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#1 |
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Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Oxford Car: F mk2 VVC
Posts: 103
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How to replace clutch and flywheel (picture heavy)
After I tortured myself doing it I thought I post it up here for everyone:
the whole thing is based on Dieter’s manual: http://www.mgfcar.de/gearbox/clutch_replacement_MGF.htm first of all I left the car on the ground, didn’t want to break my back so I did everything as far as I could without raising it: First disconnect the battery ![]() then the cover ![]() that needs to be cleared out, luckily I don’t have any standard stuff so it was a bit easier ![]() after the airfilter was removed ![]() those 2 screws at the fuel filter and 3 screws under the filling stud, bit tricky but possible, then remove the whole thing ![]() remove the screw holding the lambda clip and the fuel pipes ![]() |
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#2 |
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Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Oxford Car: F mk2 VVC
Posts: 103
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here are several things that can be done, disconnect rearlightconnector, startercable, startercableclip
![]() because I have a clutch support bracket I needed to remove the manifold cover and remove the screw from the other side ![]() remove the speedo plug ![]() remove the 4 slave-cylinder bracket screws, move the cylinder towards the firewall the tool for proper heroes 200Nm , that helped me a lot…I loosened up the 4 screws of the gearbox support bridge but don’t remove it yet ![]() here a pic how I reached them ![]() and the tricky screw on the other side ![]() now I need to raise the car, so up it went and 2 stands under it, taking off both wheels and the cover |
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#3 |
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Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Oxford Car: F mk2 VVC
Posts: 103
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for easy access to the starter, use an extension to reach the screws
![]() and gone ![]() now the gearbox oil, you can see both screws, upper “in”, lower “out” ![]() because I didn’t have the proper tool I used this ![]() to avoid the release of the suspension fluid you lift the suspension till it almost lifts off, then put a wedge in between, but first remove the rubber thingy… do that on both sides ![]() shaft already out, nice view into the differential ![]() raise the gearbox from below, release the vertical screw, remove the bridge and take off the gearbox bracket now the shiftcables, I only removed the upper cable with bracket completely, the rest can stay, makes it easier ![]() |
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#4 |
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Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Oxford Car: F mk2 VVC
Posts: 103
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now the serious stuff…. The gearbox… you will need 2 car jacks and some good books
![]() if you place the jack like this you can pull the gearbox away afterwards ![]() now remove the rest of the screws with the powertool, very easy.. ![]() finally, gearbox is seperated ![]() some advice, rotate the gearbox 90 degrees clockwise so the clutchlever is facing upwards, this way you can drop the gearbox and it stays like this removing the clutch is easy, very much self explaining ones you see it, here the old one ![]() view from bottom to top ![]() that thing will also be replaced with one with nipples 8) ![]() here a comparison of old and new: 3kg EN24 very niice ![]() |
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#5 |
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Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Oxford Car: F mk2 VVC
Posts: 103
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engine side without the flywheel, careful it might leak a bit at the lower screw
![]() and fitted already, flywheel with AP racing clutch, perfect !! ![]() Ok from now on I didn’t make any pictures anymore for the sake of the camera, because I got seriously frustrated for the next 2 hours trying to realign the gearbox and fit it back on the engine, what a nightmare. Problem is that there are 3 align pins on the gearbox side which need to be slotted into the engine, not only do you need to get the gearbox shaft fit into the clutchplate, but also those 3 pins. I got at the end so frustrated that I took some screws, put them in where I could and just tightened them, fortunately it actually worked and the gearbox slotted into place… yeah high five… The rest was easy… just put it back together in reverse order…… |
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#6 |
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Administrator
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What an excellent post, well done, I know how frustrating the alignment of the gearbox to the engine can be. Sometimes they will go first go, no problems, other times they will be a right pig.
Well done!
__________________
![]() '06 330d M Sport Auto || Evolve Switch 300PS 500ft/lb || BMW Performance Brakes || Paddleshift Retrofit || Alpine HiFi Upgrade || 6CD retrofit || BMWP Gloss Grilles || oh and a Witter detachable hidden towbar LOL |
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#7 |
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regained interest
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that is bloody fantastic matey, well done
. And the best use of MCSE books as well
__________________
Pete Vickerstaff - Proud to drive an MG TF 160 in Trophy Yellow ![]() MG F/TF Central - your one stop shop for MGF/TF tips, tricks, faq's, how to's and links Soft Resin Badges for sale |
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Hull Car: MGF
Posts: 404
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Great Job, how long did it take you, apart from the 2 hours of aliment, and do you only need to remove the offside shaft? I need to do mine at some point.
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#9 |
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regained interest
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for the record Doc, are there any major differences to the TF when doing this job ??
__________________
Pete Vickerstaff - Proud to drive an MG TF 160 in Trophy Yellow ![]() MG F/TF Central - your one stop shop for MGF/TF tips, tricks, faq's, how to's and links Soft Resin Badges for sale |
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Antwerp, B Car: MGF
Posts: 1,258
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Quality posting !!!
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#11 |
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MGF Istanbul Branch
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Istanbul Car: MGF
Posts: 2,776
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Top guide!
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: N/E London Car: Other Manufacturer
Posts: 3,163
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Well done a superb how to that will be used again and again I am sure.
My fave piccie has to be the one with the books. Rep comin' your way.... |
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#13 |
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Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Oxford Car: F mk2 VVC
Posts: 103
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thanks guys... wasn't expecting so much rep coming this way.... very pleased.
![]() hope it will help one or two in the future |
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#14 |
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is on the up!
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Sweet write-up
![]() I know what you mean about lining the gearbox up to get it back in. I ended up re-aligning my clutch when doing it as it wasn't quite square
__________________
Enclosed K&N, 52mm TB, Miltek, AP fast road clutch, WON Streetblaster 150i kit, Additional brake servo bracket, MS front 280mm brakes (Black Diamond drilled & grooved discs, Predator pads), 280mm rear brakes (Greenstuff pads), SS Braided brake hoses, TF solid subframe mounts, Polybushed, Lowering pins, Gaz adjustable shocks, MS bell crank, SEAT Leon front splitter, Alpine ICE, MKII center console, Colour coded interior
Has hydragas pump - will travel ![]() |
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#15 |
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Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Oxford Car: F mk2 VVC
Posts: 103
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#17 |
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Mudslinger extraordinaire
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ashington, Northumberland Car: MGTF 160, Focus ST2, KTM 640, Kangoo Van
Posts: 16,899
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Nice post.
Could you fill in a few blanks? Removing the drive shaft and lining the clutch up. Only asking cos I'll be doing this soon.
__________________
I like reality, I've been there a few times, but I wouldn't want to live there.
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#18 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Essex Car: MGF
Posts: 340
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I concur a supered thread. Brilliant well done
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#19 |
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Supporter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Devon Car: 1999 mgf 1.8i vvc Tahiti blue,1997 mgf 1.8i Tahiti blue, 1997 mgf 1.8i red, 1996 mgf 1.8i amaranth.
Posts: 8,796
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Brilliant. I just wish I had seen this before my three day epic journey into our mgf clutch.
I ended up after many and varied attempts to align everything by putting the clutch in fingertight, so as to allow movement of the plate. putting in bolts and pulling in evenly jostled gearbox and it slipped in easy. Then spanner on crank turn engine and tighten all clutch cover bolts through starter housing gap. Maybe not approved method but the last resort |
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#20 |
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Supporter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Devon Car: 1999 mgf 1.8i vvc Tahiti blue,1997 mgf 1.8i Tahiti blue, 1997 mgf 1.8i red, 1996 mgf 1.8i amaranth.
Posts: 8,796
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I also found the medim size ratchet below half inch is it five sixteenth or three eights fits the drain plug
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