r75 1.8 conny problems after hgf

[spudblinky]

Hi guys

had the car converted to lpg about a year ago all running perfectly both on petrol and gas

then got the dreaded hgf grrrrr

had it fixed but when i got the car back. its a big dissapointment heres whats happening with mine

btw its a 1.8 petrol/gas 75 conny 1999 t reg

get in car start engine always starts first time.
car sits at 800 revs idle. after about 2-5 mins the revs start getting sloppy slightly dropping to 600revs and engine starts getting jerky shuddering the whole car thats at idle if i press the accellerator then at around the 1000 revs the engine goes smooth again and all juddering goes

put the car into first gear and away i go ( kind of ) alot of juddering. until the revs go past 1000 - 2000 revs then it smooths out come to a stop at lights/roundabout/junction 8 out of ten times it will sit at idle revs ( 800 )
but the other two times it will fall below the revs and cut out completley
i have always been able to restart the engine. it does this more when the engine is cold. ( also once it cuts out the battery light comes on )
also when the car is ticking over idle revs the exhaust is spluttering and when the accellerator is pressed there is a smell of petrol from the exhaust pipe ???

once the engine has warmed up abit no matter if its on gas or petrol
the car runs fine ie motorway cruising is smooth until there is a uphill climb its struggle and judders

when i am running around town in stop start traffic, its always juddery below 2000 revs until the engine gets hot. then i get the revs going up on their own ? i have to put my foot under the accellerator pedal and lift it up this cancels out the revving which happens everytime i come to a stop with a hot engine

i took it back to the mechanic that did the hg and he stood there scratching his head and said "ummmmmmm i think its something to do with the gas"
alot of help he was...

so i took it back to the place that fitted the gas who connected the diagnostic tools and found the engine to be burning almost double the petrol it should be he tried to connect to the ecu ( i think it was under the steering wheel ) but it couldnt connect kept spitting out errors

i'm at my wits end now as i need this car for work

any ideas guys

[Ex Tester]

Have you tried starting it on one or the other ie petrol or gas?

Turn the gas off altogether, does that cure the problem?

Is the coolant temp sensor connected ? If its not it will run rich.

[spudblinky]

thanks for your reply it still acts the same wether started on petrol or gas

ive located the coolant temp sensor it is all present and connected
anyone have anymore ideas i could try ?

[GUNN]

I do believe its the Idle control solenoid, if its failing to keep idle and revving when its not supposed to then the control solenoid will be at fault. The solenoid is situated to the left of the throttle body, its bolted onto the manifold with a short pipe going to the throttle body.

[cjmillsnun]

Check all vacuum pipes are connected.

The K will run rough at idle if there is a vacuum pipe split or disconnected.

[spudblinky]

is the idle control solenoid = idle air control valve ?

and would this cause the engine to run real jumpy and the exhaust splutter ?
i have found a leak in the smaller water hoses underneath the airfilter the one that goes into the thermostat casing. ordered a new hose

car ran really jumpy today until in 4th/5th gear it smoothed out
not alot of power in lower gears moving of from standstill sounded like a moped spluttering
also ive noticed if i rev the enigine using the throttle body in the engine bay if i press it fast theres a slight delay and a hiss before the engine revs.

[GUNN]

Originally Posted by spudblinky

is the idle control solenoid = idle air control valve ?

and would this cause the engine to run real jumpy and the exhaust splutter ?
i have found a leak in the smaller water hoses underneath the airfilter the one that goes into the thermostat casing. ordered a new hose

car ran really jumpy today until in 4th/5th gear it smoothed out
not alot of power in lower gears moving of from standstill sounded like a moped spluttering
also ive noticed if i rev the enigine using the throttle body in the engine bay if i press it fast theres a slight delay and a hiss before the engine revs.

Yip thats the one, if its malfunctioning and not closing or opening properly it will cause very lumpy running giving you lean and rich mixes that will upset your engine and management. A leak in a vacum pipe will cause similar problems also, can you tell in more detail where the hiss actually comes from?

You can go 2 ways, get your car hooked up to a T4 diagnostics machine used by landrover garages which will cost around £50 or source a replacement Idle air control valve and try it but it may not definatly be your problem.

[spudblinky]

the hiss sounds like its coming from just left of the throttle body maybe underneath its more of like a fifffff as when you push down on a footpump its only for a second then the engine kicks in

ineed to use the car for work just hae to take it easy before i can get it booked in for a diagnostic
is there a way to test the idle air control valve without any special tools etc do i need to unbolt it from the manifold ?

[GUNN]

Originally Posted by spudblinky

the hiss sounds like its coming from just left of the throttle body maybe underneath its more of like a fifffff as when you push down on a footpump its only for a second then the engine kicks in

ineed to use the car for work just hae to take it easy before i can get it booked in for a diagnostic
is there a way to test the idle air control valve without any special tools etc do i need to unbolt it from the manifold ?

Thats exactly where the Idle control valve is situated, a hiss would indicate a knackered pipe, inspect all the pipes around in that area but the hiss could also be the injectors and fuel system working as the common rail is situated there also. Unfortunatly I dont think there is a way of testing the valve as its a motor opening and closing the valve. With a multimeter your could test the resistance of the motor coil but I dont think its burnt out I just think its getting jammed. As said before you need to get it hooked up to a T4 or seek a replacement to test, there are many full plastic manifolds on ebay that are going for pennies, maybe email a seller if you could by the valve? I wouldnt pay anymore than a tenner for a second hand one.

EDIT: I suggest emailing these guys as I think they could help...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-k-series...2em118Q2el1247