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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: N/E London Car: Other Manufacturer
Posts: 3,163
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A pillar tweeter builds for a MY2000F/TF how to
As a follow up to my “glove box sub box” how to I thought I would show how I built the latest addition to my TF, some A pillar tweeter (APT’s) builds.
For those of you that haven’t a clue as to what I am on about I will try to explain, the tweeters in a standard MY200F/TF are positioned reasonably well, but there’s always room for improvement. By moving the tweeters up into the A pillars it increases the sound stage (stereo effects) thus making the listening experience more enjoyable and accurate. Before you start you will need:- Supplies Fibreglass resin + catalyst Cheap paint brushes Speaker cloth Contact adhesive MDF Glass paper Material to cover builds, I used Vinyl. Specialist Tools Hot glue gun Hole saw Scalpel Dremmel Initially First you will need to aim the tweeters. This is usually done by placing some blue tack on the rear of the tweeters and sticking them to the A pillar trims and moving them around until a satisfactory sound pleasing to YOUR ears is achieved. The aiming of the tweeters should not be rushed into, you should listen to some music that you are familiar with so that you can get the sound spot on, this can take many hours to get just right, do not rush it. Once this has been achieved mark the height/placement on the A pillar trims with some Tipex or such like. The tweeters should look something like this:- ![]() Making a start Next you will need to remove the APT‘s, first fold the hood back and make a start by removing the two screws that hold the sun visors on and remove them and then the sun visors:- ![]() Next up remove the metal clips that hold the soft top to the windscreen, these are held in place by two Torx screws (T27S), unscrew these and remove the clips:- ![]() Now place you fingers, windscreen side, under the top trim above the mirror, pull down sharply to remove. Repeat this with the A pillar trims on either side, work from the top down on these. The build begins By now you will have an idea of where the tweeters sound best and you will need to make a hole to help the fixing of the tweeter cup and the wire. ![]() Now you need to make some tweeter cups, I used a pillar drill and hole saws but if you are careful a jigsaw could be used, this is what the cups for my tweeters looked like:- ![]() ![]() These now need to be hot glued to the APT’s as close to the position that you found best for your ears, don’t worry if they are not spot on at this stage as you will be able to adjust them later:- ![]() ![]() Refit the APT’s to the car and aim the speakers once again using the tip of the glue gun to melt the hot glue and also add some more when your ideal position is reached (this part can take some time). When you are satisfied with the position carefully take the APT’s off and make some legs for the cups to add some strength:- ![]() ![]() Once the cups are in the correct position try them out again, you can never do this enough times! Now take the APT’s off again and check that they are a mirror image of each other, if they are you are now ready for…. The messy stages. Start by giving the tweeter cup side of the APT’s a rub down with some coarse sandpaper, 60 grit is what I used, to give a key for the resin, also turn the APT‘s over and key the edge of the rear of the APT‘s . Once you have done this you will need to attach the speaker cloth to the APT’s. Turn the APT’s over and Working a small area at a time run a small amount of hot glue along one of the keyed edges, as you attach the speaker cloth press down firmly on the cloth to make sure that it sticks well to the APT’s, also try to squash the glue line down as you do not want to add unnecessary bulk to the rear of the APT’s. When you have attached the cloth along one complete edge it now gets a little harder as you will now have to do the other side and this needs stretching as you are doing so, 8 pairs of arms is handy here! Alternatively a partner or friend will do. Now trim the excess material off leaving an overlap of around 10mm:- ![]() When you have finished they should look like this:- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Try to keep the material at the top end of the APT’s a tight as possible:- ![]() You will need to poke the material through the tweeter cup to achieve a smooth and flowing shape to the builds, to do this I used a measuring spoon from the kitchen to push the material whilst hot gluing the rear, when doing this some talcum powder on the rear of the spoon will help to stop it from sticking as will rotating the spoon slightly too:- ![]() Note hot glue:- ![]() ![]() Cont in part 2...... |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: N/E London Car: Other Manufacturer
Posts: 3,163
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A pillar tweeter builds for a MY2000F/TF how to Part 2
Ready for the resin.
Mix up your resin (I used around 100ml per coat) according to the instructions (usually 2ml catalyst to 100ml resin) and brush onto the builds, going right up to the edge but not over it, remember you do not want to add bulk to the rears as this could impede re-fitting, brush resin around the tweeter ring and over lap this by a few mm, do not cover the whole of the hole as it can make things a little harder later. Use the resin sparingly and do not allow the resin to run and drip around the edges, it will make the job much harder come the preparation for the final finish. ![]() ![]() Repeat this until 3-4 layers have been achieved, by now the APT’s should be pretty tough. You will now need to cut the material from around the tweeter ring and tidy it up. I used a Dremmel:- ![]() ![]() Once this has been done give the APT’s another rub down with some 60 grit to give a key for the contact adhesive, heres a pic of a before and after being attacked with glass paper:- ![]() ![]() The final assault Its now time to attach the finish, brush contact adhesive onto both the APT’s and the vinyl and wait to dry. Now take the vinyl and cover the APT’s with it, simples…… Well it would be if it wasn’t the most frustrating job in the world!!! I failed on my first attempt and had to start again and to be honest I cannot really describe why it went better the second time, perhaps it was just luck, even so I am still not 100% happy as there are a few more wrinkles than I would have like but they are pretty much hidden from view and I have received quite a few pos comments now, besides when you are immersed in the quality sound that is now emanating from your ICE you will soon forget about a few wrinkles…. A few tips I would like to pass on is to pull the vinyl hard and only towards the rear edge, oh and you really will need two people for this part of the job. When finished trim the excess material from the rear of the APT’s and stand back and admire. ![]() ![]() ![]() Re-fit the APT’s in the opposite way to removal and then sit back and enjoy the realms of your hard work. Any problems please ask away, I will do my best to help. David Update Please see finished pics at post number 18 Last edited by happychappy#1; 17-04-2009 at 11:31. |
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#3 |
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regained interest
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blimey, much as ICE goes over my head, that is some serious clever and pro workmanship there David
. I'll add to my ICE web site section later
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Pete Vickerstaff - Proud to drive an MG TF 160 in Trophy Yellow ![]() MG F/TF Central - your one stop shop for MGF/TF tips, tricks, faq's, how to's and links Soft Resin Badges for sale |
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#4 | |
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Supporter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Worcestershire Car: 2003 MG TF 160 & 2000 Rover 45 2.0 TD
Posts: 492
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Quote:
Well done mate, what a great how-to! The standard of workmanship looks better than OEM. Does it make much difference to the overall sound? |
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: N/E London Car: Other Manufacturer
Posts: 3,163
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That would be an honour Sir.
It make a massive difference, its as if someone has suddenly jumped onto your bonnet to sing especially for you. |
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#6 |
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Genetically Different!!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Darkest Wiltshire Car: Project F2000 coming soon....
Posts: 3,305
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That is a seriously good job mate - why are you not doing this stuff for a living??? You'd clean up, seriously!
See you decided to go with the cloth/resin combo to get the shape right.....good choice - that's what i was suggesting when you first asked me in the other thread, and its paid off really well....looks OE good, and no lumps or lines ![]() Impressive - have some rep
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Out with the old....In with the new. Project 2000 coming soon Follow my progress here: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthrea...t=292529Bucket MG/Rover models bucket seat fitting 'How To' Here: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthrea...08#post3116708
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#7 |
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Noone ever reads this bit
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Orstralia mate! Car: 98 MGF 1.8i
Posts: 1,735
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Seriously good bit of engineering there Happy. You've given me some good ideas for the MIG
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1998 MGF 1.8i - Solar Red ![]() Stainless roll hoops & nipples, alloy knobage, 52mm alloy throttle body, lowered to 300mm, Viper Induction, Toyo R1R's, MS Slick Shift, shift light, TT Mk4, stainless decat. Member of MG Car Club of Queensland http://www.artxdesign.com.au/hillclimb.gif |
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#8 |
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is on the up!
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Looks bloody awesome Dave
I was amazed with your glovebox sub but this just goes one better If this doesn't deserve rep then I don't know what does...Now the question everyone wants to ask, how much for a set
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Enclosed K&N, 52mm TB, Miltek, AP fast road clutch, WON Streetblaster 150i kit, Additional brake servo bracket, MS front 280mm brakes (Black Diamond drilled & grooved discs, Predator pads), 280mm rear brakes (Greenstuff pads), SS Braided brake hoses, TF solid subframe mounts, Polybushed, Lowering pins, Gaz adjustable shocks, MS bell crank, SEAT Leon front splitter, Alpine ICE, MKII center console, Colour coded interior
Has hydragas pump - will travel ![]() |
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: N/E London Car: Other Manufacturer
Posts: 3,163
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Thanks for the comments Chaps, most appreciated.
![]() Dan if you have to ask you cant afford. ![]() ![]() They only cost about £40 for the materials, plus a pint of blood, a bucket of sweat oh and a swear box filled up to overflowing..... ![]() Seriously if anyone is interested in making their own I am more than willing to give advise. David |
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#10 |
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Moderator
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Great thread, we could do with more threads like this
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Proud Member of the HD-HU-CGAF Club. North Leicester MG Club: www.northleicester-mg.org.uk |
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#11 |
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Always Beer in my Fridge
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Cheshire Car: MG F (Mk II) & Rover Streetwise
Posts: 2,174
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I am in awe! Nice one - looks OEM!!!!
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#12 |
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is trying...
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Pontypool, South Wales Car: TF 160
Posts: 5,644
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Oh wow how the hell did this thread manage to slip under my radar!
Respect to you David! You take on some pretty hefty challenges, well done indeed
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: South Yorkshire Car: MG TF 160
Posts: 334
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Awesome idea and execution as the others have said. I think you have a niche market product here for the (lazy) people such as myself who would never ever try this lol. That said i'm guessing there's some proper time goes into this even now you've done it before?
Oh and a public thanks for all the help and advice in PM's over my ICE
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#14 |
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regained interest
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David, if this is part 1, what is part 2, 3, 4.....going to be
__________________
Pete Vickerstaff - Proud to drive an MG TF 160 in Trophy Yellow ![]() MG F/TF Central - your one stop shop for MGF/TF tips, tricks, faq's, how to's and links Soft Resin Badges for sale |
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Coventry Car: MG TF (R.I.P.); Mitsubishi Colt Diesel
Posts: 785
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looks great... do you perhaps have a final picture of it in your car all set up?
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#16 | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: N/E London Car: Other Manufacturer
Posts: 3,163
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Quote:
And also, I really want the interior of your car..... ![]() Twas late and I initially made two separate threads, then realised that they would get lost and suddenly remembered that I could link them via a reply. ![]() ![]() Sometimes I guess that I just need my beauty sleep (stands back and awaits "pos" comments )Wonder if a Mod could remove the "part 1" bit from the heading? Quote:
![]() Thanks once again for all the pos comments and the rep left, much appreciated and dont forget I am always willing to give advice where I can David |
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#17 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sandhurst, Berkshire, South of Watford... Car: Mk1 Morello Plum "F", Cream Leather
Posts: 603
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Happy.. you HAVE To go to the Brighton Bunny meet.... have an urgent desire to see your work "in the flesh"
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#18 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: N/E London Car: Other Manufacturer
Posts: 3,163
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Finished pics
Better late than never here are a couple of finished pics:-
Close up of a tweeter. ![]() Drivers view, note the new MK1 door panels with no tweeter hole. ![]() And finally a view from the rear (ooh err!)
Last edited by happychappy#1; 17-04-2009 at 11:25. |
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#19 |
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regained interest
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who the frik is WonkyJon
__________________
Pete Vickerstaff - Proud to drive an MG TF 160 in Trophy Yellow ![]() MG F/TF Central - your one stop shop for MGF/TF tips, tricks, faq's, how to's and links Soft Resin Badges for sale |
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