Rear bumper removal. - MG-Rover.org Forums

CJJ · 27-02-2009, 20:13

As it was fairly nice today (wind below 60 knots and no sleet) I decided to crack on with prepping for the removal of the engine/gearbox/subframe.

This give me the opportunity to do a how to for removing the rear bumper so that I can have a matching pair of bumper removal how to's.

The first thing I did was to get the car off the ground to make access a bit easier (not necessary for bumper removal).

There are a total of 9 screws, bolts and nuts holding the bumper on.

There are 2 cross headed screws on the rear of each wheel arch. One is right at the bottom, holding the plastic liner

And one towards the top of the bumper wheel arch section.

It is in a recess out of view and took me a while to realise they were there.

It is easily removed with a screwdriver.

Once these screws are out, the sides of the bumper are free to move.

Next you should disconnect the 2 electrical connectors that go through the rear of the boot to the number plate lights. You can push the grommets through the holes with a screwdriver.

Next, remove the 2 Torx bolts (T-50), one above each exhaust finsher.

I found it easier to remove the exhaust finishers as I have the superior quad setup. If you have the inferior single finishers then you might not have to.

This just leaves the 3 x 13mm nuts inside the boot.

There is one each side, under the rear light clusters.

And one central one under the boot lock.

The middle one is recessed and a pain to get to with a spanner. Best bet is a deep socket and a ratchet with an extension.

Once the last nut is removed it is just a case of sliding the bumber rearwards. You might want to put a blanket on the ground in case you drop it. This should stop it getting scratched.

Congrats, you are now minus a bumper.

gotenks1321 · 27-02-2009, 20:15

First class as ever CJJ and perfect timing as I plan to remove mine this weekend to fit the mesh

CJJ · 27-02-2009, 20:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotenks1321

First class as ever CJJ and perfect timing as I plan to remove mine this weekend to fit the mesh

That was my spidey senses telling me that there was someone out there in need. Hope it helps.

stephen1473 · 27-02-2009, 20:43

Looking at your second photo CJ, I see the kids have been setting off fireworks & pinching your number plate letters again!

CJJ · 27-02-2009, 20:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by stephen1473

Looking at your second photo CJ, I see the kids have been setting off fireworks & pinching your number plate letters again!

They are the arrows off my world domination map.

stephen1473 · 27-02-2009, 20:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJJ

They are the arrows off my world domination map.

Ah yes, left over from Valantines day?

MoonManMike · 27-02-2009, 21:16

While the bumper is off, always worth taking the crush boxes off and checking for rust on the connecting edge (and treating if necessary). Apply waxoyl before repositioning

Hopefully, an 04 should be ok though!

FrKevin · 27-02-2009, 21:22

Why are you taking the engine, box and frame out of a clean recent car?

CJJ · 27-02-2009, 21:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by moonmanmike

While the bumper is off, always worth taking the crush boxes off and checking for rust on the connecting edge (and treating if necessary). Apply waxoyl before repositioning

Hopefully, an 04 should be ok though!

Good tip. I will be doing the lot when the subframe and heatshields are out.

CJJ · 27-02-2009, 21:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrKevin

Why are you taking the engine, box and frame out of a clean recent car?

Just bored really. It's so that I can makeloads of how to's

Seriously though, lots of jobs to do, such as timing bels, head gasket, clutch, modified clutch arm. I am also going to modify the bulkhead to give more room in the engine bay between the engine and seats.

Petevick · 27-02-2009, 21:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJJ

...... I am also going to modify the bulkhead to give more room in the engine bay between the engine and seats.

wont the fuel tank have something to say about that ????

CJJ · 27-02-2009, 21:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Petevick

wont the fuel tank have something to say about that ????

Still working on that http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthrea...ight=fuel+tank

MoonManMike · 27-02-2009, 22:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotenks1321

First class as ever CJJ and perfect timing as I plan to remove mine this weekend to fit the mesh

The F has ordinary bolts above the exhaust tips, rather than torx bolts 'a la' TF. These are often a problem with older cars as they rust and 'weld' themselves to the crush boxes. I had this problem without realising at first what it actually was. I eventually sheered the bolts off by forcing them round. They took the lugs off the crush boxes and it did distort the bumper slightly whilst doing it, but it sprung back to shape after a further turn. Some people try and smother the bolts with penentrating oil, with some success. It's worth trying this first if you have a problem as it might save the crush boxes (they were about £40 per pair to replace, from memory).

If you do eventually have to sheer the bolts off, you'll need to remove them afterwards with a hacksaw or angle grinder. If you use an angle grinder, be careful of hot filings becoming embedded in the bumper! (an old damp towel or cloth coul be used for protection)

Good luck Dan, hope the job goes smoothly

sash · 27-02-2009, 22:17

great job as always Clive

m0g · 27-02-2009, 22:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJJ

Hey, I used to have that old timex watch, is probably still kicking around somewhere.

Chris

CJJ · 27-02-2009, 22:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by m0g

Hey, I used to have that old timex watch, is probably still kicking around somewhere.

Chris

Spotter. It's my work watch. All plastic means no electric shockery.

CJJ · 28-02-2009, 21:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by moonmanmike

The F has ordinary bolts above the exhaust tips, rather than torx bolts 'a la' TF. These are often a problem with older cars as they rust and 'weld' themselves to the crush boxes. I had this problem without realising at first what it actually was. I eventually sheered the bolts off by forcing them round. They took the lugs off the crush boxes and it did distort the bumper slightly whilst doing it, but it sprung back to shape after a further turn. Some people try and smother the bolts with penentrating oil, with some success. It's worth trying this first if you have a problem as it might save the crush boxes (they were about £40 per pair to replace, from memory).

If you do eventually have to sheer the bolts off, you'll need to remove them afterwards with a hacksaw or angle grinder. If you use an angle grinder, be careful of hot filings becoming embedded in the bumper! (an old damp towel or cloth coul be used for protection)

Good luck Dan, hope the job goes smoothly

Just read another post on this and they ended up shearing the bolts too. Good old F's

Iain160Trophy · 28-02-2009, 22:39

Fantastic guide which is going in my bookmarks, I have rust appearing behind my bumper. Will use this when i come to fixing it Cheers!

Iain160Trophy · 28-02-2009, 22:45

Oy! CJJ, Im sure I spotted your car at the metro center last week!!!

do you park in the debenhams carpark sometimes?!

yip was deffo you, blue 160 TF.

jonathanharding · 01-03-2009, 05:55

Great how to...

Er - how did you get the car up both front and rear ramps?

27-02-2009, 20:13	#1
CJJ Mudslinger extraordinaire Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Ashington, Northumberland Car: MGTF 160, Focus ST2, KTM 640, Kangoo Van Posts: 16,899	Rear bumper removal. As it was fairly nice today (wind below 60 knots and no sleet) I decided to crack on with prepping for the removal of the engine/gearbox/subframe. This give me the opportunity to do a how to for removing the rear bumper so that I can have a matching pair of bumper removal how to's. The first thing I did was to get the car off the ground to make access a bit easier (not necessary for bumper removal). There are a total of 9 screws, bolts and nuts holding the bumper on. There are 2 cross headed screws on the rear of each wheel arch. One is right at the bottom, holding the plastic liner And one towards the top of the bumper wheel arch section. It is in a recess out of view and took me a while to realise they were there. It is easily removed with a screwdriver. Once these screws are out, the sides of the bumper are free to move. Next you should disconnect the 2 electrical connectors that go through the rear of the boot to the number plate lights. You can push the grommets through the holes with a screwdriver. Next, remove the 2 Torx bolts (T-50), one above each exhaust finsher. I found it easier to remove the exhaust finishers as I have the superior quad setup. If you have the inferior single finishers then you might not have to. This just leaves the 3 x 13mm nuts inside the boot. There is one each side, under the rear light clusters. And one central one under the boot lock. The middle one is recessed and a pain to get to with a spanner. Best bet is a deep socket and a ratchet with an extension. Once the last nut is removed it is just a case of sliding the bumber rearwards. You might want to put a blanket on the ground in case you drop it. This should stop it getting scratched. Congrats, you are now minus a bumper. __________________ *I like reality, I've been there a few times, but I wouldn't want to live there.* Last edited by CJJ; 02-03-2009 at 17:00. Reason: Added Torx bolt size

27-02-2009, 20:43	#4
stephen1473 Supporter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Alnwick,Northumberland Car: MGF,75th Anniversary VVC Posts: 258	Looking at your second photo CJ, I see the kids have been setting off fireworks & pinching your number plate letters again! __________________

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