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Old 28-03-2009, 20:15   #1
Stressedbeaky
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Rover 45 TD will not start

Hi,

Hope someone can help on this….

I’ve got a Rover 45 turbo diesel (2000 year) that’s refusing to start…

The problem began when I was driving home – I had driven about 200 yards when I pulled out from behind some parked cars and the engine stalled. Coasted to a stop, I re-started it (very rough) but it cut-out again…..hasn’t started since.

The nice AA man came and checked fuel pressure at injectors (=OK), bled any air from fuel system (=OK), checked connectors (=OK) and all fuses/relays (=OK)…but couldn’t find problem, so had to be towed home.

Mobile mechanic came out next day and did similar checks and concluded it was probably the crankshaft sensor – which he replaced, but it still wouldn’t start…

Diagnostic man traced a fault to the fuel injection pump (solenoid valve?-not sure) and No.1 cylinder injector sensor. He thought the car should still run if it was the injector sensor, so I guess fuel injection pump is the prime suspect…££££!!!!

What concerns me though is that the central locking has gone wobbly at the same time (press fob key to lock and its locks ok, but immediately ‘bounces’ open again(all doors are shut)). Also, the rear screen heater has stopped working.
I thought this might be result of AA man getting a bit over-zealous with the fuses/relay checking but I’ve re-checked them and they all seem fine…

I don’t was to spend big on a fuel injection pump until I’m sure its not something else (ecu?)

Any help / advice would be appreciated!

Thanks.
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Old 28-03-2009, 20:20   #2
Chrisund123
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If you're having other electrical problems, check all the engine bay earths - they tend to corrode, and this can give rise to all sorts of wierd and wonderful problems. Worth a shot before you start replacing the expensive stuff!
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Old 28-03-2009, 20:32   #3
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if its the L series 2.0 turbo diesel same as a 220 SDI i have a pump sitting here...

if there is compression and fuel the chances are its something to do with the fuel timing...
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Old 28-03-2009, 21:17   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 220sdi_Turbo View Post
if its the L series 2.0 turbo diesel same as a 220 SDI i have a pump sitting here...

if there is compression and fuel the chances are its something to do with the fuel timing...
different pump mate
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Old 28-03-2009, 21:22   #5
Stressedbeaky
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Thanks - The earths looked O.K. -but I'll re-check the earths tommorrow.

Is it worth disconnecting battery (leave a few hours disconnected) to see if that re-sets anything (I'm wondering if the central lockings got confused somehow) - problem is the immobiliser - can't find the cars handbook/ codes...do I need the immobilier code or will key fob re-set it.

Also, car fires when spraying easy-start into air intake, but stalls as soon as stop spraying so its definately fuel related.


"if its the L series 2.0 turbo diesel same as a 220 SDI i have a pump sitting here..."

Thanks -but mines a Rover 45 (2000 year) - which is when they introduced the higher pressure VP30 pump - thanks anyway!
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Old 29-03-2009, 12:01   #6
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how much fuel comes out if you undo the injector unions and crank the engine? it should spurt everywhere. If it doesn't, then it looks bad for the pump.
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Old 29-03-2009, 18:07   #7
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spurts everywhere - reaches outside of engine bay...
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Old 29-03-2009, 19:29   #8
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well thats a pretty good sign! any chance the pump belt or cambelt could have jumped a tooth maybe?
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Old 29-03-2009, 19:35   #9
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Door locks bouncing will probably be one of the door switches.
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Old 30-03-2009, 11:50   #10
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I had a problem with my fuel pump timing solenoid with my car last year (2.0L TD). Only had the car 3 months, garage told me I used some bad fuel and wouldn't do anything.

After searching on here and speaking to a local pump mechanic, found out you can change the solenoid without having to change the pump. In the end, the solenoid cost £50 and I think another £50 or £75 for a mechanic to fit it. I believe it was a tricky job but he managed to do it without even taking the pump out. And while he was at it the connection on number 1 injector totally fell apart and he fixed that as well. Car went very much better after both jobs done.

That said, I didn't have any real problems with the engine even with the pump fault. If i recall correctly there's another solenoid in the pump thats more like an on/off one??? Worth checking it out before getting a new pump.
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Old 30-03-2009, 11:53   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nodrogs View Post
I had a problem with my fuel pump timing solenoid with my car last year (2.0L TD). Only had the car 3 months, garage told me I used some bad fuel and wouldn't do anything.

After searching on here and speaking to a local pump mechanic, found out you can change the solenoid without having to change the pump. In the end, the solenoid cost £50 and I think another £50 or £75 for a mechanic to fit it. I believe it was a tricky job but he managed to do it without even taking the pump out. And while he was at it the connection on number 1 injector totally fell apart and he fixed that as well. Car went very much better after both jobs done.

That said, I didn't have any real problems with the engine even with the pump fault. If i recall correctly there's another solenoid in the pump thats more like an on/off one??? Worth checking it out before getting a new pump.

You don't know where I can get the parts do you? I have a pump or too here that would make some rover-members very happy if we could put some life back in them. (same failure).

Disassembling pumps is tricky, but i'm getting the hang of it, would be nice if we could get a decent solution to tractor syndrome in check, for not too bad a cost!
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Old 30-03-2009, 13:20   #12
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Yes, I would like to be able to change my advance solenoid too without taking the pump off as I believe mine is not 100%.
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Old 30-03-2009, 14:09   #13
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Yes, I would like to be able to change my advance solenoid too without taking the pump off as I believe mine is not 100%.
Time to get out Dakta's workshop!

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Old 30-03-2009, 15:38   #14
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I'd like to have 1 too!!
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Old 30-03-2009, 17:53   #15
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I got mine locally (in Northern Ireland) from Tommy Wright, tel 028 2563 9400. I'm sure if you check around you may be able to get someone closer with the part. But Tommy does know his stuff.

Replacing the part is apparently easy enough, its just getting access to the solenoid is the problem. Basically its as simple as undo the two screws, cut the wires, and solder the new wires on and fit the new solenoid! My mechanic said he had to work from above and below and cleared away some of the surrounding pipework to get in at it. Just be sure your working at the right one, and that it is that solenoid thats faulty!

The timing solenoid is part 12. The most awkward one!


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Old 30-03-2009, 18:09   #16
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If it's a case of cutting wires, then I have a solenoid if someone wants to attempt a repair. I considered it fubarred because I cut the wires to make diassembling it easier (was more interested in the plunger mech at the time).

Anyone got a duff pump that wants to play guniea pig in cost effective repair?
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Old 31-03-2009, 12:48   #17
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Old 31-03-2009, 13:23   #18
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d'ya feel up to soldering?

shame you arn't in uk, coulda sent me the pump and id have had a play.
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Old 31-03-2009, 13:28   #19
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well where in UK do you live? I can drive by to do it together..
do you have a spare solenoid then ?
I could fix it myself if needed.

Thanks
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Old 31-03-2009, 13:44   #20
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wakefield - few miles from leeds, so quite north!
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