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Old 24-10-2008, 20:09   #1
Brains
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HOW TO....CVT gearbox oil change

So after many months of putting this job to the side, I decided to get on the task. From reading the manual, it was a really easy job. Hardest part was actually sourcing the oil.

Here is a guide through, with pictures, for others who wish to attempt the job.

Please note that before the job is started, please drive the car for a while to get the oil really hot, it ensures that it is more fluid, and will drain fully from the system. When performing the job, leave the car in P.

1. First of all I set aside everything I needed for the operation, so that I knew I had everything for the task in hand.

The item list comprises of 5 bottles of ESSO EZL 799 CVT fluid (5 x 1 Litre, item code being XPT001002OF), a scissor jack, a pair of axle stands, a small flat head screw driver for the hose clips, a large bowl to catch the old oil, a torque wrench, a set of sockets and a standard wrench, a rag, tissues, latex gloves for your hands (the oil is corrosive to hands), and a funnel with a piece of hose pipe to give upright pouring into the gearbox.



2. Open the bonnet. Begin by using the small flat head screwdriver to pop open the hose clips attached to the hose on the TB to the airbox. These were a pain to get at, especially the one on the air box. But this is probably because it was put back like this when the Head Gasket was done.



3. Once all the clips have been released, 2 in total, one on the TB and one on the air filter housing, remove the rubber flexi pipe to allow easier access to the gearbox.



4. Remove the dipstick from the gearbox.



5. Clean the dipstick, and set it down in a clean place.



6. Jack up the passenger side near the front wheel.



7. Place an axle stand under the car next to the jack, and lower the jack again, so the passenger side is supported off the floor.



8. Jack up the driver side near the front wheel.



9. Place an axle stand under the car next to the jack, and lower the jack again, so the driver side is supported off the floor.



10. The car should now be raised off the floor, allowing more room to access underneath the car.



11. Place a drip pan underneath the gearbox, ensuring that the drain plug is located over the bowl, otherwise oil will go all over the floor. I used a washing up bowl, and old disused one I should add.



12. Using a standard wrench, with an 8mm allen key attachment loosen the drain plug underneath the gear box.



13. The bolt will be really stuck on, but once the bolt is cracked, it will come off with your fingers.



14. With the bolt removed, the fluid will drain straight out from the box, from the pumps and cooling pipes. Plenty of splashing will occur.



15. Wait until all the oil has drained from the box, signified with just small drips happening.



16. With the drain plug which has been removed, separate it from the washer. The drain plug is actually a magnet, and attracts all the swarf floating around inside the gear box. Clean all the swarf off, so that the plug is clean.



17. Clean up the washer, removing any oil left on it.



18. I used a piece of tissue to remove the rubbish off the plug and washer, as can be seen, it was pretty dirty.



19. Remove the oil pan from underneath the gearbox, to get it out the way. Notice how my oil actually appears black, when infact it should be red/pink in colour.



20. With the washer, there is no need to replace it. Once cleaned, heat the washer up with a lighter, until it is annealed, and a slight tarnish appears. This ensures the washer is as new. Place the washer back on the plug, and hand screw it back into the drain plug hole. Then using a torque wrench, tighten the bolt up to a torque of 30NM.



21. Jack up the car again on the driver's side, to give enough room to get the axle stand out, and then lower the car back down again.



22. Jack up the car again on the passenger's side, to give enough room to get the axle stand out, and then lower the car back down again. The car will now be on it's four wheels again.



23. As the dipstick tube is set at an angle, using a standard funnel doesn't allow direct pouring. To allow easy pouring of the oil, I got a piece of hose pipe, about a foot in length. One end fits on to the funnel end. The other end is in fact the same diameter as the dipstick tube. To solve this, cut a slit of about an inch, so that the tube can be curled slightly so it fits into the dipstick.



24. Carefully pour the oil into the funnel at a steady rate. Do not allow the oil to pool up inside the funnel, as the downflow will force up air causing it to bubble everywhere. The total amount I put for the first fill was 4 litres. This displayed as minimum on the dipstick.



25. I used 4 bottles for the first initial fill. All empty ones can be kept to pour the old oil back into for safe disposal at a local rubbish dump which accepts oils.




Continued next post....
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Old 24-10-2008, 20:09   #2
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Continued....

26. Reattach the rubber tubing and fasten the hose clips back on.



27. Replace the dipstick back into the gearbox.

28. Start the engine up. Allow the engine to work up to temperature. If you did the job soon after turning the engine off, the time taken for it to warm up again will be around 10-15 minutes.

29. Once the engine is registering as half way on the temperature gauge, cycle through the gears slowly from park to lower. Ensure you have applied both brakes so that no movement happens. Repeat this 3 times. Once you have cycled through 3 times, the oil will be sufficiently spread around the box and cooling pipes. Leave the engining idle, and place the selector in neutral.

30. Check the dipstick on the gearbox for the level of oil within. It will need to be withdrawn and wiped a few times to get a clean reading from the actual gearbox rather that collecting residue oil on the dipstick tube.

31. At idle, the gearbox oil should be between the upper and lower marks on the dipstick. I had to add 250ml extra into the box to bring the level up to the correct mark.

32. With the gearbox oil fully reinstalled, test the car out for driving. Test all drive gears. The driving should hopefully be smoother, and selecting gears should be less jolty with little jerking at all.

33. Tidy up your work area, dispose of all rubbish according to regulations. Dispose of oil at a waste oil facility.

34. Over the week following, check the oil level to ensure it hasn't dropped. If it has check the bolt underneath the gearbox for any signs of seepage. If there is oil around it, tighten the bolt a fraction more. If it needs topping up, add enough to bring it to the correct level.

There you go, a CVT oil change, done by a novice, but easy to be done. No need for expensive garages either.

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Old 24-10-2008, 20:15   #3
denny james
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Great guide, great details, great pics but.......wash your car!
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Old 24-10-2008, 20:18   #4
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Lol, thanks for the feedback. I know my car is dirty. I was wondering who would point it out first. I had taken it for a bit of fun driving along the country roads where I live.
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Old 24-10-2008, 20:20   #5
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I used to live in West Sussex years ago so I know that area, plenty of country roads, couldn't resist. Great guide though, should help a few people.
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Old 24-10-2008, 20:21   #6
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Cool, well as there are no guides freely available, it should help others. Where abouts did you used to live in this wonderful county.
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Old 24-10-2008, 20:23   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brains View Post
Where abouts did you used to live in this wonderful county.
Ashington, Upper Beeding, Lancing and Tangmere. Not all at once though!
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Old 24-10-2008, 20:26   #8
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Cool. I drive past Ashington quite a bit, as I do with Upper Beeding, and occasionally Lancing, and also Tangmere, had to drive past here to go to Chichester to get the oil...40 miles from my house lol.
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Old 24-10-2008, 20:30   #9
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I grew up in Ashington (0-8 years) and Upper Beeding (8-20 years). Surprised you could not get the oil more local than Chichester, did you go to the Rover garage there, is it still there?
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Old 24-10-2008, 20:34   #10
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I called up Five Oaks Audi, which has the old MG Rover dealership still there. They also repair and service MG Rovers too. However they don't carry any spares there. They moved their spares division to Chichester to the Aston Martin/Jaguar dealership which also serves as an XPart centre. So yes the nearest place I could find was there.
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Old 24-10-2008, 20:37   #11
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Ahh, I think that is where the Rover garage used to be, the one on Terminus Road? Anyway, enough reminiscing, not relevant to cars. Easy drive to Chi from Horsham anyway.
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Old 24-10-2008, 20:39   #12
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My Rover infact came from Chichester. A dealership called Rowes Rover located at The Hornet, Chichester sold mine. Terminus Road is where I went though. Indeed enough reminiscing.

Edit, just checked, I think I purchased the oil from the old dealership who sold my car. That would be why lots of people came out to look at my car.

Last edited by Brains; 24-10-2008 at 20:41. Reason: Extra info.
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Old 24-10-2008, 20:43   #13
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I remember Rowes Rover. Hope your car was clean when they all looked at it?
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Old 24-10-2008, 20:44   #14
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It was clean. Got it dirty this morning, off roading sort of.
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Old 24-10-2008, 21:10   #15
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Superb guide, excellent.
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Old 24-10-2008, 21:28   #16
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Many thanks.
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Old 25-10-2008, 12:04   #17
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Just need to sort out my revs now, as they stick at 2k now rather than 1.1k. Must have knocked a cable.
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Old 01-11-2008, 11:19   #18
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Great how-to. Well done.

How much was the Esso EZL799 from X-part? Didn't you say earlier that you were going to order it from Ford or was that someone else?
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Old 02-11-2008, 08:32   #19
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I live in Worthing. And go to college in chichester 3 times a week - the automotive technology centre on Terminus Road. Terminus Road is the one with all the dealerships, so quite probably thats where the Rover dealer used to be.
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Old 05-11-2008, 21:16   #20
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Sorry about late reply. Computer crashed, XP corrupt, install other OS, configure the system. I'm here now anyway. Per litre from XPart dealer it was around 8 I think. I got the oil from Ford first time round, but it was totally incorrect, so I searched around for the correct oil, and had to get it from my old MG Rover dealer, who is now a Jag/Aston dealer with XPart part and repair facilities.
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