02-05-2008, 07:19   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim. View Post
Nice job and report

Just one thing - your boot is now not secure when parked. OK for a tin top but a soft top is not secure from someone leaning into the car if you are parked with the roof down. You might want to think about taking the power feed from a circuit which is live only when the key is in the ignition rather than directly from the battery.

Keep a close eye on any wear that might happen to the insulation of the cables coming through the boot lid in image 17, the sharp metal edge and vibration may cut it. Maybe think about slitting that grommet with a craft knife and snuggling the cables into the centre.
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, i considered not to have it wired live at all time. But I never leave the car with the hood down and if someone is so interested in getting in the boot they will find nothing of any value. But I'll think about it and mayby wire it defferently in the future.

Will follow your advise on the bootlidwiring.. Excellent tip, thanks.
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Old 02-05-2008, 07:52   #5
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Old 07-05-2008, 07:05   #6
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Very good and detailed instructions !
I think too you should have wired it so that operating the remote boot opening is only possible when the contact and the handrake are on...
That's simple, you can use the wire from handbrake light to operate your relay (85). And in that way, the 85 (control) and 87 (power) won't be from the same feed anymore, what would be better from a "good practice" point of view. In your circuit, you don't use a relay for what it's intended (in fact your relay is superfluous as you use the same high current feed for control and power).
Having the power feed from a separate line from the battery is a good point, because the big solenoid produces brief transitional current variations, and it's good to have electronic equipments separated from that.

And BTW, thanks for the Saab 9.3 switch tip !
Is it from the latest shape 9.3, or the old one ?

Last edited by fabrice; 07-05-2008 at 07:12.
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Old 07-05-2008, 10:24   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fabrice View Post
In your circuit, you don't use a relay for what it's intended (in fact your relay is superfluous as you use the same high current feed for control and power).
Eh, he uses the relay to handle the high current drawn by the boot solenoid which could not be handled directly by the switch without melting it!

So it's perfectly correct as far as I can see.

As for the transients, if it's a good quality relay it might have a diode and cap anyways, so that's probably moot too.

Chris...
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Old 07-05-2008, 19:53   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fabrice View Post
And BTW, thanks for the Saab 9.3 switch tip !
Is it from the latest shape 9.3, or the old one ?
Thank you for your feedback. In time I think I will connect it to the handbreak or something.

I'm not a Saab person so I don't know really, the new one I think, 900 "new shape" or the 9-3.
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Old 07-05-2008, 20:04   #9
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Btw. There is a lot of different boot switches on ebay, most can be used on the F/TF, just do a search after "boot switch", I'm sure you will find one that you like. French washerjets, Italien TB (Dellorto) and swedish switches. hehe.
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Old 07-05-2008, 20:08   #10
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Awesome post mate, nice efforts !
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Old 07-05-2008, 20:29   #11
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Awesome post mate, nice efforts !
Danke schön herr Herbie. Es ist gut zu zehen das Sie mein "how to" mögen.
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Old 07-05-2008, 20:36   #12
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is this the same switch?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SAAB-900-9000-...ayphotohosting
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Old 07-05-2008, 21:04   #13
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Yes, that one looks just the same as mine.
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Old 07-05-2008, 21:12   #14
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Yes, that one looks just the same as mine.
Thats my weekend sorted then lol
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Old 07-05-2008, 21:19   #15
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Good effort and great post....

Going to have to get around to this myself now!
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Old 07-05-2008, 21:45   #16
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Danke schön herr Herbie. Es ist gut zu zehen das Sie mein "how to" mögen.
Vær så god, bare hyggelig

(I hope it's correct, took me ages to find)
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Old 30-05-2008, 15:13   #17
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Mines just turned up so will be messing with it this weekend (with several trips to Maplins by the looks of it!).

However, I like the Handbrake Light option but am not sure where would be the best place to take a tap from. Can anyone suggest?

Cheers
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:28   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tytalus View Post
Mines just turned up so will be messing with it this weekend (with several trips to Maplins by the looks of it!).

However, I like the Handbrake Light option but am not sure where would be the best place to take a tap from. Can anyone suggest?

Cheers
from the handbrake light switch : its next to the handbrake and easy to access.
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:55   #19
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Tytalus,

I installed this exact kit of Friday - now just waiting to find a nice switch to finish it off.

I used the handbrake light connector as well. It's a spade connector on the nearside of the handbrake. I found it a real fiddle to get back on, perhaps because I didn't have the piggy-back connector used above. I guess you need to remove the whole center console to get a proper look at it.

All in all, the kit went on OK, took most of the day though.

I installed it slightly differently from the how-to above.
I used the cigar lighter for all the power, and mounted the relay in the well below the armrest.
I also found that the earthing for the solenoid was possible from the boot lock mechanism (with just the small amount of wire already on the solenoid), which meant I only had to feed one wire through the boot and into the car.

If you think I can be of any help, please let me know

thanks
Richard
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Old 02-06-2008, 15:04   #20
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I am curious about your set up. I have exactly the same kit as you but my solenoid is turned the other way as the solenoid arm pushes out when current applied so pulling the boot lock mechanism from left to right if you are facing frontwards whereas the way you have it would not open up the boot at all as the solenoid will go from right to left and hence not open the boot!
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